Regcabguy
Oil eater.
The new Synergy steering is out and should have been installed at the factory. That and a Thuren/Carli adjustable trackbar work wonders. Dynatrac and carli have balll joints to correct the cheesy AAM units.
New to Overlanding, need tips on building my Ram
- Thread starter NoloJS
- Start date
The new Synergy steering is out and should have been installed at the factory. That and a Thuren/Carli adjustable trackbar work wonders. Dynatrac and carli have balll joints to correct the cheesy AAM units.
All points noted....nothin' much else to say 'bout that.
I have already done Dynatrac Ball joints, Borgeson HD steering box with steering shaft, as well as, the Mopar steering upgrade to the "T" style. I'm hoping that the Carli system will replace whatever is left.
Honestly, overlanding is a fancy term for road-tripping. How rough a road you choose is up to you. If you want to see some places, camp, enjoy yourself, a coleman tent and a Jetta will get you to 95% of the continent. Building a huge tricked out truck is kind of silly if you're just going to hop campgrounds and log tens of thousands of miles at 8mpg.
Its kind of like hunting. My old Marlin 30-30 will kill a deer just as dead as $10k Barrett 50cal The meat will taste the same. The rack will look the same on the wall. The difference is how many "oohs" and "aahs" you get from your friends. If you're looking to kill elephants, that's when you need to break out the big guns.
If the goal is to get out and explore, a reliable vehicle is all you need. If you're looking to spend a week wheeling at Moab and camping wherever you wind up, that's a different story. :Wow1:
There are no dead-set requirements for overlanding, aside from transportation, shelter, food, and water. The details are entirely up to you, based on what you plan on doing.
Its kind of like hunting. My old Marlin 30-30 will kill a deer just as dead as $10k Barrett 50cal The meat will taste the same. The rack will look the same on the wall. The difference is how many "oohs" and "aahs" you get from your friends. If you're looking to kill elephants, that's when you need to break out the big guns.
If the goal is to get out and explore, a reliable vehicle is all you need. If you're looking to spend a week wheeling at Moab and camping wherever you wind up, that's a different story. :Wow1:
There are no dead-set requirements for overlanding, aside from transportation, shelter, food, and water. The details are entirely up to you, based on what you plan on doing.
kraven
Hegelian Scum
It really depends on what you want to do.
It's a good opportunity to fix a lot of the Dodge half measures in your truck, like the popping, the trans (which you've already fixed) and other stuff where they installed cheap components to save a nickel. Make it into a nice solid and useful vehicle without all the cost cutting stuff.
You can do pretty well with tents, hammocks, and a folding table with a portable kitchen.
It's a good opportunity to fix a lot of the Dodge half measures in your truck, like the popping, the trans (which you've already fixed) and other stuff where they installed cheap components to save a nickel. Make it into a nice solid and useful vehicle without all the cost cutting stuff.
You can do pretty well with tents, hammocks, and a folding table with a portable kitchen.
That's EXACTLY what I plan on doing, and not just Moab.
Ozymandias
Observer
I've chosen the 2500 Ram for my Overlander because this Truck is nearly ready to go right from Factory.
No need for a Lift, no Need for Springs unless a heavy camper is used, just install 35" Tires on the stock rims and be done.
This Tricks are very capable right from factory, far better then other vehicle on the market.
No need for a Lift, no Need for Springs unless a heavy camper is used, just install 35" Tires on the stock rims and be done.
This Tricks are very capable right from factory, far better then other vehicle on the market.
gunpainter
Observer
I'm doing my first family overlanding trip here in a tick over 2 weeks, and i'm really looking forward to it. I'm not the hardcore trail crawling, deep mud hole type, but I don't want a wet dirt road to be the end of that adventure. I chose a 2012 Ram Megacab Longhorn Diesel. I call it the couch on wheels. A 21' long truck that weighs 4 tons isn't going to be the perfect off roader. Most of the time it'll end up a pavement princess. My kids love the truck as much as I do, and I have the confidence to go pretty much anywhere in it, and I can drive just over 640 miles between tank fills.
I was gonna go all crazy with it, lockers, wheels, winches, bumpers, lights, enough gear to assign me permanent status as a gear queer. I decided to keep it simple, keep the gear that I need to make the trip comfortable, because I wasn't going to push the limitations of the truck far. There's only so many roads your allowed to drive on on forest service areas anyway.
Next years trip to Alaska is a completely different story on how I plan to have the truck setup.
I'm rambling, my way of contributing nothing useful just to subscribe to your thread.
Branden
I was gonna go all crazy with it, lockers, wheels, winches, bumpers, lights, enough gear to assign me permanent status as a gear queer. I decided to keep it simple, keep the gear that I need to make the trip comfortable, because I wasn't going to push the limitations of the truck far. There's only so many roads your allowed to drive on on forest service areas anyway.
Next years trip to Alaska is a completely different story on how I plan to have the truck setup.
I'm rambling, my way of contributing nothing useful just to subscribe to your thread.
Branden
I think your on a good path with carli. I have a 2011 2500 on a carli pintop, carli bjs, synergy steering, full leafs (sitting in the garage) and metal cloak control arms on order.
BLUF reccomendation: carli pintop, coils, bjs, trackbar, diff guard. Synergy steering. Full size spare (or 2)
Determine if you need arms. Determine if you need leafs. Determine if you need lighting
For suspension I think pintop will be fine for what you've stated. The bilstiens will be more once you factor in towers and I hear are better than the pintops when you get in the whoops. If you plan on hauling through the desert then maybe the bilstiens make sense. With my pintops my truck is happy doing 60mph through Forrest service and double track roads. I've hit 90 on the big open graded dirt roads with out realizing it. Where 2.65/3.0/3.5 shine is pounding through the desert. I would love to run the unchained kit but don't have the terrain to really use it. I barley put the 2.5s to work where I am but love the street ride they afford. The good about carli is that you can build as you go. The pintops and above have good resale value as well.
I would dump the money you save with pintops back into the front end. Good ball joints, track bar, and steering I think are a must. My steering tres were all shot within 20k. The new synergy setup is really sweet and beefy but I've heard they are having some distribution issues. If you want a steering RIGHT NOW give Strapt Performance a call. They have a pretty trick set up they can build but it's about 1k. Ball joints, carli or dynatrack.
Depending on what's clunking take a look at your control arms. I opted for metal cloak as theit dual durometer bushing intrigued me. If their claims are true, it should give the flex of a John join but the nvh of a bushing. As my dd this was important to me. It may be worth a look if you are doing long drives on your trips. Carli and thuren also offer some proven arms but I felt they were a little overkill for my set up. Synergy, thuren, and now carli (kinda) all offer long arms if it's something your interested in. If you do long arms, your shocks will need to be valved to it. Doing suspension right with a dodge is expensive.
I bought full leafs as they supposedly make some of the biggest difference in ride. I'm unloaded 90% of the time and when I tow, it's my rock crawler on a load leveling hitch. If I sag too much I'll get air bags and cradles. If you are running with 1k in the bed all the time, you could check out the heavy duty springs. This really is dictated by your load as already stated.
Lighting is something you may consider. I hated my lights and did a hid conversion which is ok. Once you get off the beaten path it gets really dark. If your looking at lights buy once cry once. I'd look at Baja Designs. I've run cheap 8in hids, cheap led bars and they are exactly what you pay for. My 30in in cjc brackets looks really cool but only throws usable light as far as my head lights. I don't know the answer to lighting but my first call will be to Strapt Performance or CJC Offroad when the funds allow.
Misc items to consider: front diff guard (carli or ruffstuff) is a cheap investment from a really bad day. Full size spare. It's going in the bed at 35s. Stick with a 17in rim and try to find a way to fit that in with your packing, if you can, depending on how far you go, 2 may be a good idea. Check out HRT Offroads build thread. They built an overland rig that the drove from Canada down to Baja Mexico and back.
Some of the builds on here are amazing. Building a full size dodge is fun, but expensive. My advice is to put the money into the components that will get you out and back safely first, and then look to the cool guy bedracks, rtts, and fridges.
BLUF reccomendation: carli pintop, coils, bjs, trackbar, diff guard. Synergy steering. Full size spare (or 2)
Determine if you need arms. Determine if you need leafs. Determine if you need lighting
For suspension I think pintop will be fine for what you've stated. The bilstiens will be more once you factor in towers and I hear are better than the pintops when you get in the whoops. If you plan on hauling through the desert then maybe the bilstiens make sense. With my pintops my truck is happy doing 60mph through Forrest service and double track roads. I've hit 90 on the big open graded dirt roads with out realizing it. Where 2.65/3.0/3.5 shine is pounding through the desert. I would love to run the unchained kit but don't have the terrain to really use it. I barley put the 2.5s to work where I am but love the street ride they afford. The good about carli is that you can build as you go. The pintops and above have good resale value as well.
I would dump the money you save with pintops back into the front end. Good ball joints, track bar, and steering I think are a must. My steering tres were all shot within 20k. The new synergy setup is really sweet and beefy but I've heard they are having some distribution issues. If you want a steering RIGHT NOW give Strapt Performance a call. They have a pretty trick set up they can build but it's about 1k. Ball joints, carli or dynatrack.
Depending on what's clunking take a look at your control arms. I opted for metal cloak as theit dual durometer bushing intrigued me. If their claims are true, it should give the flex of a John join but the nvh of a bushing. As my dd this was important to me. It may be worth a look if you are doing long drives on your trips. Carli and thuren also offer some proven arms but I felt they were a little overkill for my set up. Synergy, thuren, and now carli (kinda) all offer long arms if it's something your interested in. If you do long arms, your shocks will need to be valved to it. Doing suspension right with a dodge is expensive.
I bought full leafs as they supposedly make some of the biggest difference in ride. I'm unloaded 90% of the time and when I tow, it's my rock crawler on a load leveling hitch. If I sag too much I'll get air bags and cradles. If you are running with 1k in the bed all the time, you could check out the heavy duty springs. This really is dictated by your load as already stated.
Lighting is something you may consider. I hated my lights and did a hid conversion which is ok. Once you get off the beaten path it gets really dark. If your looking at lights buy once cry once. I'd look at Baja Designs. I've run cheap 8in hids, cheap led bars and they are exactly what you pay for. My 30in in cjc brackets looks really cool but only throws usable light as far as my head lights. I don't know the answer to lighting but my first call will be to Strapt Performance or CJC Offroad when the funds allow.
Misc items to consider: front diff guard (carli or ruffstuff) is a cheap investment from a really bad day. Full size spare. It's going in the bed at 35s. Stick with a 17in rim and try to find a way to fit that in with your packing, if you can, depending on how far you go, 2 may be a good idea. Check out HRT Offroads build thread. They built an overland rig that the drove from Canada down to Baja Mexico and back.
Some of the builds on here are amazing. Building a full size dodge is fun, but expensive. My advice is to put the money into the components that will get you out and back safely first, and then look to the cool guy bedracks, rtts, and fridges.
Ozymandias
Observer
It's interesting to see what Americans understand with the word "overlanding" it seems more to be a challenge then traveling remote areas.
As an Overlander I do not need to go the last half mile with the truck whatever it costs - I can do that by foot.
And for an real overlandertruck it is definitely the best to go with OEM Parts wherever it is possible. Because with a faulty Aftermarket Part it is real difficult to get a replacement far away from home, sometimes these parts are even not made anymore. And then? Burn the truck?
We so travel not go to the deepest mudhole or the steepest tracks. Go safe, go long.
As an Overlander I do not need to go the last half mile with the truck whatever it costs - I can do that by foot.
And for an real overlandertruck it is definitely the best to go with OEM Parts wherever it is possible. Because with a faulty Aftermarket Part it is real difficult to get a replacement far away from home, sometimes these parts are even not made anymore. And then? Burn the truck?
We so travel not go to the deepest mudhole or the steepest tracks. Go safe, go long.
Ozymandias
Observer
For what? Alaska isn't any different then Utah or something just colder. Hundreds of miles of gravelroad and that's it. Absolutely no need go molest your couch on wheels.
Alaska isn't the end of the world - from my sight.
It's definitely not the end, but it's pretty near the edge.
gunpainter
Observer
I understand it's not the end of the world, but when it comes to camping, it's a bit wilder. I'll want a self recovery system in case i've gotta get myself out of a bind, or someone else, need more food, water, personal items, as well as a rooftop tent (keep out of reach of bears). I wasn't talking about getting lockers, lifts, and giant tires for the Alaska trip.
Your profile says your from Switzerland. I've spent a bit of time in Switzerland, can't wait to take my kids there, I have family there about 30min from Zurich airport. The swiss are lovely folks, and it's a country that's freakishly green in winter, but trying to understand Americans is something y'all should probly stop trying to do. Most Americans tend to do things just because we can, not because we need to, or might need to. We're odd from an outsiders perspective, but from my POV it's just the American way.
Branden
Ozymandias
Observer
Hi Brandon
We do a lot of traveling, last year we spent 3 Months in Nordamerika, check ist out here www.nordamerika2015.blogspot.ch
We did Iceland too 3 years ago and we go to the Arctic Circle and beyond every Winter in Sweden to the Polarwinter in absolute darkness and great cold.
Have been to the countrys in north africa too any many other places.
But you are absolutely right about packing proper gear for the alaska trip, the truck is fine from factory for this but you need self recovery gear.
Also take care for some Medics for Emercency, distances to the next drugstore are long.
Oh, and i like the american way, last year was the first holiday ever i wont to go home, you have so much personal freedom over there, unbelievable from European sight. We come back for sure, and will stay longer then.
Right now i build a new camper cbin for my truck that is better isolated and way lighter then the alloy box i had now.
Check it out here http://www.viermalvier.de/ubbthreads.php/topics/623000/all/Ozys_RAM_2500;_Projekt_Polarfu.html
Best wishes
Ozy
We do a lot of traveling, last year we spent 3 Months in Nordamerika, check ist out here www.nordamerika2015.blogspot.ch
We did Iceland too 3 years ago and we go to the Arctic Circle and beyond every Winter in Sweden to the Polarwinter in absolute darkness and great cold.
Have been to the countrys in north africa too any many other places.
But you are absolutely right about packing proper gear for the alaska trip, the truck is fine from factory for this but you need self recovery gear.
Also take care for some Medics for Emercency, distances to the next drugstore are long.
Oh, and i like the american way, last year was the first holiday ever i wont to go home, you have so much personal freedom over there, unbelievable from European sight. We come back for sure, and will stay longer then.
Right now i build a new camper cbin for my truck that is better isolated and way lighter then the alloy box i had now.
Check it out here http://www.viermalvier.de/ubbthreads.php/topics/623000/all/Ozys_RAM_2500;_Projekt_Polarfu.html
Best wishes
Ozy
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Anything in the front end could be causing the popping sound.
Trac bar bushings
control arm bushings
tie rod ends
shock bushings
bolts not being tight enough
ovaled out bolt holes from bolts not being tight enough
front axle u-joints (use the Spicer/Dana triple lip seal ones)
unit bearings
hell, even bad differential oil (sheered) can cause the rear LSD to click when turning.
Best thing to do IMHO: Have someone you TRUST, get in truck & turn the wheel back & forth & see if you hear it or see it, if not, start grabbing & shaking stuff & try to duplicate the sound. Good luck.
I had to sink $5k in parts & labor into our Power Wagon, while it was still under warranty, so, i feel your pain.
Trac bar bushings
control arm bushings
tie rod ends
shock bushings
bolts not being tight enough
ovaled out bolt holes from bolts not being tight enough
front axle u-joints (use the Spicer/Dana triple lip seal ones)
unit bearings
hell, even bad differential oil (sheered) can cause the rear LSD to click when turning.
Best thing to do IMHO: Have someone you TRUST, get in truck & turn the wheel back & forth & see if you hear it or see it, if not, start grabbing & shaking stuff & try to duplicate the sound. Good luck.
I had to sink $5k in parts & labor into our Power Wagon, while it was still under warranty, so, i feel your pain.
Last edited:
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