Powertrax No-Slip Traction System?

[FJOE]

I have a 95 T100 that is both a daily driver, and my weekend toy. I don't "wheel" hard, but there are a lot of rocks and off-camber problems out in the wadi's here. I was wondering if anyone has run the Powertrax system instead of an air locker, or the LockRight? I don't want the cost or the added systems associated with the air locker, and because it's a daily driver, I don't want the annoying clicking in turns. I have read a couple reviews online, but was wondering if anyone here is running one.

 

[tgreening]

I ran Powertrax No-Slip front/rear in a Jeep CJ I have. The one in the rear held up great but the one up front developed an issue where it didn't want to lock up any more. I've yet to diagnose the problem because the Jeep is tore town for a refresh and I haven't got to axles yet. I can't really say anything because I'm running them behind 37" tires and the front is a stock D30 which doesn't have the biggest carrier in the world. I believe the mfgr says this combo is good for no more than a 33" tire, and I didn't really baby it too much.

The rear doesn't click but every once in awhile it will unlock with a bang that is unannounced and unnerving, but harmless. You run a mechanical locker on the street, it's going to happen.

 

[JBL13]

I've had a No-Slip in the rear of my '02 Tacoma since January 2004 (about the past 45K miles). It doesn't ratchet, but does bang once in awhile.

Because it introduces a bit of play in the driveline, it kind of messes with the synchros in the manual five-speed, resulting in grinding if I try to shift quickly. So I usually shift slowly. The vehicle is not a daily driver; it's a weekend toy, and the locker works fine off the pavement.

 

[NitroExpress]

I've got a Powertrax in an '82 Jeep Cj with an AMC 20 Rear axle. I find that it does Pop and make a noise that sounds bad, but is not causing any harm. I've had it in the Jeep for for over a decade and have had no problems with it. It is not a daily driver and probably doesn't have a ton of actual miles (10k +/-?). It has definitely worked well as an off road locker. For a daily driver, I don't see why it would be an issue as long as the occasional popping is not a problem.
It was super easy to install and I don't think the purchase price was excessive, so it's an economical option.

 

[1stDeuce]

I believe the No Slip is the same as the LockRight. I'd run one with an auto, but not a manual. Well, actually I did run one with a manual, and I didn't care for it. On a dedicated wheeling rig, it would be tolerable, but for road use, there was a lot of clunking and banging, especially after turns when shifting. I had an M1008 with a detroit locker (basically same operation) and an auto and it was much more tolerable. It's perhaps important to know that this style of locker will always drive off the inside tire when turning. The only way to get power to the outside wheel is to slip the inside, so if you're accelerating out of a turn, there's usually some tire chirping...

I know it's not a locker, but for everyday use, a Tru-Trac is hard to beat. They don't wear out, bias higher than most LSD's, and you won't know it's there under normal driving. If you drive the truck empty a lot, I'd put one in the front first, as that's the heavy end. If you add a little brake pedal, it'll lock up pretty well.
Hmm. Not sure one is available for the T100... ??

Good luck!!

 

[Mundo4x4Casa]

I'm with 1stduece. Eaton Detroit True Trac is the ticket, if they make it for your application. It's an all gear (no clutches to wear out) Torque biasing limited slip that is very transparent until you need it and then it sends the most drive to the wheel on that axle that has the MOST traction, not the LEAST like L.S.'s do. Its the simplest design with the least amount of breakable parts. I've had every locker and limited slip made, except the OX Locker and the Gov-Lok and find full, automatic lockers are a pain on the back of an empty pickup, especially on ice. One problem is torque steer. When accelerating into a curve, you get what's called over steer: the tendency to keep going straight and resist the turn. If you let off the throttle suddenly, you get the opposite reaction which is called under steer: the tendency to cut sharper than you want into the curve. In extreme cases, this woe can be a handful and is not for the faint of heart. True lockers are hard on your axles, T. Case, and U-joints. For occasional hard core off roaders, it's not worth it when you take into account the drivability issues. I recently replaced my rear 35 spline, Dana 80 Power Lok with another True Trac. It is so transparent on the highway, winding or not. With True Tracs on both ends, I've been in several feet of snow and all four just keep churning away without letup. In deep sand, the same thing: all four turning the same speed. Truly amazing.
For absolute, solid, straight across locking diffs, whether axle twisting or raising a wheel off the ground, I still like ARB's. They are not without their foibles. If it's real dusty, it can clog your compressor filter and wreak havoc on your toggle switches. I've had hoses dragged off by passing shrubs.
Bottom line is: how much really hard core stuff do you do? If a LOT of axle twisting:

If a lot of stuff like this: (my old CJ-8 in Helldorado Canyon, Moab; front axle entirely off the ground/rrear tire against a rock and lrear tire climbing over a big rock) ARB's do well.

jefe

 

[KLF]

. . . you get what's called over steer: the tendency to keep going straight and resist the turn. If you let off the throttle suddenly, you get the opposite reaction which is called under steer: the tendency to cut sharper than you want into the curve.

You have the concepts of "oversteer" and "understeer" reversed.

 

[Grassland]

I also do not understand what the extra components of the No Slip are compared to the Lock Right. I had a powertrax Lock Right in my Ford Ranger, and when it was really cold, it would just slip entirely. Worked great when -10C or warmer. I will have to assume it was improper installation or something. I didn't install myself.
Thats whats been holding me back from a No Slip or another Lock Right.

 

[NitroExpress]

If you don't want the "annoying clicking in turns", you probably don't want the Powertrax. While it's not a clicking, the hard mechanical 'pop' will likely be bothersome to you. I installed one in my Jeep CJ-8 oem AMC 20 diff. while It functioned properly and never gave any trouble for 10 years, the popping is loud and sounds like something has let loose. It was inexpensive and so easy to install that even I was able to complete the task without a problem. I have since changed axles to Dana 44's with ARB air lockers.
I have an Eaton Detroit Tru-Trac in the rear of my Chevy 2500HD. It is far more seamless than the Powertrax, but does seem to stop just short of the capability of a fully locked diff.