No Wave, No Problem: Vermillion Cliffs Report

DVD

Adventurer
We just returned from a great 4-day, 3 night trip to the Vermillion Cliffs area. This was our first time offroad in the area. Of course, we wanted to see The Wave, so we got to Kanab the night before, so we could enter the lottery. As expected, we didn't win permits for either Coyote Buttes North (home of the wave) or South, but there's so much of scenic, cultural, and just plain old 4-wheeling interest that I couldn't imagine the trip going better.

Usually my wife and I go on these adventure trips alone, but this time we invited another couple, good friends. We've done plenty of hikes together (Grand Canyon, Havasupai Falls, Zion), so they are experienced hikers, but they weren't campers (they are now) and not really off-roaders. That a concern, but the planning came together for a great trip.

Day 1
We got to the Kanab BLM office at 8:00 to enter the lottery for passes to the Coyote Buttes areas. Over 100 people entered the lottery for the 10 passes that the BLM allots.
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The start of our "wilderness" adventure

I researched the trip by reading the Kelsey book Hiking and Exploring the Paria River. He's very critical of BLM policies concerning The Wave, and I agree that the process is somehow flawed. If you accept the premise that it's good policy establish a strict 20-person per day limit, then the details for adminstering that, with online lotteries and bouncing ping pong balls for walk-ins is great. But after the lottery experience, I was actually kind of glad we ended up going on our own to more remote, less accessible areas.
Getting to the fun stuff, exploring Vermillion Cliffs, our first area of interest was "the Nautilus," a curving, flowing rock formation carved out by water flow.

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Looking toward the bottom of Nautilus

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Ascending Nautilus

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Top of Nautilus

After the Nautilus, we were near the Hoodoos (just off of highway 89), so we hiked in there.

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Vermillion Cliffs Hoodoos

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Hoodoos sprouting

After the hoodoos, we headed into the wilderness area, to an area known as "White Pockets," where we set up camp for the remainder of the trip. Most of the reports I read about the area described camping and trailhead at the bottom of a steep, sandy hill, with alternate parking at the top of the hill. The sand must have gotten deeper because there were a handful of campers at the top and none at the bottom. I was a little concerned about driving down (actually the getting back up was the concern) to the nice site at the bottom. But that was a concern for another day (described later). We were the only ones at the lower site all 3 nights.

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Our campsite

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Exploring the White Pocket after getting camp set

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Relaxing after a good first day

The base camp concept worked well. We could really see the "different moods" of the White Pockets over the days we were there. And there is lots to see while driving to other spots. We parked my friend's truck and used the Land Rover to explore the following days.

Day 2
We quickly explored the upper portion of the White Pockets after ascending the steep sandy hill. I'm no photographer, but I've read reports where they bemoan the lack of contrast from clear blue skies. So I'll apologize for the lack of contrast. I wish I would have had some counter for how often somebody exclaimed "wow." If I had a nickel for every instance, I'd be rich.

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Beautiful tree in the middle of the rock formation

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Incredible color contrast

This day was exploring the northeast quadrant, roughly, of the Sand Hills.
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Bigfoot panel

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Hole in the Rock

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Pottery shards - don't worry, we left them

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Lots of gates for cattle grazing - they are so cool

At the end of the day and back at camp, we had warm showers and cold beers. I packed 4 of those 2.5 gal solar showers, and we laid them on the slickrock before we left in the morning. After dinner, I headed back into White Pockets for some amazing sunset views.


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(Continued on next reply)
 

DVD

Adventurer
Day 3
Yesterday, we had some concern about running out of ice (gotta have cold beers after hiking), so came up with a plan to head back to highway 89 for today's explorations, so we could get ice. It turned out we still had frozen gallons on day 4, so we didn't need ice after all, but kept with the day's itinerary of exploring locations known as Edmairs Secret and Cobra Arch, both on the Utah side.

The drive to the nominal trailhead (find a place to park when the road ends) for Edmairs Secret had some fun/challenging deep sand sections. I'm much more comfortable driving in sand after this trip. Then we hiked a couple miles out in deep sand. We were close to Edmairs Secret, but I'm not sure we found it. We did find our own "secret" place (secret because we accidentally got there while trying to get to someplace else), with interesting brain rock formations and beautiful views over Buckskin Gulch (we could see the Wirepass parking area in the distance). One interesting thing about this really remote area was to see the "fins" on the rock layers. I imagine these delicate pieces have been stepped on (by humans or the many cows in the area) at the more visited places.

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Wildlife on the way to Dutchie's Secret

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We joking referred to this place as Dutchie's Secret

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The "fins" look like a pathway

We were kind of near the Middle Trailhead for Buckskin Gulch and decided to try to find Cobra Arch, knowing it would be a couple hours hike just to get there. Directions were nominal. I think Massey's book assumes you have topo maps and such. Anyhow, we hiked for a couple hours, with cairn-indicated rock scrambling to navigate getting up and down the escarpment. Saw lots of beautiful scenery. Got lots of good exercise. But after 2 1/2 hrs, we still didn't see the arch. We think we were too low on the escarpment. We only had about 3 1/2 hrs of daylight remaining, so unfortunately returned without seeing Cobra Arch.

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Hoodoos on the way to Cobra Arch

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Getting near dusk when we got to the top of the escarpment. We were tired but enjoyed the view

Day 4
This was the pack-up day. But we took one more hike into White Pockets. I took more photos because we had some nice clouds.


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Rock moving across the face of the brainrock?

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Trucks are packed and ready to head back home

The big suspense was whether my buddy's GMC with off-road package would make it up the steep sand from our camping area. He went first, so I could pull him back down if necessary. The good news is that I finally got to use the traction mats that I've had since the beginning of the year. It was really a perfect little event that let us feel good about getting him unstuck but didn't take longer than 1/2 an hour get the traction devices down, dig out a bit, and then drive out. I recall advice to tie the mats to the vehicle, and that would have been good. It took a few minutes of poking in the sand to find the mats and then dig them out after he got out.

On the well graded road before getting to pavement on highway 89A, we went past the condor release area and stopped there to air up. I typically don't air down in the LR3 on rocks, but I think it helped a lot in the sand. If you can significantly increase your contact area that's gotta help in the soft stuff. The only problem was that the GMC had been stuck in 4wd low. This wasn't a big concern on the trails. We were hoping that it had something to do the his tpms system barking due to low tire pressure, but the transfer case wouldn't unstick even after we aired him up. Turns out it's a fairly common problem, and OnStar sent a tow truck pick them up at Jacob's Lake. We left them at Jacobs Lake and headed south on 89A back to Phoenix. Of course, we had to check for condors when we got to the bridge.

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We saw 3 condors on the Navajo Bridge trusses (on highway 89) on the way home; one flew in and lit on the bridge while we were there

As always, I feel that I could spend 10x longer exploring the area, but also reminded how fortunate we are to be able to do this sort of thing. We'll just have to go there again.
I have more photos, in higher resolution, in a G+ album at https://plus.google.com/photos/101677970851250361785/albums/6010051524532071473
 

mph

Expedition Leader
Well done...White Pocket and V cliffs are great...Looks like you had a grand adventure!
 

Fireman78

Expedition Leader
Planning a trip like this in the fall. Excellent report. Thanks. This will help me out. :beer:

Sent from my GT-P7310 using Tapatalk 2
 

DVD

Adventurer
Our camping friends from Utah informed me that there was a close call at The Wave on the day we would have been there (if we had won). From SL Trib: "A California man was rescued Sunday after falling from a cliff and languishing for two days without water or treatment for his diabetes at The Wave rock formation in southern Utah."
http://www.sltrib.com/sltrib/world/57906296-68/wave-alldredge-arizona-hiker.html.csp
I hope he pulls through. If our number had come up, I wonder if we might have seen him? Weird to think that he was probably watching the same ping-pong ball lottery we did and had his number selected.
Come to think of it, we did see a helicopter at dusk on Saturday.
 

mph

Expedition Leader
wow...the Wave has had its share of misery the last year...



Our camping friends from Utah informed me that there was a close call at The Wave on the day we would have been there (if we had won). From SL Trib: "A California man was rescued Sunday after falling from a cliff and languishing for two days without water or treatment for his diabetes at The Wave rock formation in southern Utah."
http://www.sltrib.com/sltrib/world/57906296-68/wave-alldredge-arizona-hiker.html.csp
I hope he pulls through. If our number had come up, I wonder if we might have seen him? Weird to think that he was probably watching the same ping-pong ball lottery we did and had his number selected.
Come to think of it, we did see a helicopter at dusk on Saturday.
 

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