Power plant change...
- Thread starter stevenmd
- Start date
oonimog
Adventurer
Isn't that only the case for vehicles that are new enough to require smog? Since his truck is already smog exempt due to it age, does it really matter?
Red Coat
New member
An oldie but a goodie. Built to go in my 109. Not nearly as cheap to do as a 350 but everyone has one of those.
Dammit the image host won't resize this pig. Sorry for the huge picture.
Greenmeanie - you don't say what this engine is? Also what HP/performance do you expect out of the engine in the 109?
Paul
greenmeanie
Adventurer
Red Coat,
It's an old Chevy 292 straight 6 with some nice bits on it. I bumped the compression up to 9:1 added decent water heated manifolds, cam and a lump port head to correct the breathing issues these old 6 pots suffer from. I've also added HEI and I am building a TBI for fueling. THe TBI and dizzy will be run from a Megasquirt.
From the internet dyno I should expect somewhere around 225hp and just shy of 300lbsft of torque at 2200 rpm.
Once done it will be dressed with the 140A alternator shown, the GM spam can PS pump and a Sanden 7H15 aircon compressor.
It's going in my NADA 109 mated up to an NP435 and high ration series transfer case. Performance should be fun. Fuel efficiency should be umm, interesting at best.
It's an old Chevy 292 straight 6 with some nice bits on it. I bumped the compression up to 9:1 added decent water heated manifolds, cam and a lump port head to correct the breathing issues these old 6 pots suffer from. I've also added HEI and I am building a TBI for fueling. THe TBI and dizzy will be run from a Megasquirt.
From the internet dyno I should expect somewhere around 225hp and just shy of 300lbsft of torque at 2200 rpm.
Once done it will be dressed with the 140A alternator shown, the GM spam can PS pump and a Sanden 7H15 aircon compressor.
It's going in my NADA 109 mated up to an NP435 and high ration series transfer case. Performance should be fun. Fuel efficiency should be umm, interesting at best.
James86004
Expedition Leader
I'll bet if you can keep off the loud pedal, it won't be too bad. The Rover engines have to work so hard to get and keep going. This thing outta idle down the freeway.
TeriAnn
Explorer
I've recently moved to a place where the only internet connection faster than 1200KB is satellite. I'm signed up for it but until it's set up I go to the local Mall food garden for an internet connection. Mostly I've ignored this forum during this time to get other things done whilst online.
Don't forget the engine that burns brighter burns for a shorter time. 200tdi cylinder heads are NLA. Some folks are installing a 200tdi without the turbo (200di) for vastly increased service life. The power is very close to that of a 2.5L petrol.
Since you want to install a slush box why not go with the 300tdi? More parts are available for that engine and it mates to the LR coiler slush boxes found in US wrecking yards. Or better yet the newish IH 3.3tdi?
Putting a slush box into a Series rig will take some effort so most any powerplant that fits shouldn't add a whole lot more work to the project.
If you intend to pay Timm to do the installation, go with the diesel conversion he is currently in favour of. It's been my experience that he does better work on a conversion he is currently in favour about. He has a lot of real life experience so anything he recommends will probably work for you.
Just remember an engine that was offered for sale in California on a vehicle that does not require periodic emissions is the engine you want. Assuming you want to have the vehicle legally registered, don't want to go through emissions testing and are open with your insurance company so they don't have an excuse for not paying if worse comes to worse.
Good luck
greenmeanie
Adventurer
I'm hoping, and it may be a reach, to be in the very high teens or make that magic 20mpg so I can't say great fuel economy was high in the order of things that made me use this engine.
My current gearing plan gives me 65mph at 2400rpm which is right where you need to be for any economy as it is about 200rpm over peak torque. The NP435, HRTC and 3.54 diffs give a final ration of approx 3.08 which is one of the ratios offered by GM with this engine. Unfortunately this uses Rover 3.54 diffs which will have to either be upgraded or replaced with something stouter. Having seen what the stock 292 has done to some of the drive splines on this truck replacement is my favoured route right now. I plan on building her and running her for a couple of months as is before deciding on which direction to spend my money on axle upgrades to achieve the final gearing I desire.
James86004
Expedition Leader
There was a D110 Salisbury with the 3.54 ratio posted for sale on the mendo list a couple of days ago. I can forward you the contact info if you need it.
greenmeanie
Adventurer
James,
I'd be interested to see the details as it increases my alternatives.
Right now I've finished the chassis, overhauled the existing axles, added the PS box and modified the steering cloumn, I've just about finished the engine, I'm about to rebuild the transfer case once a new transfer case mainshaft arrives and the gearbox adapter is coming soon. I've got the radiator panel modified and repaired bulkhead back from the galvanizer and the T-posts are on their way from Wyoming after which they'll be taking their turn in the tank.
As you can see I've a wee way to go before doing my final axle set up but a good deal is a good deal if the price is right.
I suppose to keep it on topic I should point out that figuring out the gearing to match your engine is a large part of getting an engine swap right. Choosing the right axle set up can be almost as complex and sometimes more expensive than choosing the engine.
I'd be interested to see the details as it increases my alternatives.
Right now I've finished the chassis, overhauled the existing axles, added the PS box and modified the steering cloumn, I've just about finished the engine, I'm about to rebuild the transfer case once a new transfer case mainshaft arrives and the gearbox adapter is coming soon. I've got the radiator panel modified and repaired bulkhead back from the galvanizer and the T-posts are on their way from Wyoming after which they'll be taking their turn in the tank.
As you can see I've a wee way to go before doing my final axle set up but a good deal is a good deal if the price is right.
I suppose to keep it on topic I should point out that figuring out the gearing to match your engine is a large part of getting an engine swap right. Choosing the right axle set up can be almost as complex and sometimes more expensive than choosing the engine.