Overland Frontier: Anza-Borrego Desert Iconic Trails & Oasis Journey

mercier@streetsmart.ca

Expedition Scout
Over 500 miles of 4WD roads and 100 miles of hiking/biking trails provide remote access into the largest desert state park in the US; badlands, sandstone canyons, palm tree oasis with trails ranging from easy-going sandstone canyon washes to narrow articulation-testing trenches, steep hill climbs and drop-offs.

When planning a new expedition, I often start by doing a web and Google Earth photo search to get a sense of the region. Anza-Borrego Desert brought up an incredibly diverse and compelling array of possible targets.

At the very top of the list, was Sandstone Canyon, located in the heart of the 1000 square miles of diverse terrain in the largest desert state park in the nation.


Sandstone Canyon by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

From there the search turned to the most interesting routes to reach Sandstone Canyon. How can you resist a trail with the compelling name, Diablo Drop-off?


Diablo Drop-off by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

Or Pinyon Mountain Drop-off, that has a gateway called the “Squeeze”?


The Sqeeze, gateway to Pinyon Mountian Drop-off by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Pinyon Mountian Drop-off by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

Or SoCal’s most popular off-road playground, Truckaven; narrow articulation-testing trenches, steep hill climbs and drop-offs above the Salton Sea.


Truckaven trenches by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

Unlimited selection of dispersed camping opportunities and some unique structure campgrounds.


Dispersed camping above Diable Drop-off. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Campground at Palm Canyon Oasis Trailhead by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

And what’s a desert expedition without an oasis?


Palm Canyon Oasis by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Palm Canyon Oasis by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

Then sprinkle in 130 metal sculptures, scattered across the desert floor.


Metal Sculptures near Borrego Springs by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

Of course any Expedition for OverlandFrontier.com, has to have an interesting storied past that can add depth and context to the journey. The first to jump off the page is The Great Southern Butterfield Overland Mail Stage Route that passed this way, the longest mail stage line ever operated.


Great Southern Overland Mail Stage Route by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

Giving away my age, I grew up with western Saturday matinees. The movie Stagecoach helped the Concord stagecoach become the iconic symbol of the old west and skyrocket the career John Wayne. And this region is where that romantic connection is rooted. The route section from Yuma across southern California was some of toughest on the line.


Stagecoach Movie Staring John Wayne. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

But this route had much deeper roots, in fact overlanders have been drawn to the oasis of this deserts for 6000 years followed by the Kumeyaay; evidence of these native seasonal camps and villages is everywhere.


Kumeyaay Natives to Anza-Borrego. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

One of the most sacred native sites is in Jacumba Mountain Piedra Grandes Cultural Preserve – the most beautiful rugged desert region we in Anza-Borrego we encountered.
Among Kumeyaay caves festooned with rock art, is the “Horse & Rider” pictograph, the oldest record of early Spanish exploration, likely the 1774 Juan Bautista de Anza expedition.


Piedra Grandes Cultural Preserve by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

Missionary Franciscan Garces, will be forever remembered by the overland community as the first European to cross the prehistoric native trade route, the Mojave Road. Besides his religious role, the expedition-save padre acted as a scout on the 1774 expedition led Juan Bautista de Anza across the desert that now carries his name.


Early Mexico Map of California by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

Anza and Garce teamed up for a second expedition that left Tubac in 1776 with 250 colonists and crossed the desert on their new Anza Trail, to settle a frontier outpost on the coast, an outstanding natural bay they named el río de San Francisco.


Tubac Presidio by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

The second historical inland route was discovered when Spanish soldiers came to rescue, after Padre Garces and all the male settlers were massacred during the Yuma Crossing Quechan Indian uprising. Returning from saving the woman and children, Captain Pedro Fages, blazed an offshoot of the Anza Trail, up the Carrizo-Vallecito Corridor, now Sweeney Pass and Box Canyon.


Spanish Expedition Force. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

In 1847, US Army scout Kit Carson used the all but forgotten trail to guided General Kearny and his “Army of the West” through the Anza-Borrego Carrizo-Vallecito Corridor to attack Mexicans in California.


Mexian-American War Battle of San Pasqual. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

The only religiously based unit in US military history, the Mormon Battalion, followed with heavy supply wagons that required broadening the pack trial to a wagon road.


Mormon Batallion by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

Timing was perfect, for just after the US won the Mexican-American War, gold was discovered in California in 1849 and many of the 100,000 who rushed to region, passed this way leading to the name of Southern Emigrant Road, that was also known as the Southern Overland Route Mail Road after 1858.


Emigrant Trail by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

If all this was not enough, add the oldest standing railroad wooden trestle, now abandoned, and only reached by an aggressive hike - you’ve got my attention.


Goat Canyon Trestle in Carrizo Gorge by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

With all of this in hand, Overland Frontier had all the fodder required for a new expedition. Given the storied past of this region we decided to call it the Anza-Borrego Desert Iconic Trails & Oasis Journey.

22)Anza-Borrego Overview Cover by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

It is easy to plan a pass-through route, if you know what type of terrain and attractions you like most. We wound up exploring a diverse cross-section that we have segmented into Two Trek Series Stages and Six Trek Legs.

Scouting Report Overview sample Page 3. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

The first series of Trek Legs in our Anza-Borrego scouting expedition provides an incredible array of terrain to choose from. Leg 1 of the scouting expedition starts on several Easy trails, just above the Mexican border, in the most beautiful rugged desert region in Anza Borrego encountered. Ancient tribes were attracted to the palm trees, a universal symbol for water and life. The boulder-strewn Jacumba Mountains supply relief from the afternoon sun and nesting sites for the golden eagle, an important spiritual symbol for the Kumeyaay natives, who still consider this Piedras Grandes cultural preserve sacred. We traveled up the iconic Butterfield Overland Stage Route to Blair Valley to explore prehistoric village and ceremonial sites. From there those looking for an Easy route to Sandstone Canyon, a must on any Anza-Borrego expedition, can jump to Trek Leg 4. Two more adventuresome routes into the canyon were explored. Trek Leg 2 starts Easy by traveling through Canyon sin Nombre and retracing surviving dirt sections of the Overland Stage Route. Trails became more technical as we scouted the Seco del Diablo (Dry Devil) and Tapiado loop leading to Diablo Drop-off, now a Moderate route after the parks department graded a portion. Trek Leg 3 provides a Difficult alternative through the more exciting “Squeeze and Pinyon Mountain Drop-off into Fish Creek. Both Leg 2 and 3 are narrow one-way routes. Leg 4 travels the Easy Fish Creek Canyon trails, our link to Stage B of this Journey.

Scouting Report sample pages 4 and 5. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

We stopped to tour the ancient seabed Wind Caves, as we traveled up the Easy sandy Fish Creek wash trails to the must-visit Sandstone Canyon, that starts Easy and ends with a short Moderate section. Leaving Fish Creek Canyon, Split Mountain Road heads northwest towards Borrego Springs on a flat desert region scouted for early Spanish emigrants, making their way to settle San Francisco Bay in 1776, spearheaded by Anza-Borrego State Parks namesake - Juan Bautista de Anza. We could not retrace the southern part of the original expedition, now off-limits, as it was used as a US navy bombing practice range during WWII. After wandering the Borrego Badlands, our original intent was to retrace Anza’s Trail up Coyote Canyon, but Google Earth geo-tagged photos of Palm Canyon Oasis combined with cooler weather lured us to the unique fireplace-camp structures at the oasis hiking trailhead (open fires are not allowed in the massive state park without containers). From there we retraced Truckhaven Road, an old trail cut by pioneer ranchers to reach markets in the, then, fledging community of Palm Springs. Along the way, we explored Truckaven Hills, a diverse range of Moderate and Difficult trails; thousands of acres of narrow articulation-testing trenches, steep hill climbs and drop-offs before exiting at the Salton Sea.

Scouting Report sample pages 6 and 7. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

To see the complete Free 22 Page Scouting Report Overview, go to overlandfrontier.com and:

http://www.overlandfrontier.com/journey/anza-borrego-desert-iconic-trails-oasis-journey

Also on this link you will find Trek Series Tracklogs of our scouted route live, on-line, in Google Maps/Satellite or you can download our free GPS/GPX Tracklog to your Smartphone, Tablet, Computer or Dedicated GPS device

Highlights of our detailed Scouting Reports will follow in future posts on this thread.

This Journey is part of Overland Frontier Three Nation Expedition that is being showcased in another EP thread:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...tion-To-From-Overland-Expo-Flagstaff-Ariizona
 
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mercier@streetsmart.ca

Expedition Scout
Trek Leg 1: Prehistoric Oasis, Goat Canyon Trestle & The Great Overland Stage Road.

Two generations of his family had served Spain in Mexico by the time Juan Bautista de Anza joined military service at 18 years of age. His father had died in an Apache attack before he could fulfill his desire to open a new overland route from Sonora, Mexico to Alta California, a privilege granted to him by the King of Spain. Anza would not only revenge his father’s death, but he would carry out his father’s vision of an overland road - the first Overland Road joining today’s Southern Arizona and California.


Overland Scouting Report Trek Leg 1 Cover Page by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Leg 1 of the scouting expedition starts just above the Mexican border, in the most beautiful rugged desert region in Anza Borrego encountered and the sacred grounds of Prehistoric Kumeyaay Indians.


Piedre Grandes Cultural Preserve by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Mortero Canyon Road travels south off the meandering Sweeny Pass byway, also known as the Imperial Highway, before it joins and shares the route of the Great Southern Overland Stage Route.


Piedre Grandes Cultural Preserve by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Fearful that other countries would claim Alta (northern) California, Spain's King Carlos asked Don Gaspar de Portolá, Governor of Baja to establish a series of Missions along the coast. The first ship landed in San Diego in 1769 with expedition parties. Prevailing winds from Baja made it difficult for Spanish ships to supply the new settlements. It became clear an overland road from Sonora Mexico connecting regions already settled by Spain in today’s Arizona, to Alta (upper) California, was required.


Overland Scouting Report Sample Page 4-5. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Overland Scouting Report Sample Page 6-7 by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

Two expeditions led by Juan Bautista de Anza passed this way while blazing the first Inland overland road to a new outpost called San Francisco. Our route starts near the Piedras Grandes Cultural Preserve and Indian Hill’s Shaman Cave site of the “Horse and Rider” pictograph, the oldest record of early Spanish exploration; likely the 1774 Juan Bautista de Anza expedition.


Piedre Grandes Cultural Preserve by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Overland Scouting Report Sample Page by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


The Jacumba Mountains are also home to a compelling natural wonder, the Carizzo Gorge, site of an incredible railway built in 1919, now abandoned. The big draw is the Goat Canyon Trestle, the tallest wood bridge of its kind standing in the US, a target for adventuresome hikers.


Overland Scouting Report Sample Page 15 by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Approaching San Diego and Arizona Eastern Railway by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


The Dos Cabezas Siding water tower, the last remaining railway station structure in the region, is a much visited and photographed relic of the San Diego & Arizona Eastern Railroad.


Dos Cabezas Siding by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


The trail that follows Carizzo Creek on the West side of the Wilderness will satisfy those looking for a road less traveled (see map on page 11 of Scouting report). The 4WD trail is rated Moderate, due to eroded rocky sections. The road has been closed to vehicle traffic a few miles short of the valley below the Goat Canyon Trestle (see upper left corner), but those looking for a real challenge hike up Carrizo Creek and scramble uphill to the base of the trestle.


Trail to Caririzo Gorge by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


We were running out of daylight, and wanted to explore Native American relics before days end in Blair Valley, so we choose to take the paved portion of the Great Southern Overland Stage route, saving the surviving dirt sections (below) of the route along the way, for Trek Leg 2 of this Journey .


Great Southern Overland Mail Stage Road by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


The Overland Stage Road route passes the Vallecito Stage Station built in 1854 (bellow – since restored/recreated in 1934) near an oasis used as a seasonal village by Kumeyaay Indians.


Valicitto Station1 by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Overland Scouting Report Sample Page 20-21 by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


The route had a very rich and colorful history before it became the most famous stage route in America.


Overland Scouting Report Sample Page 22 by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Overland Scouting Report Sample Page 23 by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


At the head of the Blair Valley, we stopped to hike up the old Foot & Walker Pass of the Overland Stage Route, named such because passengers had to get out and walk, so the team could make the grade.


Ovelrand Stage Foot & Walker Pass by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


The overgrown but still discernible section of the Overland Stage Route Foot & Walker Pass is limited to foot traffic for preservation. Looking up the grade makes it easier to see the pitch that forced passengers to walk behind the stage.


Ovelrand Stage Foot & Walker Pass by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


The first Spanish colonist settled in San Francisco June 9, 1776, just two weeks before 13 American Colonies declared their independence on July 4, setting the stage for the end of Spanish-Mexican rule in California.

Ironically, just days after The Guadalupe Hidalgo Treaty was signed on Feb, 2 1848, ending the Mexican-American War, leaving California in the hands of the US, gold was discovered at Sutter’s Mill. The 1849 Gold Rush would single-handily increase the population of 6,500 Californios (people of Spanish or Mexican decent) to over 100,000. Many Americans and new emigrants would use Anza’s Trail or the new Carrizo-Vallecito Corridor spin-off to reach the goldfields.

The route thereafter was also known as the Southern Emigration Trail.


Overland Scouting Report Sample Page 26-27 by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Overland Scouting Report Sample Page 28 by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


The Overland Stage Road passes through the head of Blair Valley, a prehistoric seasonal camp that has attracted nomads for over 2000 years and continues to offer rustic camping opportunities for overlanders.


Overland Scouting Report Sample Page 3031 by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Despite the cold and rainy weather, we were determined to explore the old Kumeyaay native “Morteros” village site below Ghost Mountain and the Pictograph Trail up Smugglers canyon, seasonal camps among large granite boulders.


Pictograph Trailhead by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Pictopgraph Trail by Overland Frontier, on Flickr


Overland Scouting Report Sample Page 33 by Overland Frontier, on Flickr

To see the complete Free Scouting Report, go to overlandfrontier.com and:

http://www.overlandfrontier.com/trek-legs/prehistoric-oasis-goat-canyon-great-overland-stage-road

Also on this link you will find a link to the Associated Trek Series Tracklogs of our scouted route live, on-line, in Google Maps/Satellite or you can download our free GPS/GPX Tracklog to your Smartphone, Tablet, Computer or Dedicated GPS device.

This Journey is part of Overland Frontier Three Nation Expedition that is being showcased in another EP thread:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...staff-Ariizona

The trails and obstacles in the next Trek Leg get more technical and interesting to drive.
 
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Healeyjet

Explorer
Roger, your attention to details, especially the historic ones, are second to none! I can't wait to try one of the OverlandFrontier.com routes.
Ward
 

dlk23

New member
What an inspiration - I love this!

So Anza-Borrego is now added to my list.
And now that I've discovered your site, I have a whole new set of fabulous routes to check out. Thank you! :)
 

pmatusov

AK6PM
Funny that I should come across this thread while thinking lazily of where I should go to Anza Borrego on Saturday... Dos Cabesas Road and Jojoba Canyon are on my list.

It was very cool of you to post the historical references!
 

concretejungle

Adventurer
I really love your posts and your adventures in how you incorporate history with your trips. That's is really cool and please continue to keep them coming.
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
Thank you! I sure wish I could talk my wife into selling our Honda Pilot and getting a Jeep. My truck/camper's a good home base but way too bulky for Borrego trails overall.
 

1Louder

Explorer
Great job. I was showing your Grand Canyon area trek to some friends today and they kept talking about the food pictured! So maybe you can add some recipes to these fantastic guides. They loved all the other stuff too.

- Chris
 

mercier@streetsmart.ca

Expedition Scout
Roger, your attention to details, especially the historic ones, are second to none! I can't wait to try one of the OverlandFrontier.com routes.
Ward

Thanks Ward. I must say, finding all the interesting stories behind these trails is the most rewarding - well other than acually retracing them.
 

mercier@streetsmart.ca

Expedition Scout
Thank you! I sure wish I could talk my wife into selling our Honda Pilot and getting a Jeep. My truck/camper's a good home base but way too bulky for Borrego trails overall.

American Expedition Vehicles has some really great parts to beef up your Dodge, if you add them slowly your wife might not even noticed. You would be amazed where that puppy could go.
 

mercier@streetsmart.ca

Expedition Scout
Great job. I was showing your Grand Canyon area trek to some friends today and they kept talking about the food pictured! So maybe you can add some recipes to these fantastic guides. They loved all the other stuff too.

- Chris

Thanks for the letting me know the food stuff is noticed and the suggestion for recipes. Will have to look for ways to blend that in Chris. And thanks for sharing our site with friends - greatly appreciated.
 

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