Noobie - truck question
- Thread starter Ronanmd1
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bob91yj
Resident **************
Not sure on the other brands but you can't get a 3500 SRW in a crew cab short bed configuration for GM products.
I have an '08 Tundra and family's construction company has run nothing by Cummins pickups since the mid-90's and have quite a bit of experience driving all the generations. As an aside, my Dad hates his newest one compared to his previous one.
Those trucks are worked to death, and IMHO, are complete overkill for the OP stated needs.
They are also WAY more expensive than a modestly equipped 1/2-ton. In fact, my Dad's most recent diesel Ram (also an '08) cost literally DOUBLE what I paid for my Tundra. You could nearly buy the 1/2-ton, the camper, and the boat for just the price of the 3/4-ton diesel.
Compare the running gear of a a 3/4 ton (not the manufacturer's ratings) to a Tundra. The Tundra has a 10.5" rear axle, front wheel bearings the size of an F250, 14" brakes, etc.
If you are certain that your plans may change in the future, it may be smarter to buy the 3/4-ton /1-ton. But IMHO, it is completely overkill for a lightweight poppup. The guy I bought my camper from was using a 1997 F150 and had accumulated over 180K miles--and believe it or not, the pickup had not split in half... .
Those trucks are worked to death, and IMHO, are complete overkill for the OP stated needs.
They are also WAY more expensive than a modestly equipped 1/2-ton. In fact, my Dad's most recent diesel Ram (also an '08) cost literally DOUBLE what I paid for my Tundra. You could nearly buy the 1/2-ton, the camper, and the boat for just the price of the 3/4-ton diesel.
Compare the running gear of a a 3/4 ton (not the manufacturer's ratings) to a Tundra. The Tundra has a 10.5" rear axle, front wheel bearings the size of an F250, 14" brakes, etc.
If you are certain that your plans may change in the future, it may be smarter to buy the 3/4-ton /1-ton. But IMHO, it is completely overkill for a lightweight poppup. The guy I bought my camper from was using a 1997 F150 and had accumulated over 180K miles--and believe it or not, the pickup had not split in half... .
MINO
Adventurer
Maybe I missed in this thread, but not all manufacturers are using the same SAE standards. The new ratings are supposed to take affect for 2013 models. Toyota started using them in 2011, thus lowering the weight capacities:
http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2010/08/toyota-lowers-trailering-ratings-gains-credibility.html
The crewmax was hit the hardest. The weight penalty and shorter bed lead me to the dual cab. The cabin isn't terribly smaller but I am removing the rear seats and adding a rack.
http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2010/08/toyota-lowers-trailering-ratings-gains-credibility.html
The crewmax was hit the hardest. The weight penalty and shorter bed lead me to the dual cab. The cabin isn't terribly smaller but I am removing the rear seats and adding a rack.
Redline
Likes to Drive and Ride
There are some very valid points made above about starting with enough truck, or buying more truck than you think you will need. Like many of you, I also have some experience from which to draw, and my opinion is tuned-up as I'm again using/driving my old F350 after a few year hiatus.
I still have one of those very stout SRW diesel truck; 1996 F350 crew cab 4x4, 4.10:1, 5-speed manual. It was purchased new and has been used both hard and soft, loaded and empty, on & off highway. And before that truck a couple Dodge/Cummins rigs, and before that a few half-ton pickups (International, Ford, Dodge). While I love my old-school F350 diesel, it will carry and/or pull a substantial load, and there are few old (tractors) trucks I would rather have, I do think the original poster's question was about new truck shopping. Sometimes you just want/need to buy a new truck and that changes the discussion quite a bit. I was there just last year, shopping for a new pickup, and didn't want to buy a new diesel even though I'm a huge proponent of diesel, of course I still had/have my old F350.
When it comes to camper hauling something that is sometimes missed is bed length and wheelbase, which can make a big positive difference, but also offers negatives when it comes to overall length, turning radius, daily-driving. My 8' bed F350 has not only plenty of bed length, but plenty of length froward of the rear axle. My new crew cab Tundra has a very short 5.5' bed, with very little space forward of the rear axle. In my mind this is the biggest negative for the stated application of slide-in camper hauling (not nearly the same as towing). If I was buying a pickup only/primarily to be a camper hauler, a regular cab 8' bed truck would be my #1 choice, and I did consider one in 2011. Though like most buyers I want a new truck to be a nice daily-driver too, and to do everything (within reason) a pickup can do.
Agreed, looking at and understanding the specs is important. Price was part of the reason I didn't buy a new diesel, but not the only reason, as the bar continues to be raised in many areas of modern life, and truck capability is one of them.
Engine: Hardly worth discussing these days... '93 Dodge/Cummins made 400 lb-ft and 160 horsepower (w/ 5-speed and 4.10:1), and nobody thought it didn't have enough juice to do some serious work. New Tundra, Ford EcoBoost (or choose another) gasoline engines make amazing torque (400+) and much more horsepower than my old-school '93 Cummins example. [I'm not arguing against diesel, I still love them, though I like the older ones with less emissions add-ons much more.]
Ring gear: Yep, the new Tundra has a slightly larger ring gear than my '96 F350.
Brakes: 07+ Tundra brakes are far superior to the brakes on my F350.
Suspension: This is likely the area where lighter-duty new trucks need the most support, but also the area that is most easily upgraded. But better-riding suspensions that might need enhancements for heavy hauling are not only a "half-ton" thing... Going from my super stout (and stiff) '93 Dodge/Cummins to a '95 Dodge/Cummins the rear suspension capability (and empty ride quality) were night-and-day different, and either an improvement or not depending on your perspective.
Frame: Frame strength is sometimes mentioned, but other than the most severe service, I'm not really concerned about the frame on a newer "half-ton" truck not handling a maximum load for thousands of miles.
So unless my '93 & '95 Cummins or '96 F350 were grossly incapable when new/stock, I think a modern 150-series truck can do lots of work. Maybe not as much, or the same, but still lots. As always, the driver/ owner has much to do with the performance and longevity of the chosen platform.
Cheers my fellow truck enthusiasts.
Redline
I still have one of those very stout SRW diesel truck; 1996 F350 crew cab 4x4, 4.10:1, 5-speed manual. It was purchased new and has been used both hard and soft, loaded and empty, on & off highway. And before that truck a couple Dodge/Cummins rigs, and before that a few half-ton pickups (International, Ford, Dodge). While I love my old-school F350 diesel, it will carry and/or pull a substantial load, and there are few old (tractors) trucks I would rather have, I do think the original poster's question was about new truck shopping. Sometimes you just want/need to buy a new truck and that changes the discussion quite a bit. I was there just last year, shopping for a new pickup, and didn't want to buy a new diesel even though I'm a huge proponent of diesel, of course I still had/have my old F350.
When it comes to camper hauling something that is sometimes missed is bed length and wheelbase, which can make a big positive difference, but also offers negatives when it comes to overall length, turning radius, daily-driving. My 8' bed F350 has not only plenty of bed length, but plenty of length froward of the rear axle. My new crew cab Tundra has a very short 5.5' bed, with very little space forward of the rear axle. In my mind this is the biggest negative for the stated application of slide-in camper hauling (not nearly the same as towing). If I was buying a pickup only/primarily to be a camper hauler, a regular cab 8' bed truck would be my #1 choice, and I did consider one in 2011. Though like most buyers I want a new truck to be a nice daily-driver too, and to do everything (within reason) a pickup can do.
snip...
Compare the running gear of a a 3/4 ton (not the manufacturer's ratings) to a Tundra. The Tundra has a 10.5" rear axle, front wheel bearings the size of an F250, 14" brakes, etc.
If you are certain that your plans may change in the future, it may be smarter to buy the 3/4-ton /1-ton. But IMHO, it is completely overkill for a lightweight poppup. The guy I bought my camper from was using a 1997 F150 and had accumulated over 180K miles--and believe it or not, the pickup had not split in half... .
Agreed, looking at and understanding the specs is important. Price was part of the reason I didn't buy a new diesel, but not the only reason, as the bar continues to be raised in many areas of modern life, and truck capability is one of them.
Engine: Hardly worth discussing these days... '93 Dodge/Cummins made 400 lb-ft and 160 horsepower (w/ 5-speed and 4.10:1), and nobody thought it didn't have enough juice to do some serious work. New Tundra, Ford EcoBoost (or choose another) gasoline engines make amazing torque (400+) and much more horsepower than my old-school '93 Cummins example. [I'm not arguing against diesel, I still love them, though I like the older ones with less emissions add-ons much more.]
Ring gear: Yep, the new Tundra has a slightly larger ring gear than my '96 F350.
Brakes: 07+ Tundra brakes are far superior to the brakes on my F350.
Suspension: This is likely the area where lighter-duty new trucks need the most support, but also the area that is most easily upgraded. But better-riding suspensions that might need enhancements for heavy hauling are not only a "half-ton" thing... Going from my super stout (and stiff) '93 Dodge/Cummins to a '95 Dodge/Cummins the rear suspension capability (and empty ride quality) were night-and-day different, and either an improvement or not depending on your perspective.
Frame: Frame strength is sometimes mentioned, but other than the most severe service, I'm not really concerned about the frame on a newer "half-ton" truck not handling a maximum load for thousands of miles.
So unless my '93 & '95 Cummins or '96 F350 were grossly incapable when new/stock, I think a modern 150-series truck can do lots of work. Maybe not as much, or the same, but still lots. As always, the driver/ owner has much to do with the performance and longevity of the chosen platform.
Cheers my fellow truck enthusiasts.
Redline
Last edited:
Long Distance Rider
New member
Buy the best and cry once....
I just thought of another thing you might want to consider in buying a small or light duty truck. My 3500 SRW 4 door Dodge weighs 7700 lbs with my wife and two dogs setting inside with a full tank of fuel.....you don't want to hit me with a small truck. A lot of the new high fuel mileage cars and trucks are pretty lightly built to attain the economy they advertise. Besides the economy, make sure whatever you buy is built well enough to protect you and your family just in case you have an altercation with an old Dodge truck.
Mike
I just thought of another thing you might want to consider in buying a small or light duty truck. My 3500 SRW 4 door Dodge weighs 7700 lbs with my wife and two dogs setting inside with a full tank of fuel.....you don't want to hit me with a small truck. A lot of the new high fuel mileage cars and trucks are pretty lightly built to attain the economy they advertise. Besides the economy, make sure whatever you buy is built well enough to protect you and your family just in case you have an altercation with an old Dodge truck.
Mike
In an effort to push the scale in the other direction... I have a 4cyl standard everything, regular cab 2007 tacoma and got an 82' FWC fleet model last year. Replaced the bumpstops with timbrens and the suspensions works as well as it always did. Drives the same as it did when I last helped a friend move to a new apartment. My best guess is that I am right around GVVR, and a little over if I bring the girlfriend along. I've driven down many a BUMPY road with no problems. Of course I take it really slow. Obviously can't accelerate as much going up hill and when in the mountains I might have to drop down to 45 or 50, but the rpms never go over 2500.
Not saying I don't wish I had 4wd and the beefier suspension that comes with it.. but then my mileage would suck. I'm getting 19/20 mpg with the camper on it.. sounds like everyone else is getting less than 15. I'd have to ride the bus or walk to work if I was getting that kind of mileage. Much less have any money left over to travel.
I also don't get the infatuation with the (double size/crewcab size) trucks. They take a lot of weight from your GVVR.. take up half your bed length.. leaving very little to nothing left for your camper. I can kind of understand if you have kids... but I can't afford those either. ;]
Not saying I don't wish I had 4wd and the beefier suspension that comes with it.. but then my mileage would suck. I'm getting 19/20 mpg with the camper on it.. sounds like everyone else is getting less than 15. I'd have to ride the bus or walk to work if I was getting that kind of mileage. Much less have any money left over to travel.
I also don't get the infatuation with the (double size/crewcab size) trucks. They take a lot of weight from your GVVR.. take up half your bed length.. leaving very little to nothing left for your camper. I can kind of understand if you have kids... but I can't afford those either. ;]
That depends on the 2500 model you buy. Many 3/4 ton truck manufacturers have a HD 3/4 ton that is basically the same as the one ton just with different springs. Also disk brakes are not necessarily better. For holding power of parking brakes many drums are far superior, and would be my choice if I regularly parked on hills. That said I normally choose disks on the rear because the maintenance is so much easier.