Oil weight in an FZJ-80

[Schattenjager]

I put Mobil 1 10-40 High Mileage (M1 HM) in today - made a nice difference. Quite operation, seemed to run smoother, but that is subjective of course and the power felt nice and smooth too. Had a great conversation with Mobil customer service - they really took care of me with information and even a discount on a retail purchase of a case of the Mobile 1 HM. That high mileage formulation has a lot of benefits especially motors with slight leaks or burning issues. Oil does in fact form a 'seal' around the bottom piston ring, further enhancing performance and preventing oil burn off, thus 'consumption.' I used a Mobil 1 filter, so it will be interesting to see what it looks like in 3K miles. I ran one change through of the HM stuff in 48 hours and it turned dark pretty quickly - I was told this is the special detergents at work. I flushed with another change of dino, let it come up to temp, and then drained that for the final fill of the M1 HM 10W-40. Whew.

 

[ntsqd]

The oil ring's job is to scrape most of the oil off the cylinder wall as the compression rings need very little oil for lubrication. Oil left behind by the oil control ring is what will get burnt.

 

[Klierslc]

I put Mobil 1 10-40 High Mileage (M1 HM) in today - made a nice difference. Quite operation, seemed to run smoother, but that is subjective of course and the power felt nice and smooth too. Had a great conversation with Mobil customer service - they really took care of me with information and even a discount on a retail purchase of a case of the Mobile 1 HM. That high mileage formulation has a lot of benefits especially motors with slight leaks or burning issues. Oil does in fact form a 'seal' around the bottom piston ring, further enhancing performance and preventing oil burn off, thus 'consumption.' I used a Mobil 1 filter, so it will be interesting to see what it looks like in 3K miles. I ran one change through of the HM stuff in 48 hours and it turned dark pretty quickly - I was told this is the special detergents at work. I flushed with another change of dino, let it come up to temp, and then drained that for the final fill of the M1 HM 10W-40. Whew.

That is an expensive oil change.....

 

[Schattenjager]

That is an expensive oil change.....

Sorta - Mobil 1 gave me a $25.00 coupon toward a case purchase, which helped a lot. This routine was planed - to a degree. I had the old dino already so the out of pocket was not as bad as it might seem for this particular change. Other things transpired which made the dino flush seem appropriate. Think of it as baselining the lubrication system.

From this point forward, I am going to look at only adding a quart of fresh M1 HM as it burns off - which will hopefully be much slower with the heavier weight. Then I will be changing the oil filter every 4K miles or so. End result should be never really needing to do a full oil change again. Not that it won't happen, but this is the theory for today.
:ylsmoke:

 

[Klierslc]

Sorta - Mobil 1 gave me a $25.00 coupon toward a case purchase, which helped a lot. This routine was planed - to a degree. I had the old dino already so the out of pocket was not as bad as it might seem for this particular change. Other things transpired which made the dino flush seem appropriate. Think of it as baselining the lubrication system.

From this point forward, I am going to look at only adding a quart of fresh M1 HM as it burns off - which will hopefully be much slower with the heavier weight. Then I will be changing the oil filter every 4K miles or so. End result should be never really needing to do a full oil change again. Not that it won't happen, but this is the theory for today.
:ylsmoke:

Huh,

I did that on my 81 toyota 4x4 pickup except with penzoil, no filter changes and the oil was leaking rather than burning. It made it from 180k to 270k before the bottom end gave out.....

 

[Mike S]

My '96 80 have been running 5-30 Synthetic (Castrol first, then Mobil One) at 5K SI since break-in. Zero issues, no oil burning and we're at 155K miles right now. Runs very quiet and smooth.

 

[Pskhaat]

Exactly.. Thats why i put in whatever i have laying around. Another reason why i don't spend the money on 92 octane.. that motor doesn't even know what 92 is.

I go in the middle here.

I do run M1, but I run it for at least 1 year and likely 12k+ miles, I don't have time to be changing oil every 3k miles. I then drain it, capture it and run it in my commuter car. It pays for itself.

When towing, laden or off-highway in 100F+ weather I however believe there is some value in the 91+ octane gasoline as off-start pinging is significantly reduced.

 

[Schattenjager]

Update - I've put about 2K miles on the 10-40. The engine is quieter and it feels much better going up the mountain passes. Consumption has not changed, but it does seem to be oozing less. I power washed the undercarriage and it has remained clean. Perhaps it is a bit early to make a call there. No perceptible change in MPG, either. Overall, I'm happy with the switch.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Schattenjager..just finished reading this thread and was curious where you were "oozing oil" from? If you mentioned I must have missed it.

I was loosing about 0.5 to 1 quart about every 3k to 4k miles. But i was almost entirely due to a seeping oil pump cover seal. Which this past Friday I changed along with the front main seal. So far no leaks.

I too just switched from 10W-30 to 15W-40 and notice higher oil pressure on the gauge and mine too runs much smoother.

 

[Aids10]

I've been using Castrol Edge 5W-30 (Synthetic)
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9027819&contentId=7050795

Hope this is a good one? :safari-rig:

 

[powderpig]

I did a quick search on Mud for oil viscosity chart and looked for a couple of minutes. There are a few threads on this subject from the past that will fit your needs. But I did copy this below for a tease.

I got the AU viscosty from Andrew at 80school
1fzfe motor
20w50 oil- -7 deg to 38 plus 19 f to 100 f
15w40 oil -10 deg to 38 plus 14 f to 100 f
10w30 oil -18 to +38 deg 0 f to 100 f
5w30 -30 to 8 deg celcius -22 f to 46 f (WI weather)


Taken from a thread in 2005. A bit different then what we have here in the states.
I have not used anything less then syn since the last 80 in all my Toyota, and all on a 10 mile oil change schedule( I do a bit more than 10k a year). I also run the best filter I can find, currently it is the japanese 20004 filer that I can only get from one place. I use and have been using 5w40. Even when I lived in Alaska for my youth.
Happy reading over on Mud, and making your choice.

 

[Pskhaat]

Love the 20004s but why not the 41010s which are at least still available?

 

[powderpig]

It is a paper element still. I like the fully synthetic medium that the Toyota Filter has, no paper to mess up. No real need for a big filter like the 41010s, unless it is a paper one that can go 10miles as well. Pretty soon, it may be the only option I would buy for my cruiser(as it is harder for Dan to get the filters). Filters great, has long life. I also have been running a magnet on the out side of the filter. Not that cheap, but works great. You would not believe how much small metal is floating in the oil. A fun experiment that I tried over 10 years ago and have keep with it as well.
Cheers