texascrane
Adventurer
It's just the standard black color you get at home depot.
Plasti Dip longevity on wheels?
- Thread starter StreetsofCompton
- Start date
Hillbilly Heaven
Explorer
Wow don't know how I missed this subject. I have been researching DIP as it is called in the market versus vinyl wrap (Wrap). My interest is in coating the whole vehicle as a paint protectant. To prevent the custom tree limb and brush pinstriping. Just like most anything there are various types of dipping products ranging from the part store rattle can stuff to professional dip.
Prep in all cases is key in getting long term life out of the products. Surface must be clean of all contaminants. After washing use solvent to remove most of the chemical residues then follow up with an isopropyl alcohol to remove remaining chemical residue.
Rattle can stuff does not give long term service in most cases it does not have to appearance of a typical automotive finish. Most lack gloss and depth. They can not be sanded or polished. These type of coatings will give you a 10 foot finish. You can tell from 10 feet away it is not paint.
A step up from this is called ProLine that must be sprayed like automotive paint. It is not available in aerosol cans but can be sprayed with inexpensive turbine HVLP paint systems. A system like the Wagner Motocoat can be used for application in a garage or shop.
https://www.wagnerspraytech.com/nc/motocoat/
https://www.dipyourcar.com/pages/proline-by-dipyourcar
The top of the line is a product called AutoFlex. It is a professional product with properties like an automotive finish that can be sanded, wax, buffed, and polished. It has the appearance with gloss and depth as automotive paint. Someone would have to look closely to tell it was not paint. All this and yet it is a peelable coating. It must be applied by a professional in a spray booth. There is a list of authorized factory coaters. It is not for the average DIY type of guy in his garage. It will scratch like automotive paint but is somewhat self healing. A simple application of a heat gun and the scratches will disappear.
http://www.autoflexcoatings.com/
https://www.dipyourcar.com/ Seems to be the leading source and authority on peelable dip coatings. They publish a lot of video demos and tutorials. I recently had contact with them about my needs and received a good description of the various products. They would be your best source for information on peelable coating applications.
Sharing email reply I receive from DYC.
Prep in all cases is key in getting long term life out of the products. Surface must be clean of all contaminants. After washing use solvent to remove most of the chemical residues then follow up with an isopropyl alcohol to remove remaining chemical residue.
Rattle can stuff does not give long term service in most cases it does not have to appearance of a typical automotive finish. Most lack gloss and depth. They can not be sanded or polished. These type of coatings will give you a 10 foot finish. You can tell from 10 feet away it is not paint.
A step up from this is called ProLine that must be sprayed like automotive paint. It is not available in aerosol cans but can be sprayed with inexpensive turbine HVLP paint systems. A system like the Wagner Motocoat can be used for application in a garage or shop.
https://www.wagnerspraytech.com/nc/motocoat/
https://www.dipyourcar.com/pages/proline-by-dipyourcar
The top of the line is a product called AutoFlex. It is a professional product with properties like an automotive finish that can be sanded, wax, buffed, and polished. It has the appearance with gloss and depth as automotive paint. Someone would have to look closely to tell it was not paint. All this and yet it is a peelable coating. It must be applied by a professional in a spray booth. There is a list of authorized factory coaters. It is not for the average DIY type of guy in his garage. It will scratch like automotive paint but is somewhat self healing. A simple application of a heat gun and the scratches will disappear.
http://www.autoflexcoatings.com/
https://www.dipyourcar.com/ Seems to be the leading source and authority on peelable dip coatings. They publish a lot of video demos and tutorials. I recently had contact with them about my needs and received a good description of the various products. They would be your best source for information on peelable coating applications.
Sharing email reply I receive from DYC.
MLu
Adventurer
I used a Plasti-Dip -like product from a local manufacturer on my wheels a couple of years ago. Primarily because I wanted to change the color without the hassle of paint, but also to give the wheels just an extra layer of protection against light scratches, road salt and so on. But mostly just for ****s and giggles. Has held up really well over two winters and two summers. That being said, this is no show car, and I've washed the wheels using pretty much just a quick wet brush and a power washer. No peeling, no deep scratches. It's a matte finish, so it gets dirty fast and looks dirty even though you wash it. The winters in southern Finland are mild (+5 to -20 centigrade) and very wet with a liberal helping of road salt. It's my daily driver, gets taken off road every now and again, and I don't think twice about driving through bushes and stuff, so I would say it's a fair test.
Based on my experience; for the effort it takes, the cost and the result I would easily recommend using a plast-dip type product on the wheels. Looks great from across the street. Looks just fine from five feet away. If you're worried about anything closer than that you probably shouldn't be driving a Land Rover that's old enough to drink.
That's the wheels, mind you. I used the same product to black out the flat part of the hood for last summer's trip. It works brilliantly [pun intended], my eyes don't get as tired, cuts the reflections down to nothing. That being said, since the dip ends without a body gap, you need to take it easy when washing and waxing or you might tear it. Power washing is absolutely fine. Washing with a wet brush is absolutely fine (though not good for actual paint finishes...), but waxing takes a bit of concentration to not touch it. I used it because that's what I had and wanted to try it. For a more permanent job I would use paint for this particular application.
I've also used it on the plastic trim pieces along the doors, they were faded, cracked and generally crappy. I sprayed several thick layers about a year ago, and it's so good I didn't even remember it until now. It looks like generic black plastic, looks like it came from the factory. Would definitely use it again, I don't think you could get paint that nice and thick to cover up actual cracks in the plastic without faffing about with glue and sand paper and all that.
Twice I've tried it to black out the Land Rover lettering on the front. Doesn't work, peels and looks ****ty after a few months even with thick coats. The letters are not thick enough to create a sharp enough edge. Works great on other badges and trim pieces on other cars.
In my experience, dip absolutely has its applications, but the comparison should be rattle can paint, not a paint shop finish. Unless your life depends on how well the surface finish on your rims or trim pieces hold up, I would perhaps stick to something that is "good enough" rather than something that is "proper, expedition ready". Would I use this stuff on a vintage Jaguar? No. An old Disco? Yes.
(pic purely for illustrative purposes, can't be arsed to go and take proper pictures right now)
Based on my experience; for the effort it takes, the cost and the result I would easily recommend using a plast-dip type product on the wheels. Looks great from across the street. Looks just fine from five feet away. If you're worried about anything closer than that you probably shouldn't be driving a Land Rover that's old enough to drink.
That's the wheels, mind you. I used the same product to black out the flat part of the hood for last summer's trip. It works brilliantly [pun intended], my eyes don't get as tired, cuts the reflections down to nothing. That being said, since the dip ends without a body gap, you need to take it easy when washing and waxing or you might tear it. Power washing is absolutely fine. Washing with a wet brush is absolutely fine (though not good for actual paint finishes...), but waxing takes a bit of concentration to not touch it. I used it because that's what I had and wanted to try it. For a more permanent job I would use paint for this particular application.
I've also used it on the plastic trim pieces along the doors, they were faded, cracked and generally crappy. I sprayed several thick layers about a year ago, and it's so good I didn't even remember it until now. It looks like generic black plastic, looks like it came from the factory. Would definitely use it again, I don't think you could get paint that nice and thick to cover up actual cracks in the plastic without faffing about with glue and sand paper and all that.
Twice I've tried it to black out the Land Rover lettering on the front. Doesn't work, peels and looks ****ty after a few months even with thick coats. The letters are not thick enough to create a sharp enough edge. Works great on other badges and trim pieces on other cars.
In my experience, dip absolutely has its applications, but the comparison should be rattle can paint, not a paint shop finish. Unless your life depends on how well the surface finish on your rims or trim pieces hold up, I would perhaps stick to something that is "good enough" rather than something that is "proper, expedition ready". Would I use this stuff on a vintage Jaguar? No. An old Disco? Yes.
(pic purely for illustrative purposes, can't be arsed to go and take proper pictures right now)
I coated the center caps on my rig with Plasti Dip... also coated my front bumper and grill. All three applications were over chrome plating with no "prep" other than using Windex to clean 'em. After 1.5yrs far the center caps are doing very well - no chips or peels despite being removed and replaced a few times for wheel/tire changes/maintenance. The grill and front bumper have chips but no peeling. YMMV of course but I'm happy enough because I could do all this myself with little investment and that whole lack of commitment thing by not using real paint... haha!
TheGetLostTaco
We go places
I used high temp grill paint. Prepped and painted.... when I get a knock and scratch I just spray a little more on and it works great. I love PD but I only use it on other parts than wheels (grill, rails, hood under high power lights, etc.... bottom line... do what works for you and what YOU like caveat as long as function > form. 
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