New to me 99 Suburban: 5.7 vortec repairs

[NevadaLover]

Talk about the proverbial can of worms...


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That is what every vortec I have ever done looks when I have taken the intake apart, from the 4.3 to the 7.4, it's the EGR that contributes most of the crap you see inside the manifold! never have seen one clean but we don't eliminate the EGR or any like that, good carb clean spray, a stiff brush and lots of elbow grease will eliminate all the build up!
Make sure You use fel-pro MS98000T gasket set when you put the lower intake back on, DO NOT use the original type gaskets, they are crap and you will be redoing the whole mess in no time!!

The hose you are looking for is the vacuum supply to the heater control valve and I never have found an original replacement so I use vacuum hose to fix the break just like rayra explained!

 

[unabashedpraise]

That parts breakdown shows most of the crappy stuff that should be changed on your cooling system...

#3 should be changed to a regular NPT-hose barb fitting with hose clamp.

#'s 30, 13, and 14 will be brittle and will crack on you. These are available from any FLAPS in the "Help" section.

#4 is a metal tube that runs behind the alternator. This will eventually crack and leak where the bracket is welded on. It can be exchanged for a piece of rubber hose. Put some of that plastic electrical wire loom stuff on it where it looks like it will rub on stuff.

Go ahead and swap out all of the rubber heater hose while you're at it. I personally don't mind the spring style clamps. They keep you from cracking the plastic fittings by over tightening the screw type clamps. You will need a few extra clamps with the mods above.

I would also at least pull the fan shroud and inspect between the a/c condenser and radiator. I usually find this area packed with pine needles, leaves, bugs, rat nests, etc.

Also, there is a larger radiator available, I think it's listed for a 1 ton truck. Same size as the Suburban, but the core is twice as thick. I usually grab that one as it's about the same price. Now that they are only available in aluminum/plastic they are only about $125-150. When they could be had in copper/brass they were $6-700!

Ac system if fairly new, no debris.

Wow. Didn't realize aluminum rads are so expensive! My zj rad was only couple hundred.


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[unabashedpraise]

That is what every vortec I have ever done looks when I have taken the intake apart, from the 4.3 to the 7.4, it's the EGR that contributes most of the crap you see inside the manifold! never have seen one clean but we don't eliminate the EGR or any like that, good carb clean spray, a stiff brush and lots of elbow grease will eliminate all the build up!
Make sure You use fel-pro MS98000T gasket set when you put the lower intake back on, DO NOT use the original type gaskets, they are crap and you will be redoing the whole mess in no time!!

The hose you are looking for is the vacuum supply to the heater control valve and I never have found an original replacement so I use vacuum hose to fix the break just like rayra explained!

Can the egr be tuned out? What would the side effects be?


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[KLAKEBRONCO]

Can the egr be tuned out? What would the side effects be?


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Pretty sure yes it can.
Look into black bear tuning

 

[unabashedpraise]

https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/removal-of-egr-system-performance-gain-or-loss.663150/

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/05/dont-block-or-remove-the-egr-valve-its-saving-you-money/




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[unabashedpraise]

Wow. This looks terrible. I could have taken the bolts out with a nut driver.

Found my oil leak. Intake is going to suck trying to clean.

Any advice on cleaning?

Gloves never work well...

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[BCHauler]

Could you take it to a machine shop and have it hot tanked?


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[rayra]

parts washing station is ~$100 at Harbor Freight. PLus a barrel of solvent. For what you are doing, the amount of parts to be cleaned, it would be well worth it.
You'd likely spend $40+ anyway in degreasers and make a huge mess, anyway.

Mess looks worse than it is. Looks like it was never cleaned up.

 

[unabashedpraise]

Right now they are sitting in some hot Dawn soapy water. It's all I have at the moment...
Oven cleaner?
Simple green?
I'm going to spend a little time on some cheap cleaners before I go for the parts washer. I think.

I did pull the electrical components off the intake before I dunked it. In not sure what they are. I know there is an air idle control valve, but the others? I'm going to need some new o rings for these things.

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[Pntyrmvr]

Buy a jug of Super Clean. Your hands will even come clean. Scary and safe. Water soluble.


"Talk is cheap. Whiskey costs money."

 

[rayra]

The thing on the right in the first two pics, with the black plastic pacifier looking thing sticking out, covered in carbon, appears to be the idle air solenoid. That moves in and out like a plunger and is used to control your air mix / idle speed, with the throttle body / butterfly in the closed position. The crud makes it balky and makes it difficult for the computer to control the idle. Sometimes they stick. And blowing 'sensor safe' throttle body cleaner in while the idle air solenoid is mounted can make it worse, as the crud gets washed INTO it instead of off it. Clean it and the orifice it came out of and it should be fine.


hot water and simple green and a lot of scrubbing will do, but boy what a mess it will make. If you start mixing cleaning chems be careful not to mix ammonia and chlorine (bleach), or you'll get to re-enact a WWI gas attack

 

[NevadaLover]

Right now they are sitting in some hot Dawn soapy water. It's all I have at the moment...
Oven cleaner?
Simple green?
I'm going to spend a little time on some cheap cleaners before I go for the parts washer. I think.

I did pull the electrical components off the intake before I dunked it. In not sure what they are. I know there is an air idle control valve, but the others? I'm going to need some new o rings for these things.

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The sensor on the left is the throttle position sensor or TPS and rayra is right about the idle air control solenoid or IAC, the sensor in the lower pic is the manifold absolute pressure sensor or MAP, if the o-rings are shot the best thing to do is replace the sensor, they aren't terribly expensive but trying to find o-rings will be a pain, when you reinstall or replace the TPS check youtube for a video on how to do it, it isn't hard at all but if you don't get it on right it will cause hard/no starts and it will run like crap!!

Cleaning is a pain but not overly hard, simple green and hot water will make the manifold sparkle, use a scraper and a wet/dry vac to get all the crud and cooked oil out of valley and around the pushrods then use carbclean to spray the rest and use a rag to wipe it up, and always change the oil and filter afterwards because you can't keep all that crap from falling into the oil pan, it's a good idea to change the oil again after a 100 miles or so just to be safe!

 

[unabashedpraise]

The sensor on the left is the throttle position sensor or TPS and rayra is right about the idle air control solenoid or IAC, the sensor in the lower pic is the manifold absolute pressure sensor or MAP, if the o-rings are shot the best thing to do is replace the sensor, they aren't terribly expensive but trying to find o-rings will be a pain, when you reinstall or replace the TPS check youtube for a video on how to do it, it isn't hard at all but if you don't get it on right it will cause hard/no starts and it will run like crap!!

Cleaning is a pain but not overly hard, simple green and hot water will make the manifold sparkle, use a scraper and a wet/dry vac to get all the crud and cooked oil out of valley and around the pushrods then use carbclean to spray the rest and use a rag to wipe it up, and always change the oil and filter afterwards because you can't keep all that crap from falling into the oil pan, it's a good idea to change the oil again after a 100 miles or so just to be safe!

Finding the rings has been difficult. I think I found the map sensor seal, but only by buying a cheap map sensor.

May have to go to the auto parts store to sift around in the o ring boxes. Might just rtv these things...


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[NevadaLover]

RTV may work on the TPS but if you get the slightest leak on the IAC it will create all kinds of drive-ability issues!

 

[unabashedpraise]

Ok. Admittedly I'm an idiot. I was reading about some quick cleaning methods and put both the upper and lower intake in the dishwasher... With dishwashing soap. Now both parts are oxidized like crazy. What I need to know, ASAP, is if these parts will cleanup properly, or do I need to go to pick and pull for some used parts.

I've tried to do some scrubbing and while some was coming off, I think they would need to be blasted at a minimum. But I'm not sure about that throttle body...


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