Our Round-the-World adventure

[tacototheworld]

Yeah me too. Long time ago I was up climbing Aconcagua and saw lots of dirty snow & toilet paper. That plus the headaches and lethargy and starting a family changed my focus.

We've heard that there are roads being built up the valleys. Unfortunately the timing for us does not allow us to do the complete Annapurna circuit although we looked long and hard at it. Looks like we'll be doing some shorter routes.

 

[tacototheworld]

India - part 1

India was a country that we knew would be challenging as overlanders. We had heard the horror stories about the hectic, dangerous driving, incredible crowding, and grim poverty in the largest slums in Asia. We entered the country with a high level of trepidation. Even though all the above was true and surviving it was a milestone, India was also an incredible cultural journey that we would not have missed.

With our low expectations about what our experience would be like, we ended up being pleasantly surprised. India won us over. It is not a country to travel expecting glorious wild camping, nature experiences or scenic vistas. Instead India is about understanding the people, the Hindu and Buddhist faiths, exploring cultural sites, intricately beautiful ancient architecture and eating extraordinarily tasty food.

Our four week 7,000 kilometer route through India

Our first stop in India was Amritsar where we took care of all the basic necessities of entering a new country - ATM for money, purchasing auto insurance, stocking up on food (and even some beer and wine after a few weeks in the dry country of Pakistan).

Immediately upon entering India we could see the cultural aesthetic which incorporated artistic whimsy everywhere. Buildings were colorfully adorned, often with symbols important to the Hindu religion. Most women dressed traditionally in gloriously colorful saris. The black and white world of Pakistan receded and life became technicolor.

People loved having their picture taken with us and requests for selfies were constant - so we returned the favor and took pictures of them.

The Golden Temple - most important holy site in Sikhism

Although we they were few and far between, we did find a few wild camping spots in the north.

Our first mountain town, Manali, was charming. First developed as a “hill station” - a place for the British occupiers to escape for cool mountain breezes, It now felt like a vacation spot for Indians escaping the heat and crowds of larger cities.

Built on a steep hillside, our parking options were limited in Manali, popped up here cooking dinner.

Naggar Castle, built in the 16th century, ruling seat of the Kullu region until the British took over and the royal Indian leader sold the castle to the British for a gun.

Hindu god Ganesh, god of wisdom and luck

Andy looking a little bewildered as he is served up his first thali at a roadside dhaba- about 30 different bowls of savory vegetable dishes accompanied by unlimited fresh naan - Indian flat bread. Total cost $4

View over Shimla - built along the steep hillside

Our next city was Shimla - capital of Himachal Pradesh at the base of the Himalayas and built along an incredibly steep hillside. We had a nightmare experience trying to drive the truck into the guest house we had booked (no wild camping to be had in the region). The roads were switch backed, single lanes which dead ended into spaces with nowhere to turn around. After some stressful unsuccessful explorations with Google Maps, we re-booked into a place we saw in the outskirts and parked, ready to explore on foot.

As far as restaurants, buying the kind of groceries that Dawn was used to cooking with was more expensive than eating locally at the many dhabas. We learned to plan for a relaxing lunch, usually waiting 45 mins for a freshly cooked meal.

Our next attempt to see a tiger was at Jim Corbett National Park. We were slightly more hopeful about seeing a tiger here and booked a safari (the only way to enter the park).

Tiger paw print

The first half of our time in India was almost over and we headed to Delhi where we planned to find a place to park the truck for a few months while we returned home to see family for the Christmas holiday season.

Actual site where Gandhi was shot and killed in 1948 by a Hindu nationalist

Sun going down on Safdarjung Tomb

Visiting the Red Fort (Lal Qila) in Delhi, another impressive Moghal building, this one dating to 1638

Entering the Taj Mahal grounds with the first crowds early in the morning

Posing for the classic photo

We visited Agra Fort with the same guide who took us to the Taj Mahal and his stories were equally fascinating at the fort. We learned of Shah Jahan’s plan to build a second Taj Mahal in memory of his beloved wife. But his son was concerned about him bankrupting the kingdom and sent him into exile at Agra Fort to prevent any more expensive building. The story goes that the son granted his father’s request to imprison him in sight of the Taj Mahal so he could enjoy the view and remember his wife.

Agra Fort, main residence of the leaders of the Mughal Dynasty until 1638 when they moved their ruling seat to Delhi.

And then we were back on the road to explore some smaller cultural sites. Our next stop was Fatehpur Sikri which although lesser known, was in many ways equally beautiful to Agra Fort or the Red Fort in Delhi.

Fatehpur Sikri Fort, briefly the capital of the Moghal Empire in 1571 until a lack of water forced them to move the capital to Agra

Working our way south, next we entered our favorite Indian state - Rajasthan. A spectacular cultural and architectural journey awaited us in cities filled with fascinating historic sites. The main three attractions - Jaipur, Jodhpur, and Jaisalmer are known as the "Pink City," "Blue City," and "Golden City," respectively, and they live up to their names.

Imposing entry gate into the pink city of Jaipur, capital of Rajasthan

Hawa Mahal, Jaipur’s most famous building - a palace built in 1799 with over 950 windows, allowing the women of the palace to view the action below on the street without being seen

While in Jaipur, we learned about Amber Fort on the hillside above and decided to throw in a last minute visit. It was one of those happy travel decisions - we thought it was one of the most impressive sites we visited in India. Even the tuk tuk journey up the hill was fascinating.

View approaching Amber Fort, residence of ruling maharajas. Built in the early 1600’s

Ceiling design


That's all for now

 

[Peter_n_Margaret]

Thanks for the memories Andy.
A few years back we toured India in company with a friend who grew up in Shimla. She explained that it was on the side of a hill, but it was not until we got there that we really understood.
I also worked there for a short time. Mostly in Deli and Mumbai.
India is an assault on all the senses.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

 

[ITTOG]

Great job. I loved all the photo's. I have always wanted to go to India and actually had a trip planned. Unfortunately while at the Singapore airport, I found out India did not have a tourist visa on arrival. So my trip changed to Bali. I am still upset about that snafu.

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

India, is one of the few places I (still) have no desire to visit. ( just specific to me, no detraction to anyone else)
Thanks for the post.

 

[ITTOG]

India, is one of the few places I (still) have no desire to visit.
Thanks for the post.

India is worth visiting on so many different levels/things. Just the food alone should be enough to get you there.

 

[YukonMontanaTannerTrapper]

I'm looking at that road map that you posted and I'm thinking that more of the good stuff is about to come. Please make multiple posts on what I percieve to be your next country to be visited.....and hundreds of pictures. We can take it.....we love it ! Expedition Portal needs you ! Thank you.

 

[ITTOG]

I'm looking at that road map that you posted and I'm thinking that more of the good stuff is about to come. Please make multiple posts on what I percieve to be your next country to be visited.....and hundreds of pictures. We can take it.....we love it ! Expedition Portal needs you ! Thank you.

I completely agree with you. More pictures would be a blessing for all of us. And yes, the apparant next country is exciting. Although India is exciting as well

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