Prepping a camel trophy defender 110 for around the world...

diesel_jim

New member
I think its a mantec one..I bought it off a member...it has the plastic dampening slide tube to stop rattling...really nice bit of kit..


I've got one of these on my 110.. great bit of kit....

But.... the plastic dampening slide tube thing has got lots of muck in it over the last couple of years, so whenever you open/close the door you get a horrible screech noise... must strip and clean it out soon. it sounds horrid!
 

The Rover Shop

Explorer
I was wondering how it would fare after operations for a while...mine seems to be quiet at the moment but I am sure the sahara sands may play havoc with it...a small price to pay for the memories...:smiley_drive:
 

The Rover Shop

Explorer
Finally got my parts in for my Husky Superwinch $100 craigslist find rebuild..Inside was in pretty good shape, just replaced some gaskets clean out some built up muck and cleaned up the motor internals, replaced the solenoids with new heavy duty ones..ordered new covers and repainted it to the nearest rattle can colour I could find..
BEFORE

camel-021-L.jpg

camel-022-L.jpg

DURING..
latest-camel-101-L.jpg

latest-camel-102-L.jpg

latest-camel-104-L.jpg

latest-camel-105-L.jpg

AFTER...
latest-camel-141-L.jpg

latest-camel-140-L.jpg
This is definitely one of the areas where common sense to keep the brand new Warn thrmolectric 9.5 state of the art winch I already installed didn't win out over the "keep the camel as original as possible" idea..LOL...
 

maxingout

Adventurer
Your rear door table and shelf look great. It will be interesting to get a report on how much noise the aluminum makes when driving on corrugations.

Defenders make lots of noise on corrugations. It always sounded like things were coming apart when doing lots of corrugations. Whenever I do a modification, I always think about what kind of sounds the modification will make.
 

The Rover Shop

Explorer
I actually had already made the rear door metal and decided to remake it in thicker material just for that reason...will be installing dynamat on all surfaces where possible to try and cut down on the drumming noises...the rear table when put in the closed position is under tension so as to try to avoid rattling too much..
 

Nonimouse

Cynical old bastard
Nice husky. Very nice indeed - just don't forget to fit the haswe and back stay the right way round before you fit it! I may have a spare proper backstay around here somewhere - if I have I'll post it over if you want
 

The Rover Shop

Explorer
Good eyes..LOL...Yeah, I just slapped those on there to stop it from all coming apart..I am missing one of the back stays for some reason but as it turns out I have exactly the same size metal strip sitting here,,,just drill 2 holes and voila.. thanks for the offer though..if you happen to have the decals around though that would be great..:drool:
 

The Rover Shop

Explorer
That would be great...I don't have the plate..when I bought it in the before pics it had a large mounting plate that i assume was the plate to adapt to whatever it was on before..hence the smaller bracket strip on the back...is that plate for the bottom or the rear of the winch...I know the mantec bumper on my CT is the correct one for the superwinch pattern so i am once again assuming that the duties of securing the towers together at the base is taken care of by that.. I did find in the vehicle an original "electric winch camel trophy specification fitting instructions for land rover 110 " booklet.. it shows that thin metal strip as being a "transit strip" and I see a plate at the rear of it called a rear support..having part number 7816-a3... the decals would be freaking awesome.. I have the large superwinch decals to go on the side of the truck I believe.. I have had a bit of trouble finding parts over here through superwinch.. when I tell them I have the husky superwinch the most response i have gotten is.."wow' thats a really great winch but we don't have much to do with them because they were made in england..."..LOL.. DO you happen to know the specs of the camel trophy ones ..were they 8500 or 10000 and were they any different from the regular ones...I saw a thread a while ago by someone putting a different "bowmotor" on one to increase pull and speed..???..was the difference bewteen 8500 and 10,000 just the motor or was the gearing different also... Its a bit hard to find internal or spec info on these, so when I finnally find someone who knows these I have a bunch of questions...that'll teach ya..LOL...
 

Nonimouse

Cynical old bastard
The plate fits across the back using the four holes you have located the hawse in. It's an integral part of the winch - like the two tie rods on most low lines http://www.firstfour.co.uk/item/811533/superwinch-husky-8 like in this picture - where your transport bar is at the front... The bracing bracket stops the chassis bowing at the top under load. Scarily most Huskys you see have nothing fitted! On CT Land Rover special vehicle fitted a plate that did the same but also protected the radiator from debris dragged in by the winch rope http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LR.images/winch lite.JPEG this varied though http://www.cameltrophyvehicles.com/images/h652jrw/h652jrw_050.jpg

Look at the opposite end of the winch form the motor, there will be a number stamped in ot he end casing (usually hidden by the solenoid can mount) if it says SW8 (often misread as an EW8) then it's the Husky 8 (stall of 13k lbs); if it says SW10 it's not an original CT spec but it's a Husky 10 (stallof 15k lbs). The only difference is the gearing 229:1 for a Husky 8; 294: 1 for the 10. So the 8 is a bit quicker; the 10 is rare in the UK

There is a great thread on here about tuning a Husky but a lot of the pictures are missing - I've PM the poster responsible and he was going to try to get me some of the detail shots of where he's fitted grease nipples

I have a Bowmotor 1 on mine. However as I've only just re-built it and have yet to fit the mount, I'm not sure just how much better it will be. For me, fitting a Bow1 is actually cheaper than buying a replacement motor form Superwinch (and I have a trade account with them!). The Bow 1 and 2 are someof the very few winches that have their HP measure accurately (and their RPM) most winch motors are tested on a calc using 18volt input so that gives an input HP figure which is as accurate as using fairy dust. The OE motors are massively strong but IIRC are rated to 2800rpm, whereas a Bow 1 is 4000rpm (no load). If you want it I have a spare OE motor here that is mint - take it as a gift if you drop by. Let me know what parts you can't get - few bits break to be honest....

Does your Mantec bumper have six mounting points - ie the four normal bumper bolts and then two bolts through the where the Jate rings would go? I have an OE Superwinch bumper and it only has 4 mounting bolts - I'm tempted to add two more but a Structural Engineer friend reckons the sheer strength of the four bolt sis enough....

I service, fit and fix winches as part of my living, I've only ever worked on about 8 or 9 Huskys in 20 odd years. I've wanted one of my own for the best part of 25 years. So when I was given one and it's bumper I was like a dog with two tails. The re-build was such a pleasure compared to modern recreational winches. Mind you I have a couple of these http://clean-wire.net/gallery/php/image_service.php?photo_id=328&type=mid and one of these http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5168/5339422923_3ae116b8c3.jpg to work on this weekend!
 

cgalpin

Observer
Nonimouse, thanks for the info. I have an SW8 I have yet to install and mine just has the single holed bar on the back. I can fab up a four hole replacement if this is important, but it makes me wonder why mine only has the two holes. Mine has never been used but I think was branded as something else but has no decals either, so if you have a source for decals, please let me know as well!

thanks,
charles
 

Nonimouse

Cynical old bastard
Those single holed bars are to stop the ends coming away for the drum. When a Husky is delivered it has a cast iron hawse or a roller fairlead attached at the front and a 'transit bar' on the back. The Bracing Bracket is only used when the winch is not fitted to the recovery truck style universal mount - this has a back plate in it's design. When this is used often the Hawse acts as bracer bar at the front...

Did you know that Huskys are built to order? They are completely hand assembled in Tavistock. If you ring up/email the company with your number - the 4 or 5 numbers after the SW8 - they will tell you when it was made and to what spec.

I've e-mailed Superwinch reference the decals
 

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