mountainsports2002
Observer
Doing some rust repairs to my truck bed and it will be removed. Thinking about coating the truck’s frame with POR-15 rust encapsulator while it is off. Would like to know the forum’s opinion on this product.
Por-15 opinions and Experiences
- Thread starter mountainsports2002
- Start date
mountainsports2002
Observer
Thanks for the reply.
JaSAn
Grumpy Old Man
I did the frame, bumpers, winch, and underbody of a '51 Power Wagon about 15 years ago; still no rust. It is impervious to brake fluid, gas, oil, gear lube, lacquer thinner.
A couple of things:
- get and use a fresh air breathing mask, not just a filter. This stuff can do damage to your lungs if you breathe it in.
- follow their directions for metal prep.
I sandblasted the metal, washed with their cleaner, used their metal prep, and covered the POR-15 with Chassis Coat Black.
A couple of things:
- get and use a fresh air breathing mask, not just a filter. This stuff can do damage to your lungs if you breathe it in.
- follow their directions for metal prep.
I sandblasted the metal, washed with their cleaner, used their metal prep, and covered the POR-15 with Chassis Coat Black.
mountainsports2002
Observer
Thanks for the information, love the input.
Explorerinil
Observer
Great paint, used it for about 20 years or more on vehicle projects. Only issue is if the area you are paining is exposed directly to UV light, make sure to top coat it.
mountainsports2002
Observer
Thanks for the information will be going on the frame and underneath the bed.
dreadlocks
Well-known member
Used it to seal the inside of the fuel tank on my 75 westy, if it were to f'up in there it would quickly cause all sorts of issues.. prep is critical as always.
vtsoundman
OverAnalyzer
Clean the metal - the flakey stuff. Works best of applied over a light layer of rust. It is called Pour Over Rust /Paint Over Rust...it is really nice stuff.
The fumes are very very toxic - read the MSDS - it is loaded with isocyanates.
Use a OV respirator when messing with this stuff. one can develop toxic shock pretty quickly and one of the lasting issues can be heightened sensitivity to chemicals. Not to be a fear monger - but I love the stuff and have personally witnessed what can happen if you mess around with isocyanates (and POR-15).
Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
The fumes are very very toxic - read the MSDS - it is loaded with isocyanates.
Use a OV respirator when messing with this stuff. one can develop toxic shock pretty quickly and one of the lasting issues can be heightened sensitivity to chemicals. Not to be a fear monger - but I love the stuff and have personally witnessed what can happen if you mess around with isocyanates (and POR-15).
Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
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DirtWhiskey
Western Dirt Rat
I have used POR 15 with success but it is highly prep dependent for whatever reason. I've now switched to Mastercoat which is a two part system: https://nomorerust.com/store/home/14-mastercoat-super-special-chassis-kit.html
It is a primer (the best primer I've ever used) and a top coat frame paint called AG111 and it's the best system I've used. They made their name in the bridge painting game. In my experience way less prep sensitive. You really need to knock the scale and any loose stuff off for any product but I've put this stuff over roughed up painted surfaces and it really holds. Not cheap but most of your cost will be labor (don't forget to value your time!) anyway so a few extra shekels doesn't bother me. Buy some paint stripper wheels (be sure to verify your grinder doesn't exceed the wheels rpm rating, or better yet get a variable speed grinder) and maybe an air needle scaler. Better yet have the frame blasted!
Of note as mentioned these frame paint systems are all highly toxic so I don't recommend spraying unless you have a real ventilator system.
It is a primer (the best primer I've ever used) and a top coat frame paint called AG111 and it's the best system I've used. They made their name in the bridge painting game. In my experience way less prep sensitive. You really need to knock the scale and any loose stuff off for any product but I've put this stuff over roughed up painted surfaces and it really holds. Not cheap but most of your cost will be labor (don't forget to value your time!) anyway so a few extra shekels doesn't bother me. Buy some paint stripper wheels (be sure to verify your grinder doesn't exceed the wheels rpm rating, or better yet get a variable speed grinder) and maybe an air needle scaler. Better yet have the frame blasted!
Of note as mentioned these frame paint systems are all highly toxic so I don't recommend spraying unless you have a real ventilator system.
Fredricksen
Member
I needle scaled my frame and gave it the POR 15 treatment.
AND... My oil pan is an absolute abomination with rust and age..and JB weld (no judgement please)
I would need to lift the engine to replace the pan and that is not in the cards at the moment.
I called the POR 15 customer service line asking questions regarding which, if any, of their products could help..
I was curious since they have patch and putty products as well.
The guy was super knowledgeable and helpful. He recommended I use their degreaser, then metal prep, then the Rust Preventive Coating like it was fiberglass resin.. alternating the coating with fiberglass matt to build up the layers and reinforce the pan. He said it is impervious to the oil, and the temperatures as well.
So that project is on my schedule for the end of the month.. yay me!
AND... My oil pan is an absolute abomination with rust and age..and JB weld (no judgement please)
I would need to lift the engine to replace the pan and that is not in the cards at the moment.
I called the POR 15 customer service line asking questions regarding which, if any, of their products could help..
I was curious since they have patch and putty products as well.
The guy was super knowledgeable and helpful. He recommended I use their degreaser, then metal prep, then the Rust Preventive Coating like it was fiberglass resin.. alternating the coating with fiberglass matt to build up the layers and reinforce the pan. He said it is impervious to the oil, and the temperatures as well.
So that project is on my schedule for the end of the month.. yay me!
Outdoorsben
Observer
A bit late to the thread but when I did a frame off restoration on a CJ5 we used it on all the metal parts under the body as well as the bumpers. Not a spec of rust on it 10years later in New England. We must have not put enough of the UV coat on it as the top of the bumper flaked off but the underside where there was no sun was still perfectly fine.