New guy with a couple questions.

[Tundra08]

Hello, I have an 08 Tundra crew cab sr5, 5.7L, 4x4 that I’m looking to add an OvrLnd camper too. Aside from the tires and wheels, it’s stock. I’m in my planning stages now and have been reading the awesome ovrlnd builds on here but I didn’t want to crowd those threads with more generic stuff.

My build, at least in my head, will be pretty straightforward. I’m planning some low profile drawers like the ARB 5.5” base, an 80/20 u shaped set up in the bed to create benches for my teenage sons to sleep on, and we’ll also have benches to sit on. I know weight can add up quick and I’m trying to avoid having to do any major suspension upgrades but I wonder if that’s a pipe cream.

Before I set out buying and building, I was hoping to hear from other 1/2 ton owners who’ve put an ovrlnd or the same style of pop up on their half tons and what all, if anything they had to do suspension wise. It’s vital I go in eyes fully open. It may matter that we only do gravel roads, BLM/fire roads and the like. I’m not doing any technical trails, rock crawling, etc.

Also, I notice a lot of builds use propex but I haven’t seen many use diesel heaters. Is there any reason why? it may not be possible but an externally mounted (underbelly) diesel heater seems like a great way to save space.

thanks for your feedback.

 

[dstefan]

You are likely OK for forest roads generally, but you may not be completely happy with no suspension mods at all.

When I had the Ovrlnd installed my truck was stock and it handled it fine, but the camper was not built out. Our initial set up included fridge/slider, Bedrug, batterybox, switch panel and wiring, insulation and paneling, and a couple of Plano boxes for gear, Max tracks, recovery gear, 5 57 lb tires (for install) in the bed and a rear seat platform, but no built ins and no water on board. When I took it to the shop for the suspension work, it did sit just a hair lower in the rear, but basically just evened out the slight stock rake to the front loaded as described.

After the instal with the ~2.5” lift, HD springs in the back and the tires no longer in the bed, the rig regained it’s slight rear to front rake. Fully loaded currently with built-ins, etc it’s pretty heavy now when fully packed and wet for a trip, but it sits level with no squat. The handling on-road and off is great with the weight, and it could handle more. It feels and acts perfectly dialed in and I’m very happy with it.

Yes, you will likely make it heavier than you plan to! My interior build out is pretty lightweight, and I think with the way you describe it above it yours may be heavier in the bed for the built ins. I’m over GVWR by basically my water and food weight and clothing when loaded, but some of that is also unsprung weight in tires, springs, gears, lockers, and suspension. The rest is skid plates, sliders, compressor, etc.

While I did build my rig for more technical trails and some rock crawling, and the mods are great for that, I will say that where I feel the positive impacts of the mods most often is on the FS fire roads, curvy paved mountain roads, and the many miles of washboards that are inevitable.

In your case, I’d guess you might be happiest with shock upgrades (especially if you’re still running stock ones), and some rear spring enhancement, but don’t need to lift and add aftermarket UCAs You could start with some add a leaf or overload springs in the rear, and that may be all you need. If you don’t want to spring for compression adjustable shocks (which are really game changers for varying terrain) and you have or are keeping swaybars, then just about any decent shock upgrade, with some mid-travel improvement will likely work well and not break the bank.

Hope this helps! Happy to answer any questions.

 

[Tundra08]

You are likely OK for forest roads generally, but you may not be completely happy with no suspension mods at all.

When I had the Ovrlnd installed my truck was stock and it handled it fine, but the camper was not built out. Our initial set up included fridge/slider, Bedrug, batterybox, switch panel and wiring, insulation and paneling, and a couple of Plano boxes for gear, Max tracks, recovery gear, 5 57 lb tires (for install) in the bed and a rear seat platform, but no built ins and no water on board. When I took it to the shop for the suspension work, it did sit just a hair lower in the rear, but basically just evened out the slight stock rake to the front loaded as described.

After the instal with the ~2.5” lift, HD springs in the back and the tires no longer in the bed, the rig regained it’s slight rear to front rake. Fully loaded currently with built-ins, etc it’s pretty heavy now when fully packed and wet for a trip, but it sits level with no squat. The handling on-road and off is great with the weight, and it could handle more. It feels and acts perfectly dialed in and I’m very happy with it.

Yes, you will likely make it heavier than you plan to! My interior build out is pretty lightweight, and I think with the way you describe it above it yours may be heavier in the bed for the built ins. I’m over GVWR by basically my water and food weight and clothing when loaded, but some of that is also unsprung weight in tires, springs, gears, lockers, and suspension. The rest is skid plates, sliders, compressor, etc.

While I did build my rig for more technical trails and some rock crawling, and the mods are great for that, I will say that where I feel the positive impacts of the mods most often is on the FS fire roads, curvy paved mountain roads, and the many miles of washboards that are inevitable.

In your case, I’d guess you might be happiest with shock upgrades (especially if you’re still running stock ones), and some rear spring enhancement, but don’t need to lift and add aftermarket UCAs You could start with some add a leaf or overload springs in the rear, and that may be all you need. If you don’t want to spring for compression adjustable shocks (which are really game changers for varying terrain) and you have or are keeping swaybars, then just about any decent shock upgrade, with some mid-travel improvement will likely work well and not break the bank.

Hope this helps! Happy to answer any questions.

That was a very helpful reply, thank you very much. Specific to your comments on upgrading my shocks. I am still on the stock ones and as I’ve been reading, I see the need to do some sort of suspension mods, mainly because the ovrlnd camper will be on the truck most of the time. I have a feeling wheel bearings and the like will pay a price if I don’t do some sort of mods. while a new set of leaf springs would be nice, they are sure proud of those sets. Lol. Big time money.

once the kids are older and moved out in a couple years, it’ll just be me and the wife and dog so I’ll do a partial rear seat delete, most likely 40% and move the fridge in there.

In the build out weight department, I don’t have any 80/20 to weigh so I wonder if it will weigh more or less than a 2x2. Which ever is lighter, I will want to go with.
when you had your ovrlnd, did you take the tailgate off or leave it on?

Do you have any thoughts on an externally mounted diesel heater?
thanks again for the feedback, it is very helpful.

 

[dstefan]

You’re welcome!

In the build out weight department, I don’t have any 80/20 to weigh so I wonder if it will weigh more or less than a 2x2. Which ever is lighter, I will want to go with.

The 8020 website has tons of info, calculators, etc. IIRC, series 10 (1”), which I used is .5 lb per foot. I weighed all the material I ordered for my build, including fasteners still in the shrink wrap and it was 45 lbs, but that also included 12’ of extra for other projects (~6 lbs). With some baltic birch and and other fastners plus some extra fasteners I ordered, my estimate is my build out inside was around 110 - 120 lbs. But my cabinet and bench is pretty minimalist. You can see it on the Ovrlnd thread if you haven’t already.

Don’t fall into the trap that you need a stouter series like 15. It’s way heavy and just not needed. In fact, I kinda wish I’d used 20 series, which is 20mm and a hair over 3/4’, nearly as strong, as 10 series and lots of alternate, cheaper sources (Amazon), and lighter. I’m also considering replacing some of my build using lighter aluminum angle if I rework my cabinet for a sink.

Also, 8020.com is quite expensive and slow to ship. Not worth it unless you need specialty pieces (eg, hinges, 45 degree mitered supports, etc). Use TNutz.com — same extrustions and fastners, cheaper and faster to ship.

when you had your ovrlnd, did you take the tailgate off or leave it on?

No. We LOVE the TG. With the rear awning, it’s like a deck. We hang out there in nice spots a lot. It replaces our camp chairs a lot. though we still bring and use the. Having the Bedrug makes it more comfy.

Do you have any thoughts on an externally mounted diesel heater?

I don’t like diesel personally, though i see the attraction to them. Partly due to me having some respiratory issues, so the smell of both the exhaust and the fuel is a deal breaker for me. Would have likely used a Propex, but made the mistake of not planning for where it would go before I planned and built anything else in the camper. The holes and routing required for intake and exhaust (same issue for the diesels) impose some real limitations. Inside my build, I couldn’t fit one. External mounting a diesel heater is easier, but I don’t want anything hanging on the sides of my rig to catch brush, and I don’t want to schlep a heavy suitcase in and out. But again, it might be the thing you want.

while a new set of leaf springs would be nice, they are sure proud of those sets. Lol. Big time money.

Don’t know where you’re located, but some areas have really quite good local spring shops, who can build the perfect custom spring set for your needs vs expensive Deavers or Alcons. You likely don’t need progressive springs for the use you described. A simple custom leaf set or add a leafs or overloads likely would work. Check around your area for a spring shop.

Also, you might want to cross post some of your questions on the Ovrlnd thread. There’s all sorts of different approaches to building these out and to some extent I’m sort of an outlier in terms of how I’ve approached my build and what i want to accomplish. Others may have some very different and valuable perspectives for you.

 

[ThundahBeagle]

Not having either of your specific setups, but having been cross country and camped out of a 10 year old half ton GMC with a Leer shell on it, and having leveled it prior to putting the Leer cap on, I am betting that 2008 era springs and shocks would need replacement just on general principle? Bearing and hubs are a good idea too.

I've not put in helper springs but carrying only 800 pounds of bricks today made me wish I had

 

[rruff]

I know weight can add up quick and I’m trying to avoid having to do any major suspension upgrades but I wonder if that’s a pipe cream.

It will ride better offroad and drive better everywhere.

I put Ironman FC Pros on mine (2" front lift) and it made a huge difference. Cost was ~$1100 last year. I even removed the front swaybar... and just recently installed my huge camper on it, and it still handles great. That only added around 500 lbs though... I'm sure I'll notice when I get it loaded. My truck has 23k miles so the springs are good. Don't need anything in the rear yet, but have airbags, and will probably try a short and a long add-a-leaf, plus removal of the overload spring. If your truck has the original springs, you'll be due for replacing those.

 

[ThundahBeagle]

It will ride better offroad and drive better everywhere.

I put Ironman FC Pros on mine (2" front lift) and it made a huge difference. Cost was ~$1100 last year. I even removed the front swaybar... and just recently installed my huge camper on it, and it still handles great. That only added around 500 lbs though... I'm sure I'll notice when I get it loaded. My truck has 23k miles so the springs are good. Don't need anything in the rear yet, but have airbags, and will probably try a short and a long add-a-leaf, plus removal of the overload spring. If your truck has the original springs, you'll be due for replacing those.

Slide in camper that's only 500 pounds? What kind is that? My Leer camper shell is near the 200 pound range

 

[rruff]

Slide in camper that's only 500 pounds? What kind is that? My Leer camper shell is near the 200 pound range

Not a slide in; a home made bolted to the frame, monster. It's ~750 lb, plus 100 lb of frame interface and isolators. Removed the ~350 lb bed.

 

[dstefan]

Not a slide in; a home made bolted to the frame, monster. It's ~750 lb, plus 100 lb of frame interface and isolators. Removed the ~350 lb bed.

View attachment 795079

@rruff any feedback on how your rig handles with the weight and higher COG of the camper and without your front sway bar?

I’m on the verge of removing mine. Not too concerned with my suspension and my experience with Tacoma and no sway bar, but I’m certainly heavier now and while the load is mostly down low and the camper is not that tall/heavy being a pop top so wondering . . . and your rig with camper is the closest analog I can think of. Edit: I’m really primarily wondering about the degree of control of lean/roll on-road with the camper on now.

BTW — camper looks really great! Love the aerodynmics of it too. You should post about the build a bit. What’s the material and shell structure?

 

[rruff]

@rruff any feedback on how your rig handles with the weight and higher COG of the camper and without your front sway bar?

It handles fine, but it isn't much heavier... yet. There will be an additional 1500 lb or so. When I add weight it will mostly be on the floor of the camper, and back seat, and under the camper... there is a surprising amount of space under there! I took it up and down the ski road and some other switchbacks, and had no trouble exceeding the speed limit with ease. There is sway, but it's very predictable. The shocks do a good job of damping sudden movements. It handles fine at high speeds in crosswinds also.

It's 1.5" PVC foam with hand laid fiberglass and carbon with epoxy. I will post about it eventually... lots of work to do yet.

 

[dstefan]

Thanks @rruff! That’s what I was hoping to hear. My load is pretty low down too and in the back seats as well. I’ve got a trip with many rough off-road miles coming up and pretty sure, I’m gonna ditch the swaybars for it.

Will be very interested to see more build details on your rig . . .🍿

 

[rruff]

They come off real easy, so do some switchbacks roads, take them off, and try again. Maybe you don't have any roads like that near, though. What are your shocks?

 

[dstefan]

It’s not the swaybars that are hard it’s the damn TRD pro skid plate over them, but yeah, that’s the plan. My old Tacoma didn’t have them after lifting it and it was fine loaded, though it did wallow a bit, so I have dealt with the change before — just without the camper.

Shouldn’t have any real trouble as I have compression adjustable digressive Icon 2.5s that really tighten things up on high setting and HD Deaver springs in the rear that are handling the weight really well. Really just wondered how the camper height and vertical COG affected your handling. Thanks!