New multi use trailer build

klb67

Observer
I lurked on here and elsewhere a bunch, asked some questions, got tons of great ideas, and am finally in the process of getting my own multi use utility/camping trailer. I have an acquaintance doing all of the welding/fab work, as I haven't the skill or equipment to do that. I'll be painting it and doing the final assembly and details.


My goals were a 4.5' x 6' trailer bed suitable to haul everything from wood and mulch to camping gear, duck hunting gear, and whatever else I need. It needed a rack to haul a 14' canoe and a tongue length long enough for the canoe. I decided on a hard lid and lockable tailgate for security, particularly to be able to leave it overnight in a parking lot.


It will see a lot of highway miles, some gravel and dirt roads in the northeast (PA mostly) - no major off roading. It will be towed by my 2004 Jeep Grand Cheorkee or my 2007 Ford Explorer - both fairly stock. I wanted it sturdy but not too overbuilt, and wanted it to ride as soft as possible with a light load (thinking canoe and just a bit of gear) but also be able to handle well fully loaded.


Here's the frame and axle:


IMG_20130302_163927.jpg

with side framing:


Frame and sides1.jpg

Side and floor steel install started:


frame and sides2.jpg

More to come...
 

klb67

Observer
A few more pictures.

Tongue and jack installed

Trailer tongue 1.jpg

Tailgate frame - metal is welded on the inside (not shown in this pic).

trailer rear1.jpg

Front rack - I haven't seen this in person yet, but based on the picture, I may want it shorter (I'll at least drill holes to have the ability to lower it). I would like to be able to open the lid some with the rack and canoe still on the trailer, if possible.

trailer rack on trailer1.jpg
 

klb67

Observer
Thanks Mark. No matching tires on this one, yet anyway. Just 185 80 13's. My explorer has 18s and the jeep has 17s and since this trailer won't be rock crawling, I didn't much see the need for a big tire on it. I also didn't want to overdo it on axle and springs given the relatively small size and desire to keep it somewhat light weight (it will be heavy for its size though). I've designed the frame to easily handle more though, and can swap out springs and axle and tires down the road if I want. The fenders should be able to handle at least 15's, and they be swapped out for bigger fenders too.

The rack design is largely the design I saw on here from Doug2000's trailer, with some tweaks. The uprights slide through and will be bolted to this receiver:

trailer rack receiver.jpg
 

Mark Harley

Expedition Leader
Very nice,

I was interested in the rims and tires for a custom canoe project of mine.
They look good on the trailer and are a nice tall thin size.

Trailer design is very nice too. will you cover the top or leave it open?
 

klb67

Observer
It will have a hard lid, 1x1 steel frame and I got 20 gauge sheet to cover it, trying to keep it as light as I can. I'm planning to hinge it in the front with barrel take-off hinges, given my tailgate design, and so I can hopefully open the lid enough even with the canoe still on, if needed, to grab something out of the trailer, and so the lid can easily be removed.

I ordered the rims and tires online. They have a bit of an aggressive tread for a trailer tire, which should help in dirt/sand or snow.

I always liked the bantam trailer and went with round fenders, rather than the jeep style fenders. It will have jeep tail/turn lights as well, mounded on the rear bumper. It will have a rear receiver as well. The tongue extends from 4' to 6' from the front of the bed to the hitch, the longer length needed for the canoe. I think I can still fit a thin tongue box on the A part of the frame. I can remove the tongue entirely and store the trailer on end, if it doesn't end up being too heavy to do so. Removing the tongue will also make it harder to steal.
 

klb67

Observer
I got a few pictures earlier in the week of the side steps installed on the driver's side. I'll need to decide if I'm going to leave the fenders extend below as they are, or shorten them up a bit. I'll wait until I see it in person. The fenders bolt on to enable me to paint the trailer side and the backside of the fender.

steps1.jpgsteps2.jpg
 

klb67

Observer
The fab work is getting closer to being done - the lid frame should be cut out today. I'm placing the order for latches and associated hardware today. We had to change the rack receiver mount - the ID on the reciever was just to close to the OD of the rack such that I'm confident that with paint, they wouldn't work. I'm hoping this will be sufficient - the fabricator said it's still rock solid.

IMG_20130505_212559.jpgIMG_20130505_195019.jpg
 

klb67

Observer
When designing it, I calculated the metal weight at about 550 lbs, not including the lid, rack, welding wire, jack or hardware. The 1/8" floor is 133 lbs by itself. The lid should be about 60 lbs and each rack should be about 20 lbs. The 550 lbs also does not include the axle, springs or tires. I haven't weighted it yet. It feels heavier than I thought 550 lbs. would feel. I was curious to compare and found that a Carry-On brand wood floor basic 4x6 utility trailer has a dry weight of 350 lbs.
 

klb67

Observer
More progress. Rack is done. Lid is framed and mounted. Jeep tail lights temporarily installed.

I should have more progress pics/details soon.

lid top view1.jpgtrailer lid1.jpgjeep lights.jpg
 

klb67

Observer
Lid sheeting is on. Just needs the hitch receiver, a few weld-on tie downs, and I'll get it this weekend and try to make time soon for bodywork and paint, wiring and hardware. I got my last care package from McMaster with most everything I need, and the gas springs for the lid should be here soon. I'm anxious to get it and get it done.


trailer lid.jpg
 

klb67

Observer
Thanks. I took a lot of ideas from other trailers on here and elsewhere. When I get the trailer done, I'll post some pics of the details too (locks, latches, tailgate supports, etc.). I'm hoping the trailer will be as useful as I imagined when I started taking notes and sketching designs.

Mark - what did you apply to the top of your canoe trailer rack - looks like stair tread? I want to put something on my rack - I'd love to find a vinyl product like the stuff that comes on Thule/Yakima rack rails. I want to at least protect the top and sides, when I'm sliding the canoe on.
 

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