Only in a Montero/Pajero ...

SOFpirate

Adventurer
Well ... I have a crazy story and a lesson to be learned.

So, we went down to Orlando (again) for a second attempt at a little mini vacation. A few days of driving around that dreadful town really took it's toll on poor Large Marge. The alternator needle bearings seized and failed all at once. By the way, we were 45 miles from anywhere, and the closest tow truck was 4 hours from getting to us! I had myself, wife, two kids, and her grandmother in our vehicle. 30 seconds into the ordeal, the griping began. I decided right then and there, to remove the alternator belt, and continue home, and hope that my Optima Red Top would hold us over, seeing as it was also getting dark. The funny thing is that the alternator gave no indications of bearings going bad, not even the typical screeching and grinding that comes with it. So, we made it back the 45 miles on the battery, and as usual, the truck started to go into "fail-safe I'm a Montero and I'm going to get you home no matter what" mode.

Let me explain what happens in this mode from first hand experience.

1.) Our 4WD systems are backwards in the sense that if they fail, they fail INTO 4WD, so if you are somewhere, and the vacuum solenoid fails, or the battery loses juice, it fails into 4 so you can make it home no matter what. So you can figure out what happened. Battery light came on, my voltage meter started dropping, A/T light came on, and the truck started to try to throw itself into 4HI. I pushed the lever up into 4HI and drove like that (since it isn't going to hurt anything) on the interstate home. Mainly because I didn't want the Auto hubs trying to engage at interstate speeds. And if you've ever driven I-4 during rush hour, if you do 5 under the speed limit, you're toast.

2.) Everything runs at a degraded (but doesn't shut off) level. The truck won't start to pick and choose what to shut off. You make those decisions, but it will equally split the power between everything that needs it. But obviously, the a/c, radio, and other amenities were the first to go.

3.) Your water pump/thermostat will fail to wide open. Don't freak out. It's fine. But apparently our water pumps use some sort of electrical current to run, versus the belt driven kind. Correct me if I'm wrong, please. But this is what happened to me. The truck started running about 25 degrees (F) cooler. I accepted it and moved on (didn't have a choice really).

I drove home, monitoring for funny engine/drivetrain sounds and staring at the gauges until we pulled into the driveway of the inlaw's house. I'm in awe at what this vehicle did for us.

So, I went and bought a new alternator from AutoZone for about $120, but be careful, the core charge is $90. Replaced the alternator in the driveway with a 12mm and 15mm socket set. I did have to take the stock airbox and hose off, just to make it more accessible. I have the 3.0L SOHC.

After everything was replaced and plugged in and double and triple checked, I started the truck. Ran like new again. No funny sounds, no funny lights, nothing. SWEET!

... but the story isn't over.

Drove back into town the next day. Went to "the happiest place on earth". What happens in the parking garage? I all of a sudden hear a rattling coming from the engine. You can only imagine the new and improved expletives I came up with. Then all the lights in the world started going off. I shut the truck off instantly (10 seconds(ish) after I heard the rattling) and walked to the front. Nothing looked out of place. No fluids were on the ground. No smoke. Engine looked fine. My wife instantly thought that my in depth mechanical prowess in the replacement of the alternator was to blame for this breakdown. I hoped it wasn't. I had her start the engine real quick while I looked/listened for any funny signs. It was apparent. NONE of the pulleys were turning while the engine was running. Again, colorful expletives filled my vocabulary. I called for the tow truck.

While waiting the 3 hours for a tow truck alone (the wife and kids got picked up by the inlaws and taken back to the house) I had plenty of time with my smart phone and google. Turns out, there was a recall back in 1994 on the 3.0L engine for the crankshaft bolt. Apparently it had a tendency to snap in half and do exactly what my truck is doing.

Surely, I thought, that when I got the timing belt replaced and the new-owner maintenance on it, that would have been noticed. But the culprit WAS the maintenance. The Mitsubishi dealership that I had the truck towed to told me this: If you or someone other than a Mitsubishi tech replaces the timing belt, there's a tendency to over-torque the crankshaft bolt. If that is done, then it WILL snap off eventually. Who knew?

So now I wait, hoping that all we have to do is drill out the bolt and slap a new one in. I don't want to think worse case, but I'm pretty sure your minds can wonder about what damage can be done.

Endgame though, it took 196,000 HARD miles to finally break that truck. That is the first major issue this vehicle has had in it's illustrious 16 year lifespan, and with a little love, I can get another 196,000 hard miles out of it. I have no doubt that any other vehicle would have failed a lot worse than that, and have seen it. I've had friends belts break and the entire rig blow up (in other makes of vehicle not to be named here). I also now have renewed faith in our wonderful 3 red diamonds of domination vehicles.

I'm currently waiting until tomorrow to hear from the shop about what the true issue is.

Hindsight being 20/20, I think the brief moment of the alternator belt being seized up put enough resistance to the turning motor to push the already weak crankshaft bolt to it's breaking point. It just didn't at the time, but instead the truck drove for another 75 miles (after going back into town after replacing the alternator) before it gave out.

Holy crap, I love this truck.
 

scrubber3

Not really here
Nice story and glad you made light of the situation. It really is the best thing to do. I do want to clear a few things up for you though. These rigs do not have auto hubs. They are just flanges that keep the front drivetrain engaged at all times. I think the reason you thought it was trying to throw itself into 4 hi is because the low voltage was causing the indicator lights to flash or something to that nature. Next time keep it in 2wd as it will put less resistance on the engine. The thermostat and water pump are not electric whatsoever. Once again, it was low voltage/ amperage causing the temp gauge to drop. Just for future reference, watch how much you tighten the belts as this is probably why your harmonic crankshaft pulley snapped. Speaking of which, are you sure that the bolt didn't break prior to replacing the alternator? It could have been that sound you were hearing. The alternator belt goes to the rear of the crank pulley and I have seen the groves back there become loose as well.

How is that Gen 3 doing you?
 
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off-roader

Expedition Leader
I dont know about the gen II 3.0l engines but the gen I engines are non-interference so you break that bolt and IIRC all you have to do is replace it. Hopefully it's the same situation with the gen II engine design.
 

SOFpirate

Adventurer
Thanks for clearing up everything.

I'm fairly meticulous when it comes to keeping the vehicle running. There were no funny sounds whatsoever after I replaced the alternator. I think the bolt/pulley was on the way out and just needed time to commit suicide.

As for the Gen III ... LOVE IT! I used to drive it around back in high school when we first got it (shows how young I am ...). Our family are the sole owners of it. We bought it off the floor with 8 miles on it, 5 we put on in the test drive. Now it's got 98,000 and seen every corner of the US. I told Dad when he wants to get rid of it, I'll buy it off of him. But, I know that this current Gen II is going to turn into an impractical build project that will "force" me to get another DD. Also known as a Gen III build project. So ... in the coming months ... look for me to get a Gen III and start lightly modifying it.

You can really tell how Mitsubishi started going towards the rally truck design more when you get in and drive it. Tighter steering (even though mine could just be the years) is the biggest difference. That and those 4.9 gears .... WOOOOOO!
 

Inyo_man

Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.
I too thought the Gen III 3.5 and 3.8 SOHC came stock with 4.30.
I was under the impression that the Gen III TDI 5sp man. and the Gen. II TDI came with the 4.90. (However, I don't think these models were sold in the USA.)
 

SOFpirate

Adventurer
I'll look around the truck and see if I can find anything that says what it is. Should be on a little sticker in the glovebox or some sort of code, right?

I could actually swear that we got 4.9's in them here in the states ...
 

SOFpirate

Adventurer
Update on Large Marge:

Crankshaft Bolt = destroyed
Crankshaft sprocket = destroyed
New timing belt = destroyed
All 3 drive belts = destroyed
Radiator = destroyed
Upper and lower hoses = destroyed

Realizing that I still needed a Uhaul to drag all our crap home in a Ford Expedition that we fit in the trunk of the Monty = priceless.

Apparently when the bolt snapped, it fragged my radiator, hoses, and belts. Little pieces everywhere! We counted 12 holes in the radiator and hoses, the timing belt nearly snapped and got ruined under the pressure, and the drive belts all got fragged and torn up from little metal bolt pieces flying everywhere.

Common sense tells me to trash the motor and get a new one. I told common sense to go away and now I'm going to see how long I can beat down this motor until it completely gives.
 

mattyak

New member
Im always amazed at the resiliency of the Monty's

I've had two similar experiences in two of mine.

The first was around 190,000 on a '95 LS manual. Crank bolt snapped at 70 mph headed north on I5. All of a sudden I had all kinds of weird electrical issues. Imagine that. Pulled over. Tell you what that was scary. I5 beginning of rush hour between Vancouver and Seattle...The rig took up most of the shoulder.... popped the hood, (hmm belt seem to have slipped off a pulley.... hhhmmm nope seems a pulley is missing. yup.. there it is lying in the skid plate.)

Removed the belts pulled the pulley out. Fired her up and drove it to the nearest Exit ramp and convenience store and then on to the local "garage", you know the kind...

Long story short: 20+ miles no pulley or belts, 2 days later, 4 broken drill bits, 3 broken Snap-On easy outs, 1 night in a hotel one on the mechanics couch, no money left and a half paid bill I was back on the road. You never know who will help you out in a pinch. A big thanks to those who do.

2nd: 96 sr. Toasted the alternator. Hopped in fired her up and headed home. Ran out of juice as I pulled it into the garage. Not even enough spark to work the clock.
 

nomadsurfer

New member
Dredging up this ancient thread in appreciation of my ‘99 Montero.

Had my 1st experience with this “fail-safe” mode today. Alternator is apparently toast, as I was wondering why the clock, radio, cabin fan, windows, etc weren’t working all of a sudden. The warning lights eventually came on, and it continued to drive the 25 miles home otherwise as normal.

Got home, check the battery with voltmeter with engine running, had 12.35 volts. Pulled the negative and engine stopped. Simple, and definite alternator issue.

What amazes me is this truck has 307345 miles on it. In the past 5 years or so, Other than replacing the normal wear stuff, and some peeling clear coat, it drives like brand new. AC just quit last month, but it’s the original compressor too. Shifts smooth, tows fine, factory locker works perfect, goes anywhere I point it, all switches work…. It’s truly an amazingly quality vehicle. Still gets enough compliments to make my wife’s eyes roll too….

307345 and going strong!
 

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