out with the old in with the new

[westyss]

I will be using a marine hot water heater that will be plumbed into the motor to work as a heat exchanger. I don't know where to connect yet. The diesel system looks neat but its pricey, probably out of my range. How much was your unit? I'm thinking of adding a solar water heater to compensate for days we are not driving. Again the diesel is nice but I live in Florida so I don't need to have an extensive heating system.

Marine hot water heater?? What kind of heater is that? I would think something termed "marine" implies "more expensive" , my D5 was around $1100, came with everything needed for hook up including an extra fuel pump. What is the heater name that you are using, just curious, only problem I see with the hydronic is the amps used to heat the cabin, I will have another source for heat too.
being in florida makes it easier for sure, where I live it doesnt get too cold but winter time has its cold moments and we use the truck all year round, so heat is a must if I expect my wife to go with me!

 

[hdemetrious]

The marine hot water heater is Seaward. It's about $270 for galvanized steel 6 gallon unit, $389 for an aluminum unit. They work on 120v and hook up to your engine to use its heat. To add the solar hot water heater is another $500. The solar company is http://www.heliatos.com/Home.html. Where did you buy your unit from and what is your alternate heater?

 

[westyss]

Heater unit was purchased on ebay, and the other heater is a wave 3 cat.

Do you plan to power your water heater with battery and inverter?
How many panels will you use on the solar water heater? Do they work well? Its a good concept, just depends on how many panel are needed, that starts to increase the load up high on a rig though, 11 pounds each plus fittings and water, how does the water circulate? pump? Thanks for the link I'm going to read up on it.

 

[hdemetrious]

The marine water heater works without any power when when you are driving. The 120v option I plan on using if I'm hooked up or maybe with generator. I don't like either of those options because I won't be staying at places with hook ups and the generator is more for emergency. I don't think using an invertor would be efficient since it requires 1500 watts and around 45 minutes to warm up. That's why I want to go solar for the days I'm not driving.

The solar will probably will need two panels. I can use my water pump to circulate the water or they have a solar powered pump. I havnt purchased the unit, but I am seriously considering it. If you call the company they are very helpful.

 

[hdemetrious]

The marine water heater works without any power when when you are driving. The 120v option I plan on using if I'm hooked up or maybe with generator. I don't like either of those options because I won't be staying at places with hook ups and the generator is more for emergency. I don't think using an invertor would be efficient since it requires 1500 watts and around 45 minutes to warm up. That's why I want to go solar for the days I'm not driving.

The solar will need one panel (2'x2') for water to circulate through to get heat and another panel (1'x1') to supply power to the pump that circulates the water through the panel. The panel for heat is $100, the power panel is $75, and the pump is $60 plus the tubing and wiring. I haven't purchased the unit, but I am seriously considering it. If you call the company they are very helpful.

 

[westyss]

Converted my garage over from 'metal shop' to 'wood shop' and got going on the cabinets, 1/2" Birch ply for the kitchen area and 3/4" for the fridge unit.

Put the kitchen units in for a test fit, I am squeezing the calorifier up next to the roof actuator and I'm trying to to keep these two cabinets tight to each other.

Everything looked ok, so took some measurements, Removed them and set them up to epoxy coat the areas that will be in contact with gelcoat.

Gooped up.

Then to mount the calorifier, through bolted.

Installed!

Re-installed the cabinets, screwed it all together and test fit the fridge, its a tight fit!

Took the fridge out again! I need to move the fan to the opposite side so that it will be in the bathroom area and should be quieter ,it's been a couple of feet from my head so anything will be an improvement, not that its loud.

Installed the conduit that will have the water and electrics run's through the fridge unit and re-installed the fridge.

Feels good to get some noticeable progress!

 

[sarconcepts]

i'm sorry, i didn't see where you epoxied the velcro onto the back of the cabinets!

 

[pods8]

Throw back question: Where'd you end up sourcing your brush seals from and what are the specs on them? Hard to get a feel for brush seals based on catalog descriptions but yours seem to be working well. Debating on brush seals verse a rubber/foam lip seal right now...

 

[Billhilly]

And I've been going to ask for some photos of the foam (?) you added to them as well. How are they working now, and do you see yourself adding a set to the bottom of the 'top half'?

 

[westyss]

i'm sorry, i didn't see where you epoxied the velcro onto the back of the cabinets!

:hehe: you got me there!! Kinda lame interior build next to yours and the work Paul is doing! Oh well!

 

[westyss]

Throw back question: Where'd you end up sourcing your brush seals from and what are the specs on them? Hard to get a feel for brush seals based on catalog descriptions but yours seem to be working well. Debating on brush seals verse a rubber/foam lip seal right now...

Pod8, I got those seals from Fuller brush. 9C2500 strip holder and 8B9201 grey nylon brush, The brush is a good atmosphere seal but doesn't stop sound, so having a combo brush and rubber seal is what I have done ( removed for interior work ) I have a strip of foam rubber about 1/4" thick held in place with an angle and this has worked out well, I only tried it out a couple of times but does reduce the sound transfer to warrant it.

 

[westyss]

And I've been going to ask for some photos of the foam (?) you added to them as well. How are they working now, and do you see yourself adding a set to the bottom of the 'top half'?

Not sure what you are asking there?? If it relates to the seals, I dont have an in place picture, and they are mounted only on the top right ontop of the brushes and they barely make contact with the top sides, one of the principles of the atmosphere seal is hot air rises and cold air sinks, so cold air, unless pushed up by wind will not enter the camper, conversely, hot air wont escape the camper, it would need to sink to get out and it wont do that. I believe with no wind you could get away with no seals in that case. Now if it weren't for bugs I could have saved some time and money!!

 

[pods8]

I didn't catch that you added foam as well. My current plan is to use a bulb seal(maybe double bulb) in the gap between the top and bottom along the bottom edge of the top half, hope that made sense. Then I also wanted a lip seal at the top edge of the lower half, for the lip seal I want some extra sealing but I also want something to make sure stuff doesn't easily fall between the two walls, esp. since I've got two little boys... I had considered just doing a foam rubber seal, Frost king makes one in white for the top/sides of garage doors that is 1-3/4" wide with a bit of angle on it. Not sure how well it'll hold up with the windows crossing over it, a brush seal may wear better in the realm.

 

[Patman]

Kind of an off the wall questions.

Comparing your Westy to the FG, do you miss the walk through and "openess" of the westy interior vs. a seperate cab and camper box?

I love my Syncro, but constantly wish it was a little bigger and had a "real" 4x drivetrain. I have been toying with the idea of building sort of a big westy out of an FG or the like. Not really willing to give up the walk through or the forward control.

 

[westyss]

I didn't catch that you added foam as well. My current plan is to use a bulb seal(maybe double bulb) in the gap between the top and bottom along the bottom edge of the top half, hope that made sense. Then I also wanted a lip seal at the top edge of the lower half, for the lip seal I want some extra sealing but I also want something to make sure stuff doesn't easily fall between the two walls, esp. since I've got two little boys... I had considered just doing a foam rubber seal, Frost king makes one in white for the top/sides of garage doors that is 1-3/4" wide with a bit of angle on it. Not sure how well it'll hold up with the windows crossing over it, a brush seal may wear better in the realm.

A bulb seal would work well, but bulb seals dont bend around object well, so if possible use one bulb seal at the top of the inside wall, only thing with a bulb seal is while the roof goes up bugs can get in until the bulb makes contact, With only the brush on mine noise transfer was never controlled, the high density foam made it much quieter, it was kept inplace with an aluminum angle that was taped in position so was a temporary test, now with the interior getting finished I will make it a bit more eye pleasing and permanant. The brushes will bend around everything in its way so is a good option, just not good enough!
Keep in mind if using a rubber strip, the strip will want to flip so that it is always trailing, so when you reverse the direction of the roof it will bind while flipping. The strip will need to be not too tight up against the wall and that will make installing it harder, with the brush its no biggy.