Overland Suspension

Dr. Cornwallis

Adventurer
Shortly after buying my 2012 Extra cab 6spd I was bitten by the overland bug and I've been lurking for quite some time here since. This sight has been invaluable in helping me plan my truck. I'm in the final stages of planning before I begin buying parts. One of the things I'm having a lot of trouble deciding on is suspension. I'm a believer in doing things right the first time so nothing about this truck is going to be "entry level." If I can't afford to do it right then I'll wait until I can.

When it comes to a suspension for an overland vehicle how far do I really need to go? Could I get away with an OME kit with some Dakars and coils up front (stock UCA's) or do I need to be looking at something like fox/king/icon coil overs and aftermarket UCA's?




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bknudtsen

Expedition Leader
It really depends on the terrain and load you will be seeing. Before you decide on your suspension setup, figure out if you will have steel bumpers, sliders, roof rack, hard shell, softopper, bed rack, roof top tent, etc... Then spec out your suspension to accommodate your needs. I went with OME HD coils and leafs with Light Racing UCA's because I knew that my rig was going to see some weight. I won't be bombing through the whoops, so I decided not to spend the extra money on high end suspension. BTW, before this newest gen of coilover suspensions came out, many people have been "getting away" with OME kits.
 

LocoCoyote

World Citizen
It really depends on the terrain and load you will be seeing. Before you decide on your suspension setup, figure out if you will have steel bumpers, sliders, roof rack, hard shell, softopper, bed rack, roof top tent, etc... Then spec out your suspension to accommodate your needs. I went with OME HD coils and leafs with Light Racing UCA's because I knew that my rig was going to see some weight. I won't be bombing through the whoops, so I decided not to spend the extra money on high end suspension. BTW, before this newest gen of coilover suspensions came out, many people have been "getting away" with OME kits.

and one thing I would like to add....consider where you will be overlanding; If it is in developed countries (US, Western Europe, etc) then you can mod to your hearts desire...if, however, you plan to travel in undeveloped areas, then all those high end mod parts may be difficult to find a replacement for.
 

Dr. Cornwallis

Adventurer
My plans are to stay in the CONUS as well as Canada and Alaska. I figure that's more than enough exploring to keep me busy for a while. I'm going to be using a softopper to sleep in and a bed rack to go over the softopper for carrying additional supplies. I'm planning on using something like a truck vault in the bed with a mattress on top. More supplies will be kept behind the seats in the cab. I'll probably fab up some custom drawers. For bumpers I'll be using a 4x innovations hybrid tube bumper in the front and 4x innovations plate bumper in the rear.

For the bed rack I was going to look around at custom fabricators to build me what I'm looking for. I'd like to have the ability (to carry on the rack) a spare tire, maxtrax, hi lift, shovel, water and assorted other things on top. I'd like to have two mounting points on each side for carrying 4 gal rotopax fuel containers.

In the cab I'll likely keep fresh clothes, a yeti and other odds and ends. For cooking I'll bring a Snowpeak base camp stove and spare fuel canisters (stored under the bed in drawers with other cook wear.)


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DVexile

Adventurer
So I've spent the past week and untold hours trying to figure out the "do it right once" suspension. Here are my conclusions:

- You can do an OME kit for $1K with nitros for shocks and one of their front coils with a dakar in the rear. For a heavy load you can add an additional leaf to the dakar. This could serve you well, seems to serve a lot of people well. This, however, doesn't have any room for adjustment - pretty much take it or leave it. The components are roughly designed to work with each other so it is probably an OK turnkey solution for self install with few configuration options.

- You can spend hours and hours and hours reading about people's opinions on everything else. Icon, Fox, King coil overs and shocks. All sorts of add a leafs or leaf packs. You will read lots of strong opinions. In 99% of the cases the people giving these opinions will never mention their axle weights nor what they drive on or at what speed. They could be daily drivers, mall crawlers, mudders, rock crawlers, desert racers or who knows what. A rock crawler and a desert racer want completely different suspensions with drastically different suspension frequencies (roughly spring rates) and different shock valving (progressive vs. digressive). Nonetheless you will see people shout at each other about this or that suspension without ever mentioning what they actually do with the suspension.

- You will find the vast, vast, vast majority of people going off road run with weights far less than an overland truck. Hence essentially everything you read about suspensions online will be useless. A stiff suspension to someone running with an empty bed will be a wallowing bottoming out mess with an overland load.

- Amazingly it seems most people who drop $3K on a suspension stick with the default stock valving. Hence when you read peoples opinions about say icon vs. fox they really aren't telling you anything more than their opinion on the default valving used by each manufacturer (hint, icon is digressive and fox is progressive). Of course you could revalve either of those shocks to act pretty much like the other. It seems 99% of people posting on forums don't realize this...

So a nice OME kit for $1K is pretty much unadjustable but could be just fine. It is designed to be decent across a wide range of applications. That said, if you say run desert washboard roads at 30 mph you are going to be much, much happier with a monotube shock (nitros are twin tube) possibly with a remote reservoir to handle the heat of a long washboard run and you will be far more comfortable with something valved digressive (the nitros are progressive).

Past that I honestly think you need to get someone else involved. If you drop 2-3K on an suspension most competent vendors will be happy to, and in fact will want to, revalve the shocks appropriately. Along the same lines, I haven't priced it yet but my understanding is a custom leaf pack from Alcan is not much worse price wise than a dakar or allpro expedition especially considering the leaf may be just a fraction of the cost of your whole suspension if you are going "do it right".

So after spending a week learning all I could about suspensions I've concluded the best way to do it right is to talk to a good vendor and have them help you. If you can give them estimated axle loads for front and rear and describe what you will be running on (sounds like you will have a lot of highway to go along with your off roading) they will point you right.

Personally my plan is to plan on having Alcan do a custom leaf pack and go with either icon or fox coilovers and rear shocks. Probably going to have Down South Motorsports (located in San Diego) help me spec out the suspension. This will all have to wait until I've actually got my truck all configured as I want it. Then off to a truck scale to weight the front and rear so DSM and Alcan will be able to tune appropriately. My big remaining question which I'll be asking DSM when the time comes is just how useful are the dial tunable shocks. Sounds like a great concept for good highway and off road handling but only available on the priciest shocks with remote reservoirs and I'd only spend the $$$ if it really works for my application.

Good luck!
 

FJR Colorado

Explorer
Hard to go wrong with the OME kit.

You can also look at the Toytec BOSS kit. Another set up you do once and forget. But the fronts are adjustable if you need to lower a tad like I did.
 

drobb

Adventurer
DSM guys are great!!! I talked to them several times regarding running Kings on my Sequoia.
 

yonah

Calling-in from west of the Rockies
The PO of my DCSB Tacoma installed a 2" Ironman suspension on the truck along with front ARB Bullbar, Rear HD bumper, Slee sliders, Leer topper, RTT, Baja rack - i.e. a lot of weight. All of these mods were done off of the lot over 30k miles ago. I've put roughly 4k miles on the truck in the last 6 weeks (both on/offroad) and have been thoroughly impressed with the suspension's performance. I do not see any sagging or fatigue in the springs. I mention this as I have been a diehard OME fan for years, but have absolutely no complaints with my current Ironman setup. Something to think about as I noticed this manufacturer was not mentioned above.
 

Dr. Cornwallis

Adventurer
I think what I'll probably end up doing is calling DSM and seeing what they say before I make a final decision but right now I think what I'll probably do is go with the Fox 2.0 extended travel co up front with total chaos uca, a toytec AAL in the rear and fox 2.0 shocks. I'm not going to be hitting whoops or jumping the truck and I don't plan on racing across crazy trails at light speed either so I think that the above setup would be more than enough and it's at an attainable price.


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trailnewt

New member
It sounds like you've done a lot of thinking about this. Why do you find it necessary to replace the UCAs for an expedition truck?
 

toyotech

Expedition Leader
Aftermarket UCA is necessary to correct caster lost from any 3 inch lift (typical). Also uniball UCA allow for more travel so you can get the most out of the expensive lift you just put on. Biggest thing I noticed is the factory upper ball joint will dig into the brand new coil at full dropp


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trailnewt

New member
Thank you Toyotech. I'm aware of the need for aftermarket UCA when the lift goes over about 2". I am unclear on when an expedition truck is going to need over 2" of lift, or if perhaps the OP had another reason for wanting the modified UCAs.
 

toyotech

Expedition Leader
OME is 3 inch lift also to help the must have 33inch tires.


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DVexile

Adventurer
So a 3 inch lift is required in order to fit 33" tires?

That is the most common and straight forward way to fit 33". In theory you can do other things like cut or replace fenders, change wheel offsets and such. But more practically without any changes beyond lift until you get to 3" of lift the largest tire you can fit without rubbing issues is around 31.7". Certainly you might be able to fit something slightly larger with 2.5" of lift but the problem becomes available tire sizes. So general rule of thumb is stay smaller than 31.7" until you have 3" of lift and then you can go to 33".
 

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