Leg 5: San Diego to the ENTIRE Baja Peninsula Continued...
As we arrived at Playa San Pedrito we noticed that we were alone on the beach with two other groups of campers, both of whom we had met at Punta Conejo. One of the groups was building a campfire and invited us over. Before we made our way to the fire, a tiny ghost wandered over into our camp. His name was Ashwin and his parents were traveling with him in an old VW Synchro to South America. He announced his presence by yelling "Trick or Treat!" We had completely forgotten it was Halloween, but were so happy to see this little ghost and his family. We gave him some chocolate and then headed over to the campfire to tell ghost stories and sing songs.
The next morning we set up a volleyball net off of our friend Spirit's truck. His 60 year old dad was an amazing beach player, and we had a blast. I was too busy playing to take photos. We finally decided it was time to get in and surf once it got hot outside. There were rocks again and I was a little nervous surfing above them, but we were in deeper water than at Punta Conejo. Craig caught a few waves, I got tumbled a few times, and Julia eventually made it out past the break. A win for all of us that day. A little background on our surf experience- I'm from Kansas and saw the ocean for the first time when I was 19. I first tried surfing 4 years ago in Hawaii and loved it, later when we moved to San Diego I dabbled a tiny bit, but never fully committed myself to learning as I found rock climbing more appealing. Finally in July I decided to spend the whole month surfing, so I'm still basically a beginner, but at least I learned how to turtle roll and the general idea of what to do. Craig grew up around the ocean in Rhode Island, his dad is an avid stand up paddle surfer, and Craig is probably the most athletic person I've ever met. He retired from Track & Field (competing) and took up surfing with me in July. At this point he was still fairly beginner, but managed to ride waves occasionally. Julia is a total beginner and this is one of her first times on a surf board. Anyway, Playa San Peditro had some of the best surfers we'd seen so far, including the first (and some of the only other) female surfers we saw on the trip.
Salty Sunday mornings at Playa San Pedrito
We discovered after a couple of days that Cerritos was right down the road and had a more beginner friendly beach break. The water was an unbelievable color, and clear, just like most of the other beaches we surfed. This beach was more touristy, but still really nice. We met an American expat named Paul and he kindly offered to lend us his umbrella for the next week. Everyday we saw him at the beach and he gave us tips on surfing and was generally the nicest guy. He had been surfing for over 20 years, but said he still considered himself a kook. Don't be fooled though, he was very skilled and was having a blast every day we saw him out there.
Cerritos is where I really hit a block in the learning process. Most days the waves were fairly big and powerful. Craig loved this and got significantly better during this time. I just became terrified. I was held down under a couple waves, slammed, confused, and I became really scared of getting back out there. I took a day off when the waves were 8-10ft tall one day, knowing I would not have a good time, and before I knew it we were heading over to Cabo Pulmo to go snorkeling. I had hit a surfers block and needed some time to work through it.
After a couple days snorkeling we needed to return Julia to the airport in La Paz. We camped for a night at Tecolote and then headed north, stopping at Bahia Concepcion again, and eventually ending up in the seven sisters region (Central Pacific Baja). We had briefly stopped by this area on our way down, but now the surf was breaking and we arrived just time to to catch the best waves of our lives.
Make America Mexico Again!
The best part about having a home on wheels is the view out the back window. No need for art on the walls, you get a new piece of art every day depending on where you park!
For the final two weeks of our Baja trip we stayed in the central Baja area driving the dirt roads between three breaks depending on what the swell was doing. This is where we really found our Baja flow, and our Baja tribe. There was a group migrating between these breaks and we fell in line with them, sitting with them in the line up, camping, and hanging out with them in the evenings. There was Mike from Alaska, and his pup Dungey, Andre from Brazil, Justin from Wyoming, and his pup Bear, and Spencer and Karolina from Las Vegas, and their pup Cappuccino. Other people floated in and out, Randy and his son Tom from Montana, and Baja surf culture fixture Glen Horn. Speaking of Glen, many of you will find him very interesting. He spends 9 months of the year in Baja- 6 months living out of the truck pictured below, 3 months at a treehouse he built in Scorpion Bay (see video
HERE), and the other 3 months at his home in San Diego. His wife Roberta joins him for extended periods in Baja, and he has been living this life since he retired at the ripe old age of 37. El Toro Rojo Grande, when set up in camp mode even boasts a weight room! Also, huge thanks to Glen for jumping our battery when we found it completely dead in the middle of nowhere. We had to drive into Guerrero Negro to get a new one.
When I saw there was another woman- Karolina- roaming around the camps, I nudged Craig. "Craig! There's a woman! We need to go make friends." He had barely noticed we hadn't seen a woman other than me in the line up for weeks, but I was painfully aware. We noticed their Sprinter (2wd) seemed to be stuck in the sand so we drove over along with Andre and Justin to pull it out. Karolina invited us to their site for drinks and I finally had a woman to talk to about the Baja experience. I was so excited. Over the next few days we urged each other to get out there and try, often going out together. The guys in the line up were amazing and encouraging, pushing us to catch waves we were scared of, and insisting we were one step closer to riding a wave every time we wiped out. This group helped me to not be intimidated by the line up, and even though they were shredding Craig and I felt like with a little more practice we could shred too. Here is Karolina and Spencer's rig at our campsite one night.
Stay tuned for our final Baja installment, coming soon! We finally learn to shred...well Craig has been shredding for a week or so at this point, but I'm too busy getting tumbled in the waves to take photos of him doing it.