Yup, me again, rear springs, I tossed the helper spring and added a full length main spring. I bought mine from John Baker who obviously is no longer with us. I ran 5 leafs in total. I did most all of this build when the rig was just 12 years old, turbo swap, suspension, ARB locker,etcView attachment 745566
I have not looked at the rate numbers in a few decades, rate wise. get the 4 dr and cut as needed. Go a bit at a time but no reason to not do it. being the end of the last coil is functionally dead it simply is no issue. See what it drives like. Look at the 4dr sway bar as well. I just looked at some numbers, the 2dr swaybar is 20mm, the 4dr is 26mm
I suppose anything is possible. I also had a second V6 raidar as a parts car and it also had the 26mm, based on the old brackets that I still have. I almost wonder if it was something they did only on the Raider badge models rather than on the Mitsubishi ones.The parts books show 20 for the 2dr and 26 for the 4dr. The books also show 88 and 89 with a different Pn but both listed as 20mm. Yes yours may have a 26 but that might not be original.
I have done allot of spring swaps decades back by wandering salvage yards with rule and vernier in hand.
Since the shop was busy and they usually give me the hookup, I told them I'd just come back tomorrow to get them, not like I'm going anyplace. Other than that, the only thing I really did today was install the manual hubs that came in. Got a pair of new Aisin hubs
Under certain conditions yes. But they are inconsistent and they unlock if you have to go backwards, And they are hard to lock if you are already stuck lol. The manual hubs are much stronger and eliminate a possible points of failure when off-road.newbie question - why did you opt for manual hubs? Dont the OEM automatically hook up?
Hubs, they depend on your mission, If you primarily drive roads a car could get down and occasionally onto steeper rough stuff that for the most part you will make it through with minimal backing down, the factory hubs are fine.Now if you start driving tougher stuff that is steep rough where you routinely will have a wheel in the air and now need to back down just a bit to adjust your route, now it is common for the factory hub to disengage, and you generally will not know this till you break traction going forward and the hub slams in again.newbie question - why did you opt for manual hubs? Dont the OEM automatically hook up?
That small amount actually changed the feel of the handling? I mean I get it on a race car, little adjustments equal major changes in feel, but for a normal street car just doing the grocery run?
That small amount actually changed the feel of the handling? I mean I get it on a race car, little adjustments equal major changes in feel, but for a normal street car just doing the grocery run?