Picked up a Bantam BT3-C trailer. <<UPDATE 2017>>

[NOMADIC_LJ]

Will the studs not drill/knock out?

Rusted solid to the hub. I'm going to try and drill them out

 

[djaraceandrally]

Try soaking them in a good pentrating oil too. Not wd40!! Maybe a bit of heat from a set or blow lamp might help too?

 

[NOMADIC_LJ]

I've used POR15 on many projects including my trailer with good results. A little bit goes a long way and once you've opened the can you either have to use it all or carefully store what you don't use. Unless I'm doing a lot of painting in one shot, I open the can, pour it into smaller glass jars filled to the top and use them as I need them. There's a lot on line about the best ways to use POR15 and it's wise to read up on it before you start. If you just open the can, paint a few things and put the lid back on you may not be able to get it off again. If you can the paint will have likely hardened and become useless any way.

Here's how it turned out on my trailer ...
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/148123-PCO6-s-Trailer-Build

WOW! I really like your trailer build. You are a craftsman sir! and thanks for the heads up on the POR15. I just started to take off some of the surface rust with a wire wheel and like you, I anticipate a lot of time spent with this hunk of metal

 

[PCO6]

Thanks! I appreciate the compliment. I've been making some progress on it but not enough. I got side tracked with rebuilding my XJ (floors, rockers, etc.) and to make matters worse (better actually!) I just bought an LJ. It's in good shape but I need to do a few things (just picked up new front fenders for it today). I'll be using POR15 on both Jeeps. Hopefully I'll be able to provide an update on my trailer thread soon.

 

[grnhornetcustoms]

On the Scrap yard M100 I had to torch off the reverse studs with the rust welded lug nuts.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[atavuss]

If you support the area around the stud hole on the hub you should be able to knock the old stud out with a hammer as long as the stud is not tack welded to the hub, try using a large thick walled socket under the hub or put the hub on a vice opened enough to support around the stud hole (you will need to take the hub off the axle to do this). I have a 1947 Civilian Bantam and I was lucky enough to have gotten extra sets of hubs with my trailer so I replaced the left hub with a right hub so all the studs were right handed thread. The hubs are the same that early CJ's use. Possibly the hubs might be the same as military WWll MB and GPW Jeeps.
What is your serial number on the plate on the upper driver's side plate? I have #14849.
Have you thought about how you will carry your kayaks? I carry a Hobie Pro Angler on three pipe racks that sit in the stake pockets inside the trailer. On top of the pipe racks I have a 4" ABS pipe to support the kayak.
The stock Fulton hitch on my Bantam was worn out so I fabbed a mount and installed a multi-axis hitch.

 

[NOMADIC_LJ]

Thanks Atavuss. I'm going to work on the trailer over the weekend. I'm going to remove the axle so I can work on the frame/tube freely and so I can remove the hub as well. Plan is to let it soak in penetrating oil for about a week before I try and take the studs out.

It sickens me to think that they were reversed out and I snapped them off. How is one to know though?!?

As far as putting the kayaks on top, this image below has been my inspiration since I bought the trailer. Its even the same color as my junk.

 

[atavuss]

Thanks Atavuss. I'm going to work on the trailer over the weekend. I'm going to remove the axle so I can work on the frame/tube freely and so I can remove the hub as well. Plan is to let it soak in penetrating oil for about a week before I try and take the studs out.

It sickens me to think that they were reversed out and I snapped them off. How is one to know though?!?

As far as putting the kayaks on top, this image below has been my inspiration since I bought the trailer. Its even the same color as my junk.

That is my Bantam and Hobie Pro Angler! I just pulled the fenders and pipe racks to have them powder coated OD green and I have been using rubbing compound to get rid of the gray primer and oxidized black paint. The PO had used a brush to slap on the black paint but after removing the oxidation it looks ok from 20' away.
I am the second owner as the trailer had been in the same family since it was new.
I got rid of the Yakima saddles because the weight of the Pro Angler collapsed them and now use 4" black ABS pipe to support the PA.

 

[Robert Bills]

. . .I'm going to work on the trailer over the weekend. I'm going to remove the axle so I can work on the frame/tube freely and so I can remove the hub as well. Plan is to let it soak in penetrating oil for about a week before I try and take the studs out.

It sickens me to think that they were reversed out and I snapped them off. How is one to know though?!? . . .

Left hand studs are typically marked with an "L" on the end, although the marking may be tough to see with old studs with corrosion and years of paint build up. They will be on the left side of your trailer, also the rear shackle.

You should take a look at the technical service manual for the WWII MBT/T3 trailers, also the M100. The axles, hub parts, shackles are the same on the T3-C. I purchased reprints several years ago from a company called Portrayal Press. I am told the company is no longer is business but you may still be able to find hard copies. The manuals are also available for download. http://jeepdraw.com/images/jeepdraw/ADOBE_ACROBAT_FILES/TM-10-1281-TRAILER.pdf;



The 1/4 ton trailer forum on g503.com is a wealth of knowledge [http://g503.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=18], as are http://bantamt3c.com/images/hubbard/pages/bantam.html, the "Focus on Trailers" pages at http://www.jeepdraw.com/, and http://bantamt3c.com/.

Here is the parts list for the Bantam T3 and T3-C axle:


4 - Cone and Roller Bearing, Timken 18590
4 - Roller Bearing Cup, Timken 18520
2 - Hub oil seal assembly, Spicer 17004 (also National 40566, Chicago Rawhide (CR)21101)
2 - Outer wheel bearing washer, Spicer 17015
2 - Outer wheel bearing nut, Spicer 17016
2 - Outer wheel bearing nut lock washer, Spicer 17017
2 - Wheel flange gasket, Spicer 17146 or GP-4032 (WWII Ford Jeep)


Springs, shackles and bushings are the same as for a Willys Jeep MB, CJ-2, CJ-3 or early CJ-5 front axle.


I purchased my springs, shackles and bushings from Walck's Four Wheel Drive (http://walcks4wd.com), 700 Cedar Street Bowmanstown, PA 18030, (610) 852-3110.


I purchased my axle parts from Border Parts, 3875 Bancroft Drive Spring Valley, CA 91977, (619) 461-0171.


Both of these companies are familiar with the axle and suspension for Bantam trailers (and also the WWII Bantam T3 and Willys MBT, and Korean War era M100). All use the same parts. Both companies should be able to provide you with everything you need.


The axle parts (bearings, seals, etc.) interchange with parts for the jeep Spicer 23 rear axle (used on Willys MB, Ford GPW, CJ-2 and CJ-3).
The springs, bushings and shackles interchange with those parts on any early Willys Jeep front axle.

If you purchase new lug nuts, unless the previous owner changed the studs (or you do), the nuts on the left side of your trailer will need left-hand threads


Other sources for these parts may be Midwest Military (http://www.midwestmilitary.net, 16075 Highway 13 S., Prior Lake, Minnesota 55372, 952-440-8778, or Brent Mullins Jeep Parts,http://www.mullinsjeepparts.com, P.O. Box 9599
College Station TX 77842, 979-690-0203


Finally, a shot of my restored 1946 T3-C to prove that there is indeed light at the end of the tunnel:

 

[NOMADIC_LJ]

ATAVUSS - That is hilarious. I can't believe that is your trailer. Really love it. I was looking for wheels on Coker.com specifically cause I loved yours so much.I thought your rack was perfect for my kayaks but good to know about the bowing problem you had

ROBERT - My God that is some trailer. First of though I want to thank you for all the resources you've provided. I spent some time on G503 just going through all the threads trying to find info for my trailer. I appreciate you taking the time to list everything out for me. That trailer is a work of art though, I'd be afraid to use it it looks so clean and new.

Just a quick update:
So I got to work on the trailer this weekend. After snapping two more bolts I ended up cutting the u-bolts off and dropping the axle. The rest of the day I spent taking off the surface rust. I figure I have a couple of more days doing that and using the dremel to get into the hard to reach areas. I'd like to get as much of the surface rust as I can before I apply the POR15. The good news is the metal looks better than I originally thought. This gave me a little hope. I may try and patch up the cancer on the bed instead of replacing the entire bottom. Some pics...

 

[NOMADIC_LJ]

UPDATE Feb 2017

I bought this trailer about 6 months ago and have been busy this last fall and winter working on it. I'm not one to build a proper build thread as I just don't have time. I did want to post a few pics for the other Bantam owners on here to see whats become of this little trailer.

Its been a pretty fun project so far. This is what was addressed:

• I was able to work on the rust and get that under control
• Axle was completely serviced
• Original Firestone tires located from Coker
• Wheels are from a CJ2A on Craigslist
• tailgate chains and covers from Ebay
• Completely rewired
• I repaired and sealed the ugly holes that were cut out of the back for two more lights
• Primed / Sanded / Painted

The plan was to get this to look stock. I really like the vintage look of these civilian trailers. I used as much of the original as I could.







Next up is STAGE TWO:

This includes building the cover/frame support. I'm going to enclose it and add racks on top for the kayaks. The good thing is I've already done a lot of work on it. I had to stop for about a month on STAGE ONE when it got so cold that nothing was curing. The weather eased up a bit and I was able to get it to where it is now. Love this little trailer! can't wait to take it out for its first family camping trip this spring.

 

[SheepnJeep]

Wow, that trailer is starting to look really nice! I really have to put an effort into finding one someday soon.

Tough lesson on the left hand lugs! I guess in the future be suspicious on any vintage vehicle as it was common practice at one time. My dad has a Packard and my Willys jeep were both left handers on that side. Oh well. I take it you just pressed in new ones? Probably not a bad idea after all the years anyway.

Have you checked out this website yet?

http://bantamt3c.com/

I have been lurking it big time.

Great job so far, it looks really cool.

 

[atavuss]

Looking good! What are the chains from or for? My Bantam never had tail gate chains and I can see where they had been cut off.

 

[NOMADIC_LJ]

Wow, that trailer is starting to look really nice! I really have to put an effort into finding one someday soon.

Have you checked out this website yet?

http://bantamt3c.com/

I have been lurking it big time.

Great job so far, it looks really cool.

Thank you so much! yes I've scoured that site for info these last few months I've worked on my project. BTW I'm in love with your 3A.

Looking good! What are the chains from or for? My Bantam never had tail gate chains and I can see where they had been cut off.

The chains were from a Bantam trailer. Found them on Ebay with the canvas covers!

 

[SheepnJeep]

Thank you so much! yes I've scoured that site for info these last few months I've worked on my project. BTW I'm in love with your 3A.


View attachment 388946

Oh yes, it is a handful sometimes but it has been a great learning experience over the years. It really needs a Bantam trailer behind it! If you want to ruin your brains with all the Willys universal jeep knowledge you can handle check out the 3b page. http://www.cj3b.info/ Loads and loads of great stuff there.

This might be a decent set of chains a hooks for someones project, might come up a little short but links could be added


https://www.kaiserwillys.com/catego...cloth-covering-fits-46-71-cj-2a-3a-3b-5-truck