New Guy from Idaho, future camper build

[IdaSHO]

Hello guys and gals. Occasional lurker, first time poster here.

Ive had the itch to build either a flatbed pickup camper, or a small trailer camper for some time. I have decided strongly against the trailer. Simply because I would rather not limit myself to what I can tow, even when Im camping. In other words, my options are still open to tow something, even with a pickup camper installed.

The rig is my '96 Powerstroke 4x4 Flatbed. Rancher special, as I call it. It is just ugly enough to make people think twice about hogging my lane. And it has the power to pull nearly anything up any grade.

The plan is quite simple. Build an easy to install/remove flat-bottom camper to ride on the flatbed. Other key requirement is if needed, I would like it to remain 100% functional as a camper when off of the truck. Even if that means setting the thing right on the ground. Kind of a 'POD" of sorts. So the camper must be very strong.

Another requirement is the insulation factor. Im gong with a minimum of R12. Depending upon the budget, I may push it to R15. This will be coupled with a radiant shield foil as well. It gets darn cold up here in Northern Idaho. So floor, walls, and ceiling will be insulated. And few windows will be used.

Ive been active in the residential and commercial building industry for more than 15 years now. So, instead of looking to some sort of fancy super-lite honeycomb fiberglass wall panels to build the thing, I will be going a little more old-school. It will without a doubt be heavier, but I know it will work, it will more than likely be cheaper, and I dont have to learn a new trade to build the thing. I want to build it once, and do it right the first time.

Im planning on building the structure using a primary skeleton, a steel square tubing cage at all integral strength points.

The walls will be laminate of my choice. Right now Im looking at

3/8ACX - radiant foil shield - R12closed cell rigid foam - hardwood paneling

The outside will be coated entirely with a roofing/deck coating we carry at work called Gaco-roof http://www.gacoretail.com/gacoroof.html If anyone has any feedback on this product, please let me know. Ive heard nothing but good things about it for home building, however.... I hope to use the TAN version.

The interior will be sparse to save space. A "full" bed for the wife and I, a bench seat, table, and various cabinets for storage. There will be room enough for a small counter with sink, and if we feel the need, a closet for a porta-potty can be added.

Anywho.... here is what I have on paper so far.

The flatbed is a full 86" x 96", and the cab sits 32 inches above the deck.

Side

Back

Floorplan

 

[Redline]

I like it.

1996 Power Stroke is a great truck.

Welcome

 

[fisher205]

I would HIGHLY recommend a passenger side door instead of out the back. Trust me, if you hit any kind of dirt road especially if it has a little water added you will have a hard time getting in an and out of the back without getting dirty. See www.bimobil.com and Turtle Espeditions for some good example layouts. Also this will allow you to hang all sorts of things off of the back, such as spare tires, bikes, fuel cans. - Brad

 

[bucketosudz]

Welcome to the Portal!! Nice rig and Ohhh how I miss Northern Idaho. I spent 2 years in CDA and I would go back in a heartbeat. Will be watching your thread.:victory:

 

[IdaSHO]

Well, Im having too much fun now. I ran across another build thread on this forum that showed some Google Sketchup images.

Im hooked....


Now Im thinking about a hard-side tilt top:victory:

 

[Bogo]

Good luck with your project. I'm designing a back for a '94 Toyota 4x4 mini truck.

Watching weight is the most important thing. It adds up very fast! Don't forget to consider water, extra fuel, tools, people, food, and luggage.

PS: A bonded together AL/foam/AL wall is light and stiff. Fiberglass skins can make it even lighter. If you have a large enough and truly flat floor it is relatively easy to bond up your own panels. I've considered using liquid nails and regular construction foam, but am worried about the temperatures the regular construction foam can withstand. A horizontal white painted surface of a car or boat at sea level at 35 degrees latitude can reach 220F on a sunny calm day.

Take a look at the thicknesses of walls that the windows you want to use can be mounted in. Motion Windows 1800 Series which is double paned can be installed into an up to 3-1/4" thick wall.

 

[IdaSHO]

Thanks for the suggestions, and the link to the windows.

Ive been running some rough numbers for weight, and I think Im going to rethink things a bit. I scored a bunch of commercial sheetmetal studs that I could use for wall framing (layed flat) and have found a source for 48" wide aluminum roll metal. So, currently thinking a welded sheetmetal framed body, wrapped in aluminum.


So Until I really decide, Ill continue to have fun with this Google Sketchup

Darn addicting!

I like this design though. A lot. Plenty of space, simple hard-side tilt up, and still short enough to fit into my garage (9' tall door)

 

[Bogo]

The lightest wall I've come up that is affordable is a 0.04" FRP sheet with a 3lbs per cu ft structural foam. That is $15/sq ft for a 1.75" thick foam wall with a weight of about 1.04 lbs/sq ft plus glue. I found a carbon fiber skinned foam board that is much lighter, but at $1000 for 8 sq ft it is unaffordable.:Wow1:

FRP sheet: http://www.tchweb.com/tchstore/product/510-3700/c900/Smooth-Fiberglass-Sheet--Black.html

Foam: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/divinycellfoam.php

This is my design as it looks now. The box in the pictures is not quite as wide as I'm currently planning. It is also drawn with 1" thick walls versus 1.75" thick ones.

Top down:

Top up:

Corner construction detail:

The red sliders will be thinner or absent. Orange is foam, but 1" rather than the 1.75" I'm leaning towards using now. The aluminum corner pieces will be bonded to the panels with auto body adhesives or VHB tape. The outer frames will be welded together at the corners. The inner angle pieces will just be fitted and glued in place. The angles are architectural profile 2"x2"x1/8" aluminum. The curved outer piece is formed by bending 1/8" aluminum plate. The lighter foam at the corner is low expansion window sealing foam from those cans. I'll need to use a longer straw, but that is doable. It will be done after the inner angle is glued and setup. Some conduits will be in there for wiring for side marker lights. At 80" wide it just trips truck marking regulations for USA and Canada.

Even with all this lightening work I'm still looking at 475 to 500 lbs for the box. The interior is 6'9" long and 6' wide. When the top is up it is 6'2" high inside. I'm feeling a bit frustrated as the window I want to use has a frame about 2" thick so I had to go to 1.75" thick walls for it. I was originally looking at 1" thick walls.

The base truck is a '94 Toyota 4x4 Pickup.

 

[Bogo]

The lightest wall I've come up that is affordable is a 0.04" FRP sheet with a 3lbs per cu ft structural foam. That is $15/sq ft for a 1.75" thick foam wall with a weight of about 1.04 lbs/sq ft plus glue.

It should be possible to use the FRP skins with housing foam wall board insulation sheets and lower the price. It just won't be as strong or able to handle as high of skin temperatures from sun heating.

 

[krebsatm02]

Bogo, what are you using to seal the sliding part? Have an interior layout yet?

Here's what I'm working with at the moment...

M1010

 

[Bogo]

Bogo, what are you using to seal the sliding part? Have an interior layout yet?

Here's what I'm working with at the moment...

M1010

Interior is free form. I was going to make boxes that can be latched down to rails on the floor and walls.

For sealing the sliding part there will be two brush style gaskets. One at the top and one at the bottom. When at the top and bottom positions there is only a 1/4" gap. When closed the top will rest on a D style seal that will either be on the top of the base wall or affixed to the bottom of the top's walls and there will then be a ledge for it to seat against. The D seal should keep most road dust out.

 

[IdaSHO]

your sealing methods are very similar to the plans I have. I really didnt want to deal with a full lift though. The tilt is MUCH easier to build, actuate, and seal. And you dont have the weird door access issues. Just dont get the additional headroom. :ylsmoke:

 

[Bogo]

your sealing methods are very similar to the plans I have. I really didnt want to deal with a full lift though. The tilt is MUCH easier to build, actuate, and seal. And you dont have the weird door access issues. Just dont get the additional headroom. :ylsmoke:

That hinge could have a flap of EDPM glued over it. That will allow a conventional heavy duty piano hinge to be used. What I'm worried about is keeping blown water while driving out, yet also being able to keep water running off the roof out too. If the hinge point is above the root top I can see how to do it, but if it is at the roof height I can't.

Yep, I concur that tilt is easier to build. I want hard sides and trying to do that on such a small platform as mine using a hinge is difficult. This way also allows me to make it fairly short.

As for the door. I'm divided. I'm tempted not to have one on the top part but I fear that may be a mistake. I'd just put a window there. The sloped part at the bottom will drop down to become a stair. So a person exiting would be first stepping down some, but I don't think that will be enough so I may need the top. I'll mock up the opening and do some walk throughs to see if it will work. If I do have to have a door on the top portion is will be tall enough to allow the door on the bottom to be opened when the top is down.

 

[boblynch]

I might have been the one to set you on the Google Sketup path. If so, sorry and welcome to the cult. Two features you may find helpful. Layers allow you to assign objects to groups and have the ability to only view the assigned groups rather than the entire sketch. This is very helpful for isolating separate items and checking dimensions. The second one is the Rotate feature. This is good for checking articulation and approach/breakover, and departure angles. Best of luck.

 

[IdaSHO]

Thanks for the tips! Yes, Im addicted..... very much so! :Wow1:

The layer feature, is that in the free version? or do you have the paid version?