Powering vehicle refigerators
- Thread starter ncflyer
- Start date
There are some threads on this in the equipment fourum area that might help.
The best way is "direct" to an isolatable (deep cycle) second battery with heavy gauge wire, #10 or better and with an in line fuse rated per refigerator manufacturer specs (and they ussually include them with their fridges.)
On the other hand, I have run mine off an "always on," non ignition switched cigarette lighter with complete success, though with a cheap 12v extension cord/cut off switch that kills fridge power at 11v. I'm currently running mine that way and its been more than a year of continuous use with no issues, with a 16qt Engel fridge and one grp 31 Blue Top. I have been getting about 2 1/2 days when temps are high 80's and 90's before the switch kills the fridge, that with a four door JK with a black top. I don't recall the fridge being shut down when temps are more moderate, but I try to run the Jeep every so often (and its hard not to since it so much fun to drive.) I've run a 60qt Engel Combi the same way, but not for extended periods.
A test will be coming up when we head to Easter Jeep Safari since we'll try running my 16qt Engel and my 35qt Engel both through one spilt plug, and an extension cord/cut off switch each.
BTW, you pretty much need a deep cycle battery to run a fridge for more than just when you're driving. I've run one on a starting battery, but it's a mtter of getting it cold when you're driving and then shutting it down when you're stopped. No substantial run time shut down.
Two batteries is far better than one, but I have no room in the engine compartment and can't find room underneath either. I am trying to avoid sacrificing interior space but may have to to run two fridges.
JPK
The best way is "direct" to an isolatable (deep cycle) second battery with heavy gauge wire, #10 or better and with an in line fuse rated per refigerator manufacturer specs (and they ussually include them with their fridges.)
On the other hand, I have run mine off an "always on," non ignition switched cigarette lighter with complete success, though with a cheap 12v extension cord/cut off switch that kills fridge power at 11v. I'm currently running mine that way and its been more than a year of continuous use with no issues, with a 16qt Engel fridge and one grp 31 Blue Top. I have been getting about 2 1/2 days when temps are high 80's and 90's before the switch kills the fridge, that with a four door JK with a black top. I don't recall the fridge being shut down when temps are more moderate, but I try to run the Jeep every so often (and its hard not to since it so much fun to drive.) I've run a 60qt Engel Combi the same way, but not for extended periods.
A test will be coming up when we head to Easter Jeep Safari since we'll try running my 16qt Engel and my 35qt Engel both through one spilt plug, and an extension cord/cut off switch each.
BTW, you pretty much need a deep cycle battery to run a fridge for more than just when you're driving. I've run one on a starting battery, but it's a mtter of getting it cold when you're driving and then shutting it down when you're stopped. No substantial run time shut down.
Two batteries is far better than one, but I have no room in the engine compartment and can't find room underneath either. I am trying to avoid sacrificing interior space but may have to to run two fridges.
JPK
Last edited:
Jackson"N"jeeper
New member
Wire size specifications by manufacturer are minimum please if usung an ARB or Engle
Do yourself justice and upsize wire. 12 ga sat the minimum 10 ga is grea
t. They hav a tendency to operate more efficently.
Do yourself justice and upsize wire. 12 ga sat the minimum 10 ga is grea
t. They hav a tendency to operate more efficently.
I ran my 25l Waeco off a direct connection to the battery. Longest time I left the JK off was 36 hrs (fridge mode, mild temps - 22/30c). On the 2700km trip home, while running it in freezer mode (-15c), I left it off for maybe 4-5 hrs max (never stopped for longer than that). This was off my stock 4 yr old battery.
I had planned on doing the same thing when I wire power for the fridge this spring/summer.
I had planned on doing the same thing when I wire power for the fridge this spring/summer.
I was looking at the Engel 35 users' manual today, they spec 10ga wire.
Septu, diesel JK or gas? (Really, how much battery?) With my small Engel I didn't get nearly that long with the oem battery.
The Danfoss is more efficient than the swing arm compressor of the Engel, but I would have guessed the difference is that great.
JPK
Gas JK. Not sure on the battery (I assumed it was stock - I hadn't changed it in the 2 yrs I had it), but I didn't have much faith in it. Had a few issues with it starting if I didn't plug it in at night if it would drop past -25c (which a good battery can easily handle). When I let it sit 36 hrs, it was while I was at my parents place in Vancouver. If it drained the battery I could easily and quickly get a boost. I plan on doing the same once I get it wired up for the 2012.
I've got a 50qt ARB connected via an always-on connection to a 2nd battery in my XJ. I think it's 10 gauge wire, I don't recall for sure. The 2nd battery is a small Optima that is connected to the primary battery via an isolator that connects the circuit when the key is in the On (running) position. Before I installed this setup I ran the fridge direct off the starting battery and ran that battery dead a few times because I wasn't driving the Jeep enough to replenish the charge. My current setup isolates the primary so the fridge can run the 2nd battery dry and no harm done.
Have you looked at options for a second battery in the cargo area or maybe under the rear seat? I keep looking at the National Luna Power Pack, but I loathe giving up the space.
With one fridge, the extension cord/cut off switch and the one Optima grp 31 Blue Top deep cycle battery there have been no issues in about 15 months of continuous use and no matter how long I leave the Jeep it fires right up.
Maybe start with the oem battery and the switch until you figure out which way to go? An 11v cut off will substantially shorten the life of a starting battery if relied on too often.
Here's a link to the extension cord/cut off switch: http://www.roadtrucker.com/koolatron/koolatron-12-volt-cooler-accessories.htm
There are enough reports on Optima trouble out there that the Odyssey, aka Sears Platinum, is probably a better choice. I have had no issues with mine, but when I had a ground problem with my Hemi AEV told me 50/50 it was the Optima, and that they'd had enough trouble with the that they stopped installing them.
But I believe the Platinum you're looking at is an automotive starting battery, and you ought to be looking at the marine deep cycle batteries. Looking at the Die Hards, the Grp 31 appear to have the "reversed" positive and negative terminals. The Grp 31 is supposed to fit in my engine compartment, it's a little longer than the Optima and I haven't tried it but hope it will be my next battery whenever that day comes. If fits in my engine compartment - and it's supposed to - there is some hope it'll fit in yours. The Hemi takes up a lot of room.
And then there is this military grade Grp 35 Odyssey, $60 more expensive than the Die Hard automotive Grp 35, but perfect: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM5591874602P?mv=rr
Here's another, better, write on the Grp 35 military grade Odyssey, but a lot more expensive here: http://www.batterymart.com/p-ody-35-pc1400.html
Hmm, wondering if it would be possible to stuff two of those military grade Odyssey's in my Jeep side by side...
BTW, the AGM batteries are safe in a cargo area. But I agree that cargo in a cargo area is better.
JPK
But I believe the Platinum you're looking at is an automotive starting battery, and you ought to be looking at the marine deep cycle batteries. Looking at the Die Hards, the Grp 31 appear to have the "reversed" positive and negative terminals. The Grp 31 is supposed to fit in my engine compartment, it's a little longer than the Optima and I haven't tried it but hope it will be my next battery whenever that day comes. If fits in my engine compartment - and it's supposed to - there is some hope it'll fit in yours. The Hemi takes up a lot of room.
And then there is this military grade Grp 35 Odyssey, $60 more expensive than the Die Hard automotive Grp 35, but perfect: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM5591874602P?mv=rr
Here's another, better, write on the Grp 35 military grade Odyssey, but a lot more expensive here: http://www.batterymart.com/p-ody-35-pc1400.html
Hmm, wondering if it would be possible to stuff two of those military grade Odyssey's in my Jeep side by side...
BTW, the AGM batteries are safe in a cargo area. But I agree that cargo in a cargo area is better.
JPK
DieHard Platinum Marine Battery - Group Size 31M
Item Weight (lbs.): 75.0 lbs
JPK - Thanks for the other recommendations. No big hurry but at some point. I did look at the marine battery but @ 75lbs I don't think so. The #s I got from the Sears site. I mention the 35 as it's the only one with the correct terminal set-up and will fit with a little mount adjustment.
Item Weight (lbs.): 75.0 lbs
JPK - Thanks for the other recommendations. No big hurry but at some point. I did look at the marine battery but @ 75lbs I don't think so. The #s I got from the Sears site. I mention the 35 as it's the only one with the correct terminal set-up and will fit with a little mount adjustment.
Yea, but the Sears 35 is an automotve battery and will not last with frequent discharges to 11v, which a deep cycle is designed for. Take a look at that Odyssey 35, the terminals you want and deep cycle, and it is built to military standars to boot.