1. Pull the scope and check ring alignment. There are tools to do this, but it can be done on the cheap by laying a piece of proper diameter rod or pipe in the mounts and using a feeler gauge to check for gaps.
2. Check the torque on the ring screws. About 20 in-lbs is all you need, more will compress/crush the scope body, leading to optical distortion.
3. Have the barrel and action checked for true.
4. Remove the action from the stock and check the mounting holes and screws. Re-install and re-torque the mounting screws. If the action wanders in the stock, you're whizzing into the wind with each shot.
5. Use a piece of duct tape (no joke, an old 'smith taught me this one) in the
bottom half of the rings as friction material. This, plus proper torque on the ring screws, keeps the scope from walking.
6. In addition to proper torque, consider some *blue* locktite. Remember to adjust your torque values for wet vs. dry torque. The scope ring maker can give you this data, and if they can't, get better rings from someone who can. Leupold rings have wet and dry values and their customer service folks have this info, from personal experience.
7. Sandbag the snot out of the rifle on a bench with the crosshairs or post on the 'X' of a target at 50 yards, with the bolt out of the rifle. Look down the bore at the target and compare alignment. This is poor-man's boresighting, but I find it more accurate sometimes than using a boresighter. Send 3 rounds downrange and let the rifle cool for 15-20 minutes. Repeat the above alignment check and see if anything has changed. If so, you may have a bad barrel (rare, but it happens).
8. To find a gunsmith, talk to folks around you, visit local ranges and see where other shooters go. Also, if any local Community or Vocational school has a gunsmithing program, get in touch with the dept. head or head instructor and talk to him or her.
Remington rifles are generally one of the most accurate out-of-box, even with poopy cheap scopes (if installed properly). Sub-MOA with a 700 is typical, MOA is typical for a newbie shooter (not saying you are, but it's an indication of what to expect, generally).
Also, have the trigger pull checked. I've had rifles that came with "product liability" trigger pulls of 8-14lbs. That's just too much and will induce poor shooting. I've plinked with a Sako in 30-06 and shot 1/2 MOA at 100 yds with a 3.5lb pull and plinked with a 700 set to 8lbs and barely shot 2MOA with the same ammo and scope. It makes a WORLD of difference.
Good luck!
Clark White said:
How do I tell if a scope is bad or if I have a problem with my rifle? I have a Remington 700 SPS .308 that cant hit the broad side of a barn. I bought it brand new, have taken good care of it, and can't see a bloody thing wrong with it. I had a Nikon scope on it and it got thrown out of my buddies truck at 80MPH when he was run into a ditch by a semi. That was shortly after I purchased it, so I do not really know how it shot before that. I have since put a real nice Bushnell on it and thought all my problems had been solved. Then today, I went shooting, having not touched the scope, and it was all over the place, off the paper and such. I have flown with the gun, but it was in a very nice steel case (could the baggage handlers have thrown it hard enough to screw up a second scope?). Could it be the rifle? I don't really have access to ANOTHER scope, so how can I figure this out? I KNOW it's not me, because I borrowed my buddies gun and was shooting the hair off a gnat's ********. What about gunsmiths, how do I find a good one I could trust?
Thanks!
Clark