Possibilities for my F-150

[Grassland]

So it's not letting me edit my post here at work, so after looking it up I'm seeing that the 3.5 ecoboost comes with the 9.75 rear end. On a side note now that I can see your signautre. How do you like the RCI skids? I was looking at them, and go rhino raptor style steps. I don't know if I'd spend the extra money on the aluminum skids. Also to answer the question you asked. I'm not really thinking about a regear right now. That's why I'm only wanting to go up slightly in size with the tires. I mean I still have the front snow plow... air damn installed. Only mods I've done to my truck is disabling auto start stop, and getting the temperature in numbers for trans and coolant.

I love the RCI skid plates. Everything just bolts right up. I chose aluminium to keep weight down, and because I am not rock crawling. Already have a nice dent and gouge in the Transmission plate, so its already saved me a bunch of money. I also ran RCI skids on my Ranger in steel, and they held up well. I was also looking at the fake raptor steps, but currently am still without steps. Im short, so it makes for good quads getting in and out.
How easy/hard is using Forscan?
Does the front air dam come off as easily on the 15+ as it does on the 09-14? If so, toss that thing. Buddies 17 has it, we went backcountry camping last weekend, and I eventually had to lead the way to pack down the snow some more cause it was the lowest point. Snow was so deep the differentials were dragging too.
Now that I can also see your sig, as I am not on mobile this time, I think you have a good all around mild build planned out that should be a good mix of driveable, but perform better than stock. Seeing that you have the ten speed and EB, the tire you are looking at should be fine.

 

[PunchitChewie]

How easy/hard is using Forscan?

I see people say both it's hard, and it's easy. I feel if you are moderately computer literate it's not that bad. It helps that they have a whole document on the f150 forums with all the break downs on what you need to change for the feature you want. After getting a cable, I went with USB instead of farting with a Bluetooth one based on some reviews, you have to sign up on the forscan forum to get your "license" for the program. I can't remember, but I think every month you have to go back to the forum to renew the license. From what I've read, when I get home I just need to buy the switch for hill decent, and just have to hook up forscan to enable it since I didn't get the FX4 package. I've got those lovely fiber board scuff plates instead of factory skids under the truck. So fun to pull for oil changes. Thinking I need to invest in a fumoto oil valve. As for the front air damn, should just be a matter of taking out the screws holding it in. I think I've read it has a couple jesus nuts to remove.

 

[Doomstar]

I'm gonna talk about my truck a bit to maybe give you ideas to consider. I've included links where relevant.

I have a 2010 F150 FX4 SuperCab that I just put Fox 2.0 coilovers and rear shocks on. Leveled the truck. Also put on Nittos that are 275/60 r20 on the stock FX4 wheels, and calculate out to 33" tall and 10.8 wide. I also put on Icon UCAs. Haven't done any wheeling or offroading yet, but they've been great so far in the Wisconsin winter. My goal was to get a suspension that would be good for the 10% of time I plan to do offroad/overland but also be good on the road/snow and also not be all up in the sky like a bro dozer. Here's a good tool for figuring out all the tire sizes: https://tiresize.com/calculator/

You could get something that leveled the front like the Fox 2.0s or the Boss Halo Lifts but then also do an add-a-leaf in the back to get the factory rake back. In fact if you're gonna have a lot of weight in the back you may need the add a leaf just to keep it level, much less factory rake. Here's a good add a leaf kit from a good source: https://www.stage3motorsports.com/AAL1502-2015-F150-Auto-Spring-Rear-Add-a-Leaf-Kit.html

I also replaced my factory headlights and fog lights with LEDs and am currently scratching my head about how to do a dual battery set up in order to add more lights, compressor, fridge, etc. Genesis dual battery kits are made for Jeeps and Toyotas so far, but nothing for F150s yet: https://www.genesisoffroad.com/dualbatterykits-s/106.htm I have found a dual battery tray that they say will work for any F150, but I can't find any corroborating sources so I'm hesitant so far: https://www.americantrucks.com/smittybilt-dual-battery-tray-for-optima-batteries-9718.html

Before I decided on overlanding I'd already replaced my bumpers with Barricade steel bumpers. They're a little heavy. If I had to do it again I'd go for bumpers with a bull bar and more room for a winch and in-set lights for the back: https://www.americantrucks.com/barricade-extreme-hd-frt-bumper-fog-0914.html

I just ordered a Decked system and will install it sometime next week.

I think I've decided on an ARE MX topper with all the extras instead of a pop up, flip top, or RTT, though. I want to be able to stealth camp in the city or at rest stops without worrying about being secure or people knowing I'm sleeping in there. A good topper with solid doors instead of windows should do that. The only thing I'm wondering about is air flow/HVAC. For a backup sleeping situation I've also looked into the Notel sleeping system but am still on the fence about it because there haven't been many honest reviews about it yet. I like the idea of sleeping in the cab because it's better than a tent in that it's a hard shell, has AC readily available, is already lockable, and you can just roll over, start up the truck and leave if you need to. The Notel basically makes a flat surface inside your cab, complete with moonroof if you have one.

I also picked up some WeatherTech window liners that 100% block out light and keep others from seeing in (used to rest stop and Wal Mart sleep on a recent road trip). It's essentially a sunshade but for all your windows.

 

[PunchitChewie]

I'm gonna talk about my truck a bit to maybe give you ideas to consider.

Thanks for the reply. I'm not to worried about stealth, but the habitat can be had with solid panel instead of rear window. So I could sleep in the bed in a pinch. As far as electric. I was thinking of just making a battery box part of the build in the bed. If I go with AGM I don't have to worry as much about venting, and might splurge on a lithium battery if I can find a deal. Anyway that's the most that stuck out to me, will definitely revisit to adjust my long list I have of dream mods. Bumpers aren't high on my list right now, but once I get her on a scale to see what payload I have to work with. Then I will start drilling down my list.

 

[danneskjold]

I also replaced my factory headlights and fog lights with LEDs and am currently scratching my head about how to do a dual battery set up in order to add more lights, compressor, fridge, etc. Genesis dual battery kits are made for Jeeps and Toyotas so far, but nothing for F150s yet: https://www.genesisoffroad.com/dualbatterykits-s/106.htm I have found a dual battery tray that they say will work for any F150, but I can't find any corroborating sources so I'm hesitant so far: https://www.americantrucks.com/smittybilt-dual-battery-tray-for-optima-batteries-9718.html

At least for my 2018 3.3 there’s ZERO room under the hood for a spare battery - it was quite a shock coming from a Tacoma where I managed to squeeze 3x batteries and an air compressor under the hood and now I struggled to fit an sPOD.

 

[ITTOG]

I'm gonna talk about my truck a bit to maybe give you ideas to consider. I've included links where relevant.

I have a 2010 F150 FX4 SuperCab that I just put Fox 2.0 coilovers and rear shocks on. Leveled the truck. Also put on Nittos that are 275/60 r20 on the stock FX4 wheels, and calculate out to 33" tall and 10.8 wide. I also put on Icon UCAs. Haven't done any wheeling or offroading yet, but they've been great so far in the Wisconsin winter. My goal was to get a suspension that would be good for the 10% of time I plan to do offroad/overland but also be good on the road/snow and also not be all up in the sky like a bro dozer. Here's a good tool for figuring out all the tire sizes: https://tiresize.com/calculator/

With those tires, do you have any rubbing when you are turning hard? Did you do the larger tires before the level and Fox coilovers? if yes, any rubbing then? Thanks for all the great info.

 

[PunchitChewie]

With those tires, do you have any rubbing when you are turning hard?

From what I have read on F150 forums that tire size should be fine on stock suspension. They are similar in size to what I'm looking at, and everything I've read is they don't rub.

 

[D45]

I am running 275/65R20s on the stock 20s, no rubbing at all

I am running a 2" front level kit and a taller rear block

I definitely can clear 35s

I love my ARE cap, it's solid and fits/looks great

 

[Doomstar]

With those tires, do you have any rubbing when you are turning hard? Did you do the larger tires before the level and Fox coilovers? if yes, any rubbing then? Thanks for all the great info.

Did the tires before the lift; no rubbing at all anywhere even at full lock. The 2” level was just icing on the cake. I now have lots of articulation room for the wheels.

The only thing I don’t like is that the 20” wheel isnt as good for off-road as a 17 or 18” rim. I’m thinking of replacing all my wheels/tires with a new 17” wheel and tire size that ultimately makes my wheels/tires the same diameter but with more rubber between the rim and the road. Just gotta figure out how to sell the 9 year old FX4 OEM wheels with the almost brand new Nittos.

 

[Doomstar]

I am running 275/65R20s on the stock 20s, no rubbing at all

I am running a 2" front level kit and a taller rear block

I definitely can clear 35s

I love my ARE cap, it's solid and fits/looks great

That ARE cap is slick. How long did it take to get to you after ordering?

 

[Doomstar]

Speaking of air dams; I’m wondering if finding a longer/lower dam would help to improve my gas mileage that go worse after the 2” lift? They’re so easy to take off that I’d run the longer aftermarket air dam during the week then just pop it off when it’s time to go Weekenderlanding

 

[Doomstar]

While still waiting on my Decked system I ordered some LED replacement lights for my reverse lights. Looks like they a lot more useful than OEM, the install would be really easy and they don’t cost that much.

CREE reverse LED's

Our Premium Ford F150 LED CREE Reverse Lights are a perfect match for your F-150. We provide the light your 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 Ford F150 needs to stand out and shine brighter. Built by F150 owners for F150 owners.

www.f150leds.com

 

[D45]

That ARE cap is slick. How long did it take to get to you after ordering?

ARE caps are the best......and pricey

It was on the truck when I bought it used, 17000 miles on it when I found it

 

[Deleted member 9101]

Your 3.5 will not have a problem turning a set of 35's, it will just use more fuel to do so.

You can always get a tune and up the HP so you don't notice the larger tires (performance wise). I went with Brew City Boost and couldn't be happier.

 

[2Jeeps&PatriotX1]

I have a 2017 F150 w/ the 3.5. Been running 35s w/ 6” lift for a year now and 18k miles. Live in CO and has no problem getting up and going. You’ll be fine on 35s. I run 15.5mpg on city and 17 highway.

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