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Wanderlusty

Explorer
crawler#976 said:
Hey Fat Man (or as I'm called by my mexican freinds "Hey Gordo")

Do you have any sand dunes near by?

Sand is perhaps the best medium for demonstrating of the benifits airing down. Snow is similar, but sand is a sure thing!

Try to climb a sand hill at street pressure - see how far you get, mark the spot, then air down to 10 or 12 PSI and try it again!

Stick to the up hill stuff - you can "generally" back out with out a problem...

In 2003 I went to Johnson Valley BLM OHV area north of Palm Springs, CA. There are some large drifted dunes on the northwest side of the hills - 400 to 500 feet high. At 5 PSI I was able to use my 109:1 gearing and crawl a dune - took me about 20 minutes tho. I tried it at 15 PSI and only got 50 feet up before the truck dug itself in.

No dunes. Our soil itself is somewhat sandy, but nothing like sand dunes.

This is making me curious even so to try airing down just on a regular trail to see how it affects the ride.
 

Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
Fat_Man said:
No dunes. Our soil itself is somewhat sandy, but nothing like sand dunes.

This is making me curious even so to try airing down just on a regular trail to see how it affects the ride.

You should try it! It makes all the difference in the world. When I first started reading and learning about airing-down in 4x4 magazines 20+years ago it was a foreign concept to me too. And of course, having a means to air-up before hitting the high speed highways is a concern. I agree that sand dunes are an excellent, dramatic demonstration as to the benefits of airing-down.

I'm a somewhat aggressive PSI dropper considering my rigs don't have bead-locks. But it's all relative. What width tire on what width rim? The stiffness of the tire sidewall and its resistance to unseating can also make a difference.

I think that 20-psi is pretty conservative PSI drop for most applications. I even run lower than that (sometimes much lower) with my heavy F350 diesel with relatively narrow tires (255) on 7-in rims. Experience will teach you how much you can or should drop the PSI. But if you are not driving fast and turning hard with a heavy rig you will be surprised how low you can go.

If you run your tires at around 35-psi on the street you will definitely notice a big difference at 20-psi, hell even 25-psi.
 

Wanderlusty

Explorer
Redline said:
And of course, having a means to air-up before hitting the high speed highways is a concern. I agree that sand dunes are an excellent, dramatic demonstration as to the benefits of airing-down.

Indeed that has been one of the main obstacles for me. I don't have on-board air, and because I haven't felt the need to air down, haven't been willing to spend the money (yet) and have been afraid to air down just riding because there is no guarantee that I will end up somewhere with air. I don't want to drive on pavement too long aired down....though all the time I see cars driving down the road on near-flat tires...so maybe I worry too much....
 

bc_fjc

Observer
I'm originally from eastern Canada and have spent a far bit of time exploring and camping on the back roads of Ontario... Airing down has little effect on your traction for the most part but it will make the ride that much smother. Start with letting out 10 psi and see how you like it. Depending on the terrain, your ground clearance (it will drop) and your availability to air up adjust from there.

I've found that 22 - 18 psi is where I start for driving most conditions and adjust from there as the trail dictates.

Drew

Just came across this http://www.4x4now.com/sfjun96.htm
 
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Davids90toy

Observer
Me and my dad have used BFG's for a very long time and have no problem with. These 33" x 10.50" BFGoodrich Mud Terrain K/M's have proven to be a good choice in both size and performance. Fits great with our lift gives great traction in rain and on the road which is something we need since its also our daily drivers and GREAT off road with slight rubbing but thats our lifts only 2.5 on each truck and 1-2 inch shakles in the rear not sure i didnt help him put them on so.

BFG's would be my frist choice i know that MT/R's are proly a very good tire and there rated the same but i perfer BFGs only because i they last for ever on my light weight P/U
 

FortyMileDesert

Adventurer
Fat_Man said:
Indeed that has been one of the main obstacles for me. I don't have on-board air, and because I haven't felt the need to air down, haven't been willing to spend the money (yet) and have been afraid to air down just riding because there is no guarantee that I will end up somewhere with air. I don't want to drive on pavement too long aired down....though all the time I see cars driving down the road on near-flat tires...so maybe I worry too much....

You don't need on-board-air. Go to Sears and buy a portable 12v compressor for under $35. My first one lasted four years of wheeling twice a month (They will last even longer on stock smaller tires). If you don't trust it - buy two. Keep you engine idling while pumping up the tires. Give the pump about a minute to cool between each tire. I can pump up FOUR 265/75-16s from 20psig to 34psig in about 20 minutes.

I'm guessing that where you're wheeling in Arkansas; you're not climbing steep mountain trails in loose sand covered gravel and rock. Here in northern Nevada I generally go down to about 20psig - That's just about perfect for most situations. If you get into serious rock crawling or lots of sand - even lower pressure is not only better but necessary.

You can drive on the highway for a few miles with the tires at 20psig as long as you keep the speed down to about 40mph.
 
Fat Man-

If you have time and want to try it, even those little department store 12v compressors will get enough pressure in the tire to drive safely to a gas station, if not completely air up.

For the White Rim trip, I have a CO2 tank :).

Llewellyn's article is right on...give it a try in a field or something. You can even drive across your lawn and see a difference in how the turf takes it...

-Sean
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
devinsixtyseven said:
For the White Rim trip, I have a CO2 tank :).
I have a pair of compressors, the ARB for the lockers and the MV-50 that I use for tires. We should be good to go.
 

Wanderlusty

Explorer
FortyMileDesert said:
I'm guessing that where you're wheeling in Arkansas; you're not climbing steep mountain trails in loose sand covered gravel and rock.

Well, maybe nothing that severe, but we have some steep hills, loose gravel, and mud.
 

Wanderlusty

Explorer
DaveInDenver said:
I have a pair of compressors, the ARB for the lockers and the MV-50 that I use for tires. We should be good to go.

I have heard good things about the MV-50. Even tried to find one locally. Lucked out.

As for the WRT (and not to steal the thread) I have some tire ponderances of my own. I need to start a mod thread for the new Taco. I reference the WRT because the Taco is still sportin' the original shoes and need replaced soon both for tread reasons and for capability. I have never heard anyone praise the stockers for being a great tire...

My heart wants the 255/85 MT's...my mind says 265/75 in an AT is probably the better overall choice. Ah, the decisions.....
 

crawler#976

Expedition Leader
...on the topic of compressors, my local CostCo has an MV-50 compressor in stock at $48.00 each. The box states it will air up a 33" tire in 4 minutes. At that price I could have on for each tire and still come out cheaper than my ViAir 400P, but I trust the ViAir to last longer and it's output is higher than the MV's.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
crawler#976 said:
...on the topic of compressors, my local CostCo has an MV-50 compressor in stock at $48.00 each. The box states it will air up a 33" tire in 4 minutes. At that price I could have on for each tire and still come out cheaper than my ViAir 400P, but I trust the ViAir to last longer and it's output is higher than the MV's.
I'm not sure that the Viair 400 & 450 compressors aren't made in the same place as the MV-50. I'll admit that the 420 and 460 seem different, but the 400 and MV-50/MF-1050 sure look similar. The fins, the cylinder head casting. The MV-50 has a square housing around the motor and the location of the output is different, but the threaded holes are similar and the intake and filter are pretty much the same.
 
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Wanderlusty

Explorer
I may start looking for an MV-50 again locally. If I don't find any, some of you guys that have seen them locally....would you mind picking one up for me (pre-pay, of course) but lemme look local again first.

What about a storage tank along with the MV-50? I know some of the guys on the Jeep board had the MV-50 and a small tank they would pump up so you could air up quicker. Worth the space the tank would take up?
 

crawler#976

Expedition Leader
DaveInDenver said:
I'm not sure that the Viair 400 & 450 compressors aren't made in the same place as the MV-50. I'll admit that the 420 and 460 seem different, but the 400 and MV-50/MF-1050 sure look similar. The fins, the cylinder head casting. The MV-50 has a square housing around the motor and the location of the output is different, but the threaded holes are similar and the intake and filter are pretty much the same.

There's are definate diferences in the fit and finish between the two, and the ViAir is quieter in operation - but that could be due to the inlet filter.
 

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