Options for replacing Nut and Bolt...

TJVach

Observer
Hey folks,
I have a Garvin Wilderness Rack on my Jeep TJ and for this past summer I have used wingnuts for the front two bolts that hold the rack to the frame so it is easily lifted to remove the top. A problem that I am having is that they always seem to come loose after a while and it seems kind of sudden when it does happen. My thought was maybe to use the type of "nut and bolt" setup that is on bicycle wheels with the little lever to tighten it down. Do they sell just the "nut and bolt"? What do you all think of this? Any other options/opinions? Thanks a bunch.

And yes I am planning very well ahead of time for next summer seeing as how summer is almost over.....lol :)
 

Kilroy

Adventurer
Interesting idea. I have a Garvin rack also. I don't put the top down much because it's too much trouble. I like the locking idea. I'm going to check on that myself.
 

Ruffin' It

Explorer
Safety Wire?

Have you thought about safety wiring the wing nut? Could be a pain if you are removing the rack often, but pretty reliable.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Old trick similar to safety wiring the nut is to use a spring where you would have put the wire. Put it in tension on the side of the nut that would have to stretch the spring in order for the nut to work loose, and tack weld a little tab next to a flat on the bolt head so that the bolt can't spin.

For the bicycle QR idea, have a look at the QR seat post clamps as they are quite a bit shorter than either axle's QR.

There are also pin similar to the "pip" or "pit" pin (same thing), only instead of simply having a ball detent they expand when the lever is cammed over. Because of the way they work I would expect to get a little draw-up as well as body expansion from camming the lever. Check ReidTool.com or McMaster for those.
 
Last edited:

TJVach

Observer
ntsqd said:
Old trick similar to safety wiring the nut is to use a spring where you would have put the wire. Put it in tension on the side of the nut that would have to stretch the spring in order for the nut to work loose, and tack weld a little tab next to a flat on the bolt head so that the bolt can't spin.

For the bicycle QR idea, have a look at the QR seat post clamps as they are quite a bit shorter than either axle's QR.

There are also pin similar to the "pip" or "pit" pin (same thing), only instead of simply having a ball detent they expand when the lever is cammed over. Because of the they they work I would expect to get a little draw-up as well as body expansion from camming the lever. Check ReidTool.com or McMaster for those.

Alright I finally decided that I am WAAAAY over thinking this. I just stuck with the fender washer and lock nut, but I just went out and bought a 14mm ratcheting wrench that I will keep in the front of the cab at all times. I wanted to keep it as safe/structurally sound as possible but still practical and this was the best option.

Now that you have mentioned those two websites I will probably spend a lot more money THANKS A LOT!!! :)
 

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