Power in the bed

frumpy

Explorer
I just picked up a receiver winch plate for my old winch I had mounted on my YJ. I am thinking it will usually live on the back when installed (also since I don't have a front receiver yet). The only issue I am having is how to have power readily accessible in the bed, either a second battery or just wires, and how to set it up.

I am thinking a second battery thats just straight bridged with an isolator switch would be the best bet. Only problem is how to run the wires, the battery would probably get mounted in my toolbox in the back or if I can find a battery thats small enough in an ammo box.
 

Jeep

Supporting Sponsor: Overland Explorer Expedition V
Don't use a diode style isolator, use a solenoid sytle instead like a Standard Ignition SS584, run your trigger wire for the soilenoid from a source that has power when the ignition swith is in the run position, I run mine through a to 3 position toggle switch so I can connect or isolate the batteries for any condition I might encounter. Run your cables carefully, clamped to the frame, and I always sheathe the positive cable for a little more protection.
Cheers.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Most constant duty solenoids are only good for something under 100 amps. So they can be used for charging and low current loads, but not for something like paralleling the batteries for extended winching.
This one is good for up to 85 amps:
67015_tab.jpg

http://www.delcity.net/store/SPST-12V-85A-Grounded-Continuous-Solenoid/p_790161.a_1http://www.delcity.net/store/SPST-12V-85A-Grounded-Continuous-Solenoid/p_790161.a_1

A simpler unit to wire solely for charging are the VSR/ACR's ("Voltage Sensing Relay"/"Automatic Charge Relay"). The name depends on the mfg. These just go in the charge wire to the second battery and usually have a reference ground. The way that they operate is to allow the alternator to bring the starting battery to full charge before connecting the aux battery to the alternator, which I prefer to the solenoid's constant connection regardless of charge state. This unit is good for 125 amps:
74990_big.jpg

http://www.delcity.net/store/Voltage-Sensing-Relay-!-Single-Sense/p_793852.a_1

Combine either with a marine battery bank switch for paralleled battery winching or jump-starting/self jump-starting needs.
21445_f.jpg


Battery Switch Search: http://www.westmarine.com/

Either a constant duty solenoid or a ACR/VSR can be connected across the maring switch's terminals, simplifying the wiring.

The winch to vehicle connection is commonly done with electric forklift charging plugs, known as "Anderson Powerpoles". A wide range of vendors sell these, but the industrial vendors like Grainger & McMaster-Carr have carried them for years and are my own preferred vendors. These can also be used to plug in jumper cables if you're so inclined.
XL-3BY26.JPG

Grainger Search: Anderson Powerpoles
 

eugene

Explorer
There is nothing wrong with a diode style isolator, the nice thing about them is they isolate noise on the second battery from the first where the siwtches and soloniods transfer that back.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
There is nothing wrong with them, but you need to offset the voltage regulator for the voltage drop across them or the batteries will never get fully charged. I have direct experience with them doing this because I was not aware of the issue and it ultimately cost me two batteries. With an internally regulated alternator I'm not sure how that adjustment can be done. And then if you happen to need a replacement somewhere and aren't familiar with how to make that modification you're kind of stuck.

To me the VSR/ACR is a better, more intelligent answer to the same problem. They are nothing more than a constant duty solenoid with a bit of electronics logic that monitors starting battery voltage and switches on and off according that battery's state of charge.
 

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