Overland Route - Texas Hill Country

[ramblinChet]

Texas Hill Country

by Chet Szymecki​

The Texas Hill Country Overland Route is a 145 to 300 mile adventure that can last from two to seven days depending upon how many of the optional loops you include. My adventure included most of the optional loops (King Mountain, Llano River, etc.) and was 300 miles long and took me six days. Approximately 65% of my time was spent on dirt or gravel roads while 35% was spent on two lane paved roads. The route begins as your turn off Highway 71 just west of Horseshoe Bay and proceeds in an anticlockwise direction passing through Mason and ending in Fredericksburg. Since I was approaching from the south I ran the route clockwise although I believe ending in Fredericksburg would have been even more enjoyable. There is so much to do and see along the way I intend to repeat this adventure in a few years and spend possibly ten to fifteen days exploring and enjoying this beautiful part of Texas.

Here is a map of the 145 mile track as published by Expedition Portal in this article. A link to the GPX file can be found here.



Here is the 300+ mile version of the track as published by Overland Trail Guides in this article. A link to the GPX file can be found here once you create a profile at Overland Trail Guides.

 

[ramblinChet]

Many complain that "it is all paved road" and that simply is not true. Maybe 50% of the miles traveled are paved but keep in mind you will be traveling 45-65 mph so you will pass through those paved sections quickly. My average speed on the dirt and gravel was 20-25 mph so those miles took much more time. All that being said, it was a wonderful trip and if you enjoy cattle guards and river crossings, this one is for you.


Here is an example of one of the hundred or so cattle guards I crossed.


There are many beautiful spots along the trail so stop and relax, enjoy lunch, etc.


Here I am dropping down into a water crossing on the James River. Out of the dozens of water crossings it seemed like the majority were dry, many were just a small puddle or an inch deep, and a few were deeper and wider. The deepest water crossing I encountered was under one foot deep although all of this can change quickly due to the season and weather.


It is always interesting to see beauty such as this in the midst of rock and cacti. This photograph was taken during an early morning walk. Later in my trip I drive through endless fields of yellow, red, and occasionally purple flowers.


Here I am camping on the shore of the James River. This turned out to be an amazing spot where I camped for a few days. With the exception of a ranch hand running between properties a few times each day, the only other traffic passing through could be measured on one hand each day. This was a quiet and peaceful place.


Same location, different day. If you are passing through I would recommend stopping to relax for at least a day or two.


This cow had some extra legs underneath which explained why she was not quick to move. Keep in mind that most property in Texas is privately owned and you are passing through ranch after ranch with free range cattle everywhere.


Here is the deepest and longest water crossing I encountered. The bottom was firm and a bit slippery although it was easy just to pass through slowly in 2WD.


Early morning just south of Mason, Texas, sleeping on a bed of river rock in the middle of the Llano River. Yeah, the Texas Hill Country Overland Route was wonderful and I would do it again.

 

[ramblinChet]

Here are a few additional pictures I snapped along the way:

This is the Seaquist (Sjokvist) House in Mason, Texas.


This is the Castell General Store which serves amazing 1/2-pound burgers. As you might imagine, in a town with one-hundred residents, it's a special sort of place and everyone is friendly.


Although you are unable to read the tombstones or crosses in this picture I will share some of what has been buried here: All My Exes, the Democratic Party, Poverty, Blame, the False Doctrines (1935-1966), etc. I am really beginning to love Texas!!!


Sometimes I see things that just look interesting and stop to take a picture. This beautiful view made me stop to think that many times in life we must stand alone to do what is the right thing to do and not make excuses. A better explanation can be found in 1 Corinthians 15:58. What an amazing world we live in and what incredible opportunities we all have. Happy trails!

 

[ramblinChet]

As I had mentioned earlier I was traveling up just east of San Antonio so I began the track in Fredericksburg, Texas. While exploring this small town I stumbled upon our National Museum of the Pacific War. Maybe I am just a bit critical of things but modernist architecture is just ugly. All the glass, steel, and concrete in straight lines with no texture or substance. Compare the modernist psychobabble to even machines of yesteryear. In the center of this photograph is the fairwater (sail) of the USS Pintado (SS-387). Behind and off to the left of the picture we can see the main mast of the destroyer USS Foote (DD-511). Bring back the beauty!


Wow, I was quite amazed to find a Japanese aircraft I had really not known about in the center of Texas. This is a Kawanishi NK1 floatplane that was called Kyofu, or "strong wind," by the Japanese. If you meet a person and their nickname is Kyofu, you have been warned.


This looks life-size and real because it is. Just a few blocks down from the museum is an outdoor exhibit called the Pacific Combat Zone. On the property is an amphitheater and from what I understand, four or more times each year they perform reenactments with volunteers who dress up and use blank-firing firearms. I will be keeping an eye open for a future performance.


Here is a painting by Frank Fujita titled "Common Place Beatings," on display in the museum. Frank was an American soldier who was captured and spent three-plus years as an American POW under the Japanese. Torture of another human is inexcusable.


This was a very interesting display of a Japanese Aichi D3A2 dive bomber. These carrier based bombers were used during the Imperial Japanese Navy's attack on Pearl Harbor. For some unknown reason a net was hung in front of the display which only served as a distraction.


Here is a scale model of "Fat Man," the nuclear bomb our brave airmen detonated over the city of Nagasaki murdering tens-of-thousands of civilians. Murder is always inexcusable.


This is a Garden of Peace, a replica of Japanese Marshal-Admiral Marquis Tōgō Heihachirō's garden, that was a gift from the Japanese people to the people of these United States. If you read up on history you will discover that Admiral Chester W. Nimitz was born here in Fredericksburg, Texas. Admiral Nimitz was the Commander in Chief, Pacific Fleet and Pacific Ocean Areas, throughout World War II and this is the reason the museum is located here. If you dive even deeper into history you will discover the mutual respect and friendship the Admirals had for each other.


No comment necessary.


If you complete the track in Fredericksburg and are looking for a fun small town approximately one hour south then you might want to consider heading down to Bandera which is the Cowboy Capital of the World!

We began with an example of an ugly building so let's close with a beautiful one built by men with simple hand tools nearly two hundred years ago. This is a small sample of the stained glass in St. Stanislaus RC church back in Bandera. The picture may appear to be pretty but to be there in person and to feel the warm colors pouring through these masterpieces - amazing!


Yes, it gets even better. Just take a moment to study this beautiful presbyterium in St. Stanislaus. The painting is of the Coronation of the Blessed Mother as Queen of Heaven and Earth This is art, this is beauty, this is eternal! Happy trails!!!

 

[rcintx]

Awesome write-up. That route is just a few hours away from me and I really need to make the time to go explore it. In regards to your campsite on the James river. No issues just parking there overnight? I am a life-long resident of Texas and know all too well how closely held (and guarded) the private lands are.

 

[ramblinChet]

Awesome write-up. That route is just a few hours away from me and I really need to make the time to go explore it. In regards to your campsite on the James river. No issues just parking there overnight? I am a life-long resident of Texas and know all too well how closely held (and guarded) the private lands are.

Thank you for your kind words and I hope you are able to enjoy the same trail in the future - so much to do!

And I never had a problem camping on the James River. In fact, I stayed at that location for three days and two nights and never had an issue. I did not start a fire or anything like but it was a beautiful location so I enjoyed it. There were areas near some of the smaller rivers which had fencing and were clearly marked as private but not this larger one.

 

[jeepers29]

No one was murdered in Japan!

 

[kwill]

International law is clear--it was not murder. And it saved countless lives--Japanese included.

 

[tgil]

As a Texas lifer, I only discovered the "Hill Country" a couple of years ago. I'd traveled between Hico and San Antonio, many times and thought that was what everyone called the hill country! This route has been on my radar, but I haven't made the time to do it. I've stayed near Casteel as a base, but ventured down to Junction one day. I've been locked onto the Llano in that area since. What month did you make this trip?

 

[Chris in TX]

I grew up in Fbg, and worked at the Nimitz Museum back when it was a TPWD site. It’s come a long, long way since then. I gave tours at the Pacific combat zone (which means I got to see inside the PT boat 😎). If you get a chance to see one of their living history weekends, check it out. It’s well worth it.

Others have said this about some of my trips, but it’s interesting to see the roads I used to go bombing down in a ‘83 Chevy Caprice being thought of as an Overland route. One man’s backyard is truly another man’s adventure. I’ve only seen that James River crossing that low a few times in major droughts.

I’m glad you enjoyed it! It’s a fun area to drive through, and can tie into other routes through the SW part of the state if you can afford the time and the mileage.

 

[ramblinChet]

As a Texas lifer, I only discovered the "Hill Country" a couple of years ago. I'd traveled between Hico and San Antonio, many times and thought that was what everyone called the hill country! This route has been on my radar, but I haven't made the time to do it. I've stayed near Casteel as a base, but ventured down to Junction one day. I've been locked onto the Llano in that area since. What month did you make this trip?

That trip was completed a few months ago in May. I spent the night north of Casteel just across the Llano River in a small dirt parking lot on the west side of the road. I am looking forward to visiting again - such a beautiful area!

I grew up in Fbg, and worked at the Nimitz Museum back when it was a TPWD site. It’s come a long, long way since then. I gave tours at the Pacific combat zone (which means I got to see inside the PT boat 😎). If you get a chance to see one of their living history weekends, check it out. It’s well worth it.

Others have said this about some of my trips, but it’s interesting to see the roads I used to go bombing down in a ‘83 Chevy Caprice being thought of as an Overland route. One man’s backyard is truly another man’s adventure. I’ve only seen that James River crossing that low a few times in major droughts.

I’m glad you enjoyed it! It’s a fun area to drive through, and can tie into other routes through the SW part of the state if you can afford the time and the mileage.

When I entered the museum I was shocked at how much was contained inside - such a gem in the middle of a wonderful city. And thank you for your reminder regarding the live re-enactments. Here are the final two dates for shows this year:

Pacific Valor: Jack Lucas 02 September 1100-1130
Pacific Valor: Jack Lucas 02 September 1400-1430

Pacific Valor: Eugene Bush 04 November 1100-1130
Pacific Valor: Eugene Bush 04 November 1400-1430

When I was down on the border this past winter I spent most of my time in Boca Chica and South Padre eagerly awaiting the Initial Test Flight of SpaceX Starship. The second launch is very soon so if you are anywhere nearby I would encourage you to go - it's something extraordinary:



I also traveled up into McAllen, spent much time in Falcon Heights, enjoyed Laredo and explored as far west as Eagle Pass. Hopefully this year I am able to spend a few weeks in Big Bend National Park. If you have any recommendations for SW Texas I would love to hear all about them!