Off-grid, full time truck camper (re) build journal - Driven to Adventure
- Thread starter DrivenToAdventure
- Start date
DrivenToAdventure
Member
Oddly enough we got it from jet.com. The space is a weird size and we really struggled to find one that would fit.
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DrivenToAdventure
Member
LivinDaDream
Member
Not trying to hijack this thread, it's an interesting and well planned build, but in answering the question about Ah consumption of the Vitrifrigo unit
I'll have more data in a few days, but I just replaced my Norcold 301 series LP/AC/DC type fridge in my Lance camper with a Vitrifrigo C115 model (smaller than the OP's unit), but the mfr's spec's (45W, 3.78A, 12V nom.) seem pretty close as far as power draw (47.2W, 3.75A @12.61V. I attached a cheap Chinese power usage module to the fridge to monitor usage and so far, with temps here in the 60's and low 70's today, looks to be using about 13Wh/hour with temp set to maintain about 34F and no opening and closing of the door. The unit has been up and running since Friday evening, so it's well-stabilized, thermally. Probably typical of what one could expect overnight.
The Norcold was a pig when it came to running off battery and it seemed the duty-cycle was close to 100%. I didn't measure it, but I suspect the energy usage was well over 130-140wh/hr...not good with only about 1800wh of useable battery capacity (100Ah LiPo and 100Ah FLA). So I've cut my daily energy use for the refrigerator from somewhere around 3000Wh to probably less than 500Wh...yeah! Yes, I could have run the Norcold off LP, but I only have a 20lb tank and would rather not have to carry an extra with me for longer trips.
Obviously, no long term experience with the Vitrifrigo unit, but it seems well made. I'll update in a separate thread as I have more experience with the unit.
Cheers!
NuclearFreeZone
Member
@LivinDaDream, thanks much for that great information. I'm not a fan of the Norcold in our Lance either and I'm very interested in yours and @DrivenToAdventure 's experiences.
DrivenToAdventure
Member
We got the fridge installed finally! Although it was almost a perfect fit, it took some finesse to get it secured in there perfectly. Here is a view from the back. You can see we built a little shelf under it to get it to fit right.
And from the front...
I’m really happy with how it performed when I tested it. It’s only drawing 9 amps on 12v and it cools down WAY faster than our old 3 way fridge.
It was 87F the day I tested it and it 2.5 hrs to get the freezer at 5F and the fridge at 35F!
We’re slowly making progress on the Espar install. Our fuel tank arrived but the measurements didn’t account for the brackets on the bottom so it didn’t fit!
Not a big deal though. Greg had a buddy cut those off and weld on some new feet.
I painted it after just to make it look good lol Here it is in place in the camper...
Unfortunately with the new feet it was now too high and we couldn’t lock the door! We found a temporary cover for the old hole and were waiting on the actual lock to arrive in the mail for the new hole.
We wrapped the heat exchanger using insulation and reflectix tape and mounted it under the sink...
Then we moved on to making a DIY duct for the furnace blower so that we can split the ductwork off in 2 directions...
We purchased an electric block heater to incorporate into our install for when we are plugged in (rate but still).
Lastly we removed the old furnace that was under the fridge and capped off the old furnace vents. Eventually we’ll make some drawer storage for this area...
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And from the front...
I’m really happy with how it performed when I tested it. It’s only drawing 9 amps on 12v and it cools down WAY faster than our old 3 way fridge.
It was 87F the day I tested it and it 2.5 hrs to get the freezer at 5F and the fridge at 35F!
We’re slowly making progress on the Espar install. Our fuel tank arrived but the measurements didn’t account for the brackets on the bottom so it didn’t fit!
Not a big deal though. Greg had a buddy cut those off and weld on some new feet.
I painted it after just to make it look good lol Here it is in place in the camper...
Unfortunately with the new feet it was now too high and we couldn’t lock the door! We found a temporary cover for the old hole and were waiting on the actual lock to arrive in the mail for the new hole.
We wrapped the heat exchanger using insulation and reflectix tape and mounted it under the sink...
Then we moved on to making a DIY duct for the furnace blower so that we can split the ductwork off in 2 directions...
We purchased an electric block heater to incorporate into our install for when we are plugged in (rate but still).
Lastly we removed the old furnace that was under the fridge and capped off the old furnace vents. Eventually we’ll make some drawer storage for this area...
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DrivenToAdventure
Member
Can you send a link to the power usage module you’re using? I’d be interested to use one as well
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DrivenToAdventure
Member
luthj
Engineer In Residence
This is the filter screen built into the inlet barb on the pump.
https://www.ebay.com/i/332390895919?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=20160908110712&meid=064168bb759c46dba8ad93f4be7681d2&pid=100677&rk=6&rkt=11&sd=113271738682&itm=332390895919
That filter looks like it will do the job. The screen on the pump filter is really fine.
Note that the added volume in an in-line filter may require manual line priming if the lines run dry. Not a big deal if you know about it though. It doesn't take a lot of air to cause a flame out. Also filters like that must be before the fuel pump. The way the dosing pumps work, they need the stiff plastic line as contiguous as possible from the pump to the heater.
https://www.ebay.com/i/332390895919?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=20160908110712&meid=064168bb759c46dba8ad93f4be7681d2&pid=100677&rk=6&rkt=11&sd=113271738682&itm=332390895919
That filter looks like it will do the job. The screen on the pump filter is really fine.
Note that the added volume in an in-line filter may require manual line priming if the lines run dry. Not a big deal if you know about it though. It doesn't take a lot of air to cause a flame out. Also filters like that must be before the fuel pump. The way the dosing pumps work, they need the stiff plastic line as contiguous as possible from the pump to the heater.
LivinDaDream
Member
Here is a link to the unit I'm using for the fridge...it will read up to 20A max current. I also have a similar unit that uses and external shunt that can handle up to 100A current. I use that one for monitoring input to the system from my solar panels (400W).
20A unit is about $15 and the 100A unit is around $19.
20A unit: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-1...r=8-2-spons&keywords=bayite+power+meter&psc=1
100A unit with external shunt: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-1..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=Z16M3ARHT8XNQE3363VN
Cheers!
DrivenToAdventure
Member
Thanks!
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racer3822
Observer
Great build thread! Been considering an Espar and whether to mount it to the truck or in the camper like you did.
It's odd I also have a 3 way Norcold, and it essentially cannot be run off of 12v. I installed a large inverter and runs off of that when I'm driving as the LP pilot always gets blown out for some reason. Does well on 110v, I'm curious how much power it would draw when not driving after going through the inverter and everything else and may try your gauge you posted.
Following this post!
It's odd I also have a 3 way Norcold, and it essentially cannot be run off of 12v. I installed a large inverter and runs off of that when I'm driving as the LP pilot always gets blown out for some reason. Does well on 110v, I'm curious how much power it would draw when not driving after going through the inverter and everything else and may try your gauge you posted.
Following this post!
DrivenToAdventure
Member
I haven't updated in a while because the installation of the Espar has taken WAY longer than expected. It would be so much easier if we were installing this in a new build but having to modify the existing camper and work around things already there has proven to be very time consuming. This was one of the main reasons that Greg wanted to build from scratch but I'm still convinced it would have taken us 5 more years to get on the road!
Hopefully I have a real update for you soon
