mercier@streetsmart.ca
Expedition Scout
I could not think of a better place to start The Great Canadian Expedition, than the West Kootenay Mountains in British Columbia, a region bordered by rugged mountains, creeks, rivers and lakes. The first leg travels over-the-top of Reco Mountain to Cody, terminus of Kaslo & Slocan railway and on to Ghost Town of Cody and Sandon, once the commercial heart of the ‘Silver Slocan'. Starts with an easy drive up Jackson Basin, but those looking for a heart-stopping option can take the trail to the backside and top of 1891 Discovery Trail to the backside of Reco Mountain or explore several other more technical trails from Jackson Mine before taking the old wagon road that climbs over top and down the 28 switchbacks to Cody. Entire route provides outstanding views of the Goat, Kokanee and Kootenay Mountain ranges.
After taking the ferry at Crawford Bay, we found all kinds of serene roads once used as feeders from Sternwheeler Ports, to mines in the mountains above the lake.
Six Mile Road. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
A favorite on the way to Valley-of-the Ghost is Six Mile Road to Sasquatch Lake for lush scenery and great dispersed camping.
Camping beside Sasquatch Lake. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
This report is being provided by OverlandFrontier.com - a website dedicated to providing inspiration to on historical overland routes with interesting relics to explore along the way. We provide free scouting reports and Free GPS/GPX Tracklogs of routes scouted, as tools to help you to plan your own self-guided, vehicle dependent expedition. Thirty years ago, I started researching forgotten overland trails, with a storied past, that could be retraced in a 4WD vehicle, on foot, bike or horseback. I could always find historical records, some with old maps and photos, but very few with current topographic maps, photos and activities, all in one source – hence Overland Frontier.
Slocan “Valley-of-the Ghost “ Trek Series Map. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Finding the Canadian Kootenay. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
The Slocan “Valley-of-the Ghost “ Trek Series (Trek Leg 7, 8 & 9) retraces paths blazed deep valleys by two railways racing to the heart of the 1890's ‘Silvery Slocan' mining district as well as the wagon roads built as feeders to the mountain mines above. The little American Kaslo & Slocan short line was built at a time when narrow gauge were being replaced by standard gauge, but it was the perfect silver bullet required to beat the Canadian Pacific Railway to the richest mines.
Kaslo and Slocan on Payne Bluff by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
It turned out to be a battle of egos between James Jerome Hill of the American based Great Northern RR and William Cornelius Van Horn of the Canadian Pacific RR. Ironically Hill was Canadian and Van Horne an American.
Steamboat and Rail Rivalry from Scouting Report. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
The K&S was first to arrive to Sandon, on October 23, 1895. While feverishly extending its line from Three Forks the CPR sent another work crew to Sandon to lay rail lines within the town, and construct a station. The K&S claimed it was taking place on their right-of-way. When the CPR continued, the K&S wrapped a cable around the station, and promptly pulled it down with their steam engine. Lines were drawn, shots fired, but all walked away and the CPR did not try to rebuild on this ground.
Steamboat and Rail Rivalry from Scouting Report. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
The story became one of the most exciting railway and steam ship rivalries in North American. The trails, tales and relics make great fodder for Overlanders, and the scenery is spectacular.
Getting to the trailhead is, pleasantly, off the beaten path. Sternwheelers provided the only access during the boom years, and for some communities as late as 1957 and three of the five gateways still require a ferry. This helps explain why this region is still insulated from the outside world.
Feeder Mountain Road to Steamship Port. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
SS Moyie in Kaslo operated until 1957. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Lakes, Rivers and Deep Valleys Insulate Region. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Golden Era of Steamships. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Trek Leg 7 of 11 Leg loop: We start this report in middle of the eastern gateway to the Silver Slocan, because its late summer; the best time to take the Retallack to Cody “Over-the-top” wagon road. Earlier, trails are often blocked by snowpack in shady areas. Late summer/early fall can be ideal. The following photo was taken after cresting the saddle, before dropping down the Northeast side of Reco Mountain.
Over-The-Top Trail saddle. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
While researching old mining records I discovered a 1927 mineral reference map (see page 26 of Scouting Report). It illustrates the fever of a rush where every possible piece of ground in this region of the ‘Silvery Slocan” was staked, claimed and prospected, but only a small percentage were successful in striking it rich. The trails blazed by prospectors, the wagon roads built by working mines through rugged wilderness to bring in supplies and take out the payloads, pepper both sides of the canyon, leaving an incredible wealth of paths to explore.
Over-The-Top Trail saddle. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
The first section of the Over-the-top Trail heading south starts with an easy drive up Jackson Basin, and provides incredible Mountain Views.
Goat Mountain view. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
We explored a heart-stopping trail to the backside and top of Reco Mountain, the site of the original discovery trail of 1891 that travels along the peak ridgeline to the rich silver mines that opened this country.
1891 Discovery trail. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Trail evolves to Moderately Difficult as you approach and pass Jackson Mine.
Jackson Basin. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Over-The-Top Trail. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Doubling back to Jackson Mine, we climbed steeply over top the saddle before dropping down the 28 switchbacks to Cody. The entire route provides outstanding views of the Goat, Kokanee and Kootenay Mountain ranges.
Over-The-Top Trail. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Dropping down the Cody side, we encountered 28 switchbacks, a number are particularly tight, requiring a multi-point turn, even for short wheel base vehicles. A look a the historic photos of the treeless Reco Mountain, as it looked in the 1890's, provides a better appreciation of the steepness of the mountain and why 28 ledge road switchbacks are required to make your way down.
Reno Mountain. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Views are amazing but keep your eyes on the road while traveling. The road is generally in good condition, assuming there are no spring break-up washouts. We rate the south side Moderate but seasoned drivers will find it easy. Most of the shelf road is insulated with trees, but there are several places that remind you how steep the drop is.
Kokanee Mountians. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Be prepared to encounter deadfall particularly early spring or just after a storm, as was the case during one trip where we had to clear two downed trees.
Deadfall on switchback trails. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
The most exciting discovery made while exploring Reco Mountain trials, was coming across the mining tram line that would lead me to the historic mine where the major discovery party staked 26 claims under the Noble Five name.
Nobel Five Mine tram. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
If it were not for the tracks, I may have never seen the overgrown mine entrance, that had an Indiana Jones feeling.
Nobel Five Mine. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
24) Noble Five Ruins by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
We reached the ghost town of Cody, at the valley bottom, terminus to the Kaslo & Slocan Railway, where we camped beside the last remaining K&S station.
Kaslo and Slocan station at Cody. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
From here, it is just a short drive to Sandon ghost town, the heart of Silvery Slocan, but that is whole other story, we will save for another post.
In the meantime, if this trail and region interests you, go to our website and download the free 43 page Scout Report full of photos, route history, old and new maps. You can also download our Free GPS/GPX Tracklog file to help plan your won self-guided expedition:
http://www.overlandfrontier.com/trek-legs/retallack-cody-over-top-trail
We are just trying to get Overland Frontier off the ground. If you find this type of information interesting and helpful, we could use your support; please Like us on Facebook.
After taking the ferry at Crawford Bay, we found all kinds of serene roads once used as feeders from Sternwheeler Ports, to mines in the mountains above the lake.
Six Mile Road. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
A favorite on the way to Valley-of-the Ghost is Six Mile Road to Sasquatch Lake for lush scenery and great dispersed camping.
Camping beside Sasquatch Lake. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
This report is being provided by OverlandFrontier.com - a website dedicated to providing inspiration to on historical overland routes with interesting relics to explore along the way. We provide free scouting reports and Free GPS/GPX Tracklogs of routes scouted, as tools to help you to plan your own self-guided, vehicle dependent expedition. Thirty years ago, I started researching forgotten overland trails, with a storied past, that could be retraced in a 4WD vehicle, on foot, bike or horseback. I could always find historical records, some with old maps and photos, but very few with current topographic maps, photos and activities, all in one source – hence Overland Frontier.
Slocan “Valley-of-the Ghost “ Trek Series Map. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Finding the Canadian Kootenay. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
The Slocan “Valley-of-the Ghost “ Trek Series (Trek Leg 7, 8 & 9) retraces paths blazed deep valleys by two railways racing to the heart of the 1890's ‘Silvery Slocan' mining district as well as the wagon roads built as feeders to the mountain mines above. The little American Kaslo & Slocan short line was built at a time when narrow gauge were being replaced by standard gauge, but it was the perfect silver bullet required to beat the Canadian Pacific Railway to the richest mines.
Kaslo and Slocan on Payne Bluff by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
It turned out to be a battle of egos between James Jerome Hill of the American based Great Northern RR and William Cornelius Van Horn of the Canadian Pacific RR. Ironically Hill was Canadian and Van Horne an American.
Steamboat and Rail Rivalry from Scouting Report. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
The K&S was first to arrive to Sandon, on October 23, 1895. While feverishly extending its line from Three Forks the CPR sent another work crew to Sandon to lay rail lines within the town, and construct a station. The K&S claimed it was taking place on their right-of-way. When the CPR continued, the K&S wrapped a cable around the station, and promptly pulled it down with their steam engine. Lines were drawn, shots fired, but all walked away and the CPR did not try to rebuild on this ground.
Steamboat and Rail Rivalry from Scouting Report. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
The story became one of the most exciting railway and steam ship rivalries in North American. The trails, tales and relics make great fodder for Overlanders, and the scenery is spectacular.
Getting to the trailhead is, pleasantly, off the beaten path. Sternwheelers provided the only access during the boom years, and for some communities as late as 1957 and three of the five gateways still require a ferry. This helps explain why this region is still insulated from the outside world.
Feeder Mountain Road to Steamship Port. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
SS Moyie in Kaslo operated until 1957. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Lakes, Rivers and Deep Valleys Insulate Region. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Golden Era of Steamships. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Trek Leg 7 of 11 Leg loop: We start this report in middle of the eastern gateway to the Silver Slocan, because its late summer; the best time to take the Retallack to Cody “Over-the-top” wagon road. Earlier, trails are often blocked by snowpack in shady areas. Late summer/early fall can be ideal. The following photo was taken after cresting the saddle, before dropping down the Northeast side of Reco Mountain.
Over-The-Top Trail saddle. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
While researching old mining records I discovered a 1927 mineral reference map (see page 26 of Scouting Report). It illustrates the fever of a rush where every possible piece of ground in this region of the ‘Silvery Slocan” was staked, claimed and prospected, but only a small percentage were successful in striking it rich. The trails blazed by prospectors, the wagon roads built by working mines through rugged wilderness to bring in supplies and take out the payloads, pepper both sides of the canyon, leaving an incredible wealth of paths to explore.
Over-The-Top Trail saddle. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
The first section of the Over-the-top Trail heading south starts with an easy drive up Jackson Basin, and provides incredible Mountain Views.
Goat Mountain view. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
We explored a heart-stopping trail to the backside and top of Reco Mountain, the site of the original discovery trail of 1891 that travels along the peak ridgeline to the rich silver mines that opened this country.
1891 Discovery trail. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Trail evolves to Moderately Difficult as you approach and pass Jackson Mine.
Jackson Basin. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Over-The-Top Trail. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Doubling back to Jackson Mine, we climbed steeply over top the saddle before dropping down the 28 switchbacks to Cody. The entire route provides outstanding views of the Goat, Kokanee and Kootenay Mountain ranges.
Over-The-Top Trail. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Dropping down the Cody side, we encountered 28 switchbacks, a number are particularly tight, requiring a multi-point turn, even for short wheel base vehicles. A look a the historic photos of the treeless Reco Mountain, as it looked in the 1890's, provides a better appreciation of the steepness of the mountain and why 28 ledge road switchbacks are required to make your way down.
Reno Mountain. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Views are amazing but keep your eyes on the road while traveling. The road is generally in good condition, assuming there are no spring break-up washouts. We rate the south side Moderate but seasoned drivers will find it easy. Most of the shelf road is insulated with trees, but there are several places that remind you how steep the drop is.
Kokanee Mountians. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Be prepared to encounter deadfall particularly early spring or just after a storm, as was the case during one trip where we had to clear two downed trees.
Deadfall on switchback trails. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
The most exciting discovery made while exploring Reco Mountain trials, was coming across the mining tram line that would lead me to the historic mine where the major discovery party staked 26 claims under the Noble Five name.
Nobel Five Mine tram. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
If it were not for the tracks, I may have never seen the overgrown mine entrance, that had an Indiana Jones feeling.
Nobel Five Mine. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
24) Noble Five Ruins by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
We reached the ghost town of Cody, at the valley bottom, terminus to the Kaslo & Slocan Railway, where we camped beside the last remaining K&S station.
Kaslo and Slocan station at Cody. by Overland Frontier, on Flickr
From here, it is just a short drive to Sandon ghost town, the heart of Silvery Slocan, but that is whole other story, we will save for another post.
In the meantime, if this trail and region interests you, go to our website and download the free 43 page Scout Report full of photos, route history, old and new maps. You can also download our Free GPS/GPX Tracklog file to help plan your won self-guided expedition:
http://www.overlandfrontier.com/trek-legs/retallack-cody-over-top-trail
We are just trying to get Overland Frontier off the ground. If you find this type of information interesting and helpful, we could use your support; please Like us on Facebook.
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