OBI Dweller Review and Discussion

[rblitz]

Update on my Alibaba purchase of Compaq RV parts direct from China. I've had to request a refund at day 29 because the shipping info I have shows that the order has not shipped from China yet. The fulfillment guy "Dale" who I worked with on the order is insisting it's in the US; but the fact that he reached out (unprompted) to tell me this the day before Alibaba's 30-day refund policy expires suggests that it was a scam.

It was worth a try, but I think that you really have to be shipping significant amounts of product to get past all the scammers.

 

[Dmora874]

Electrical help:


OBI Dweller Electrical issues:

Summary:

The electrical issues have evolved. At first the trailer worked fine no issues. After a couple trips started to notice issues. Issues in order of occurrence as well as possible correlations:

• Issue: Some, not all the of the electrical components would stop working about mid-way through the day:
• Stopped working at the switch: Iceco fridge, water pump, interior lights, toilet, all exterior cabinet/drawer lights, and all but one of the exterior LED lights.
• Continued working: step switch, awning switch, voltage and amp gauge, Truma screen, Renogy Screen, purple exterior handle light, lower exterior LED light above outside cooking.
• Remedy: Overnight sleep and try in the morning would all work again. My thought is this had something to do with heat.

Troubleshooting steps:

• Checked all fuses; Passed
• Removed fuse panel to check for lose connections; Found lose black wire in connector, see image:
• 
• 
• This wire goes from this connector to a group of 3 other wires I assume are grounds that are screwed to the wall of the trailer.
  • 1 Black wire from busbar
  • 1 black wire from assume battery; cannot find origin comes from inside bundle
  • Above black wire from fuse panel
• Outcome: This fixed the all the non-working items above except for new issues:
  • Awning just pops fuse now
  • Water pump will not turn on
• Issue: Water pump will not turn on.
• Tested water pump continuity to see if power is going from switch to wires of water pump.
  • Result: No power when switch is flipped.
• Tested water pump by hooking directly to negative and positive battery terminals
  • Result: Water pump turns on
• Test switch by exchanging the switch with a working switch (Fridge)
  • Result:
    • Water pump does not turn on with fridge switch
    • Fridge turns on with pump switch (Switch is not issue)
    • Swapped the connectors on back of panel:
    • 
    • Result: Everything will work (Water pump included)

This leads me to believe that the black wire coming out of the fuse panel is causing an issue as it is the 4th pin in the above picture and the 4th pin is missing in the swapped location. Not sure where to go from here or what to do to fix the issue.



Would I be ok to just leave them swapped? I assume I would need to put the right fuse in the wrong location (example: Fridge fuse may now be exterior light fuse, etc.)

Is it possible that the fuse panel can be replaced? No luck finding one online.

 

[rblitz]

Update on my Alibaba purchase of Compaq RV parts direct from China. I've had to request a refund at day 29 because the shipping info I have shows that the order has not shipped from China yet. The fulfillment guy "Dale" who I worked with on the order is insisting it's in the US; but the fact that he reached out (unprompted) to tell me this the day before Alibaba's 30-day refund policy expires suggests that it was a scam.

It was worth a try, but I think that you really have to be shipping significant amounts of product to get past all the scammers.

Follow-up: "Dale" gave me a UPS tracking ID to show that the shipment had reached the US. Plugging that into the UPS tracking site confirms a valid shipping label, so I think I"m going to see how this plays out. When you cancel and Alibaba shipment/purchase, it goes into "negotiation" status; that gives the shipper a chance to explain what's going on. I'll leave it in negotiation until I see what happens with the UPS item.

 

[rblitz]

Follow-up: "Dale" gave me a UPS tracking ID to show that the shipment had reached the US. Plugging that into the UPS tracking site confirms a valid shipping label, so I think I"m going to see how this plays out. When you cancel and Alibaba shipment/purchase, it goes into "negotiation" status; that gives the shipper a chance to explain what's going on. I'll leave it in negotiation until I see what happens with the UPS item.

Second update: the part came! I think the thing is that with so many shipping/delivery intermediaries, the information you get regarding your order is incomplete. Once the part hit the US and UPS picked it up, I had a tracking #. The packaging was in tatters, so I wouldn't order a Fabrege Egg, but a steel stabilizing strut wrapped in bubble wrap is going to survive.

 

[longbowelk]

Electrical help:


OBI Dweller Electrical issues:

Summary:

The electrical issues have evolved. At first the trailer worked fine no issues. After a couple trips started to notice issues. Issues in order of occurrence as well as possible correlations:

• Issue: Some, not all the of the electrical components would stop working about mid-way through the day:
• Stopped working at the switch: Iceco fridge, water pump, interior lights, toilet, all exterior cabinet/drawer lights, and all but one of the exterior LED lights.
• Continued working: step switch, awning switch, voltage and amp gauge, Truma screen, Renogy Screen, purple exterior handle light, lower exterior LED light above outside cooking.
• Remedy: Overnight sleep and try in the morning would all work again. My thought is this had something to do with heat.

Troubleshooting steps:

• Checked all fuses; Passed
• Removed fuse panel to check for lose connections; Found lose black wire in connector, see image:
• View attachment 885034
• View attachment 885035
• This wire goes from this connector to a group of 3 other wires I assume are grounds that are screwed to the wall of the trailer.
  • 1 Black wire from busbar
  • 1 black wire from assume battery; cannot find origin comes from inside bundle
  • Above black wire from fuse panel
• Outcome: This fixed the all the non-working items above except for new issues:
  • Awning just pops fuse now
  • Water pump will not turn on
• Issue: Water pump will not turn on.
• Tested water pump continuity to see if power is going from switch to wires of water pump.
  • Result: No power when switch is flipped.
• Tested water pump by hooking directly to negative and positive battery terminals
  • Result: Water pump turns on
• Test switch by exchanging the switch with a working switch (Fridge)
  • Result:
    • Water pump does not turn on with fridge switch
    • Fridge turns on with pump switch (Switch is not issue)
    • Swapped the connectors on back of panel:
    • View attachment 885036
    • Result: Everything will work (Water pump included)

This leads me to believe that the black wire coming out of the fuse panel is causing an issue as it is the 4th pin in the above picture and the 4th pin is missing in the swapped location. Not sure where to go from here or what to do to fix the issue.



Would I be ok to just leave them swapped? I assume I would need to put the right fuse in the wrong location (example: Fridge fuse may now be exterior light fuse, etc.)

Is it possible that the fuse panel can be replaced? No luck finding one online.

Ok, I guess I need to know how to create a new thread. Tried everything so I will add to this post as I think my problem is electrical or battery. I have a 2021 D15. Purchased new in Sept 23. The Iceco fridge basically will not run off the original batteries. Last fall was prepping for Colorado elk hunt. Unit is kept under carport plugged in. Once I pulled out the fridge shutdown. Once the sun hit the solar panels about 15 min later it came on. Once we set up camp same problem. Remedy at that time was we used a 1000W Jackery power station. No problem. So today, I tried a few things. With camper plugged in to shore power fridge works. Unplug AC power nope. Plug in Jackery, yep, works fine. Batteries showed 13.6 volts at start of process.
Something weird here. I am not schooled on solar or electrical.
I do have more questions on alternative heat when offgrid and more detailed info on adding portable solar. Thanks, Alan

 

[Dmora874]

Ok, I guess I need to know how to create a new thread. Tried everything so I will add to this post as I think my problem is electrical or battery. I have a 2021 D15. Purchased new in Sept 23. The Iceco fridge basically will not run off the original batteries. Last fall was prepping for Colorado elk hunt. Unit is kept under carport plugged in. Once I pulled out the fridge shutdown. Once the sun hit the solar panels about 15 min later it came on. Once we set up camp same problem. Remedy at that time was we used a 1000W Jackery power station. No problem. So today, I tried a few things. With camper plugged in to shore power fridge works. Unplug AC power nope. Plug in Jackery, yep, works fine. Batteries showed 13.6 volts at start of process.
Something weird here. I am not schooled on solar or electrical.
I do have more questions on alternative heat when offgrid and more detailed info on adding portable solar. Thanks, Alan

This is how my problems started. I have gone down the rabbit hole to think it is the actual fuse panel in the unit.

Does yours look like this?
Mine did the same things, then eventually, the lights inside stopped working, then, the toilet, now the water pump.. I have tested all of them from the switch, to hooking up directly to a battery that I know is good and all appliances work. So I am stumped and waiting for any help ROA may provide as this is where I got mine. However, trying to find help on these units outside of that has been impossible for me.

 

[clayton.christensen]

I have an 2023 Dweller 15. Has anyone experienced a leaky shower pan. I noticed today I had water dripping from the sink drain hose and the hot and cold water lines. When I opened the compartment there was water in it. The sink does not leak. After further inspection, I noticed after running the water that it was going under sink cabinet which is caulked but looks like it is not a good seal.

 

[TonyJ]

Ok, I guess I need to know how to create a new thread. Tried everything so I will add to this post as I think my problem is electrical or battery. I have a 2021 D15. Purchased new in Sept 23. The Iceco fridge basically will not run off the original batteries. Last fall was prepping for Colorado elk hunt. Unit is kept under carport plugged in. Once I pulled out the fridge shutdown. Once the sun hit the solar panels about 15 min later it came on. Once we set up camp same problem. Remedy at that time was we used a 1000W Jackery power station. No problem. So today, I tried a few things. With camper plugged in to shore power fridge works. Unplug AC power nope. Plug in Jackery, yep, works fine. Batteries showed 13.6 volts at start of process.
Something weird here. I am not schooled on solar or electrical.
I do have more questions on alternative heat when offgrid and more detailed info on adding portable solar. Thanks, Alan

The original batteries are junk. They didn't keep them charged, etc, and most folks I know, including myself, experienced the batteries not holding a charge at all. Instead of wasting time & money on new AGM batteries, go right to Lifepo4. I put 3) 12.8v 140AH LiTime batteries from Amazon. 420AH now, and all of that's useable, instead of only 50% from AGMs. You will need to reprogram the inverter/charger, but there's several videos on YouTube that'll make it easy.

 

[longbowelk]

Thanks for info. If I changed over to the Lifepo4 100's or 140's would I be able to run the heater and hot water? I would think with 3 100ah Lifepo4 I should easily run the Iceco fridge/freezer indefinitely with the stock solar and some portable panels if needed.

 

[TonyJ]

Thanks for info. If I changed over to the Lifepo4 100's or 140's would I be able to run the heater and hot water? I would think with 3 100ah Lifepo4 I should easily run the Iceco fridge/freezer indefinitely with the stock solar and some portable panels if needed.

The AGMs would do all that, but with the Lithiums, they'll run twice as long due to the Lithium batteries holding their voltage throughout the discharge cycle until the very end. It's amazing what a difference they make. The only thing that won't run with your setup is the AC, unless you're plugged into 'shore power'. The only way to get that to run offgrid, would be to upgrade your inverter to a 3,000w unit. But for an inverter/charger unit like that, it's not worth the cost (at least to me). I went with the 140AH batteries because they're the exact size as the stock AGMs = easy replacement, & they weren't that much difference in price to not do it. LiTime is having a big sale right now (I think it started already), so if you're going that way anyway, it might be the time to pull the trigger. Also, once you go to Lithium, the 300 watts of solar on the roff should be sufficient. If you add solar, even a portable, you'll need to add another controller. Hope that helps

 

[Josh00333]

I run heater refer 12vt fan few lights a few hrs and use a Kureg in the am on a 300amp hr lithium w the stock solar and not dropped below 12.9-13 once (since I got the charger and solar controller repr right).

Now I’m in S Idaho good sun in the summer, rain days or fall might be a different matter but that’s what the genny is for.

 

[longbowelk]

The AGMs would do all that, but with the Lithiums, they'll run twice as long due to the Lithium batteries holding their voltage throughout the discharge cycle until the very end. It's amazing what a difference they make. The only thing that won't run with your setup is the AC, unless you're plugged into 'shore power'. The only way to get that to run offgrid, would be to upgrade your inverter to a 3,000w unit. But for an inverter/charger unit like that, it's not worth the cost (at least to me). I went with the 140AH batteries because they're the exact size as the stock AGMs = easy replacement, & they weren't that much difference in price to not do it. LiTime is having a big sale right now (I think it started already), so if you're going that way anyway, it might be the time to pull the trigger. Also, once you go to Lithium, the 300 watts of solar on the roff should be sufficient. If you add solar, even a portable, you'll need to add another controller. Hope that helps

OK, I checked LiTime website. I see new at $389. 3 pack at $382 each. And Like new for $287. $300 savings. What you think?

 

[TonyJ]

OK, I checked LiTime website. I see new at $389. 3 pack at $382 each. And Like new for $287. $300 savings. What you think?

When I bought mine through Amazon last year, I think they were $389 each. So, since everything keeps going up in price, I'd go with "New" at the $382 and 'smile all the while'. That's just me though.

 

[TonyJ]

Just checked on Amazon, the batteries I bought are now $358.79

 

[Josh00333]

OK, I checked LiTime website. I see new at $389. 3 pack at $382 each. And Like new for $287. $300 savings. What you think?

if those are the 140’s not bad.

you can do a single 300 for under $700 if cost is a concern, 500 like new.


https://www.litime.com/products/litime-12v-300ah-lifepo4-lithium-battery

I would do a like new 460, if I was doing a battery today. $890

https://www.litime.com/products/like-new-litime-12v-460ah-lifepo4-lithium-battery