Off Roading in a LR3 vs LR4?

[spammer]

I'm curious about the differences in off-roading in an LR3 and LR4. I have read that there are more accessories for the LR3, but it seems like that is mainly a bull bar and snorkel which are incompatible with the LR4. Looks like both can accommodate winches and sliders etc. I also read there are slightly better approach angles on the LR3. The LR4 has a few extra modes like Sand which could help.

Any other advantages one way or the other? I know the lower control arm bushings is a common problem on the LR3. Was this taken care of in the LR4? Which one do you think is more reliable?

I'm just researching a bit now. Thinking by later this year I'll find a 2009 LR3 or 2010 LR4 depending on your comments.

I have a 95 LWB that is almost perfect that I will probably sell to move into an LR3-4. My main reason for doing it is that I want to spend less time tinkering with rovers and more time enjoying them. I have read that the LR3-4 are some of the most reliable rovers, and I love the option for the rear diff lock. Seems like a good fit for me.

 

[PhyrraM]

My LR3 has a sand mode.

While it's difficult to compare all the parts numbers because of running improvements and such, I believe that from the transmission back, the LR3 and LR4 share drivetrains. I know the LR4 operates on a faster CANBUS so the Terrain Response is different because of that - however, finding comments that say it's better are few and far between.

I, personally, have not read that the LR4 eats suspension bushings. Again, - however, many LR4s are just getting to the kinds of mileage that will test that idea. They no not share bushing part numbers, that I can see.

There are some posts about a frame bracket that is a hindrance on LR4s with bigger tires. IIRC, the same bracket can be simply unbolted and moved on an LR3.

From all that I have read, most of the LR4s advantages show up in on-road driving. Off-road driving evens up pretty good. I can say that my LR3 (V8, HD, stock 19" street tires) keeps up with a fully locked, 4.0:1 low ranged, 35" tired CJ5 in everything (desert/wash type of terrain) but very tight spots and long very loose climbs. It absolutely thrashed a stock, open diffed YJ Wrangler on the same runs. I'm sure an LR4 would have turned in an equal performance.

 

[nwoods]

All that painted body molding on the LR4 would be a little raw after some decent off road use. The LR3's flat black plastic trims are much more practical for that sort of use....

Not an LR4, but you get my meaning:

 

[spammer]

All that painted body molding on the LR4 would be a little raw after some decent off road use. The LR3's flat black plastic trims are much more practical for that sort of use....

Not an LR4, but you get my meaning:

I'm thinking ARB for that very reason. Although I love the hidden winches on these rovers. Still undecided since I live in a big city and would only be taking a handful of trips a year. Oh yeah, and I still don't have an LR3-4.

 

[A.J.M]

From experience of off roading my D3 along with my mates D4s, mine being an early 04 model.

My D3 for the TR settings has the centre diff locking as ON or OFF. 99% of UK cars don't have the locking rear diff.
My mates D4 with locking rear has the locking going in stages of 1/3rd, 2/3rds then fully locked. I believe this is the same for later D3s but I don't know what MY it became standard in.

Both have the same TR settings. The D4 is better due to refining the idea over the years.
I'm not sure about bushes wearing out, I haven't heard of any wearing out so far. That's not to say it won't be found out that they do were out and need changed.

 

[Mack73]

There are some posts about a frame bracket that is a hindrance on LR4s with bigger tires. IIRC, the same bracket can be simply unbolted and moved on an LR3.

Weld on bracket started with the 08 LR3. So 05-07 had a bolt on that could easily be removed to run larger tires. Starting in 08 it changed to weld on. It doesn't foul my 31.5" tires but does rub a little when the tires are new. So if you want to run 32" on a late LR3 or LR4 expect to cut/weld the bracket to get full articulation without rubbing.

 

[spammer]

Weld on bracket started with the 08 LR3. So 05-07 had a bolt on that could easily be removed to run larger tires. Starting in 08 it changed to weld on. It doesn't foul my 31.5" tires but does rub a little when the tires are new. So if you want to run 32" on a late LR3 or LR4 expect to cut/weld the bracket to get full articulation without rubbing.

This is good info. 05-07 = 32" tires, 08+ = 31.5" tires. Not sure it's a deal breaker one way or another, but thanks for clarifying this. Maybe I won't pass up a low mileage 07.

 

[Derel1cte]

Where is this bracket that needs relocation on LR3s? I have a '05 LR3 and I'm running 32.6" tires without a rubbing. The only modifications I've made aside from a lift were to relocate the height sensor in the left front wheel well to the top of the frame rail and I trimmed the front edge of the plastic front wheel well liners.

 

[axels]

2,500 miles later, I'm still rubbing a little with my 31.5" on my 2010 LR4.
I'm still considering cutting part of that frame horn (it doesn't need much off).

 

[roverandom]

For off road use? Get the LR3. It's cheaper so you will be able to use the cash saved to upgrade stuff like bumper, wheels/tyres winch and skid plates.
It's also not as bad scratching up a $15k vehicle as opposed to a $50k vehicle.

However, all things being equal if it is an off roader you want I would just keep and upgrade the Rangie. A well built RRC or D1 with a good driver will run rings around any modern LR.

My 2c.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[spammer]

For off road use? Get the LR3. It's cheaper so you will be able to use the cash saved to upgrade stuff like bumper, wheels/tyres winch and skid plates.
It's also not as bad scratching up a $15k vehicle as opposed to a $50k vehicle.

However, all things being equal if it is an off roader you want I would just keep and upgrade the Rangie. A well built RRC or D1 with a good driver will run rings around any modern LR.

My 2c.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I hear you on the RRC. The only problem is after riding for a couple years in an air suspension RRC, I've become spoiled. RRC w/ air > springs, but not for off-roading.

Also, LR4's can be had for less than $30k now if you look. 2009 LR3's can be had for around $20-25k. That still isn't cheap but it's getting there.

 

[frank84]

If you are worried about ride quality on the RRC, put medium duty OME springs, perhaps a small spacer for added height if needed, and the lighter valved OME shocks. Adjust tire pressures according to the terrain and I think it rides great. Or spend an afternoon in a Series and get back into your RRC with any suspension combo and you'll think it rides like you're on air.

 

[Red90]

OME springs and shocks are not the path to a soft ride.... However, it is simple to make it ride much softer than an air sprung truck.