New Member needs some advice

[kmacafee]

Greetings

I have been reading this forum for a few months and have learned a ton. By way of background, I owned and drove an FJ40 for years in the late 70's but starting a family required a different vehicle. So now, with the daughter grown, I have been considering getting another Land Cruiser to convert to an overland type vehicle.

Coincidentally, while I have been looking at a number of mid-90's FJ80's, I read what Expedition West posted about their recent acquisition and how much they respected that particular model. I know what to generally look for in used vehicles but wanted to solicit some advice about these vehicles in particular.

Specifically:

are all of the mid-90's versions basically the same? Drive train, 4wd system?
Are there options/features that are desirable/undesirable that I should be looking for?
Given I live up here in Minnesota where salt is heavily used, are there specific areas that are prone to rust?

Most of the ones I have looked at are pretty stock, with mileage in the 140-200k range and costing anywhere from 7-$9500. They all have the normal bells and whistles.

Any help you folks can give me would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to get to the Overland Expo this year to immerse myself a little more in this craziness.

Cheers

Kevin
St. Paul

 

[coax]

A few good resources to start with are Slee's website and the 80 series forum on ih8mud. Tons of good information on there regarding various year changes, features (like lockers=desirable, roofrack=waiting rustholes) as well as lots of good technical break/fix information and things to check before buying a vehicle.

hth

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbie100.htm
http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-t...0-dec-2010-addedtools-r-us-toe-alignment.html

 

[kmacafee]

Thanks for the links

I will check them out

 

[welltech]

There not all the same. 95-97 are the best years and you want one with the factroy lockers.

 

[kmacafee]

Factory Lockers

So far, a few of the ones I have looked at have a dash switch which allows one to lock front and rear. Can I assume this is what you are referring to? Or are there other options?

Thanks again

 

[luk4mud]

So far, a few of the ones I have looked at have a dash switch which allows one to lock front and rear. Can I assume this is what you are referring to? Or are there other options?

Thanks again

You are correct- it is a dial to the left of the steering wheel. I own an 97 FZJ80 with factory lockers. Given a choice, and IF I could come out even $ wise (big if) I would prefer one with non factory lockers and would instead install ARBs. I have owned ARBs in the past and just prefer them to an e-locker.

 

[Klierslc]

It depends on your intended usage really. I had a 93 and 94 with factory lockers, and I put an aussie locker in the rear of my 97. They are AWD, so the auto locker is transparent. E-lockers can be a bit slow to engage without regular exercise, but IMO are more reliable than the ARB. I wouldn't say the the 95-97 has anything over the 93-94 unless you are planning on forced induction--the OBD II system is a little smarter in that regard. I prefer the earlier transmission and OBD I, but I like the subtle changes in the interior on the 97. As with most used cars, find the one (93-97) that is in your price range, in the best condition, and has the least miles. Also check the Ih8mud classifieds--you might end up with a partially built rig for not much more than a stocker. Also, many folks on Mud maintain their vehicles very well. This is a huge plus. The only weakness of this platform is the headgasket is prone to blowing unless it has been changed out with the redesigned gasket. This is arguable as I have had three, all with over 170k and the original gaskets.....FWIW.

Good Luck,

Dan

 

[kmacafee]

Additional Question

First, thanks to all for providing a lot of great insight and advice.

During my 4WD days in the 70's, all the vehicles I owned had manually locking hubs. My FJ40 was the only vehicle amongst my peers that never ever got stuck -- other vehicles included Scouts, Jeeps, Bronco's and Blazers. I never thought the manual locking hubs were a problem.

I understand that the locking hubs only lock the axle and not the diff. But, unless one is doing some serious rock crawling, how critical are locking diffs? Do older Land Rovers have them? If not, considering where they have taken folks, they wouldn't seem absolutely necessary in most cases.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Cheers

Kevin

 

[zags]

I understand that the locking hubs only lock the axle and not the diff. But, unless one is doing some serious rock crawling, how critical are locking diffs? Do older Land Rovers have them? If not, considering where they have taken folks, they wouldn't seem absolutely necessary in most cases.

The difference in off road performance with a rear locking differential is amazing, especially when you are in terrain where you lift wheels. The further addition of a front locking differential is less dramatic and I feel not as needed unless you are into rock crawling type stuff. Front lockers can also put significantly higher load on front axles, joints and hubs, as all of the vehicle's torque can be transmitted to one wheel in some situations.

 

[Klierslc]

First, thanks to all for providing a lot of great insight and advice.

During my 4WD days in the 70's, all the vehicles I owned had manually locking hubs. My FJ40 was the only vehicle amongst my peers that never ever got stuck -- other vehicles included Scouts, Jeeps, Bronco's and Blazers. I never thought the manual locking hubs were a problem.

I understand that the locking hubs only lock the axle and not the diff. But, unless one is doing some serious rock crawling, how critical are locking diffs? Do older Land Rovers have them? If not, considering where they have taken folks, they wouldn't seem absolutely necessary in most cases.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Cheers

Kevin

To answer your questions: Yes, some of the older land rovers have locking diffs and No, they are not necessary. An unlocked 80 series is well more capable than most trucks out there.

 

[CSG]

My '02 LX only has a center locking differential. After a year, the only time I had to use any more than 4 Hi and TRAC was playing in my driveway a week or so ago where we had a large drift on one end (circular drive). I didn't hit it with enough momentum and got stuck (wheels spinning). I engaged the differential and slowly drove out. That's all I know about it.

I don't do rock crawling or anything radical with my rig so it's basic capabilities are suitable for me with no added lockers. The CLD was nice to have in this case.

 

[Life_in_4Lo]

CDL= 2 wheel drive
CDL+RR locker= 3 wheel drive
CDL+FR/RR lockers= 4 wheel drive

 

[sprocket3]

Spend the time to get one with lockers if you are getting an 80 series. When you need it, it's worth the trouble spent up front to find one.

When it comes to mods, don't do more than you will need. The lift and bumpers look great, but you pay the price on the street. Even a 2" lift and 33" tires can make a huge difference in street driving.

I think driving it stock for a year and then thinking about what might really be needed is a good way to do it. If you don't need the lift, don't do it.

A stock 80 feels like a sports car compared to a fully modified rig.

 

[kmacafee]

Great advice

I have never been a big believer in changing the height of a vehicle. Sure, if you absolutely need it, do it. But my plans can be carried out with a vehicle with stock height. A more aggressive tire maybe.

Thanks all for the help. The search continues.