Need your opinions on this 4runner please...

[98tcoma3rz]

Found a 4runner on craigslist that I'm interested in. Its a 97 limited with the rear diff locker. Has 200k miles. No rust on body. Rear bumper is rusted out which I think is pretty typical.
Owner sent me a couple pictures of underneath. Wanted to see what your opinions are. Too rusty? He's asking 3800. Thanks!

 

[toy_tek]

Let me preface my response with this: After growing up in NE Ohio and dealing with salt exposed vehicles for 20+ years - I'll never own another rustbelt car again.

So, I'd say it depends on what you're planning.

If it doesn't concern you much, or this is an interim vehicle for just a couple years, you could spend a few days wire-brushing all the rust areas in these pics and shoot some Rustoleum and probably have pretty good results. What you aren't seeing in these pics is the rear spring/shock buckets, the brake internals, the engine compartment, electrical, etc. This is where the salt really does damage that maybe isn't initially evident, but can and will present issues in the future.

If you are looking for a long-term truck then I would be inclined to continue the search for a rust-free vehicle. 3rd gens are so common there are bound to be better specimens. Perhaps consider a fly/drive scenario... in my opinion even a few hundred bucks for a plane ticket would be well worth it in the long run vs. battling rust. I know here in PHX there are a plethora of comparable mileage 3rd gens for sale in a similar price bracket. I'm sure you could find a rust-free truck in a market closer to you as well.

That said, I don't see anything in those pics that screams "impending major disaster".

 

[SnoViking]

Rust is what kills the 4Runners. I'll agree with 111db and suggest finding a truck without any "cancer". If your budget is +/- $4k, you shouldn't have any real issues finding a decent rust-free rigs around the country.

If you're on the east side of PA, there's a few decent trucks on CL right now:
http://reading.craigslist.org/cto/5598751022.html
http://reading.craigslist.org/cto/5614358775.html
http://reading.craigslist.org/cto/5594911530.html

I've been hunting for a 4Runner for a co-worker so I've been scouting out what I would buy if I was hunting for a new rig.

 

[98tcoma3rz]

Thanks guys for your input. I'v been searching for a while. They're hard to come by! I'm looking for one with the rear diff locker.

 

[SnowLizard]

don't get hung on the rear locker, if you can get a 2001 or 2002 it has vsc and v-trac... it'll apply the brake on that wheel if slipping... essentially adding a locker up front too as well as the rear.

now if your planning on some hard trails, yeah stick with the locker... or install better lockers "ARB" they engage faster and are more convenient. down side is price.

 

[98tcoma3rz]

I'm not sure how I feel about the all wheel drive 4runners. Same fuel mileage as the older rear wheel ones?

 

[mantree91]

I prefer the 1st and 2nd gen bodys as they had a tailgate instead of the lift gate but stay clear of the v6 in them as it had head isues that caused the gaskets to blow prematurely

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Dalko43]

Here's the thing on buying a vehicle for use in the Northeast.

You can buy a rust-free vehicle, which will likely cost more and will probably require travel to pick it up, and own it for a few years, but eventually rust will set in.

Or

You can buy a vehicle with rust, but one that has at least been maintained and cleaned, and do a little bit of repair work to clean up (as much as possible) and paint over the rust...the upside to this is that you'll likely find better deals and you don't have to worry and fret over your new purchase getting rust on it, since it already has it.

There is nothing wrong with either approach, but using either one you're eventually going to be dealing with rust. It's just a fact of life in the northeast. The best you can do is mitigate the rust by cleaning off the underside and periodically scraping off and painting over the rust. Basic care like that should allow you to extend the life of your vehicle by a bit.

From what I can see, the amount of rust on that vehicle isn't bad at all for a nearly 20yr old vehicle. I would certainly do a physical inspection to see how deep and extensive the rust is, but surface rust is to be expected on any vehicle being driven year-round in the northeast. I would go check out the vehicle in person or maybe bring it to a reputable mechanic before discounting it.

 

[MandAtaco]

don't get hung on the rear locker, if you can get a 2001 or 2002 it has vsc and v-trac... it'll apply the brake on that wheel if slipping... essentially adding a locker up front too as well as the rear.

now if your planning on some hard trails, yeah stick with the locker... or install better lockers "ARB" they engage faster and are more convenient. down side is price.

The 01 and 02's had more electronics on them. the brake booster is all computer driven and is expensive if it ever goes out. I "think" they were drive by wire too. The factory Toyota lockers are very reliable, I've had a few and never had any issues.

I'm not sure how I feel about the all wheel drive 4runners. Same fuel mileage as the older rear wheel ones?

Some 3rd gen's had an AWD option, but weren't full time all the time, it had to be turned on. At least on the 96-00. This 97 wouldn't be AWD.

I prefer the 1st and 2nd gen bodys as they had a tailgate instead of the lift gate but stay clear of the v6 in them as it had head isues that caused the gaskets to blow prematurely

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

The head gasket issues were on the early 3.0's not the 3.4L. The 3.4L's have proven themselves to be a super reliable engine!

 

[mantree91]

The 01 and 02's had more electronics on them. the brake booster is all computer driven and is expensive if it ever goes out. I "think" they were drive by wire too. The factory Toyota lockers are very reliable, I've had a few and never had any issues.


Some 3rd gen's had an AWD option, but weren't full time all the time, it had to be turned on. At least on the 96-00. This 97 wouldn't be AWD.


The head gasket issues were on the early 3.0's not the 3.4L. The 3.4L's have proven themselves to be a super reliable engine!

The 3rd Gen was when they got the 3.4 and lost the 22re but the 3.4 will swap in to the 3.0 body as they have the same bellhousing and engine mounts.

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[bkg]

I wouldn't buy it, personally. I now only buy vehicles in TX, Nm, AZ and near by. Typically cheaper and always rust free. Last two Tacoma's were Houston and Phoenix. Less rust than my 2010 that spent two years in IL.

 

[Arktikos]

The place to check for rust is the inner frame rails, around the bumper but especially where the rear suspension attaches near the muffler. Appears to have a lift, which lowers value in my opinion. Not a bad price though, if it checks out.