Plywood camper fabrication questions (thinking of idaSho)

[ReluctantTraveler]

I had two specific fabrication questions for @IdaSHO.

In the past, I think you mentioned that if you were going to do it all again today, you'd use a wooden frame instead of steel. Related to that (and how you've done your past fabrication)...

1. If you properly scuff the plywood exterior, can you Monstaliner directly onto it, or do you need to put an epoxy sublayer first?
2. How would you reinforce the areas where your jacks mount? Or would the wooden framing alone support that weight?

Thanks in advance!

 

[IdaSHO]

Hey there!

I believe what I said was that I would use much less steel.
The camper is built upon a steel frame.

If I were to build it again, I would would integrate some steel into the corners for jack attachment points, and nothing else.
I would not expect wood to hold bolt (to wood) or screwed (to wood) jack points for the long haul.

As far as monstaliner goes, the biggest issue with applying a coating like monsta to a product like wood, is the differences in the materials.
Namely, how hard/dense it is. Wood in its "natural state" just isn't hard enough to hold a product like monsta AND manage hits/abuse.
So you need to harden the surface. Epoxy does just that. And while you are at it with epoxy, you may as well smooth the surface and blend joints.
Then when you apply your paint or coating, you have a monolithic surface. No joints, no leaks.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

Hey there!

I believe what I said was that I would use much less steel.
The camper is built upon a steel frame.

If I were to build it again, I would would integrate some steel into the corners for jack attachment points, and nothing else.
I would not expect wood to hold bolt (to wood) or screwed (to wood) jack points for the long haul.

As far as monstaliner goes, the biggest issue with applying a coating like monsta to a product like wood, is the differences in the materials.
Namely, how hard/dense it is. Wood in its "natural state" just isn't hard enough to hold a product like monsta AND manage hits/abuse.
So you need to harden the surface. Epoxy does just that. And while you are at it with epoxy, you may as well smooth the surface and blend joints.
Then when you apply your paint or coating, you have a monolithic surface. No joints, no leaks.

This is great, thanks! For the integrated steel, what would that actually look like? Would these be square steel tubes that the wooden frame attaches or slides into?

 

[mangymarmot]

I’m interested…slowly going down that same path soon. ?

 

[IdaSHO]

This is great, thanks! For the integrated steel, what would that actually look like? Would these be square steel tubes that the wooden frame attaches or slides into?

Id avoid tube all-together and just use plate.

Similar to whats actually in the camper, but without the tub frame.
See the one triangular plate? Id add another forming a V, so it ties into two walls/sections of the camper.
Then thru-bolt it thru wood framing and with steel plate on the other side.

Clear as mud?

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

Id avoid tube all-together and just use plate.

Similar to whats actually in the camper, but without the tub frame.
See the one triangular plate? Id add another forming a V, so it ties into two walls/sections of the camper.
Then thru-bolt it thru wood framing and with steel plate on the other side.

Clear as mud?

Yes actually! Sorta like this?

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Duc5L7ev9nM/maxresdefault.jpg

 

[PCO6]

I’m interested…slowly going down that same path soon. ?

Me too.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

@mangymarmot @PCO6 nice! idaSHO’s build is the DIY gold standard, in my opinion.

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

@IdaSHO a related question that just occurred to me: how would you attach the frame for the bottom of the cab over to the rest of the box?

it seems like a pretty high amount of force at a single point of failure. One idea that comes to mind is that the beams on either outside wall could be run further into the body of the camper, providing additional support, similar to a cantilever deck.

unfortunately, my design has the entry door right behind the cab of the truck, which prohibits this type of design.

it seems like you’d want some sort of heavy duty lag bolt somewhere to hold everything in place.

 

[IdaSHO]

If you have a door just behind the front wall, cabover forces on the cabin will be focussed most on roof and belly of the cabover. Roof will in in tension and belly will be in compression. So as long as the front wall is strong enough to resist those compressive forces (pushing it in) you should be fine. Id still make sure the wall opposite the door side has a skin that spans that junction between cabin and cabover, to provide some shear. ?

 

[84FLH]

Id avoid tube all-together and just use plate.

Similar to whats actually in the camper, but without the tub frame.
See the one triangular plate? Id add another forming a V, so it ties into two walls/sections of the camper.
Then thru-bolt it thru wood framing and with steel plate on the other side.

Clear as mud?

Fantastic work. I see a hinge pin between the two steel pieces. Would you please tell me what the hinge is for?

 

[IdaSHO]

Fantastic work. I see a hinge pin between the two steel pieces. Would you please tell me what the hinge is for?

Sorry for the slow response.

The "hinge" you see are simple attachment points I designed and integrated into the camper.
I'm prepping the truck and camper this weekend for a winter trip, Ill take some photos of the setup.

 

[IdaSHO]

Fantastic work. I see a hinge pin between the two steel pieces. Would you please tell me what the hinge is for?

Here are some (rather terrible) Iphone pics from this morning.
Ill let the photos do the talkin' but let me know if you need more info.

 

[84FLH]

Cool. Removable jack stands? For narrow trails?

Those jacks lift the camper off the truck? And, on each jack stand, those 3 bushings (2 for hinge pin, 1 for horizontally mounted bolt) are the only thing holding the entire weight of the camper?

How much does the camper weigh?

Thanks....

========================

Ah, never mind. I see the 2 hinge pin bushings are welded to that triangular plate, which is welded to the camper frame. Smart. Very smart.

Same question, though. How much does the camper weigh?

Looking forward to mini-report of the winter camp trip. Outside temp vs. inside temp, etc.

 

[IdaSHO]

The jacks are only used loading and unloading, then removed once loaded. The jacks themselves are electric remote control jacks that make loading/unloading very safe and easy.

The dry weight of the camper is roughly 2200lbs.
Wet and loaded it is about 3000lbs.

Winter trips are nothing new. We have spent more than a week in one location with temps that dip near -20F and highs of (still) below zero. And dozens of trips well below freezing. Camper does great.