Oil Question

[Tim.plante]

This Sunday I hope to set the timing on rig then change the fluids. do you guys think 15w40 would be okay oil to use..I had a smoking problem before so I went to 10w40 and that kept it from smoking after it had warmed up. So my logic is to go up in grade...will this be okay for the engine or could me switching to 10w40 have caused my head gasket to go? thanks in advanced guys

 

[kuroi]

10w40 didnt cause your head gasket to fail. And id stay with the 10w40 as opposed to the 15w40

 

[SoCalMonty]

This Sunday I hope to set the timing on rig then change the fluids. do you guys think 15w40 would be okay oil to use..I had a smoking problem before so I went to 10w40 and that kept it from smoking after it had warmed up. So my logic is to go up in grade...will this be okay for the engine or could me switching to 10w40 have caused my head gasket to go? thanks in advanced guys

At running temperature, your 10w40 and 15w40 are identical viscosity. They're essentially the same oil. The only difference is that in cold temperatures, the 15w behaves fractionally thicker than the 10w.

Unless it regularly falls below freezing where you are, I would pretty much ignore the "W" rating...this engine isn't particularly fussy, and most modern day oils do the job well. The difference between a 10 and a 15, or a 15 and a 20W rating isn't substantial IMHO.

 

[Tim.plante]

thanks for the info...i know everyone has their own opinion on oil but what would be a good oil for a truck with 200,000+miles

 

[kuroi]

Any quality name brand oil will fit the bill. You could also go with one of the "high milage" oils if you want, not sure if there's actually an appreciable difference though.

 

[SoCalMonty]

thanks for the info...i know everyone has their own opinion on oil but what would be a good oil for a truck with 200,000+miles

I've read good things about the Mobil1 High Mileage formula...it's got more of the good additives in it (I read Bob the Oil Guy's website from time to time). I'd stay with the recommended viscosity unless the engine is consuming or burning oil - if that's the case, I'd jump to the next thicker oil (30 to 40, 40 to 50, what have you). These are pretty robust engines...hopefully she's still got a lot of life left in her!

 

[Tim.plante]

"hopefully she's still got a lot of life left in her! "

Man I really hope she does...she is actually my first car and Im hooked...only thing that will replace her is an 99 SR model..im sure id replace a lot of parts before I fully replace her though.

 

[SoCalMonty]

It all depends on how it was taken care of before you got her. If she was a cream puff, and you use top of the line fluids at regular intervals, I wouldn't be surprised to see 300k miles before it needed something major (bottom end rebuilt, possibly heads rebuilt). Heads aren't even that expensive if you can remove and install them yourself. The bottom end takes a lot of time, patience and tools for a DIY though.

 

[Tim.plante]

It all depends on how it was taken care of before you got her. If she was a cream puff, and you use top of the line fluids at regular intervals, I wouldn't be surprised to see 300k miles before it needed something major (bottom end rebuilt, possibly heads rebuilt). Heads aren't even that expensive if you can remove and install them yourself. The bottom end takes a lot of time, patience and tools for a DIY though.

Before i had her she was owned by a soccer mom who got it from a repo place...so as to its whereabouts before that i have no clue...but the 4wd worked well and for 2000 it was mine so i took it..cause at 17 i wanted to go hang out in the Styx with my buddies... two years later had to replace both heads after the passenger side failed on the interstate and now im putting it back together and once shes all back together ill cross my fingers and turn the key...and pray that by the time i have to replace the bottom end ill i have an SR in my reach

 

[SoCalMonty]

Heck, I'd keep the LS if you've already replaced the heads! It wouldn't cost much to install an SR rear axle so you'll have the locker...then once you lift it, the only thing your LS won't have would be plastic fender flares. Hardly a reason to ditch the LS for an SR.

 

[Tim.plante]

How hard is it to put in a rear axle? Im 99.9% sure I've done a good job on replacing the heads...I'll find out for sure once i turn the key cause i dont claim to be a mechanic by far. But everything else has seemed fairly straight forward. The main reason I was thinking of replacing it was to get a rear locker and a engine with less than 221k on it

 

[geocrasher]

As far as I understand it, the rear axle swap is not hard. Certainly less difficult than doing heads on a motor. Mitsubishi engines are VERY durable, I wouldn't sweat the 221k miles on it.

 

[Tim.plante]

well i hope all major repairs are behind me now and I can do a shake down and take my nephew camping this new years. and then focus on physical mods to get her ready for weeks of camping at a time