Leg 8: Retallack to Sandon - Retracing Rails & Trails to Alpine Mines They Served
Invigorated by finding the Over–the-top trail after three attempts, we decided to double back and wallow in the experience and complete the “Valley of the ghosts” exploration.
We retraced the paths blazed by two railways racing to the heart of BC’s “Silvery Slocan”, along two deep valleys and up the mountainsides using the wagon roads built as feeders to the alpine mines above. The little American Kaslo & Slocan short line was built as a narrow gauge and backed by the Great Northern. The one foot eight inches meant the line could have much sharper turning radius, an important factor for a line which had to cling to the side of mountain with the aid of 37 bridges and trestles that could be smaller, shorter and lighter, as could the rails themselves – all important when trying to catch up to the Canadian Pacific that had a jump start.
Trek Leg 8 Scout Report Page 6-7 by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
So much occurred in this region but relics and trails have become overgrown as they are slowly being reclaimed by nature. Dropping back down from the Reco Mountain Over-the-top trail put us right near the summit of the ‘Valley of the Ghost’s, a favorite dispersed camp region near Fish and Bear Lake, a region attracting Overlanders since recorded history and surely well before by natives.
Dropping back down from the Reco Mountain Over-the-top trail put us right near the summit of the ‘Valley of the Ghost’s, s favorite dispersed camp region near Fish and Bear Lake, a region attracting Overlanders since recorded history and surely well before by natives.
Fish Lake by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Dispersed Camping above Fish Lake by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
We discovered many feeder wagon roads from the rail lines and merchant wagon roads to explore on both sides of the valley, still in use after 120 years.
Kalso Merchant Wagon Road by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Trek Leg 8 Scout Report Page 10 by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
From the valley summit, we traveled along the abandoned railway line past the mining camp of Zincton, named in honour of the ore discovered in the region that not only included Silver and Lead but Zinc. The Lucky Jim Mine operated until the forty’s and the resulting collection of buildings, in large part, led to the regions moniker of ‘Valley of the Ghosts’. Due to safety, the dilapidated structures were burnt and all that remains are ruins.
Lucky Jim Upper Tram by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Abandoned railway past Lucky Jim Mine by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Scouting Report Page 20 by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Just past Zincton, we explored an overgrown trail that was once a major thoroughfare that shot up the up the steep slope to the rich mines of Payne Mountain. We traveled up and along McGuigan Creek, on an old wagon road built to reach the site of the first discovery of the “Silvery Slocan”. We had the good fortune to be introduced to this trail by the operators Rod and Tracy owners of Top Down Tour, of Kalso. The bridge over Seaton Creek is long gone but the creek is generally easy to cross in late summer and fall. However, the route starts with a series of bolder-strewn switchbacks and some light bushwhacking before the trail opens up.
The wagon road we followed runs along a steep and long tramline that once carried rich ore down this steep slope. It is easy to see why the freight wagons were replaced with a more effective means of delivering ore to the railway below.
Trek Leg 8 Scout Report Page 23 by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Tight tree and brush cover became less of a problem as we traveled up-mountain. However, the ledge road does get very narrow in one spot (below), making it impossible for full sized vehicles to pass. It was just wide enough for a Grand Cherokee. A slip down this ledge would likely be catastrophic. In addition, the narrow point crosses a small stream that during spring break up could erode the road and or would be an impassable waterfall.
Payne Mine and Rambler-Cariboo Wagon Trail by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
We followed the Payne Mine Road until we reached the site of Washington Mine, the highest mill built in the region where we followed the trail split East to the alpine Rambler-Cariboo Mine. The significance of what we were climbing and what these early miners encountered came into view, as we looked across the valley towards the Goat Range and the London Ridge Mine road the switchbacks its way to the top.
Trek Leg 8 Scout Report Page 26-27 by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Trek Leg 8 Scout Report Page 29 by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
As we climbed further up the mountain trail we could see that the switchback trail went past the London Ridge Mine and crested over the top into a alpine basin we are told is a magnet for grizzly bears looking to fatten up before retreating to their winter dens.
Trail to Rambler-Cariboo Mine by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
London Ridge Swithchback Trail by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Our group parked at the Tommy Moore Mine, and hiked up the last stretch to the Rambler-Cariboo Mine and beyond to the mountain ridge above so we could take in the incredible views in every direction.
Tommy Moore Mine Mine Tramline by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Tommy Moore Mine from Rambler-Cariboo Mine Trail by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Trek Leg 8 Scout Report Page 36-37 by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Having made our way back down the mountain trail, we followed the valley floor along the Nakusp & Slocan railroad and the old merchant wagon road below Payne Bluff, to the ghost town of Sandon, once the heart of the Silvery Slocan mining bonanza. When the feisty little American K&S Railway discovered that the Canadian Pacific had built a station on their right of way in Sandon, they wrapped a chain around it and pulled it down with Engine #1.
Trek Leg 8 Scout Report Page 47 by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Trek Leg 8 Scout Report Page 48 by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Trek Leg 8 Scout Report Page 49 by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
The Kaslo & Slocan only lasted 15 years, but it and the rivalry between the Nakusp & Slocan, is one of the most exciting and colorful parts of the ‘Silvery Slocan’ history and a route worth revisiting. The narrow gauge rails enabled the engineers to build the K&S with the tightest curve and the second steepest grade in Canada. The bridges at Payne Bluff are best reached from Sandon. The first 2.3 kilometers of the of the 5.5 kilometer trail can be driven, but the remaining trail has to be hiked or biked passing Altona Mine and Payne Mine Concentrator before reaching Trestle 21 an 22 along the infamous 1000’ foot cliff they once bridged.
Trek Leg 8 Scout Report Page 53 by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Altona Mine on the Kaslo and Slocan Railway by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Trek Leg 8 Scout Report Page 59 by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Trek Leg 8 Scout Report Page 51 by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
Trek Leg 8 Scout Report Page 63 by
Overland Frontier, on Flickr
After touring Payne Bluff, hikers and rock scramblers can carry on to McGuigan along the Rambler-Cariboo Mine trail or double back to the starting point. Our group chose to hike down the switchback trail to Three Forks ghost town site where we had attached some mountain bikes so we could travel down the old Nakusp & Slocan railway line to New Denver. But that is another story we will reserve for our next post in this thread.
If this trail and region interests you, go to our website and view the 64 page Scout Report on-line or download a copy to your device for free. The report is full of photos, route history, old and new maps.
http://www.overlandfrontier.com/trek-legs/retallack-sandon
You can also download our free GPS/GPX Tracklog file to help plan your own self-guided expedition, however we did not have a GPS device when we explored the segment up the Rambler-Cariboo trail, but the trail head is marked on our GPX Tracklog. We have also flagged the trailhead to the London Ridge.
http://www.overlandfrontier.com/trek-series/british-columbia-slocan-valley-ghosts-series
Thanks for traveling along.
