Plano trunks are not UV resistant. They will turn "powdery" as they deteriorate if kept in the sun. I have never tried to spray paint one - I like the black, grey and green colors I have.
Not so overland camping trailer
- Thread starter hg1027
- Start date
Plano trunks are not UV resistant. They will turn "powdery" as they deteriorate if kept in the sun. I have never tried to spray paint one - I like the black, grey and green colors I have.
Thanks for the replies.
I'll be painting the inside white, just finished painting the inside of the box with some leftover offwhite/tan. Definitely helps see what's inside better. The beetle is white (OK white and rust and dirt) inside.
Girls are pushing for purple outside of the trailer, possibly with embedded Christmas lights.
I'll be painting the inside white, just finished painting the inside of the box with some leftover offwhite/tan. Definitely helps see what's inside better. The beetle is white (OK white and rust and dirt) inside.
Girls are pushing for purple outside of the trailer, possibly with embedded Christmas lights.
rnArmy
Adventurer
There is just a ton of ways you can finish off a HF trailer frame. And since there's only so much you can put in the back of a Jeep (at least before the four-door Wranglers came out) a trailer really makes sense.
Here's a thread dedicated to building up a HF trailer. It includes measuring for new (wider) axle, suspension swaps (sorry; those factory slipper springs suck), and more. Table of contents is in the first post. It is a very long thread, but if you can get though it, you'll be ready to make one of your own. Or get ideas of how to further modify the one you've got.
Mini Harbor Freight (type) Trailer Ultimate Build-Up Thread - JeepForum.com
Here's a thread dedicated to building up a HF trailer. It includes measuring for new (wider) axle, suspension swaps (sorry; those factory slipper springs suck), and more. Table of contents is in the first post. It is a very long thread, but if you can get though it, you'll be ready to make one of your own. Or get ideas of how to further modify the one you've got.
Mini Harbor Freight (type) Trailer Ultimate Build-Up Thread - JeepForum.com
Another successful camp at a state park.
I keep looking at the trailers you guys are building, and the sites I'm staying at, and I wonder:
If you aren't literally camping on your trailer (tent cot/rtt/teardrop) and there's a driveway with parking logs 20 feet from the picnic table/tent pad, how inconvenient is it to have your awning and your fridge and your slide out kitchen basically in the parking lot?
Do you just get as close as possible and then do that stuff there?
Unload and haul all your carefully built in stuff to the picnic table?
Maybe some of you only wild camp, but I have to assume some of you are spending time in more formal camp grounds.
I'm almost ready to start building slide outs and making mounts for things, but it seems we mostly just have everything in tubs or stuff sacks and haul to the eating and sleeping area.
I keep looking at the trailers you guys are building, and the sites I'm staying at, and I wonder:
If you aren't literally camping on your trailer (tent cot/rtt/teardrop) and there's a driveway with parking logs 20 feet from the picnic table/tent pad, how inconvenient is it to have your awning and your fridge and your slide out kitchen basically in the parking lot?
Do you just get as close as possible and then do that stuff there?
Unload and haul all your carefully built in stuff to the picnic table?
Maybe some of you only wild camp, but I have to assume some of you are spending time in more formal camp grounds.
I'm almost ready to start building slide outs and making mounts for things, but it seems we mostly just have everything in tubs or stuff sacks and haul to the eating and sleeping area.
ripper1600
Adventure Seeker
Great having the kids involved. They like using it just as much it seems.
Update!
We spent Monday through Friday of New Years week at Brazos Bend State Park. One rainy day, tent in screened shelter, ez up over the picnic table, tarp on the trailer. It went well.
The Plano trunks are working pretty well. Weather stripping in the lid kept them dry. I’m thinking about folding legs for them to get them off the ground and off the picnic table. They need some sort of dividers/organizers, I lost a tomato for three days and it wasn’t pretty when I found it. Not sure between plywood and wire shelves at the moment.
A few ups and downs with the trailer. On the way around the neighborhood for the shakedown, I heard clunk, clunk, draaaggggg bockety bockety bockety. The hitch was not fully seated, luckily I had tightened up the chains and they caught it just off the ground. The landing gear mount got bent, and the $30 cooler on the tongue got stabbed by the hitch. I will check that connection better in the future.
I built a tray for the tongue. The way I installed it meant taking the tongue apart a couple times, but worth it for the clean installation in my opinion. I’m conscious that this is a light duty trailer, so I’ll be careful what I put here. A full 100 quart cooler would probably not be a good idea.
The tarp with the bungees and the hooks works pretty well, but when it rains I have to pile stuff up underneath to keep it from pooling. I’ve been thinking about an arched rib that would give it a peak, something light and easy to carry. Currently thinking laminated ¼” strips of 2x, want center to be ~6 inches higher than the sides, geometry suggests I only need to cut an inch or two longer than the space. I will try to get to it this weekend. The rib could be semi permanent, giving me a “do not pile beyond this height” marker, with a bracket and a pin at each end. Also need more hooks and more bungee.
I’m also thinking about making a hard top, with boards that would come off and be tables when we get where we’re going. As in the post above, I don’t think I want to be tied to cooking and eating and partying at the trailer, so removable rather than hinged. Split the long way makes for long narrow tables, but 8 feet to weatherproof. Peaked top means I have to add a triangle to my front and back, which could certainly be done. Flat top could have bicycle tie downs.
I started putting some ¼’ strips over the gaps between panels. A few drops got in during the rain last week, and I'm pretty sure it would be worse driving in the rain. I realize I could have made a more tightly fitting box in the first place. Oh well. The bug has bitten me, I’m already thinking of selling this one and how to better build the next. Panels would fit any other 4x8 trailer, so I could just sell them.
Someone chewed on my tailgate in the night. The 6 year old promises it wasn’t her, but she had been saying she was hungry…
We spent Monday through Friday of New Years week at Brazos Bend State Park. One rainy day, tent in screened shelter, ez up over the picnic table, tarp on the trailer. It went well.
The Plano trunks are working pretty well. Weather stripping in the lid kept them dry. I’m thinking about folding legs for them to get them off the ground and off the picnic table. They need some sort of dividers/organizers, I lost a tomato for three days and it wasn’t pretty when I found it. Not sure between plywood and wire shelves at the moment.
A few ups and downs with the trailer. On the way around the neighborhood for the shakedown, I heard clunk, clunk, draaaggggg bockety bockety bockety. The hitch was not fully seated, luckily I had tightened up the chains and they caught it just off the ground. The landing gear mount got bent, and the $30 cooler on the tongue got stabbed by the hitch. I will check that connection better in the future.
I built a tray for the tongue. The way I installed it meant taking the tongue apart a couple times, but worth it for the clean installation in my opinion. I’m conscious that this is a light duty trailer, so I’ll be careful what I put here. A full 100 quart cooler would probably not be a good idea.
The tarp with the bungees and the hooks works pretty well, but when it rains I have to pile stuff up underneath to keep it from pooling. I’ve been thinking about an arched rib that would give it a peak, something light and easy to carry. Currently thinking laminated ¼” strips of 2x, want center to be ~6 inches higher than the sides, geometry suggests I only need to cut an inch or two longer than the space. I will try to get to it this weekend. The rib could be semi permanent, giving me a “do not pile beyond this height” marker, with a bracket and a pin at each end. Also need more hooks and more bungee.
I’m also thinking about making a hard top, with boards that would come off and be tables when we get where we’re going. As in the post above, I don’t think I want to be tied to cooking and eating and partying at the trailer, so removable rather than hinged. Split the long way makes for long narrow tables, but 8 feet to weatherproof. Peaked top means I have to add a triangle to my front and back, which could certainly be done. Flat top could have bicycle tie downs.
I started putting some ¼’ strips over the gaps between panels. A few drops got in during the rain last week, and I'm pretty sure it would be worse driving in the rain. I realize I could have made a more tightly fitting box in the first place. Oh well. The bug has bitten me, I’m already thinking of selling this one and how to better build the next. Panels would fit any other 4x8 trailer, so I could just sell them.
Someone chewed on my tailgate in the night. The 6 year old promises it wasn’t her, but she had been saying she was hungry…
Drawings made and lumber bought for a hard top. I knew I wanted a peak, partly for the additional storage (propane tank is 2 inches taller than the sides) and partly to shed rain.
I was originally trying to hinge above the center support, and figure out how to water tight. Snap on vinyl, velcro on vinyl, some sort of flap. Hinge below solves all of that, means you can't flip all the way over, but should be able to get past 90 so won't slam on your fingers. Some sort of catch will make sure of it.
Current plan is for about 6 inches higher than the sides. 3 vertical 2x4 supports, carriage bolted to the front and back walls and the divider. I bought 11/32 bcx ply, to be sealed with wood hardener around the edges and deck stained. Storage is currently in a garage, may end up living outside, but it would have a tarp over it. Trying to keep it light, and this whole thing is beta test, so cheap.
I'm planning on some ~3/8th strips of 2x SYP for stiffening on the underside. Since the ply is so thin, it will definitely need stiffening, underside so it's not catching rain.
I'm also thinking of removable pin or slide out hinges so these can be used as picnic tables when we get to destination. The center rail would still be there to hold up a tarp if we wanted to cover for rain/privacy.
Center rail would be a good place to put a string of lights, once I confirm water tight.
Happy to have feedback. I'm trying to keep this mostly modular, which makes for some extra work, but I'm happy with how it's going so far.
From the end, end wall not shown. There will be a triangle of ply to fill that area, with a channel at the bottom to slip over the end wall to align and keep water out.
Drawing of hinge idea
Test for angles. I'll confirm the under side where the hinge screws to the rail will have enough angle to allow full drop, and the outside angle enough to flip past 90. Some amount of the barrel might have to be outside the rail, so brass or stainless. A bit of a recess on the lid and the rail to get the hinge where I want it.
Open
Mid
Closed
I was originally trying to hinge above the center support, and figure out how to water tight. Snap on vinyl, velcro on vinyl, some sort of flap. Hinge below solves all of that, means you can't flip all the way over, but should be able to get past 90 so won't slam on your fingers. Some sort of catch will make sure of it.
Current plan is for about 6 inches higher than the sides. 3 vertical 2x4 supports, carriage bolted to the front and back walls and the divider. I bought 11/32 bcx ply, to be sealed with wood hardener around the edges and deck stained. Storage is currently in a garage, may end up living outside, but it would have a tarp over it. Trying to keep it light, and this whole thing is beta test, so cheap.
I'm planning on some ~3/8th strips of 2x SYP for stiffening on the underside. Since the ply is so thin, it will definitely need stiffening, underside so it's not catching rain.
I'm also thinking of removable pin or slide out hinges so these can be used as picnic tables when we get to destination. The center rail would still be there to hold up a tarp if we wanted to cover for rain/privacy.
Center rail would be a good place to put a string of lights, once I confirm water tight.
Happy to have feedback. I'm trying to keep this mostly modular, which makes for some extra work, but I'm happy with how it's going so far.
From the end, end wall not shown. There will be a triangle of ply to fill that area, with a channel at the bottom to slip over the end wall to align and keep water out.
Drawing of hinge idea
Test for angles. I'll confirm the under side where the hinge screws to the rail will have enough angle to allow full drop, and the outside angle enough to flip past 90. Some amount of the barrel might have to be outside the rail, so brass or stainless. A bit of a recess on the lid and the rail to get the hinge where I want it.
Open
Mid
Closed
Rail cut from the 2x8 and glued and screwed back together. There was a knot that caused a bit of a bow, I could have corrected but I didn't see it in time. I will shim and mortise to level out the hinges.
I hadn't thought about it enough to realize, the sides will be parallel whatever angle I cut, putting them back together the way I did. So, once the glue dries tomorrow, I'll cut them to allow the past-90 that I want. Then to cut and glue and brad nail stiffeners to the lids, buy hinges, mortise them in, and see what sort of trim I'm going to need.
I always get tempted to start painting at this point, but I know I'll need to glue something on, or shape something, so it's not worth it.
Im going with oil paint, so it won't be sticky like latex (blech) but still not worth the time saved.
I hadn't thought about it enough to realize, the sides will be parallel whatever angle I cut, putting them back together the way I did. So, once the glue dries tomorrow, I'll cut them to allow the past-90 that I want. Then to cut and glue and brad nail stiffeners to the lids, buy hinges, mortise them in, and see what sort of trim I'm going to need.
I always get tempted to start painting at this point, but I know I'll need to glue something on, or shape something, so it's not worth it.
Im going with oil paint, so it won't be sticky like latex (blech) but still not worth the time saved.
Well, I thought about mortising in each hinge, and realized I''d have to account for the plywood, and went for a full on flattening. It was less sketchy than it looks. But not much less sketchy. My wife was inside, ready to haul me away if necessary.
See here the ~1/4in gap at each end.
The string test suggested it was a whole lot closer to flat, so I proceeded with sanding and painting and slobbering spar varnish all over. Not until the first coat was down did I realize the marks from the flap wheel were still visible. Hopefully the glitter will distract.
The hinges are still not exactly even, so the pins are hard to install. I might try some shims, partly to get better alignment, partly since one idea is to be able to easily pull pins and use the lids as picnic tables on sawhorses. Or screw in legs in some threaded inserts.
The lid stays open just fine on its own. I need to pull the trailer out to mount the other side, and it's raining now, but I think they'll crash in to each other. An eye hook, maybe one of the ones with the spring lock, at each end should do to keep it open and keep them off each other. Maybe a notched stick if only working in one side.
Now that I have the varnish on the top side, my wife wants to get the kids to do murals on the inside. I think once its fully cured I can put it face down on the dining table. Still a bit sticky.
I need a narrow strip under the outboard edge, partly to kick rain over the edge of the wall, partly to give me something to lift by.
I also need to figure out the front and back ends. The gable will need to work around the moving edge of the lid, or I might be able to cut that bit of the lid out.
I'll also need some weatherstripping in here. If I went with different hinges, it might tighten things up a bit. Stronger hinges would also allow for gear mounted to the underside of the lids.
Overall, I'm happy with how it's coming along. Turnaround starts in 8 days, want to get it mostly done before that so my brain has a chance of paying attention.
See here the ~1/4in gap at each end.
The string test suggested it was a whole lot closer to flat, so I proceeded with sanding and painting and slobbering spar varnish all over. Not until the first coat was down did I realize the marks from the flap wheel were still visible. Hopefully the glitter will distract.
The hinges are still not exactly even, so the pins are hard to install. I might try some shims, partly to get better alignment, partly since one idea is to be able to easily pull pins and use the lids as picnic tables on sawhorses. Or screw in legs in some threaded inserts.
The lid stays open just fine on its own. I need to pull the trailer out to mount the other side, and it's raining now, but I think they'll crash in to each other. An eye hook, maybe one of the ones with the spring lock, at each end should do to keep it open and keep them off each other. Maybe a notched stick if only working in one side.
Now that I have the varnish on the top side, my wife wants to get the kids to do murals on the inside. I think once its fully cured I can put it face down on the dining table. Still a bit sticky.
I need a narrow strip under the outboard edge, partly to kick rain over the edge of the wall, partly to give me something to lift by.
I also need to figure out the front and back ends. The gable will need to work around the moving edge of the lid, or I might be able to cut that bit of the lid out.
I'll also need some weatherstripping in here. If I went with different hinges, it might tighten things up a bit. Stronger hinges would also allow for gear mounted to the underside of the lids.
Overall, I'm happy with how it's coming along. Turnaround starts in 8 days, want to get it mostly done before that so my brain has a chance of paying attention.
Trailer has now been to Big Bend (~1500 miles round trip) and Houston-Santa Fe-Denver-Houston (with a few other stops, ~3k miles).
Lots of rain delaminated one section of plywood on the lid, and the style of lid dumps water in to the trailer if its wet, but otherwise stayed dry in some solid downpours.
Repairs and updates in mind -
I don't know how often people regrease hubs on these guys, but doing 400 miles a day at 70+, I don't think it's unreasonable to at least have a look. That's on the list next time I'm grubby in the garage.
Tilting the lid over the center causes a lot of strain on the wood where it hits (2 inches from the hinge, another 24 inches of lid to get pushed on by hands or wind). Some separation, but I threw a few extra screws in. I'm working on a locking hinge support, but might re-design.
Possible redesign in mind, not sure how far to take it.
-Raise top another foot, solid peaked top, and make the doors more like the side openers on a truck bed cap. This should help with the water.
-Raise the sides and put drawers in under the whole shebang
-Redo the whole thing as more of a teardrop. I don't really need inside sleeping, because there are usually at least 4 of us, and there's no way we're all fitting. Maybe kids in the Suburban and adults in the trailer.
The space for stuff is adequate as is, and we're already thinking about a hard side camper for trips to bear country, so might not be worth putting much more effort in here.
Lots of rain delaminated one section of plywood on the lid, and the style of lid dumps water in to the trailer if its wet, but otherwise stayed dry in some solid downpours.
Repairs and updates in mind -
I don't know how often people regrease hubs on these guys, but doing 400 miles a day at 70+, I don't think it's unreasonable to at least have a look. That's on the list next time I'm grubby in the garage.
Tilting the lid over the center causes a lot of strain on the wood where it hits (2 inches from the hinge, another 24 inches of lid to get pushed on by hands or wind). Some separation, but I threw a few extra screws in. I'm working on a locking hinge support, but might re-design.
Possible redesign in mind, not sure how far to take it.
-Raise top another foot, solid peaked top, and make the doors more like the side openers on a truck bed cap. This should help with the water.
-Raise the sides and put drawers in under the whole shebang
-Redo the whole thing as more of a teardrop. I don't really need inside sleeping, because there are usually at least 4 of us, and there's no way we're all fitting. Maybe kids in the Suburban and adults in the trailer.
The space for stuff is adequate as is, and we're already thinking about a hard side camper for trips to bear country, so might not be worth putting much more effort in here.
4000lbsOfGoat
Well-known member
This is a great write up! Glad to see you making things work for you and, most importantly, getting the family outside!
Cheers!
I hereby award you 10 "ExPo points" for your adventure into the grass, 12 if the grass was at least slightly damp!
We have a squaredrop but the issue still applies. I'd rather not spend all my time right next to the road when there is a nice open space on the other side of those logs. So, we try to avoid spots that are setup like that. I understand the desire to protect the environment but a lot of park campgrounds are just poorly laid out. Basically, wherever the trailer sits is where we are camping. However, that isn't nearly as much of an issue for the 2 of us as it would be for the larger groups that you camp with. If we get stuck in such a situation we just ignore the picnic table\fire ring because we really don't need them anyway - we have our own tables and fire barrel. We don't spend much time in formal campgrounds but sometimes you just can't avoid it and sometimes it's a bit annoying - but less annoying than squatting with my little camper in an "RV park" ?
I did a river trip a number of years ago with a guy who had his raft setup along these lines. The raft had "benches" built along the sides and in the middle that were made from plywood. When we landed for the day, all the benches came out, had steel pipe legs screwed into them and, voila!, tables! This could also help to solve your "we need to be near a picnic table" issue.
Cheers!
D
Deleted member 9101
Guest
Those trailers are an awesome bang for the buck.
One key down side is the grease they use for the bearings...it's horribly low quality.
Another is the low quality of the tires.
Lastly the paint on them is a joke... In a year it will be peeling off.
One key down side is the grease they use for the bearings...it's horribly low quality.
Another is the low quality of the tires.
Lastly the paint on them is a joke... In a year it will be peeling off.
Thanks for the replies.
Regarding the overall quality, I think I got what I paid for. Convenience of being in boxes on a shelf, along with the price, I'm not disappointed. Even if it disintegrated now, $350 for something like 35 nights camping and several hardware store loads, it's cheaper than a rental.
I do keep it in the garage almost full time. That's probably keeping it a lot shinier than if it lived outside.
I haven't popped off the dust caps yet, but I did regrease at assembly. If it's gross in there when I look later this week, or as soon as I see the tires delaminating, I'll be tempted to swap in a real trailer axle with real hubs/wheels/tires. If I remember right, all of that can be done under $250.
As for the paint, I think it will be a race between the paint and the steel at the landing gear. I saw that beam flex a bit every time we unhooked. I have the gear on the inside of the A frame, so it's closer to center, and the handle/folding action is not convenient.
I have it empty right now, and I'd like to strip it down, clean and repaint the welds I made, and add some more bracing. I understand it will never approach the solidity of a box frame, but I think it's worth the time and a few feet of flat bar for gussets.
I do not intend to put a lot more design in to this trailer. If I were to go for a RTT on a trailer, I'd want a much stiffer frame to start with. I'm still split between gear trailer with or without RTT, tear drop, or pop up. AC on an enclosed trailer would add months to my camping season in Houston...
Regarding the overall quality, I think I got what I paid for. Convenience of being in boxes on a shelf, along with the price, I'm not disappointed. Even if it disintegrated now, $350 for something like 35 nights camping and several hardware store loads, it's cheaper than a rental.
I do keep it in the garage almost full time. That's probably keeping it a lot shinier than if it lived outside.
I haven't popped off the dust caps yet, but I did regrease at assembly. If it's gross in there when I look later this week, or as soon as I see the tires delaminating, I'll be tempted to swap in a real trailer axle with real hubs/wheels/tires. If I remember right, all of that can be done under $250.
As for the paint, I think it will be a race between the paint and the steel at the landing gear. I saw that beam flex a bit every time we unhooked. I have the gear on the inside of the A frame, so it's closer to center, and the handle/folding action is not convenient.
I have it empty right now, and I'd like to strip it down, clean and repaint the welds I made, and add some more bracing. I understand it will never approach the solidity of a box frame, but I think it's worth the time and a few feet of flat bar for gussets.
I do not intend to put a lot more design in to this trailer. If I were to go for a RTT on a trailer, I'd want a much stiffer frame to start with. I'm still split between gear trailer with or without RTT, tear drop, or pop up. AC on an enclosed trailer would add months to my camping season in Houston...
billiebob
Well-known member
Absolutely !!
This trailer has done its job and introduced the family to camping.
When the time is right, move on.
Trailer sat empty for a bit, then I went to borrow a canoe. I pulled the folding lids off to get the canoe on, and it turned out the canoe is 17'6. Even all the way up to the ball, there's over 5 feet of canoe hanging off the back end. Don't tell the DOT.
Kids are going to private school this year, so camping rather than hotels, and this trailer, along with whatever improvements I can make with what's in the garage and shed, will have to do. Lucky I'm a hoarder. We have the week of Thanksgiving, and between Christmas and New Years, and a couple other weekends booked. Just local stuff, but still something to look forward to.
I'll also be packing it in the next couple weeks as a hurricane supply locker/giant go bag. My wife is on the ride out team at the hospital, so we'll drop her, cot, and bag, and head for the hills. Or my brother's back yard in Austin.
Kids are going to private school this year, so camping rather than hotels, and this trailer, along with whatever improvements I can make with what's in the garage and shed, will have to do. Lucky I'm a hoarder. We have the week of Thanksgiving, and between Christmas and New Years, and a couple other weekends booked. Just local stuff, but still something to look forward to.
I'll also be packing it in the next couple weeks as a hurricane supply locker/giant go bag. My wife is on the ride out team at the hospital, so we'll drop her, cot, and bag, and head for the hills. Or my brother's back yard in Austin.