Off Road / Expo biodieselers & WVO users...

overlander

Expedition Leader
I'm very interested in this topic. I have an NAS 110 with a 2.8 TGV, and my rig is "bio-ready" as told by my conversion guru. Only have a few thousand miles on the new engine, and I have an inline water seperator in addition to the diesel filter. I have been wanting to try out biodiesel, but as this is my daily driver, I am a little concerned about the whole having to swap filters thing and damaging my engine or stalling somewhere to/from work due to filter clogging. i want to be able to switch back and forth between bio and dino. any thoughts on issues tactics to allow this?
 

DesertRose

Safari Chick & Supporting Sponsor
dieselcruiserhead said:
It's a great engine. Only thing is particularly at altitude it is a dog.. One of my best friends has one in a BJ42... Even with the turbo it is a still a slight dog.. I drove one that Mark Ritchie (old school Canadian cruiserhead had) and couldn't believe the power he had. Also using a cheap home brew turbo... He pulled the head, ported and polished it himself, and put back on, and simply porting and polishing was night and day. It will still be slightly doggish juiced up versus say a 12H-T, but will still work fine. Without the port and polish it will be really really annoyingly doggish, and will have high EGT's when you turn up the fuel to where it should be. It will cruise fine on the flats but will have doggishness in 4WD and the slightest hill will bog it down...

Before CM, I would have told you to stay away, just too doggish. Bottom line is a turbo is required, so factor in that cost (~$1800 usually for a decent kit. Or you can home brew (I have done for less than $400 and it worked great, but is... ...homebrew).

The bolt pattern is more or less the same as the 2F but requires a longer input shaft so requires a B series specific transmission, which are slightly different than the off the shelf stuff. Buying a complete drivetrain is not a bad way to do it at all.. Jeremiah Proffitt is doing just this right now.. So far he dislikes the 3B from a install point a view (the EDIC install is slightly complicated from a diesel install point of view (the 1HZ is one wire like a Cummins setup - 12V on, 12v off turns off. Then alternator and starter and glow and that's it)... Again the head ported and polished goes a long way...

Thank you for the information - obviously lots to consider here.
 

dieselcruiserhead

16 Years on ExPo. Whoa!!
overlander said:
I'm very interested in this topic. I have an NAS 110 with a 2.8 TGV, and my rig is "bio-ready" as told by my conversion guru. Only have a few thousand miles on the new engine, and I have an inline water seperator in addition to the diesel filter. I have been wanting to try out biodiesel, but as this is my daily driver, I am a little concerned about the whole having to swap filters thing and damaging my engine or stalling somewhere to/from work due to filter clogging. i want to be able to switch back and forth between bio and dino. any thoughts on issues tactics to allow this?

Yes advice is don't worry about this. The engine damage issues are long term issues if you continually run and frequently make your lift pump work hard by not changing the filter. There are lots and lots and lots of guys running 300tdi engines on bio and WVO with no issues. Click on the link in the first post, that is in the Rover section of Pirate, you'll see what I'm talking about... The guy who owns plantdrive.com (sells vegetable oil kits) runs his 300tdi on WVO.. If they can run on WVO then they can run on anything.. They sell biodiesel at the pump, a lot of people run it and don't even know it. I would run it, might need to change a filter or two in the beginning, then enjoy. Start with small blends maybe, if you want your filters to last a little longer, I dunno... It is not "dangerous."

You can feel when a diesel filter starts to clog. Loss of power and/or possible hickups from the engine, like you have a cap and rotor that is failing on a gas engine. The most possible damage is a lift pump. These are usually diaphram pumps so they either work or don't (diaphragm will tear from too much resistance ie working too hard). The diaphragm is a piece of rubber inside the pump. Lift pumps are probably expensive on a 300tdi but are normally never more than $65 for most domestic models. I bought one preventively last time, and to have a nationwide warranty should it fail somewhere.
 
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Dmarchand

Adventurer
I run b20-100 in my 2.8 (300 tdi variant). Get it from down the street. I'm now exploring how to turn my second fuel tank into a WVO system.One of the only stickers I have on my truck (I have a bias to stickers) is "biodiesel" on the sliders.

medium.jpg
 

Dmarchand

Adventurer
Let's hope so. It's fun to start-up the truck in a parking lot, getting that puff of start-up smoke and the dirty looks. I just point at the sticker and wave.... :)
 

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