Problem with Fuso in China

[Andrew123]

Just for info. I (FG649 with 4D3 pre common rail engine) had some overheating problems in Turkey due to a combination of low grade fuel, higher speeds, steeper longer hills and higher air temperatures. Radiator cap replaced helped. Different engine, no misfire.

I'd suggest replace the thermostat. If nothing else the engine running cold can change the symptoms from other problems.

You are now at 1360m above sea level though far from the level where the electronics will complain (about 3,500 - 4,000m). But may be sufficient to effect a fuel system that was marginal but working at lower altitude.

Recollection from a long time ago is there's a mesh filter on the end of the suction pipe in the fuel tank. Unlikely a problem but.... The two pipes, (supply and return) and fuel gauge sender are removed by undoing the six or so screws around them on the tank (assuming standard tanks).

I suggest tighten the hose clips on the fuel supply pipe at the fuel tank. Screw clamps are better than the original spring clamps. A very small (pinhole) air leak can be enough to reduce fuel supply but not enough to collect air in the fuel filter. Though it tended to just slow my engine down until it stops rather than misfire.

With some dual tank instals with changeover there can be a small pressure drop across the junction which requires an extra lift pump to overcome.

At one time I put a temporary pipe direct from fuel tank to fuel filter which allowed me to isolate a fuel line problem. There's a wonderful auto parts place in Ulaan Bataar just where the main road west through the power stations leaves the main road north that has more sizes of fuel line than I've had hot dinners.

Big silly question. Does the engine behave the same way with both fuel tanks ?????????? Did the biodiesel get into both tanks? Were both tanks ever filled at the same fuel station (I avoid that where I can). Flushing one tank and refilling can provide a way of isolating fuel supply as a problem.

Valve clearances.

A bit early and I'm a bit reluctant to suggest a cylinder compression test.

I have 2 aftermarket fuel tanks. The mechanics don't think it is a fuel leak otherwise air would've been coming through the lines. I haven't had any problems with tank changeover until now. The engine does behave the same way with both tanks and biodiesel was in both.

A complete, (and very expensive) fuel system change is on the cards at the moment.

 

[gait]

not good,

just a thought ....

I would try to solve the voltage error with the CRS before replacing fuel system.

The fuel pressure may be correct (depends whether its controlled mechanically or electronically) but....

if the ECU thinks the fuel pressure is different to what it really is (sensor problem) then it will possibly be injecting a wrong amount of fuel.

If the fuel pressure is electronically controlled then it will also be trying to unnecessarliy adjust the pressure.

Easier said than done of course.

In principle, replacing mechanical parts may not solve an electronic control problem.

Another silly question - does the Mitsubishi diagnostics computer tell you what the common rail pressure is? Is it within spec? Is it stable at constant revs?

 

[Andrew123]

not good,

just a thought ....

I would try to solve the voltage error with the CRS before replacing fuel system.

The fuel pressure may be correct (depends whether its controlled mechanically or electronically) but....

if the ECU thinks the fuel pressure is different to what it really is (sensor problem) then it will possibly be injecting a wrong amount of fuel.

If the fuel pressure is electronically controlled then it will also be trying to unnecessarliy adjust the pressure.

Easier said than done of course.

In principle, replacing mechanical parts may not solve an electronic control problem.

Another silly question - does the Mitsubishi diagnostics computer tell you what the common rail pressure is? Is it within spec? Is it stable at constant revs?

Thanks Gait. I finally got the starter motor today. We installed it, the vehicle had been completely serviced, (new filters, oil, contacts cleaned, etc) over the past week while we were waiting for it. The engine worked well surprisingly. The orange check engine light was off, so no limit to 2000rpm. One thing that was of concern was when I accelerated, the engine wouldn't accelerate smoothly accompanied by blue smoke. This only happened around 2000rpm and I was wondering whether it was something because of travelling for the past 2000kms limited to 2000rpm and it was something in the system which may disappear after a good run. Time will tell.

There was no way to test the actual common rail pressure. All the faults had gone once the starter motor was put in. I am wondering whether because the starter was 24v, (my truck is 12v) and wasn't being started properly, it caused other problems. It is all a bit of a mystery.

I am off to Russia tomorrow. Thanks again for all your help.

 

[gait]

sounds good.

Say hello to the deer stones in Mongolia for me. Its easier to relax and sight see without vehicle problems.

Which way through Russia? Lake Baikal or The Altai? Either way enjoy.

The Mitsubishi computer thingo should have been able to read the pressure. I'd put my money on a bad connection to the sensor!

Don't forget to read the bit (in previous posts) about how to use the two wires / fuses to read and clear diagnostic codes.

 

[Andrew123]

sounds good.

Say hello to the deer stones in Mongolia for me. Its easier to relax and sight see without vehicle problems.

Which way through Russia? Lake Baikal or The Altai? Either way enjoy.

The Mitsubishi computer thingo should have been able to read the pressure. I'd put my money on a bad connection to the sensor!

Don't forget to read the bit (in previous posts) about how to use the two wires / fuses to read and clear diagnostic codes.

Thanks Gait. I just saw your messages, I haven't logged in for a while.
I am now in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. the route through Russia was Baikal, Novosibirsk, Barnaul, Astana, (Kazakhstan).
Still had problems with the truck. The rear stabiliser broke in 2 places, (I have aftermarket suspension). We managed to fix it here for around $80, including new rods and plate.
My biggest concern is the amount of black smoke out the exhaust. It is constant when the engine is up to temperature and I have a feeling it is not an easy problem to fix. It still smokes even when I replaced all the filters, etc. When the turbo finally kicks in or when I run it at higher revs, the smoke is minimised.
Also, The engine still overheats going up the hills.
It would be great if I could take out the engine and put a new one in without electronics. They cause far too many problems when in developing countries. The Fuso Canters in Mongolia have a basic engine and are extremely simple to work on. I was seriously considering putting one in when I was there.