Xenobian
Active member
The Libyan desert is definitely a special place, Wau En Namus.... Algeria has some great places, too. A pity so much has changed there......
Overland through Niger, Chad, Central African Republic
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Victorian
Approved Vendor : Total Composites
Not many if any people heading up there these days, not that many ever went I think. It was peaceful for sure, just you and the desert...paradise. Without a doubt one of the best places in the Sahara. We skipped much of the Ennedi due to time constraints and having explored it in depths previously. Of course, it is an addictive place, cannot help but want to return
I was part of the German "Sahara club" and members talked/traveled a lot in these regions. I never made it that far, just Northern Africa 8 times and a couple times West Africa. I agree with you, the Sahara is addictive! Cheers
charlieaarons
Explorer
I am incredibly impressed that you recently successfully accomplished this trip, especially via the traditional route from the west via coast road then E through Mali and Niger (or opposite way when leaving). I have been wanting to do this ever since I acquired my U500 (2006 Unimog) camper. My inspiration is of course the travels of the Austrian couple mainly with a succession of Land Cruisers; their name escapes me but their website is “www.tlc-[something]; can’t remember that either.
Their best trip was from southern Libya to eventually N’Djamena, and they carried a lot of fuel. Maybe about year 2000 more or less. You may recall who I’m thinking about.
I had more or less written off Mali and Niger for the usual Salafist reasons which exacerbates political instability, plus military interventions both western and Wagner.
I had a long discussion recently with an Instacart delivery man who I have befriended, I think he’s from either Ennedi or the capital. He suggested the Cameroun route from Douala to the lake area.
However I recently heard a report of Wagner activity in Cameroun; in addition to CAR and Mali. Did you run into any of them on either direction?
I will PM you. (Private message)
Their best trip was from southern Libya to eventually N’Djamena, and they carried a lot of fuel. Maybe about year 2000 more or less. You may recall who I’m thinking about.
I had more or less written off Mali and Niger for the usual Salafist reasons which exacerbates political instability, plus military interventions both western and Wagner.
I had a long discussion recently with an Instacart delivery man who I have befriended, I think he’s from either Ennedi or the capital. He suggested the Cameroun route from Douala to the lake area.
However I recently heard a report of Wagner activity in Cameroun; in addition to CAR and Mali. Did you run into any of them on either direction?
I will PM you. (Private message)
Xenobian
Active member
The initial inspiration years ago was, without a doubt, Klaus Daerr. I also read many trip reports on the website of an Austrian guy with a Toyota Landcruiser HZJ78 (I think), among other vehicles over the years, mostly for Sahara trips. His name I think was Reinhard Mauser or similar, and had a good site with his reports. Sadly I forgot what this website is and how to find it.... if anyone here knows, please let me know!
Xenobian
Active member
Wow, just as I type out a reply to Victorian I referenced the Austrian couple.... the name of their website also escapes me but I also recall www.tlc- something... Small world.....
I'm looking at camper options, no point getting into that here as it's a huge topic, and so many ideas and thoughts, but suffice to say, my interests lie mostly in Africa, and my concept is to keep it based in the UK (where I am originally from), to save the added cost and hassles of shipping to from the US each time (which is also very time consuming).
Southern Libya into Chad is a dream trip, especially including Wau En Namus. So is Jebel Uweinat.... Mali is a place had written off (well, the north and extreme east), but the transit I made was fine at least at the moment. Niger is much improved, although it becomes a question of do you want to risk an expensive vehicle there, with just local insurance most likely... But I had no problems in and around Niamey, and as far as the Chad border. I didn't run into trouble anywhere with the exception of a minor incident in the Tibesti, a group of local gold miners firing off some guns in the night near the camp, and then approaching us. In the end, it was friendly.
Xenobian
Active member
Ok, here it is: http://www.tlc-exped.net/index.html
Between my recollection of his first name, Reinhard, and your nugget of part of their website, it was easy enough to find it once more
Victorian
Approved Vendor : Total Composites
I was reading Klaus's book front to back many many times. For over landers (or Africa travellers) a must.
Xenobian
Active member
For those who can read German, it is a must. Not sure if it was ever translated in English.
Xenobian
Active member
After a few requests for more pictures, here they are. Apologies for this not really being a trip report, and more a disorganised photo dump. I will pledge to make the next Africa overland trip report a proper report, vehicle details, routes, account, and more organized photos!
Camels near Lake Chad
Typical housing near Lake Chad
Driving through expansive gypsum deposits, on the piste north from Lake Chad towards Faya-Largeau
A simple shelter in the sand
Mineral rich landscape near Faya-Largeau
Oasis at Faya-Largeau. The dates grown here tasted really awful, they smelled badly of gasoline....
Light tank just on the outskirts of Faya-Largeau. I'm not a tank expert, I'm sure a more learned member of the forum will know what it is. There were many dozen shells littered around, as well as at many other sites with abandoned tanks and heavy military vehicles.
Iron boulders
Sunset over a dune, a perfect saharan camp
Camels near Lake Chad
Typical housing near Lake Chad
Driving through expansive gypsum deposits, on the piste north from Lake Chad towards Faya-Largeau
A simple shelter in the sand
Mineral rich landscape near Faya-Largeau
Oasis at Faya-Largeau. The dates grown here tasted really awful, they smelled badly of gasoline....
Light tank just on the outskirts of Faya-Largeau. I'm not a tank expert, I'm sure a more learned member of the forum will know what it is. There were many dozen shells littered around, as well as at many other sites with abandoned tanks and heavy military vehicles.
Iron boulders
Sunset over a dune, a perfect saharan camp
Xenobian
Active member
The old French colonial fort in Zouar, in the Tibesti mountains. Now a Chadian military outpost.
Drying mud bricks in Zouar
A scene near the police station in Bardai. An essential hassle to ensure when travelling in Chad is to deal with the police (checking in and out of settlements), checkpoints (very few, if any, outside of settlements) and permits. Which permit one needs is never made clear, but everyone is in agreement, a permit IS needed....
A scenic valley near Bardai with colored pinnacles
Typical style of huts (stone walls, curved thatch roof mats) near Bardai. This style is usual in northern Tibesti, other areas have a different vernacular architecture
More northern Tibesti architecture. Note the solar panels on some of the roofs. No matter how off the beaten piste you may live in Chad, having a smartphone is a mandatory aspect of 21st century life...
A windy days in the Sahara, crossing between the Tibesti and Ennedi Plateau
Skirting along the fringes of the Ennedi Plateau
Drying mud bricks in Zouar
A scene near the police station in Bardai. An essential hassle to ensure when travelling in Chad is to deal with the police (checking in and out of settlements), checkpoints (very few, if any, outside of settlements) and permits. Which permit one needs is never made clear, but everyone is in agreement, a permit IS needed....
A scenic valley near Bardai with colored pinnacles
Typical style of huts (stone walls, curved thatch roof mats) near Bardai. This style is usual in northern Tibesti, other areas have a different vernacular architecture
More northern Tibesti architecture. Note the solar panels on some of the roofs. No matter how off the beaten piste you may live in Chad, having a smartphone is a mandatory aspect of 21st century life...
A windy days in the Sahara, crossing between the Tibesti and Ennedi Plateau
Skirting along the fringes of the Ennedi Plateau
Xenobian
Active member
Nomads crossing the road, near Abeche, eastern Chad.
A giant clay jar
Women in procession, near Am Timan, Southen Chad
Horse and cart near Am Timan
Crocodiles in Zakouma National Park. This is the place to be for wildlife in Chad, excellent elephant viewing without the crowds or trappings of safari that somewhat detract from the experience in East Africa etc. The Park is supremely well managed by African Parks (top quality charity, they get it right in Africa), Zakouma is one of twenty or so under their management - https://www.africanparks.org/the-parks/zakouma
African Buffalo in Zakouma National Park
The typical style of huts in Southern Chad, here near to the border with Central African Republic
A giant clay jar
Women in procession, near Am Timan, Southen Chad
Horse and cart near Am Timan
Crocodiles in Zakouma National Park. This is the place to be for wildlife in Chad, excellent elephant viewing without the crowds or trappings of safari that somewhat detract from the experience in East Africa etc. The Park is supremely well managed by African Parks (top quality charity, they get it right in Africa), Zakouma is one of twenty or so under their management - https://www.africanparks.org/the-parks/zakouma
African Buffalo in Zakouma National Park
The typical style of huts in Southern Chad, here near to the border with Central African Republic
DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
OK, you asked. It is an armored personnel carrier with a grenade launcher on top. Used to carry troops into battle, it is protected against small arms fire.
If you could actually get the wrecks out, there is a lot of metal to reclaim. But it is too heavy to carry too far to any form of smelter. And so, they sit.
Years ago, I plotted out a route from Douala, where I lived, to Khartoum. Sadly, things were too unstable. Many years later, I tried to do the same trip from Djibouti to Bangui - same problem.
Had a colleague in Ndjamena and was always pestering him to find a way to visit the trou. I first saw the trou au natron in a coffee table book back in the '70s. When I crossed the Sahara the Tibesti and Libya were closed, so I took the easy route from Agadez to Tamanrasset.
Always great to see photos from the old neighborhood.
Xenobian
Active member
Having seen your bio on your website, you clearly have a lot of Africa experienceOK, you asked. It is an armored personnel carrier with a grenade launcher on top. Used to carry troops into battle, it is protected against small arms fire.
If you could actually get the wrecks out, there is a lot of metal to reclaim. But it is too heavy to carry too far to any form of smelter. And so, they sit.
Years ago, I plotted out a route from Douala, where I lived, to Khartoum. Sadly, things were too unstable. Many years later, I tried to do the same trip from Djibouti to Bangui - same problem.
Had a colleague in Ndjamena and was always pestering him to find a way to visit the trou. I first saw the trou au natron in a coffee table book back in the '70s. When I crossed the Sahara the Tibesti and Libya were closed, so I took the easy route from Agadez to Tamanrasset.
Always great to see photos from the old neighborhood.
Douala to Khartoum would have been a great route, likewise Djibouti to Bangui. So many problems in CAR of course, although it's a country that's under my skin. I will post a few photos from the CAR section below (although sadly I lost the second half, all the good ones from Dzangha Sangha.My dream Africa route really has to be Douala, Cameroon to Berbera, Somaliland - coast to coast- crossing Cameroon, Central African Republic, South Sudan, Ethiopia and Somaliland
One can dream for now....The trou au natron was probably the main highlight of the Tibesti, it is staggeringly impressive. Coffee table book material without a doubt....
DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
Politics change and what is possible on day is impossible the next.
Got the trou up on Google maps right now. Bravo on a great trip! Color me jealous!
Got the trou up on Google maps right now. Bravo on a great trip! Color me jealous!
Thank you so much for posting this and giving us some glimpse of hope that we can go visit one day. My wife did a bit of work in the CAR and I have been interested since then.
Where did you start the trip? Did you drive/ship your Land Cruiser from the UK? Or rented it in Cameroon?
Where did you start the trip? Did you drive/ship your Land Cruiser from the UK? Or rented it in Cameroon?