Photography tips for beginners

[workerdrone]

Wondering if there would be interest in a thread here for beginning photographers to get tips on how to improve their photos and camera settings - maybe a sticky?

Still photography alone can be intimidatingly complex for many folks I know, since there are so many variables involved in camera settings, environmental conditions, and artistic composition and 'vision' that the answer to, "what's the best way to do x" is usually, "it depends" from someone who has a solid grasp of the basics.

And then most cameras today will shoot video, which is another subject entirely -

I would offer a couple of tips to start with, a couple of pet peeves if you will from watching other folks struggle to get shots as good as they imagine them in their heads at the time they press the shutter

- Use your lens hood - the manufacturer provides it for a good reason. I chuckle inwardly when I see folks that just told me they are 'photographers' walking around taking pictures with their hood stowed away in the reversed position on their lens, doing nothing for them. A lens hood will improve color and contrast, protect against unwanted flare and possible impact damage, and can improve focusing speed and accuracy. Your lens was designed with its use in mind by some extremely clever people who know more about imaging than any of us probably ever will. If you don't use it, it's like driving your Rubicon with bald tires, you're starting with a handicap

- Get into (M)anual mode whenever you have time and can do so - if you spend all your time shooting in Program / Full Auto / or even worse, 'Scene' modes, you will never actually know what your camera is doing and will never learn the foundational basics. All pros do not shoot in manual mode, many might almost never do so, but they could - they know how to control every aspect of their cameras and they know exactly what their camera is trying to do as they use some of the semi auto modes or assistive automatic features that save them time and increase their reaction speeds and ability to think creatively. They know when the camera will be fooled and those automatic assists should be turned off.

 

[teotwaki]

Polarizer for the lens! They offer amazing improvement for color or eliminating annoying glare.

 

[workerdrone]

Oh and if people would like to keep this going, I guess I'd just request that we try to stick to facts and solid basic advice - not get into "what brand is better" opinions or attempts to promote your own work or style - thanks!

 

[workerdrone]

Polarizer for the lens! They offer amazing improvement for color or eliminating annoying glare.

Sure, love polarizers many times, would you like to expand on when you'd want to use one and when you would not?

 

[workerdrone]

Oh no! Opinions already I don't have neck straps 95% of the time on my cameras - but it's completely debatable what's the 'best' way to secure your equipment from dropping or damage

My preference is to have my bodies naked

So I can attach L brackets, Arca plates, or several different kinds of straps I have that use the tripod socket for their attachment point. It bugs me when I'm tripod mounted and have additional straps in the way, when there might already be a cable release, and a cable for tethering, and a bag hanging from the tripod, etc...

 

[teotwaki]

Sure, love polarizers many times, would you like to expand on when you'd want to use one and when you would not?

There are way too many web sites to point to that explain it all so well: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/polarizing-filters.htm

I can point to pictures that I have taken where a polarizer enabled me to emphasize something such as the dull and muddy Colorado River at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. By capturing reflected light the presence of water a mile down is easier to spot rather than be lost in the shadows

 

[workerdrone]

Good point. When I was starting out with film years ago I used to use a polarizer to darken blue skies - I almost never do this anymore since it can be difficult to correct any uneven effect later and that effect can easily be duplicated in post processing software. Back in the film days I also had a bunch of different types of filters, now I only have 3 - Polarizers, Neutral density filters, and UV filters.

Polarizers - reduce glare, increase contrast, completely adjustable to dial in the amount or the actual locations of glare and reflections while looking through the viewfinder
Neutral density filters - just reduce light. Allows you to use long exposures to intentionally blur movement (think of those soft waterfall pictures), or to use lenses wide open in bright light (to keep a shallow depth of field)
UV - just for lens protection. I only use them when I'm in an abusive environment where I'm pretty sure the glass on my lens is going to get touched, hit, or dirty. Otherwise I don't use them at all, they will only reduce ultimate quality.

 

[GhostRing]

As a recent DSLR noob, a few things I am starting to effectively understand are:

how to interpret a histogram.
spot metering vs evaluative.
making ISO your **********.

The other arena is knowing your way around editing software.
This can turn a mediocre picture into something worthwhile
as long as you have some image data to mess with.

 

[workerdrone]

Haha I'd love to hear about that 3rd one ISO (the modern equivalent to film speed), or the sensitivity setting of your camera's sensor to light levels, is pretty much always best kept as low as possible (as close to base as possible). Raising ISO to allow you to keep shutter speeds up, or stop your lens down further, will reduce the quality of the image. Every new batch of sensors and cameras that come out get better and better at keeping higher ISO's to acceptable quality so that now it almost seems you can shoot handheld in the dark.

But a tripod with base ISO will still give you the best files with amazing latitude in post processing

 

[colorado matt]

first got my dslr I would shoot tons of pics and then go thru and find the good ones ... fun and no money spent on film ... I was in heaven .... joined a local photography club and first thing I learned was how much I did not know .... turning off auto and understanding what actually made pictures look like they look was an eye opener ... also figuring what it was that I actually wanted to photograph .... I am still quite lost about editing programs ... but I understand my camera much better and the pics prove that I am getting better .... a book "understanding exposure" helped me a lot .... I do miss going to the store to pic up my pictures ... it was kind of exciting ... I know that there are probably better places than walgreens to get things developed but getting on their email list I receive every so often 6 cent prints if get a bunch done ... load the files .. send it off and get a email saying pics are ready .... kids love having something tangible in their hands and pics make great gifts .... i guess the tip in my ramble is ..learn your camera beyond the auto setting and play around with them ... the picture in my mind is often not what the camera thinks it should be ... Matt ...... subscribed to learn more ...

 

[TravelsWithRalph]

Pretty big subject: Photo tips for beginners but here's my top three. 1) On this, I agree with Ken Rockwell that you should be learn to Drive Your Camera. Play with it and use the manual to learn one bit at a time and practice those bits. Don't try reading the manual front to back unless you're trying to fall asleep. Find a button on your camera and read about what it does and how to use it. Find something in the manual then try it on the camera. Can you switch your DSLR to manual focus in the dark? 2) Rule of Thirds. You have to know and use the rules before you can break the rules. 3) straight horizons on your landscapes. This may be my biggest pet peeve. And don't put them in the middle of the frame (refer to #2).

 

[workerdrone]

True - people don't realize that a major, major reason that the pro's pictures often look so amazing is the professional level processing that goes into them.

Yes, they have the best photo gear and they know what light is going to work best, but just as darkroom skills used to be critical, proficiency in at least one or two post processing programs is also critical for getting impressive final results. I happen to shoot 99% of my photos in RAW format, with the result that right out of camera, the photos will look soft and blah. A couple minutes on the computer and they come alive.

I'd be happy to answer folks' questions too if anyone would like to pose some - maybe you've been wondering why one 200mm lens will cost $200 while another will cost $2000 and still another will cost $6000? Or what the supposed buzz is about "full frame" cameras these days? Or if gadget x or camera y is going to help you take better pictures of z?

 

[Retired Tanker]

Uh, let's see. Photography 101...

Shoot portraits with a longer lens; it makes people more attractive than being too close or using wide angles and makes it easier to blur the background.

Stop the aperture down to make the background crisp (known as increasing the Depth of Field). Open it up to blur the background/foreground while keeping the subject in focus (Decreases the Depth of Field).

Action shots; slow the shutter speed and pan with the moving subject to blur the background. In fact, "Freezing" the action can get boring; anyone can do that. Figure out what to blur to show motion.

I've never liked my neck strap; it just doesn't feel right having a camera around my neck. But every time I pick my camera up I wind the strap around my right wrist for security.

For scenics, try to get a foreground, mid-ground, and background in the shot. It helps the mind interpret scale.

Also, when shooting portraits (or maybe just pictures with people in them), try to have them facing towards the center of the shot. If they're looking at something "out of frame" it's distracting.

Now, as someone said, these are basic fundamentals off of the top of my head. There are times when violating them can yield better pictures. But when you do, do so with a deliberate decisions to achieve an affect.

I learned photography from the instructor at an Army Recreation Center in Baumholder Germany back in the 80s. He had been assigned to one of Hitler's journalism teams. He was injured during the "Valkyrie" attempt and walked with a limp. ANYWAY, due to his tutelage I still try to capture the shot "in camera." I not very keen on post-processing. My daughter has Lightroom, and has promised to show me how to use it...but...

My weakness is artificial lighting; fills, floods, spots, etc. I'm much more comfortable shooting outdoors in natural light.

Anyway, just my $.02.

 

[workerdrone]

Great $.02

If anyone is interested in learning about flash photography, I highly recommend this free online series (no affiliation) -

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

 

[robgendreau]

Good point. When I was starting out with film years ago I used to use a polarizer to darken blue skies - I almost never do this anymore since it can be difficult to correct any uneven effect later and that effect can easily be duplicated in post processing software. Back in the film days I also had a bunch of different types of filters, now I only have 3 - Polarizers, Neutral density filters, and UV filters.

I used a polarizer a bunch on recent trip; I still think even with post processing of RAW that sometimes they give a cool effect on clouds that can be sorta tough at times to duplicate, although it's a close call now.

But one big caveat: if you wanna do panoramas (and I love doing those) take OFF the polarizer. The different angles will produce sky effects that are hard to get rid of.

And polarizers are still better than post processing for penetrating glare on glass, water and other reflective surfaces.

And although I can be found just holding the camera, I too prefer a strap...but a shoulder strap. They have some slidy ones like the Joby, Blackrapid, etc that can hug your body but extend right quick. A hand strap can be nice too. Especially if you change lenses in the field.

And I also think everyone should get an old manual lens and use it for goofing around, if nothing else. You might take some risks with it, make a lot of mistakes, have few keepers, etc. But you learn a lot. And sometimes get amazing stuff. And they're cheap: check out www.shopgoodwill.com. Put a reversing ring on, shoot with the lens detached, smear some oil on the lens, go wild.

And one more, although this is repeated over and over and over: get a good tripod. Spend more than you think is right. Almost everyone compromises, then finally buys the right one the second time after blowing money. And go for sturdy first. I'd also say that trying to get one tripod that's good for everything (video, removable monopod, light weight, compactness) etc is a big waste in the end, a false economy.