New fridge owner questions

Sorry if these are dumb questions. I bought a used Edgestar 80 QT fridge, and have a couple of questions. It was hard wired in, but I am going to be using it in the back of my wife's Suburban for now, so I need to install a 12v plug. I have one from Radio Shack that is rated for 7.5A, that should be fine correct? Also, I only have one battery in my wife's suburban right now. If I start it and run it for 10-15 min a day, is that going to be enough to keep it charged? I'm going on a 5 day hunting trip, so I plan to use it for that then. I'm going to bring a spare battery and jumpers with me, but figured I'd ask. Also, can I use any old 120v computer power cord that looks like it fits the 110v fitting on the fridge? I plan to plug it in the night before I leave so it's already cold when I load it up and go. Thanks and sorry for the dumb questions.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
Not enough info for a complete response. Depending on the year of your Sub, the factory alternator may only be 105 amp (even if the build sheet says you have the "heavy duty" electrical package) and won't put out much at idle, so running for 10-15 mins/day probably won't offset drain of the fridge. What kind of battery do you have and what condition is it in? Even with a fresh Grp 31, you are stretching the system's capabilities. Assuming your Sub is a gasser, if it does not have rear A/C, there should be a separate empty battery tray opposite the starting battery, behind the core support. A quick fix for the trip would be to install a second battery there and hardwire it to the other battery, preferably with a big switch to isolate it when necessary. If you do have rear A/C, that tray is already filled with A/C stuff. Before you leave, freeze a bunch of water bottles and load the bottom of the fridge to stabilize interior temps as the fridge is opened and closed, don't just depart for the trip with a bunch stuff that you hope will freeze on the road. Spare battery and jumpers are a good idea, but once that spare battery loses its charge, it will be difficult to recharge with jumpers at idle. I'd take a lithium-ion jumper pack (like a MicroGravity XP10) just to be sure I can start the truck when I have to. Most old computer cords should work for 110V, as long as the connectors match, but remember that newer computers don't draw much current so make sure wire gauge is adequate. The 7.5amp jack might be OK, but I don't know what the max draw is on your fridge. A common mistake with 12V outlets is to use too small a wire gauge when connecting them. Bigger is better, and use an inline fuse.

You are in So Cal, so it will be hot. I just returned from seven days in AZ with a 50L Indel B fridge on the back seat of my truck. Worked like a champ, but I have it wired to a pair of new Grp 34 AGMs with a 270amp alternator. I was driving the truck about two hours per day and that was enough to keep the batteries charged. The day I did not drive the truck, the fridge hit the low voltage cutout after about 38 hours, but the frozen water bottles kept things cool enough for the balance of that day. My guess is that you will have a hard time keeping stuff cold with your current setup. Might want to get a solar setup before you leave. Put insulating blankets over the fridge, even if you have it in a travel bag, and block the rear windows to keep sun off the fridge.
 
Not enough info for a complete response. Depending on the year of your Sub, the factory alternator may only be 105 amp (even if the build sheet says you have the "heavy duty" electrical package) and won't put out much at idle, so running for 10-15 mins/day probably won't offset drain of the fridge. What kind of battery do you have and what condition is it in? Even with a fresh Grp 31, you are stretching the system's capabilities. Assuming your Sub is a gasser, if it does not have rear A/C, there should be a separate empty battery tray opposite the starting battery, behind the core support. A quick fix for the trip would be to install a second battery there and hardwire it to the other battery, preferably with a big switch to isolate it when necessary. If you do have rear A/C, that tray is already filled with A/C stuff. Before you leave, freeze a bunch of water bottles and load the bottom of the fridge to stabilize interior temps as the fridge is opened and closed, don't just depart for the trip with a bunch stuff that you hope will freeze on the road. Spare battery and jumpers are a good idea, but once that spare battery loses its charge, it will be difficult to recharge with jumpers at idle. I'd take a lithium-ion jumper pack (like a MicroGravity XP10) just to be sure I can start the truck when I have to. Most old computer cords should work for 110V, as long as the connectors match, but remember that newer computers don't draw much current so make sure wire gauge is adequate. The 7.5amp jack might be OK, but I don't know what the max draw is on your fridge. A common mistake with 12V outlets is to use too small a wire gauge when connecting them. Bigger is better, and use an inline fuse.

You are in So Cal, so it will be hot. I just returned from seven days in AZ with a 50L Indel B fridge on the back seat of my truck. Worked like a champ, but I have it wired to a pair of new Grp 34 AGMs with a 270amp alternator. I was driving the truck about two hours per day and that was enough to keep the batteries charged. The day I did not drive the truck, the fridge hit the low voltage cutout after about 38 hours, but the frozen water bottles kept things cool enough for the balance of that day. My guess is that you will have a hard time keeping stuff cold with your current setup. Might want to get a solar setup before you leave. Put insulating blankets over the fridge, even if you have it in a travel bag, and block the rear windows to keep sun off the fridge.

Thanks for the info. It's a 04 Suburban K2500 With a 8.1L, and according to the RPO codes, it's a 145amp alternator. The battery is a newer interstate, but I don't remember the battery group size off the top of my head. We will be hunting in the Mammoth Lakes area, and it's supposed to be highs in the high 60's and lows in the high 30's. I maybe able to install a dual battery set up before I leave next week. Don't really want to, but will if I have to make it work. I plan to use the factory wires from the stock plug and just install them into the 12v plug. The fridge will be definitely covered with blankets as there are a crap load of bears up there, and I don't want them breaking into the wife's Suburban to get into the fridge.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
highs in the high 60's and lows in the high 30's.
That will help a lot. Our AZ trip was last week and the coolest day was 107, most above 110. When I first got my fridge, I ran it off one of the factory 12V outlets on the dash and it worked OK. If your Sub has the factory 12V outlet in the panel by the tailgate, that should be fine. But take a jumper pack anyway.
 

Arclight

SAR guy
You should be fine. You might want to consider a low-voltage disconnect. This will still allow you to start the truck if the fridge gets left on too long between charges.

http://prioritystart.com/

They are available on Amazon.

Arclight

Thanks for the info. It's a 04 Suburban K2500 With a 8.1L, and according to the RPO codes, it's a 145amp alternator. The battery is a newer interstate, but I don't remember the battery group size off the top of my head. We will be hunting in the Mammoth Lakes area, and it's supposed to be highs in the high 60's and lows in the high 30's. I maybe able to install a dual battery set up before I leave next week. Don't really want to, but will if I have to make it work. I plan to use the factory wires from the stock plug and just install them into the 12v plug. The fridge will be definitely covered with blankets as there are a crap load of bears up there, and I don't want them breaking into the wife's Suburban to get into the fridge.
 

CaliMobber

Adventurer
The fridge has a built in low voltage shut off so no need to worry about dead batteries. I doubt 15min a day will be enough but you will just have to see. Have a volt meter to check battery volts and when they are getting low drive the car around a little or run it for a while then check the volts after its been off for a little and see where your at.
 

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