New Bike Advice Needed

[calicamper]

All great stuff. I really like the Marin offerings from what I have seen online. I hope to make it by a local shop sometime this week to check them out in person.

Nothing we ride locally is what I would consider super technical. I am worried that the 29" wheels are going to be very different from what I am used to but hopefully once used to them I can keep up with the boy.

I found the 29’s to be far superior and easier to ride at speed over the 27’s. Less effort etc.
the tires are more balloon like running lower psi 20-30psi and are super grippy. Softer smoother ride also. I don’t like full suspension I just feel way to disconnected from the ground on full suspension and still like to down hill single trail with good speed. The hard tail is just better feedback etc. lighter weight too.
I rode a bunch of brands. Ironically I liked the GT Zaskar not sold anymore and really liked it. Not a crazy expensive rig but I like it. Decent frame and gear but I’ve upgraded brakes and a few minor things. Funny enough in 87 the Zaskar was out of my price range when I was a kid and bought my other GT. Only took me 35 yrs to get one?.
The Marin bikes I liked, I just couldn’t find a frame that felt right. The treks were a little better. Specialized was my second choice but something about the Zaskar frame layout it was like getting on a bike made for me felt awesome.

 

[Hnoroian]

frame layout it was like getting on a bike made for me felt awesome.

I’ve heard this advice a bunch of times, and best I could ever give too. Find a few that you like and try them out if you can. If you can only source a few of them to try, compare geometry of the others that you can’t.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I’ve heard this advice a bunch of times, and best I could ever give too. Find a few that you like and try them out if you can. If you can only source a few of them to try, compare geometry of the others that you can’t.

+1

I snagged an older Trek just to goof off with last summer and as kid it was always well you are so tall so now you get a 26" bike and you picked the one you liked the color of that is the end of it.

I have low standards, mainly want to ride on bike trails, around campgrounds etc.

Well while my "new" one is still a 26" it is shaped a lot differently than the one I had in middle school and is so much more comfortable and easy to pedal.

I need to drag my ol' Murray out of the barn and see how they actually compare side by side lol.

 

[rruff]

I’ve heard this advice a bunch of times, and best I could ever give too. Find a few that you like and try them out if you can. If you can only source a few of them to try, compare geometry of the others that you can’t.

Actually that is harder than many suspect... and also unnecessary. I'm not saying they will all feel the same, but rather any judgements you make on that basis won't be accurate.

Position makes a massive difference, and this is not an inherent property of the bike, rather it's something you dial in yourself. Many measurements that you must get right to a mm or 2 to make a fair comparison, that are not easy to measure! Saddles, stems, and bars need to be swapped out and adjusted precisely. Tires too, and inflation adjusted. And did you pick the right size? Has the fork been properly set up and adjusted? No way are you going to commandeer a bikeshop employee for the whole day while you make the attempt to figure this out. Plus what is the point of test riding a MTB in the parking lot? Consequently I never test ride a bike before buying, and I've had lots of them in ~200k miles of riding.

 

[rcintx]

I picked up a new Giant Talon 1 yesterday. It’s not top of the line but it is a huge step up from what I had been riding. I absolutely understand why 29era became so popular. Awesome riding experience. I think it is going to suit me great for now and can always be upgraded later.
Thanks again for all the advice and comments.

 

[Trail Talk]

Congratulations on your choice! Helpful discussion as I’m in the same boat, tired of rebuilding and repairing my 2004 FS MTB and ready for a replacement. Prices of new are still stupid so looking at slightly used.

 

[rcintx]

Congratulations on your choice! Helpful discussion as I’m in the same boat, tired of rebuilding and repairing my 2004 FS MTB and ready for a replacement. Prices of new are still stupid so looking at slightly used.

Absolutely! I looked for used until I just gave up. My advice would be to hit the local bike shops, tell them what you are looking for and ride a few. The bike I went to look at is not the one that I came home with. It just didn't fit as well as the Giant. They also had a decent sale going on that helped.

I absolutely love riding this bike and have put several hundred miles on it already.

 

[Trail Talk]

Pulled the trigger on a private-sale used Norco full-suspension Revolver with carbon frame. Had previously looked at it in person but didn't like the price so walked away. Randomly checked the online ad to find the price had dropped to the point I felt was reasonable and now its mine. Coincidentally, looking through old receipts, I was surprised to realize it was within a few dollars of what I paid back in 2004 for my used Norco Team XC full-sus.

Ugh, came with tubeless tires but replaced with tubes once I cleaned the dried gunk out. Can't imagine dealing with that on a trail miles from nowhere. Other differences from my previous ride is a ginormously wide handlebar and dropper seat post. Have cut down the bar a bit and will try it out but have banged into trees on a few narrow trails. The dropper could be great once I learn to hit the lever in time. The 1x12 drivetrain is nice, still SRAM which I like, and less duties for my left thumb since it has inherited both the dropper and fork remote levers.

Speaking of which, a bit of silliness IMHO is the remote lockout on the front fork. This feature was a simple lever on top of the fork on my old bike, but now there is a cable and bar-mounted lever to move the same knob, still within easy reach, one position from open to lock. Not worth it, but to remove requires a "kit" of parts.

Another giggle came with the "modern" platform pedals. Talk about things coming full circle ;-) I like toe clips with non clip-in shoes for my XC hike-a-bike adventures so completely bypassed the clipless rage anyway.

Still on the learning curve...

 

[Mfitz]

Pulled the trigger on a private-sale used Norco full-suspension Revolver with carbon frame. Had previously looked at it in person but didn't like the price so walked away. Randomly checked the online ad to find the price had dropped to the point I felt was reasonable and now its mine. Coincidentally, looking through old receipts, I was surprised to realize it was within a few dollars of what I paid back in 2004 for my used Norco Team XC full-sus.

Ugh, came with tubeless tires but replaced with tubes once I cleaned the dried gunk out. Can't imagine dealing with that on a trail miles from nowhere. Other differences from my previous ride is a ginormously wide handlebar and dropper seat post. Have cut down the bar a bit and will try it out but have banged into trees on a few narrow trails. The dropper could be great once I learn to hit the lever in time. The 1x12 drivetrain is nice, still SRAM which I like, and less duties for my left thumb since it has inherited both the dropper and fork remote levers.

Speaking of which, a bit of silliness IMHO is the remote lockout on the front fork. This feature was a simple lever on top of the fork on my old bike, but now there is a cable and bar-mounted lever to move the same knob, still within easy reach, one position from open to lock. Not worth it, but to remove requires a "kit" of parts.

Another giggle came with the "modern" platform pedals. Talk about things coming full circle ;-) I like toe clips with non clip-in shoes for my XC hike-a-bike adventures so completely bypassed the clipless rage anyway.

Still on the learning curve.

The whole point of tubeless is to not have to deal with it on a trail miles from nowhere. Lower tire pressure possible with tubeless brings more grip and reduces the likelihood of pinch flats, reduced rolling resistance, small punctures seal on their own. Always carry a spare tube for cases where a sidewall has ripped open, but that is a danger no matter what you are running. Pretty easy to boot a tire and swap in a tube when tires are damaged beyond what sealant will fix. Squirt in some new sealant through the valve stem twice a year or when changing tires and be done with it.

 

[Trail Talk]

The whole point of tubeless is to not have to deal with it on a trail miles from nowhere. Lower tire pressure possible with tubeless brings more grip and reduces the likelihood of pinch flats, reduced rolling resistance, small punctures seal on their own. Always carry a spare tube for cases where a sidewall has ripped open, but that is a danger no matter what you are running. Pretty easy to boot a tire and swap in a tube when tires are damaged beyond what sealant will fix. Squirt in some new sealant through the valve stem twice a year or when changing tires and be done with it.

After spending a week researching, the only advantage I could confirm for tubeless was to run lower than manufacturers recommended tire pressures. I can see in some situations that would be great. But also many stories of punctures and leaks despite the sealant sloshing around inside. Still need to carry an emergency tube anyway, CO2 inflator because hand pump won’t cut it, tire plug kit and sealant kit. Sealant needs regular replacement because once the latex dries out its a ********** to clean off. Seems the bike industry has finally found a way to sell us the air in our tires on subscription ?

 

[rruff]

I don't see the point in tubeless for road bikes, but it's better for MTB... especially if you ride in a place with thorns or other things that puncture tires.

I pump mine with a floor pump. Never use CO2. Use a tire lever to get the tire bead up on the "shelf" of the rim, and a little hand pump will do the trick... but you are almost always setting up tubeless at "home" rather than out in the wild.

I haven't found the latex to be an issue. I don't ride mine that often, and if the tires start losing pressure I know it's time for more sealant. Every 6 months or so. Wipe out the residue, and dump some more in. I recently got a puncture in my front tire that apparently sealed immediately... no sealent flying around and no loss of air.

I like the longer wheelbase on newer bikes, but do not like the slack head angles. I'd rather have a longer frame with a steeper head angle. I don't understand the wide bars either. I cut mine down, and think I need to cut some more. Wide might make some sense for standing, but bar-ends are a better way to go. Maybe it's because everything seems to be downhill focused these days, but that isn't my priority.

 

[Mfitz]

I don't see the point in tubeless for road bikes, but it's better for MTB... especially if you ride in a place with thorns or other things that puncture tires.

I pump mine with a floor pump. Never use CO2. Use a tire lever to get the tire bead up on the "shelf" of the rim, and a little hand pump will do the trick... but you are almost always setting up tubeless at "home" rather than out in the wild.

I haven't found the latex to be an issue. I don't ride mine that often, and if the tires start losing pressure I know it's time for more sealant. Every 6 months or so. Wipe out the residue, and dump some more in. I recently got a puncture in my front tire that apparently sealed immediately... no sealent flying around and no loss of air.

I like the longer wheelbase on newer bikes, but do not like the slack head angles. I'd rather have a longer frame with a steeper head angle. I don't understand the wide bars either. I cut mine down, and think I need to cut some more. Wide might make some sense for standing, but bar-ends are a better way to go. Maybe it's because everything seems to be downhill focused these days, but that isn't my priority.

I agree with you on the tubeless point. I don't carry co2, have never had to try to reseat a bead on the trail- if it needs to be unseated to repair a tire or comes off accidentally with a massive puncture, I would just throw in a tube and be done with it until back in the shop. That has never happened to me, though, and sealant has fixed countless small punctures which would require a new tube each time if not running tubeless. No doubt tubeless is a hassle at times when seating certain tire/ wheel combinations but I have been running tubeless for years and have never wanted to switch back. I wear out tires before they have to be topped off more than once or twice, and I never take them off to clean out old sealant before adding more. Buy tubes or buy sealant, you are still paying to hold air. Almost every quality MTB tire and wheel sold today are tubeless compatible, so everybody can make their own choices and stick with what works for them.

Bars got ridiculously wide a while back, and even enduro pro riders were cutting them down below 800mm. Lots of amateur enduro bros still 'need 'em wide'! They are easy to cut, and I like them somewhere around 770-780 max. You can always cut them shorter, but it's really hard to add back width.

Geometry has changed dramatically in the last 5-7 years, and there were certainly some missteps along the way. Some bikes have geometry that just works, and some still don't. And what people want differs depending on what they ride and how they ride it. I have a short travel trail bike with a head tube angle and reach numbers that would have been insane for a bike like this 10 years ago, but the bike climbs technical trails as well as it descends. The changes going forward will be incremental, not revolutionary. Flat pedals or clipped in, really just a personal choice unless you are an XC racer.

 

[TwinStick]

I will be 60 this year. I was, and still am overweight. Just lost 50 lbs and am at 200 now. I had a 1994 GT Backwoods hardtail and a 1997 GT LTS 3. Both great bikes that I wish I kept. We have a pair of GT Transio 3 right now. Great bikes for blacktop.

Today, while we were out, my financial advisor said we should stop by the bike shop. Big mistake for my financial advisor...................2023 Specialized Status 160 S3 was ordered today. He said it would be delivered to the shop in 2 days.

Note: I fully understand that this will be more bike than I will ever need.......but that's the point. As my ability improves, I will not have to worry about the bike keeping up. I want long travel, to soak up any big hits and be able to hit a curb at speed if need be. I want to be able to set up the suspension on the softer side for riding with the wife and/or to stiffen it up when on real trails.

I never thought I would hear myself say this but.......IMHO, a decent hardtail starts at about $700-$1000. A good one is closer to $2000. I never, ever thought I would ever pay what bikes cost these days, that's for sure. But if you really get enjoyment from MTB riding, it is what it is. It's worth it to me and that's all that matters. If you work your whole life and want something & can afford it, then go for it, no permission needed. Lol

While we were in the Specialized bike shop, 2 old guys (lol, I'm 60) of 84 & 87 came in. One had his bike, in for work, he said he did 100 miles the day before on it !!! God bless them. I think I would need 10 years to be in good enough shape to ride 100 miles ! Lol

But, yes, unfortunately the bicycle industry has been hit with the same crazy unreasonable prices, just like the auto industry. To put that in perspective: the bike I ordered today was at the very bottom of their MTB lineup !!!! A bike, over $3k with taxes & shipping, is at the very bottom ?????
That's crazy to me but we are just average people that are retired. I don't agree with the price point but I do know what I want. And, in the long run, having what you want, to do what you do, will be rewarding every time you throw your leg over it.

Specialized Status 160

The Status 160 may be an all-new bike, but it’s really an all-new way of thinking about how to have the most fun possible on two wheels—even if that means they’re different sizes. A 29-inch wheel offers up maximum cornering traction and roll-over capability in front while a 27.5 inch wheel out...

rocknroadcyclery.com

 

[calicamper]

I don't see the point in tubeless for road bikes, but it's better for MTB... especially if you ride in a place with thorns or other things that puncture tires.

I pump mine with a floor pump. Never use CO2. Use a tire lever to get the tire bead up on the "shelf" of the rim, and a little hand pump will do the trick... but you are almost always setting up tubeless at "home" rather than out in the wild.

I haven't found the latex to be an issue. I don't ride mine that often, and if the tires start losing pressure I know it's time for more sealant. Every 6 months or so. Wipe out the residue, and dump some more in. I recently got a puncture in my front tire that apparently sealed immediately... no sealent flying around and no loss of air.

I like the longer wheelbase on newer bikes, but do not like the slack head angles. I'd rather have a longer frame with a steeper head angle. I don't understand the wide bars either. I cut mine down, and think I need to cut some more. Wide might make some sense for standing, but bar-ends are a better way to go. Maybe it's because everything seems to be downhill focused these days, but that isn't my priority.

Same!!! The kid at the shop thought I was mental when I told him to take 1 inch off each handle bar end. The wide ******** handle bar thing is nutz.

 

[rcintx]

I will be 60 this year. I was, and still am overweight. Just lost 50 lbs and am at 200 now. I had a 1994 GT Backwoods hardtail and a 1997 GT LTS 3. Both great bikes that I wish I kept. We have a pair of GT Transio 3 right now. Great bikes for blacktop.

Today, while we were out, my financial advisor said we should stop by the bike shop. Big mistake for my financial advisor...................2023 Specialized Status 160 S3 was ordered today. He said it would be delivered to the shop in 2 days.

Note: I fully understand that this will be more bike than I will ever need.......but that's the point. As my ability improves, I will not have to worry about the bike keeping up. I want long travel, to soak up any big hits and be able to hit a curb at speed if need be. I want to be able to set up the suspension on the softer side for riding with the wife and/or to stiffen it up when on real trails.

I never thought I would hear myself say this but.......IMHO, a decent hardtail starts at about $700-$1000. A good one is closer to $2000. I never, ever thought I would ever pay what bikes cost these days, that's for sure. But if you really get enjoyment from MTB riding, it is what it is. It's worth it to me and that's all that matters. If you work your whole life and want something & can afford it, then go for it, no permission needed. Lol

While we were in the Specialized bike shop, 2 old guys (lol, I'm 60) of 84 & 87 came in. One had his bike, in for work, he said he did 100 miles the day before on it !!! God bless them. I think I would need 10 years to be in good enough shape to ride 100 miles ! Lol

But, yes, unfortunately the bicycle industry has been hit with the same crazy unreasonable prices, just like the auto industry. To put that in perspective: the bike I ordered today was at the very bottom of their MTB lineup !!!! A bike, over $3k with taxes & shipping, is at the very bottom ?????
That's crazy to me but we are just average people that are retired. I don't agree with the price point but I do know what I want. And, in the long run, having what you want, to do what you do, will be rewarding every time you throw your leg over it.

Specialized Status 160

The Status 160 may be an all-new bike, but it’s really an all-new way of thinking about how to have the most fun possible on two wheels—even if that means they’re different sizes. A 29-inch wheel offers up maximum cornering traction and roll-over capability in front while a 27.5 inch wheel out...

rocknroadcyclery.com

I started my search thinking $1000 for a hardtail would the very top end of what I would spend. I quickly found myself justifying $2000, lol. In the end I did find something I really liked for just over 1k but you are definitely right, that is where things start.

I couldn't be happier with my purchase and now want a new roadbike for the days I can't get to the trails. I just really enjoy the time I spend riding and do think it is something I can do long after my running days are over. Congrats on the new bike! I hope you enjoy it immensely.