Operation OverlanderZ - Lysol's 2014 JKUR Build

[lysol]

Inside the "Brain", I will have a few different "Hots" available to customize the way the switches work. From what I'm reading, the Jeep's CANBUS system can be tempermental so I will just put a 10A diode on each "Hot" switch wire. This will keep any spikes from travelling into these circuits. Also, it's required for when I run the Momentary override switch because the 12V from the battery would flow backwards into the dash lights giving them full 12V and potentially confuse the CANBUS.

Planned "Hot" switch wires at the moment (Each will have a power junction post inside the "Brain"):

Ignition On
High Beam On
Momentary Override On
Dash Light (w/Dimmer Control) On | *This might not actually be located in the "Brain" because it can just be routed behind the dash between where I tap the source and my switch locations.


I'm going to wire the Momentary Override switch to also allow me to use the (3) front light switches without needing the highbeams on, but I really can't think of a situation where I would need this unless the highbeam switch stops working which I guess could happen.... lol. I don't want to overcomplicate the system with an extra "auto(on with hi-beam)/manual(on)" switch for the front lights and since I already am planning the Momentary Override switch, I'll just piggy back off of that.

 

[Comanche Scott]

Great idea on the switch panel. Sounds like you've got it covered very well.

If you haven't already, check out these guys for some awesome switches
http://www.otrattw.net/home.php

 

[lysol]

Great idea on the switch panel. Sounds like you've got it covered very well.

If you haven't already, check out these guys for some awesome switches
http://www.otrattw.net/home.php

Oh definitely lol. I've contacted him a few times over the years. I will be doing mostly SPST w/independent lower LEDs so that the lower part of the switch will work with the dash lights and the upper part of the switch will turn on/off with the switch. I am planning on all switches having the lower part (always lit) in "Red" and "Text". The upper "dependent" part will be the logo of my choice and will light up when the switch is on. This way, I'll be able to quickly see which logo's are lit to tell which switches are on. I haven't completely decided on the upper logo LED color. I'm thinking about mixing them between Amber and Green to differentiate between them.

Do you have any of them? I have heard nothing but great things about them.

 

[Comanche Scott]

Not yet. I haven't mastered all the switches that come stock.
I'd just get confused and push the ejector seat button, when all I wanted was the butt heaters on....:coffeedrink:

Same as you, I've read only good reviews from people who use them. They have that clean OEM look, that I really like.

 

[lysol]

Finished most of my CB install last night. I just wired the box straight to the battery for now. Once I finish my relay box, I'll route it through that which will give me switched operability. Going to get my antenna tuned tonight at a place in Mannassas, VA. Only issue I have at the moment, is my Cooltech Ultramount (license plate mount) is about 1-2 degrees leaning to the left (away from the Jeep). I need to just pull it back out and drill the license plate box a little more so I can shift the mount to the right a little.

 

[lysol]

My first part of my relay box project is to figure out where I want to mount it under the hood. I need a spot that I can fit a big enough project-box. I need to see how much clearance I have on the passenger side. If I have enough clearance with the hood closed, I might just put it there on top of something and screw it down. I don't want to put it on top of the batteries.

In total in the box, I will have (2) 8-way lateral fuse blocks, (12) 30-amp SPST relays, (1) timed relay, (3) power junction posts, (1) 5-stud bus bar, and a ton of wiring... lol. I also want to install a master 100-amp circuit breaker with a manual reset but I think that would be best installed on the outside of the box. I want to keep all positive connections/wires covered so I'll have to find one that doesn't use exposed ring/post connectors. I'm also thinking of mounting (2) 8-position terminal barrier strips on the outside so that I don't have to run the accessory cables inside. This would also allow me to just use cable glands on the box to help water/dust proof the box.

 

[lysol]

Not yet. I haven't mastered all the switches that come stock.
I'd just get confused and push the ejector seat button, when all I wanted was the butt heaters on....:coffeedrink:

Same as you, I've read only good reviews from people who use them. They have that clean OEM look, that I really like.

The only issue I've read about the popular Contura V switches might need to be trimmed to fit in the Daystar lower switch panel. I'll have to see.

 

[Comanche Scott]

Pics, or it never happened...

What are your plans for a fire extinguisher and first aid kit?
That is next on my "mod" list.

 

[lysol]

Pics, or it never happened...

What are your plans for a fire extinguisher and first aid kit?
That is next on my "mod" list.

yea.... yea... yea... lol. Getting there. For the fire extinguisher, I have always believed that it should be accessible by the driver from the driver's seat. One good spot is to mount it to the bottom/back of the front passenger seat. That way, the driver can reach it quickly in an emergency. But... this would limit the rear passenger side footwell slightly.

 

[lysol]

Regarding the box for my relay box, I'm looking at a 12"(long) x 12"(wide) x 6" (tall) Carlon (model # - E989R-UPC): $33

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...-E989R-UPC/100404149?N=5yc1vZbohnZ2dqZ1z116nv

Not sure if it's too big or not. It would be nice if it does fit because I would have plenty of space to work with. I might even be able to put the Blue Sea dual-battery charger inside. I'll have to do some testing with the space before I buy it. $33 at Home Depot isn't bad for a weather proof plastic box. One issue I'm worried about though is heat. A plastic box of this size could possibly warp in the heat under the hood.




EDIT - Though, these Hammond boxes are pretty neat:

http://www.hammondmfg.com/1554FSLP.htm

1554VB2GYSL - 9.4"(long) x 6.3"(wide) x 4.7"(tall)


(disregard the part# in the pictures. It's not the one with the measurements above)

 

[shays4me]

The only issue I've read about the popular Contura V switches might need to be trimmed to fit in the Daystar lower switch panel. I'll have to see.

I have the contura switches from otrattw in the daystar panel. They fit the panel well, since you have to cut out the blanks anyway, taking a minute or two to file the sides and fit the switches is no big deal. There are five positions on the panel for newer JK models, and I've found that I should have avoided mounting a switch in the left position due to inadvertently turning my driving lights on every time I shift out of four wheel drive. I haven't melted the covers on the lights yet, but they've been toasty hot! Aslo, be aware that the green leds in the otrattw switches do not match the interior oem switch lighting.

 

[lysol]

I have the contura switches from otrattw in the daystar panel. They fit the panel well, since you have to cut out the blanks anyway, taking a minute or two to file the sides and fit the switches is no big deal. There are five positions on the panel for newer JK models, and I've found that I should have avoided mounting a switch in the left position due to inadvertently turning my driving lights on every time I shift out of four wheel drive. I haven't melted the covers on the lights yet, but they've been toasty hot! Aslo, be aware that the green leds in the otrattw switches do not match the interior oem switch lighting.

Thanks for the info!!! I didn't think about that left switch.... hmmm.... That is going to be my temporary 30-minute ignition override switch.

 

[Comanche Scott]

Wonder if the smaller box would fit over in the area where the sPod box normally goes?

I saw a few pictures with the small 2.5lbs fire extinguishers mounted to the outside rail on the driver's, and passenger's seat rails. Kind of sandwiched them between the seat and the door. I was considering this, and adding a 5 lbs bottle in the back. Just need to figure out a theft deterrent device for when it's parked with the top down. Maybe just a small lock, to keep the "honest" thieves at bay.

 

[lysol]

So... I just got back from getting my CB radio tuned. The guy did it fast, but when I asked him what the SWR read, he just said "This is the best it's going to get..." He must have had a bad day because he was being a total ********. I guess I'm just going to have to get my own SWR meter... I drove 20 miles back down highway 66 from Manassas back to Fairfax and didn't get a single contact. I have to turn the squelch up pretty high to get rid of the static.

I wonder if I'm getting interference from the power wire or something. I mean, I grounded the antenna with a 10AWG cable to the frame...

 

[lysol]

Wonder if the smaller box would fit over in the area where the sPod box normally goes?

I saw a few pictures with the small 2.5lbs fire extinguishers mounted to the outside rail on the driver's, and passenger's seat rails. Kind of sandwiched them between the seat and the door. I was considering this, and adding a 5 lbs bottle in the back. Just need to figure out a theft deterrent device for when it's parked with the top down. Maybe just a small lock, to keep the "honest" thieves at bay.

I need to play around with some cardboard box replicas of the dimensions and see how they fit. I could also probably fab up a metal bracket out of aluminum rail or something. hmmm... the endless possibilities. I love having so many options with the Wranglers. With my old Tacoma, space was always my #1 issue with everything be it tires or just trying to mount something hidden...

Good call on the fire extinguisher mount. I forgot the Wranglers have space there. The "behind-the-passenger-seat" idea was for my wife's Grand Cherokee.