One-Way Ticket: Colorado to South Sudan

Containerized

Adventurer
Haven - I've heard of some issues with the quality of gasoline, so you have to be careful, but most places have gasoline available. Thankfully, I haven't put anything through the FJC that it's disliked. I'd say the area near the Kenya/SSudan/Uganda tripoint is one of the hardest places to get fuel, but the FJC with four 20L cans on the roof has a fair amount of range. Sometimes fuel is insanely expensive, for instance in Somaliland, but it's available. Diesel tended to be "fresher" historically since they run through a lot of it for heavy trucks, but the explosion of the light (75 and 100cc) motorcycle market in East Africa means that petrol is available almost anywhere. Some places the fuel pump is still something you spin in a big circle, but it's a working pump. As with anywhere, major stations (Shell, Total, Libyoil) have better supply chain, fresher fuel, and better quality control than local guys.
 
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Containerized

Adventurer
My conclusions from the past more-than-a-year are the following... this is only a portion of them, but maybe the things most helpful to others planning expeditions.

1) The availability of mobile telephony and mobile internet has improved vastly in the past few years. With a simple 12v DC circuit and one additional fuse in your box, you can have wifi on your truck. Even if only from a safety standpoint, it's worth having. But it's also a vital communications asset, with the ability to use Skype for international calls, etc.
2) Overall, I would say of these places the wildlife in northern Uganda is the most underrated (and the wildlife in Kenya, while beautiful, the most overrated). I would say that if you want to take one drive to a park in East Africa and really have "the experience," that Kidepo is the park to visit (South Sudan).
3) The security concerns in Somaliland and South Sudan in particular seem quite overblown. While the situation now in South Sudan is more tense than it was even a month or two ago, for the most part this country is beautiful expanses of unpopulated space. The rugged terrain and fascinating people are worth visiting.
4) I've re-thought the vehicle for the next expedition, and though it will be Tacoma-based rather than FJ-based, I do think the FJC has about the right length and wheelbase for an expedition vehicle. Its big weakness is the amount of enclosed load space available without removing the rear seats.
5) The cost of containerized shipping has declined substantially, especially on major port routes, and now it is much harder to make the roll-on-roll-off ("roro") argument versus containerizing. Especially if you can get a good rate on the origin port fees.
6) My girlfriend, who is the one with the medical background, has totally rethought our first aid and trauma kit through this process. It began with a small backpack with the basics, a suture kit, etc. Now it's a whole 1520 Pelican case.
7) Related to #6 above, we took a four-day field medicine course together focused on post-conflict zones and found it very helpful. Though much of the material was a review for her, much of it was new to me, and it made us more confident dealing with other (non medical) problems in the field. It also was an excellent teamwork exercise. I would highly recommend this.
8) Don't underestimate the importance of a reliable food supply. We are adventurous eaters and pretty talented at preparing meals in bush conditions. Nevertheless, we found ourselves stuck more than once. The additional weight of that chocolate bar or half bag of granola is negligible and it could completely change you and your co-driver's morale one morning as you pull out of the village. Think about it.
9) We have been very pleasantly surprised by the Garmin East Africa map. It is excellent and works well with the Garmin Nuvi-series units. I highly recommend it for anyone traveling in Uganda, Kenya, South Sudan, or Somaliland. Its coverage of Ethiopia is questionable, but there are good UN and Italian maps available of all major roads in Ethiopia. I would also highly recommend the trans nile ferry maps (available in Kinshasa, Arua, Kaya, and other places), which show both routes and schedules and are published often (laser printed); the old maps marked "Series 93" or "Series 95" are not accurate and do not correctly portray the ferry patterns, particularly on the Albert Nile.
10) This is a learning experience. A lot of what we've learned on the road is to let things go. Both of us have "loosened up" a lot. The key is to survive today and do it better tomorrow. Trying to do more than that is just a recipe for disappointment.

Travel safely. Until next time... I look forward to writing another of these posts next year.
 

toymaster

Explorer
Excellant post!!! I enjoyed it and it brought back some memories. Did not realize I missed Africa so much! When you get back from a journey like that it makes you realize you do not need as much in life as you thought you did.
 

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
Awesome report. I spent some time in that area and recognized many sites.

Can you tell me more about Somaliland? As far as I know, very few self-driving foreigners go there. Did you drive alone?

How hard was it to get visa? Which border did you enter/exit?

thank you!
 

Containerized

Adventurer
Warrenpfo - Huawei makes a series of these units that accept USB dongles from overseas (African and Asian) Internet providers. There is a powered port (USB 2.0) on the device, plus an Ethernet plug for any devices that don't have wifi. Other than that, it works just like a regular router. I suspect it is Cisco-based (or a Cisco licensed clone), as its setup log-in at IP address 192.168.1.1 is very similar to Cisco's WRT54/64 line of routers. The key is to make sure you have the 12v for something like this router on a separate circuit, as it's not really made for an application like this and you want to make sure it's stable. I put an in-line DC controller in the door (probably not necessary) just to make sure a power surge (during winching or jumping, for instance) wouldn't fry this. Remember also, obviously, that this should be grounded locally to the device.
 

Containerized

Adventurer
Christian,

Good questions. I had no issues with Somaliland and the visa was easy to obtain. I had traveled there before, so I knew a local commander and had dealt with the "embassy" (not much of an embassy, more of a small cubicle on the top floor of an office park building in London's East End) before. I had a very friendly conversation with the staffer there, discussing the region and my plans, and he was eager to have me as a tourist. As an index of how many visas are issued there (not many), my previous Somaliland visa #138 (three month, single entry) was issued December 6, 2010. My current one is #167 (one year, unlimited entry) was issued October 5, 2011. So in about one year I suspect London only issued about two dozen tourist visas.

Here is my current visa, for reference:

IMG_1556.jpg


As you know, half the battle with planning this sort of thing is the paperwork:

IMG_1559.jpg
 

Aubrey

Observer
Welcome to Africa!

Do you use a GPS? There is a group in Africa (www.tracks4africa.co.za) that is compliling actual GPS data into maps for the continent. Please have a look at the website ...... the maps work on Garmin and all new data is very valuable as you well know ...... roads markings and directions in Africa can be a hit and miss affair. You can also download online so you could be fully aware of just how lost you are in minutes :D Please don't hesitate to contact me aubrey.r.moore "at" gmail.com if you need assitance. I am in Johannesburg but have contacts widely dispersed

I see you carry a lot of stuff in North Face bags ....... have a look in Nairobi or Dar es Salaam (maybe even Kampala) at a 4x4/camping store and ask for Wolff packs ...tough as nails and used by most African travellers ...stack easily and are robust.

What do you use for water in remote areas? Boiling ? Chemicals??

I am enjoying the story ......keep it coming :D

Cheers

Aubrey
 
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Containerized

Adventurer
Aubrey - Thanks for the tips. Will look into the GPS database though, as I said, I've been pretty impressed with Garmin's East Africa map and it's pretty easily augmented/modified.

On the bags, I've been traveling with TNF Base Camp bags for years and have gotten two free ones, even when the bag's destruction was completely my fault. No complaints. I'd say 80% of our stuff is TNF or Prana and I have no complaints about either. For dry or fragile stuff, we have half a dozen Pelican cases that have served us well.

We boil water at home in Uganda (our water comes from a local borehole and we have a tower tank at the house) and when on the road. Three minutes at rolling boil.
 

maxingout

Adventurer
Awesome trip report.

I love that section of the world. When I lived in Arabia, I visited the Emirates and Oman by road. And when we sailed up the Red Sea, we stopped in Oman, Yemen, Sudan, Eritrea, and Egypt which were very interesting. I would love to visit the same areas again in my own vehicle. There are advantages doing to the trip by land as compared to doing it by sea.
 

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