Problem with EC wheel (mounting and discoloring)

Mock Tender

Adventurer
Greetings from Gander, Newfoundland. Came here to replace our flat with a new ST/Maxx. Glad I had all the tools that I needed to change tires- 33mm lugs and not using a hydraulic wrench aren't part of the game up here. Anyway- very nice guys at OK Tire and they had no problem using my tools and allowing me to kibitz.

Got the new tire put on (spun balanced) and rotated the other tires (we are at 10,000 miles since April 8th). Paid my big chunk of change for the new tire made a right out of the parking lot and could barely hang on to the steering wheel. Braking was even worse. I drove to the end of the block- but the steering wheel shaking and the surging brakes were not getting better.

Went back to OK Tire and looked at the tire and wheels. The only thing that looked amiss was that the original weights were disheveled and looked to be scraped half off. Now I was there for the entire time that Brad at OK Tire was working with the wheels and he didn't do anything that would have caused that. The first guess was that the intro of the new tire was round and that the opposite side tire was out of round. But, opposite of the brand new tire was the the new spare that I had put on less than 500 miles earlier when I got a flat. Well, after crawling around under the truck for awhile what was decided, and we will find out tomorrow, is that if you mount the balance weights where they are normally mounted, they interfere with the seating of the front wheel against the drum- they not only wear away parts of the weights, they also scratch the wheel. They do not allow the wheel to perfectly mount up against the drum brakes and voila'.

When we originally had the tires mounted on the wheel, they put the balancing weights in the same area as OK Tires- the standard placement. I remembered there being a little pulsing in the brakes and problems with alignment. The little alignment that is allowed on Fuso's is toeing and the pulsing brakes really went mostly away. But this is a real problem and will likely cost me redoing the brakes very soon. The rear wheels were not a problem because of the room- the fronts need to be weight balanced toward the outside edge.

The other issue is when you rotate the aluminum to steel contact leaves severe discoloring that dill need some future research to find out how to remove.

The pictures show the discoloration and the worn away weights. We will not have access to internet for a while- so when I can, I will let you know how our solution works.

By the way- I still like the wheels and 25lb weight make it easy to maneuver.

Mark

Front now rear wheel.jpgWas Front wheel Weights wearing.jpgWas rear wheel.jpg
 

Michelle@EarthCruiser

Supporting Sponsor
Sometimes it takes awhile to educate tire guys about proper weight placement particularly on these trucks.

Toothpaste, kerosene or a scotch brite pad will remove the brake drum rust --
 

mog

Kodiak Buckaroo
You are right, very close for the weights on aluminum wheels.
With steel the old-style clip on weights have plenty of room.
I went with flush valve cores, so I did not have to worry about clearance when flipping the wheels.
I think FLITZ is the best polish/protector for aluminum. Used it for years on corporate jets, beautiful polish and great protection.
Very pricy in the little tubes, but not too bad in the 2 pound cans that will last forever.

fuso-weight.jpg

fuso-valve.jpg
 

Raker

Observer
I gave away wheel weights for this reason and only use Balance Beads (Internal) The old ones are stainless, the new ones are plastic. No issues after 1 year.
 

waveslider

Outdoorsman
pugslyy, DO you remember what brand beads you are running. We tried them on our SMB with 36" tires on them and it was a disaster. I thought the wheel was going to bounce off the axle. I am going to be in a position to try them again and I'd like to but I'm jaded now.

We are evaluating the various tire/wheel choices for single wheeled fusos and it seems like beads would be a great idea .....if they work. And it sounds like the OP is in a place where he could try it also.

Thoughts.
 

Aussie Iron

Explorer
It is the amount that you put in and not the brand that makes the difference. Recommendation is 1oz per 10lbs of tyre or part there of (72lb tyre gets 8ozs). But and there is always a but if your rim is a long way out of balance you may need more and if it's warped then nothing is going to balance it. I use http://www.callieskustoms.com/balancing-beads.html which are stainless and reusable.

Dan.

 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person

I have always wanted to test the viability of balance beads, as I definitely see the theoretical benefits of using them.
The main concern I have, especially with stainless beads, is that they will effectively sand blast the inside of my rims. If I still had steel rims this would be of less concern, but now I have alloys, which are obviously softer and more prone to damage.
Is anyone using balance beads in alloy rims?
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Getting back to the original issue of the alloy rims being discolored by the steel brake drums...
One solution to this issue is to use a thin aluminium shim between the rim and the brake drum.

The image below is one I made for my spare wheel carrier. Obviously, you would need 6 holes, not 3 as I have here.

Spare_Wheel_Shim.jpg
 

Aussie Iron

Explorer
I have always wanted to test the viability of balance beads, as I definitely see the theoretical benefits of using them.
The main concern I have, especially with stainless beads, is that they will effectively sand blast the inside of my rims. If I still had steel rims this would be of less concern, but now I have alloys, which are obviously softer and more prone to damage.
Is anyone using balance beads in alloy rims?

Getting back to the original issue of the alloy rims being discolored by the steel brake drums...
One solution to this issue is to use a thin aluminium shim between the rim and the brake drum.

I'm seeing no marking on the inside of my aluminium rims as centrifugal force holds them out in the tyre. The only time that they may hit the rim is when we are stopping and then I believe that will still stay out there as the wheel is slowing and just grouping together. I'm seeing a lot more marking on the outside from little stone hitting the outer surface. The stainless beads don't break down to dust as glass and ceramic beads do from rubbing on each other.

Make sure that you don't use a too soft aluminium as it will "work" in between the rim and wheel face and loosen the wheel.

Dan.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Thanks for that info on your balance beads Dan.

Make sure that you don't use a too soft aluminium as it will "work" in between the rim and wheel face and loosen the wheel.

With a decent surface area and the wheels torqued to the correct tightness, the ali should not really squash. Also, I think that using relatively thin ali sheet is key here..
I also use wheel nut indicators, so if the nuts do start to get loose then it should be apparent.
 

westyss

Explorer
Those that are using beads, do you air down often? Does the bead get in the way of airing down?( clog the valve stem)
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Those that are using beads, do you air down often? Does the bead get in the way of airing down?( clog the valve stem)

Hi Yves, How are you mate?
.
My experience with beads and "airing down often" hasn't been pleasant.
.
Because of where I live, the most common off roading we do is on soft sand....this time of year Fraser and Cooloola are amazing and on my doorstep......so of course, airing down is just part of it. My experience admittedly was with earlier balance beads not the newer stainless type. Maybe if I hadn't experienced those, I might be happy to try the newer types again but the main issue I found was nothing to do with clogging valves as you might assume....and in fact clogged valves never occurred with me.
.
The issue we had was as the beads broke down and created some dust, they would absorb moisture and form big lumps and therefore they couldn't do their job of balancing. I would always use a portable compressor, the type without a tank or any form of water trap. As you can imagine, air straight out of a compressor pump creates quite a bit of condensation in your tyres. I guess if you only air down a little it might not be an issue but as we would air down a few times every day, we found the amount of condensation mixed with the older style beads was a real problem and we never tried them again.
.
Kind regards
John.
 
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