travelingtaco
New member
Here is a write up on Northwest Metal Products Toyota Tacoma Auxiliary Fuel Transfer Tank part number TP-7 on a 2004 Toyota Tacoma 4wd extended cab 5spd 3.4L.
The install took about a solid 6 hours for various reasons. It would of taken about 3 but there was obstacles to overcome which I wasn't prepared for. Lack of a lift was the major one. With a lift could of easily done it in 3 hours.
The pictures are of everything installed. Will go through the whole install step by step.
I was fortunate that Wes at Northwest Metal Products had a TP-7 in stock ready to go installation kit and all. Since I was only about a hour and a half away in Lacey WA I drove down there on a Saturday and picked her up. Wes at NWMP was gracious enough to meet me there on his day off so I could pick it up. His willing to do so let me know that this is a great customer friendly company and he would prove it many times over. More on that down on this write up.
After picking it up around 9 am I stopped at a local muffler shop here in Lacey and had a custom tail pipe made to go around the tank. With a little assistance from me the tech mocked up the tank and built the tail pipe with a side exit turn down. He was cognizant of the tank and keeping away from it for safety reasons of course. Also removed my curt trailer hitch since a 4xinnovations bent up with a class 3 hitch is in the near future.
Then it was back to my garage to start the install.
Tools needed:
Socket and ratchet set
4 Volt palm drill if owned
Dyke to cut hose or hose cutting pliers
9/16 box wrench
Pry bar
wire strippers/crimpers
3/8 extension 6" or bigger (for mounting bolts)
Measuring tape (if needed)
Your spare tire crank tool satchel
Extra wire for fuel pump ground
Drill bit set
Extra zip ties
(Optional) Illuminated rocker switch (comes with toggle went with illuminated to remind me pump is on)
Extra female terminals for switch (toggle is screw type not slide on)
Sharpie
Dremel with extra cut off wheel for metal
Drill preferably high speed one
Gallon of gas to flush particles in aux tank during manufacturing before mounted. (make sure flushed and strained with a rag if going to reuse fuel when drained).
Can of black spray paint to touch up places if scratched during install
Small channel locks of butterfly clamp removers
Small amount of dish liquid for installing rollover valve on top of aux tank
Worm clamp for fuel pump
Bent hose pic would be useful if needed (to loosen stock hoses)
Most and most important, PATIENCE/B]
*The whole system is a ready to go install for model tacos with a filler neck with one breather/return coming off the top of the filler neck. If you have 3 lines like mine I explain what need to happen below.*
First thing to do was to use the spare tire hoist to bring the tank up into position to mark the 4 points for the bolts on the cross member. This was difficult doing it by myself since the tank teetered. Had to hold the tank still and crank the hoist at the same time while I was on my back on the ground.
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After getting the drill points for the tank bolts then dropped the tank back down and drilled holes. The instructions that came with the kit let you know what size bit to use. After drilling my holes it was time to fasten the lines so when you bring it back up to bolt in you can just run them to there respective places. Do Not Cut Any Lines Yet! I also installed the rollover valve during this time to. Wes at NWMP recommended using a little dish liquid to lube around the surface so it doesn't split the grommet over time. Dudes been doing fuel tanks for 30+ years so followed his instruction.
Important
Now. Before you order your tank make sure you look at your stock filler neck. If it has 1 return/breather line (usually 1 thick one) coming down from the top then you wont need what I'm about to show you. Let Wes know this. The kit came with a smaller version of this "t" fitting that plumbs into the single line on if you have indeed a single line on your filler.
This is what your rig needs if you have 3 lines coming off filler neck
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/829/img1621w.jpg/]
I tried to install supplied "T" on the 3 line and it was to big for the two smaller lines. I went down to autoclone and got two fuel line "t's" thinking I'll be ok just have to fab my own supply route. If you notice in the pic directly above the "t" has two inlets on top. The bottom is for fuel supply and the top goes to return.
I initially tried tried to accomplish this setup with 2 "t's" (1/4" and 5/16") from autoclone like this...
This setup worked for about a day. No CEL. Then the CEL came on. Had to wait til monday to call Wes and tell him what was going on with codes P 0446, 0442 and 0440. These are evap codes. Stating incorrect purge flow and solenoid malfunctions. Wes told me about another customer with same deal and sent me a copy of what he did to rectify the situation. Wes went on to say that he has to build a custom larger "t" that was inline with the stock filler neck. This "T" is in pic 3 images above. Wes also told me that this customer ran the Return emission line from the aux tank directly to the top fitting on the 2 port "T" on the stock filler neck. (This is opposite of the neck with one line on filler neck)
The line coming off the rollover valve on the aux tank runs to a "T" (supplied in install kit) to the emission line on top of stock tank. The other end of the "T" goes to the emissions canister...
The fuel supply line comes off the top of the aux tank, goes through filter, goes to pump, from pump is directly installed to the angled 3/8" fitting on the custom filler neck insert pictured.
Here's a view of the pump and better view of "T" mentioned above.
Pic of the illuminated rocker switch. Installing was too easy. Three male terminals on back. One ground, one power (battery), one to unit powered (pump). Mounted here with labels that came with pump and tank install kit so wouldn't forget pump is on...
Ran the wire for the pump along the frame rail to the stock grommet underneath the floor on the driver side jump set foot well to the switch mounted in the trim above the fuel panel lid. Grounded it to the same location as the harness for the hitch wiring on frame. Had to extend the ground wire since the pump comes with a short piece of ground wire. No biggie.
Installing the aux filler neck was a snap. Kit comes with hose, hose clamps, breather tube/line, stuant cap and hardware.
Everything is installed at this point. Took the gallon of gas I used to flush particles out of aux tank, put back in tank and tested pump. Flipped rocker switch on, pump ran but was immediately leaking at both ends of hose on either side of pump. The pump comes with those chincy butterfly clamps which are garbage IMO. I removed and replaced them with worm clamps and no leaks after that. Also got a large worm clamp to secure the pump to the underside of the bed. Had to cut a couple of small pieces of hose to insulate the pump from bed then tightened clamp and its runs pretty quite. Initially didn't do this and it vibrated like a bastard (duh).
Keep in mind as I mentioned above I had my custom "T" fittings from autoclone on the initial setup. Yes it did work but back fed like a SOB which was I believe the cause of my CEL to come on. I waited a day after I called Wes at NWMP for my custom filler neck piece to come. It came superfast. He made it immediately after I told him what was going on and it came the next day. If you get this piece from him remember if your going to use a dremmel with a cut off wheel sparks fly. There is gas involved. Remove and cut the filler neck in a safe distance away from the fuel system. With that piece installed and the plumbing plumbed right, no more back feeding and the entire system works flawlessly.
Yeah the setup is expensive but you get what you pay for. The welds are some of the prettiest welds I have ever seen. NWMP customer service is A+. Wes is just one of those cool *** dudes with a ton of experience and it shows in his work. This tank will no doubt last the lifetime of my rig and is going to play a huge part in up and coming adventures.
If you have any questions or gets this system and want the additional information that Wes gave me after he sent the filler neck piece with the updated routing of the lines drop me a line and I can email you them.
The install took about a solid 6 hours for various reasons. It would of taken about 3 but there was obstacles to overcome which I wasn't prepared for. Lack of a lift was the major one. With a lift could of easily done it in 3 hours.
The pictures are of everything installed. Will go through the whole install step by step.
I was fortunate that Wes at Northwest Metal Products had a TP-7 in stock ready to go installation kit and all. Since I was only about a hour and a half away in Lacey WA I drove down there on a Saturday and picked her up. Wes at NWMP was gracious enough to meet me there on his day off so I could pick it up. His willing to do so let me know that this is a great customer friendly company and he would prove it many times over. More on that down on this write up.
After picking it up around 9 am I stopped at a local muffler shop here in Lacey and had a custom tail pipe made to go around the tank. With a little assistance from me the tech mocked up the tank and built the tail pipe with a side exit turn down. He was cognizant of the tank and keeping away from it for safety reasons of course. Also removed my curt trailer hitch since a 4xinnovations bent up with a class 3 hitch is in the near future.
Then it was back to my garage to start the install.
Tools needed:
Socket and ratchet set
4 Volt palm drill if owned
Dyke to cut hose or hose cutting pliers
9/16 box wrench
Pry bar
wire strippers/crimpers
3/8 extension 6" or bigger (for mounting bolts)
Measuring tape (if needed)
Your spare tire crank tool satchel
Extra wire for fuel pump ground
Drill bit set
Extra zip ties
(Optional) Illuminated rocker switch (comes with toggle went with illuminated to remind me pump is on)
Extra female terminals for switch (toggle is screw type not slide on)
Sharpie
Dremel with extra cut off wheel for metal
Drill preferably high speed one
Gallon of gas to flush particles in aux tank during manufacturing before mounted. (make sure flushed and strained with a rag if going to reuse fuel when drained).
Can of black spray paint to touch up places if scratched during install
Small channel locks of butterfly clamp removers
Small amount of dish liquid for installing rollover valve on top of aux tank
Worm clamp for fuel pump
Bent hose pic would be useful if needed (to loosen stock hoses)
Most and most important, PATIENCE/B]
*The whole system is a ready to go install for model tacos with a filler neck with one breather/return coming off the top of the filler neck. If you have 3 lines like mine I explain what need to happen below.*
First thing to do was to use the spare tire hoist to bring the tank up into position to mark the 4 points for the bolts on the cross member. This was difficult doing it by myself since the tank teetered. Had to hold the tank still and crank the hoist at the same time while I was on my back on the ground.
[/URLAfter getting the drill points for the tank bolts then dropped the tank back down and drilled holes. The instructions that came with the kit let you know what size bit to use. After drilling my holes it was time to fasten the lines so when you bring it back up to bolt in you can just run them to there respective places. Do Not Cut Any Lines Yet! I also installed the rollover valve during this time to. Wes at NWMP recommended using a little dish liquid to lube around the surface so it doesn't split the grommet over time. Dudes been doing fuel tanks for 30+ years so followed his instruction.
Important
Now. Before you order your tank make sure you look at your stock filler neck. If it has 1 return/breather line (usually 1 thick one) coming down from the top then you wont need what I'm about to show you. Let Wes know this. The kit came with a smaller version of this "t" fitting that plumbs into the single line on if you have indeed a single line on your filler.
This is what your rig needs if you have 3 lines coming off filler neck
[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/829/img1621w.jpg/]
I tried to install supplied "T" on the 3 line and it was to big for the two smaller lines. I went down to autoclone and got two fuel line "t's" thinking I'll be ok just have to fab my own supply route. If you notice in the pic directly above the "t" has two inlets on top. The bottom is for fuel supply and the top goes to return.
I initially tried tried to accomplish this setup with 2 "t's" (1/4" and 5/16") from autoclone like this...
This setup worked for about a day. No CEL. Then the CEL came on. Had to wait til monday to call Wes and tell him what was going on with codes P 0446, 0442 and 0440. These are evap codes. Stating incorrect purge flow and solenoid malfunctions. Wes told me about another customer with same deal and sent me a copy of what he did to rectify the situation. Wes went on to say that he has to build a custom larger "t" that was inline with the stock filler neck. This "T" is in pic 3 images above. Wes also told me that this customer ran the Return emission line from the aux tank directly to the top fitting on the 2 port "T" on the stock filler neck. (This is opposite of the neck with one line on filler neck)
The line coming off the rollover valve on the aux tank runs to a "T" (supplied in install kit) to the emission line on top of stock tank. The other end of the "T" goes to the emissions canister...
The fuel supply line comes off the top of the aux tank, goes through filter, goes to pump, from pump is directly installed to the angled 3/8" fitting on the custom filler neck insert pictured.
Here's a view of the pump and better view of "T" mentioned above.
Pic of the illuminated rocker switch. Installing was too easy. Three male terminals on back. One ground, one power (battery), one to unit powered (pump). Mounted here with labels that came with pump and tank install kit so wouldn't forget pump is on...
Ran the wire for the pump along the frame rail to the stock grommet underneath the floor on the driver side jump set foot well to the switch mounted in the trim above the fuel panel lid. Grounded it to the same location as the harness for the hitch wiring on frame. Had to extend the ground wire since the pump comes with a short piece of ground wire. No biggie.
Installing the aux filler neck was a snap. Kit comes with hose, hose clamps, breather tube/line, stuant cap and hardware.
Everything is installed at this point. Took the gallon of gas I used to flush particles out of aux tank, put back in tank and tested pump. Flipped rocker switch on, pump ran but was immediately leaking at both ends of hose on either side of pump. The pump comes with those chincy butterfly clamps which are garbage IMO. I removed and replaced them with worm clamps and no leaks after that. Also got a large worm clamp to secure the pump to the underside of the bed. Had to cut a couple of small pieces of hose to insulate the pump from bed then tightened clamp and its runs pretty quite. Initially didn't do this and it vibrated like a bastard (duh).
Keep in mind as I mentioned above I had my custom "T" fittings from autoclone on the initial setup. Yes it did work but back fed like a SOB which was I believe the cause of my CEL to come on. I waited a day after I called Wes at NWMP for my custom filler neck piece to come. It came superfast. He made it immediately after I told him what was going on and it came the next day. If you get this piece from him remember if your going to use a dremmel with a cut off wheel sparks fly. There is gas involved. Remove and cut the filler neck in a safe distance away from the fuel system. With that piece installed and the plumbing plumbed right, no more back feeding and the entire system works flawlessly.
Yeah the setup is expensive but you get what you pay for. The welds are some of the prettiest welds I have ever seen. NWMP customer service is A+. Wes is just one of those cool *** dudes with a ton of experience and it shows in his work. This tank will no doubt last the lifetime of my rig and is going to play a huge part in up and coming adventures.
If you have any questions or gets this system and want the additional information that Wes gave me after he sent the filler neck piece with the updated routing of the lines drop me a line and I can email you them.
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