Project Alpha Bound - 1985 4Runner Adventure Truck Build

[corax]

. . . . And finally, my throttle is sticking at 1500 rpm's when I come to a stop from speed. This is a recurring problem that I think is the TPS. Will adjust and/or replace later this week.

when the thing is acting up and idling high try pushing the throttle body closed manually (under the hood) to see if your idle goes back to normal. On the 22RE's, it's fairly common for the throttle body dashpot to start sticking. This can also sometimes cause a TPS code to pop up since it prevents the throttle from closing all the way (ECU sees the "throttle closed" terminals never make contact and assumes a TPS problem, hence the code). I've always just removed the dashpot completely (2 phillips screws) with no ill effects, some people say you can clean and lube it to make it work properly

LINK
Notes:
Dash Pot:
The GREEN CIRCLE shows the dash pot (DP) which is there to slow the closing of the throttle to prevent backfiring. It consists of the round air bellows, a spring loaded plunger, and the air vent line that attaches to the fitting at the base of the bellows. The vent line has a check valve in-line and an air filter to keep dirt out. The check valve lets air into the bellows then the throttle opens and extends the plunger. When the throttle closes, the stop screw contacts the plunger and pushes it in. The check valve closes to slow the air escaping the bellows and thus slow the closing of the throttle.
To troubleshoot the DP, make sure the air filter is clean and make sure the check valve is not clogged or stuck open. You should be able to blow air into the bottom easily (filling the bellows) but it should be hard to suck air out. Both the filter and valve can probably be cleaned with a mild solvent. Also, the plunger can stick. I find a shot of silicone spray applied to it periodically helps keep it moving freely. Lube it the push it in and out fully a few times to work the lubricant down into the plunger. And you can simpy back the adjuster screw all the way back to keep it from contacting the throttle linkage as a test. This way it is eliminated from affecting the throttle operation, in case you think it may be causing a problem.
To adjust the DP, I find setting the stop screw to depress the plunger about 1/2 of it's travel works well. If set too deep, you have more spring force to overcome and that can cause the throttle to not fully close. Too shallow and the DP can't really do it's job.

 

[ab1985]

Work is at a stand still as of today. My transmission gave up the ghost this morning on the way to work. I had it towed to my local shop, and I'm hoping they can get to it quickly so I can hit the road next week. This truck was bulletproof the 1st year I had it, but the last 6 months not so much. At least this happened now and not while driving across the midwest.:Mechanic:

 

[coryc85]

Good that it happened now, that would have ruined the trip real quick. Got any details on your trip to share? How many days do you think it will take you to get out to the San Juans? Google maps shows about 1300 miles from Louisville to the San Juan Forest. Do you plan to stop and camp somewhere near the interstate on the way out and back, or hotel it? I'd like to know the logistics of your trip, one of these days I want to get my truck out west. I live in wayy South Florida, so it takes me about 10 hours of driving just to get out of this state. Good luck, looking forward to the pics.

 

[ab1985]

I talked to the shop today. They won't be able to look at my truck until next week, but they have time set aside on Thursday should a rebuild be required. If we can get parts in time that would put the truck back with me next Friday. Tight timeline considering I still have work of my own to get done.

My playbook for this trip is intentionally thin and consists mostly of a list of places I want to see, a Well's guidebook, and a Benchmark Road and Recreation Atlas. Day 1 is/was Louisville to Salina, KS. I identified a non-KOA campground and a travel plaza there both off I-70. Given that the cost of the trip just potentially doubled, I will opt for stealth camping at the travel plaza. Day 2 is Salina to Lake City, CO. Days 3-7 I'd like to be as far away from civilization as possible running scenic trails and camping remotely. Day 8 is a sandbag for who knows what. Days 9 and 10 are the reverse of 1 and 2.

My fingers are crossed at this point. My daughter starts school the week after I planned to return so rescheduling isn't likely. I may have to use the sandbag on Day 1 to finish up work at home, but may still be able to make it.

 

[coryc85]

Wow, 600 miles from L-ville to Salina! Long day right there. I drove my 1983 Pickup east through Kansas to Kentucky about 7 years ago. Late at night, on a Saturday, could not find a gas station open for miles, almost ran out of gas. Did not enjoy Kansas too much. Anyway, I'll have to look into the Well's guidebook, and that atlas. Keeping my fingers crossed, I want to see this trip succeed and plan one of my own based off of it.

 

[ab1985]

I made the drive from SLC to Louisville in 2 days in this truck, and I figure at 12 hrs or less per day (which is about my max) I'm fine. I hear you on the lack of gas stations in the flyover states. The jerry can holder on my bumper is more for that purpose than it is for use on the trails.

 

[corax]

do you have a manual trans or automatic? If it's manual, just as an indication, I was able to get all the bearings replaced on mine just a few months ago for <$400 (trans already removed)

 

[ab1985]

I have a manual transmission, but I'm skeptical as to how it could have bombed so severely so quickly. Two nights ago while driving home I heard a noise that sounded like a tin can being crushed - then nothing. The next morning leaving my neighborhood I got a similar noise. I pulled over to check that nothing was loose as the noise was only happening while rolling. Nothing. So I pulled out, drove 2 blocks, and all hell broke loose. Metal grinding, loud screeching, and I couldn't get into 1st gear to save my life when I pulled over into a park. The t-case I swapped in a few weeks back could be the issue? Not sure, yet. But whatever broke sounds like it broke bad. I had it towed to my local offroad shop (awesome guys btw). My guess is a t-case rebuild is 800-ish and the tranny is around 1200. I'm not an expert with any of this stuff. I could pull the tranny no problem, but the truck is inoperable at their shop so I'm going to let them do their thing next week and hope for the best.

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

You could probably source a used transmission to replace it...

 

[ab1985]

Yeah, if I had time time there would definitely be more options. For a quick turn around my options are limited. I think I'll have to wait and see. I'm going to finish up the bumper today.

 

[ab1985]

Today I got started late (after dinner) but did end up getting a few things done. I've been taking the path of least resistance wherever possible to save time. I read online that the Blitz 5 gallon gas can carrier would hold a Scepter MFC so I ordered one. It definitely does not fit. It's close, but the corners of the MFC are not rounded enough to fit. Since I didn't figure this out until the Blitz carrier arrived, I decided to modify it to hold the Scepter gas can.

I also added gussets to the bumper mounts and primed and painted everything black. Tomorrow I'll figure out the latch and quarter panel protection. I found a 5 lb propane tank mount locally at a fire safety store. I'll pick that up Monday and should have this thing done (still need to decide on fold down table material).

 

[ab1985]

And before anyone says it, yes, I need to build a proper welding table and workbench.

 

[washington taco]

At least you can weld!

 

[ab1985]

I made a stopper for the swing arm today and went to mount the De-sta-co latch and realized I need a different p/n. I ordered one on amazon and got the expedited shipping so it should be here by Tuesday.

At this point I'm going to regroup and make version 3 of my To-Do List outlining what needs to get done in order to hit the road next weekend. The shower may have to wait. At a minimum I need to:

1) Finish the bumper so I have a place to mount the spare
2) Get my propane tank filled
3) Hook up CB
4) Anchor sleep platform to the bed
5) Change fluids (engine and diffs), plugs, and wires
6) Finish wiring 12V plug for the fridge and accessories in the rear
7) Install passenger side marker light

I think that's all doable assuming I get the transmission issue resolved and can get the truck back home by Friday. I'd like to get a few other things done, too, but these are wants at this point:

1) Onboard water installed
- Install tank fittings
- Mount tank under truck
- Mount Pump and heat exhanger
- Wire pump
- Run plumbing
- Install faucet
2) Curtains
- Probably just something temporary using velcro or bungee cords for now

 

[ab1985]

Got some info from the shop (should have a full report and estimate tomorrow morning). I may be to blame for this one. When I replaced the transfer case a few weeks back I used RTV between the transmission and transfer case instead of a paper gasket. I'll have to read online more tonight when I have time, but sounds like this may have been a bone headed mistake that costs me some major $$$. When they drained the transmission pieces of bearing cases fell out and there's a chance the t-case could be f'd, too (couldn't tell by the tech's notes and he was already gone). FML