Post up your drawer/storage system

[Mass_Mopar]

I just finished putting together a simple platform for the back of my Jeep. Thanks to this thread and several others for the inspiration!

This is meant as a backup for our Roof Tent. There were a couple days with gusty winds and driving rains that we would've rather had been "indoors" last year.

The tent is still better - comfier, more private, more room, etc, but this should work well in a pinch. I designed it to be temporary and removable, so the goal was light weight, low complexity, and minimal investment. I also wanted to keep the fridge, so I built the platform around it at the height of the lid, so it turns into a portion of the platform at night.

Forming the frame out of cheap 2x3s

Decked in 1/2" Birch plywood

Decking completed, covered in 1/2" interlocking foam "gym floor" tiles

In "sleep mode" with the front passenger seat all the way forward, I fit with about 1" to spare. I'm 6'4". Luckily the wife is 5'1" so she's getting the shorter driver's side.

Sleep mode to driving mode takes about 1 minute.

 

[Montana Cruiser]

We just posted this thread looking for DECKED testers from the forum. Thought we'd post it here too to make sure it was seen by you all.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/157776-Looking-for-Forum-Members-to-Test-a-DECKED-Storage-System?p=2080317#post2080317
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Sent you a PM!

 

[TacoIII]

Finished my rear seat drawers.

 

[Sand1235]

Here are my storage slideouts. I wanted to be able to secure my cooler (eventually fridge/freezer) and Pelican tool box and still be able to access their contents without undoing any straps. I also wanted complete flexibility when I wasn't using the cooler and/or toolbox. Meaning a large smooth surface for setting larger items on. I used all factory seat mounting bolt holes to mount it. So I didn't drill any extra holes into the jeep.

 

[LiveWire64]

I recently built this box for a friends 2005 Jeep Rubicon. Box is built from 3/4" baltic Birch. Is dadoed,nailed and screwed together. The drawer box is pre-finished 1/2" Birch.
He didn't want any kind of lock on the drawer as he has a hardtop that never comes off. Just used a simple slide bolt. Simple fun project.

 

[yonah]

Here are my storage slideouts. I wanted to be able to secure my cooler (eventually fridge/freezer) and Pelican tool box and still be able to access their contents without undoing any straps. I also wanted complete flexibility when I wasn't using the cooler and/or toolbox. Meaning a large smooth surface for setting larger items on. I used all factory seat mounting bolt holes to mount it. So I didn't drill any extra holes into the jeep.

I recently built this box for a friends 2005 Jeep Rubicon. Box is built from 3/4" baltic Birch. Is dadoed,nailed and screwed together. The drawer box is pre-finished 1/2" Birch.
He didn't want any kind of lock on the drawer as he has a hardtop that never comes off. Just used a simple slide bolt. Simple fun project.


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Outstanding craftsmanship on both of these builds. Major kudos to you both!

 

[fireball]

x2 - box looks great!

Why the notch in the upper left corner? To clear something in the truck?

 

[LiveWire64]

Yes. The rear tailgate latch pin sticks out on the jam of the tailgate opening.

 

[Tiktaalik]

I really like this solution. Great job on this! I've got an Engel MT60 inbound so I'm planning to build something similar to yours. Any tips or advice are appreciated! What slides hardware did you order?

Here are my storage slideouts. I wanted to be able to secure my cooler (eventually fridge/freezer) and Pelican tool box and still be able to access their contents without undoing any straps. I also wanted complete flexibility when I wasn't using the cooler and/or toolbox. Meaning a large smooth surface for setting larger items on. I used all factory seat mounting bolt holes to mount it. So I didn't drill any extra holes into the jeep.

 

[Tiktaalik]

Shelf and Cargo Slides for Defender 90

I'm in the process of building a shelf for the rear of my Defender 90. Below the shelf I plan to build two cargo slides. One of which will hold my inbound Engel Fridge. The top shelf (pictured) is tall enough to clear the Engel + cargo slide underneath but low enough that items can be accessed from the sides through the gullwing doors. I had mounting brackets made that bolts into existing mounting hardware in the sides of the tub. The cargo slides will be of similar fashion to what Sand1235 has fabricated.

 

[Sand1235]

I really like this solution. Great job on this! I've got an Engel MT60 inbound so I'm planning to build something similar to yours. Any tips or advice are appreciated! What slides hardware did you order?

Thank you for the compliment.
I used KV lock in/lock out slides.

 

[Redman333]

I've contemplated building a drawer system in my 100 series but am thinking about using uhmw slides instead of the ball bearing slides. Anyone here know how much weight they can support and still slide smoothly.


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[yonah]

I've contemplated building a drawer system in my 100 series but am thinking about using uhmw slides instead of the ball bearing slides. Anyone here know how much weight they can support and still slide smoothly.

I'm not sure what your budget is, but this may be a viable turn-key option for your hundy:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/152089459259?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


He's in FL too, which makes him somewhat convenient to NC and, IMO, worth the trip for a drop-in, quality piece of gear like this. Sometimes we SE guys get lucky - it seems like all of the cool overland Gucci gear on ExPo is listed in CA, CO, or the SW...

 

[Redman333]

I'm not sure what your budget is, but this may be a viable turn-key option for your hundy:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/152089459259?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
View attachment 348106

He's in FL too, which makes him somewhat convenient to NC and, IMO, worth the trip for a drop-in, quality piece of gear like this. Sometimes we SE guys get lucky - it seems like all of the cool overland Gucci gear on ExPo is listed in CA, CO, or the SW...

Well eventually this will be in my budget but I need armour before drawers but would still like to have drawers. Plus I'd like to try my hand at building me a set because I honestly haven't seen anything that quite fits the bill for what I'm looking for. This is partly my reasoning for the slides versus ball bearings. Budget friendly material. I'm also not 100% sure I'll end up keeping the drawers.


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[Heifer Boy]

I've contemplated building a drawer system in my 100 series but am thinking about using uhmw slides instead of the ball bearing slides. Anyone here know how much weight they can support and still slide smoothly.

The technical answer is 'loads'!!! I've used these on two builds now and they work well, are cheap, indestructible and virtually eliminate wasted storage space. My second build (Camper Box V2.0) worked better because I finished the bottom of the camper box with few coats of epoxy resin and this made a nice slippery plastic-type coating for the UHMWPE strips to slide on. No problems when fully loaded either. They slide smoothly but not too freely if you know what I mean so the drawers mostly stayed put when you let go of them which is a big benefit if your aren't parked on the flat. If they roll too easy you have to be able to lock the drawers in and out every time you use them or they can slam open or shut when you let go. Keep the dust and grit off the bottom surface and it's good to go. I also sprayed the bottom surface with a dry silicone spray every so often and that help with a fully laden drawer weight. I'm a fan.

The other option I have seen but not used is SlickStrips http://www.eplastics.com/slick_strips or UHMW Tape http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/UHMW-Tape?N=5472110&rt=c3 . Two strips of this stuff back to back and your drawers will be sliding as smoothly as a really smooth thing!!

HB